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Brugge Trip Report
We just got back from a week in Brugge - left USA on 12/25 and flew back on 1/2. Here were the highlights of our trip:
LODGING We always do self catering when travelling to Europe. We stayed in the top floor studio apartment at Ridderspoor (Ridderstraat 18). The apartment was the best we've rented so far - extremely cozy, gorgeous view of the Belfry tower (esp at night), even decorated with Christmas lights and greenery, and very centrally located (5 mins to the Burg). The price was 55 euros a night - was worth double the price. http://users.skynet.be/brugge-gheeraert/ CHOCOLATE We like Leonidas for mass produced chocolate, but our favorite chocolate of the trip was at Dumon...the caramels were the best I've ever had. BEER We are beer fanatics and plan most of our trips around beer. We loved 't Brugs Beertje and de Garre of course, but also really like the Erasmus Cafe located on Steenstraat in a hotel. The interior is much more modern than Beertje or de Garre, but it is also very cozy and with a lovely view of the canal in the back. The manager of Erasmus was extremely friendly, and we visited numerous times - great selection of Christmas beers on tap! FOOD We are not extravagant diners - we enjoyed the pitalier near the Markt, Taverne Curiosa, Himalayan Indian Restaurant, and The Daily Bread (Het Dagelijks Brood) for breakfast/lunch (and very near our holiday flat). Best frites are at Peter Frituur in the Markt underneath the Belfry. For extravagant dining, our favorite by far is Den Dyver (friendly to vegetarians). TRIP HIGHLIGHT New Years Eve at Den Dyver!!!! We had a seven course meal with beer pairing, and the event went on for six hours. The inside of Den Dyver was unbelievably beautiful (decorated for Christmas) and the service is the best I've had anywhere. I am the only vegetarian in a meat-eating family, and the staff was gracious enough to prepare a 7 course vegetarian meal for my dinner - it was phenomenal. We spent the week walking, walking, and walking. We went to only one museum, climbed the Belfry once, and spent the rest of our time wandering and enjoying the beautiful buildings and friendly people! We will be back. |
Have to agree with the Dumon chocolate mention. My very first Belgian chocolate was a caramel-filled chocolate from Dumon, eaten on a bench in the main square. A wonderful food memory...
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Your trip sounds wonderful. We're thinking of going to Brugge in June when we go to France. How long would you suggest staying? A couple of days? Do you think there will be a lot of tourists at the end of June? Does the place where you stayed rent by the day or only by the week? Thanks!
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Hi RebeccaM -
Ridderstraat 18 rents by a 3 night minimum, but the nightly rate will be 15 euro more than the 7 night stay. I think the rates have also gone up slightly for 2004 - the studio rate for 2 people is currently listed at 70 euro (still a great deal, in my opinion). The studio on the top floor is perfect for 2 - just beautiful and cosy...complete with hair dryer, washer (dryer is in the cellar), fully stocked mini kitchen, etc. Wonderful! We have also stayed at Drie Koningen which is about 1 block away from Ridderstraat 18. Our studio at Ridderstraat was our favorite, but Drie Koningen is also extremely nice. They also have a 3 night minimum. The website for them is www.kanthuisje.com/d3kon/ I have been to Brugge twice, and each time I stayed one week. I have seen people recommend anywhere from 6 hours to a full week for Brugge. I would suggest that 2-3 days for your first trip would be enough...Brugge is a smallish city and very walkable, but it's perfect for taking your time and enjoying your surroundings. Unfortunately, I suspect that June will probably be very busy - Brugge was very busy over the holiday week, and it was much more populated than the week we spent in mid-March 2 weeks ago. However, June in Europe is very busy period, no matter where you go! I'm sure you'll still have a wonderful trip. :) |
One more side note... The folks at Ridderspoor also run a B&B across the street at Ridderstraat 9. The rates for 2 people is 55 euro a night, breakfast included. They only require a 2 night minimum at the B&B.
You can find the apartment rentals on the link above and click "holiday flats." The B&B site is located from the same main page and is on the right ("Bed and Breakfast"). |
Ugh New Year's Eve in Bruges, I am so jealous. What a great idea - I was considering Amsterdam but it became too expensive. Thank you for a great report and a wonderful suggestion for next year.
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Thank you so much for this trip report, beanweb24! We will be in Brugge for 2 nights in mid March and we have booked a room for 3 at the Gheeraert's Bed and Breakfast. I am glad to hear that they are so well located and clean.
Thank you also for the restaurant and pub recommendations! We also like to try different beers! In fact, that is how my husband decided he wanted to visit Belgium. He said it sounds like a great place since they specialize in beer and chocolate. His two favorite things! When you were in Brugge in March, were you able to take a boat ride, or is it too cold? We will be there on a Friday and Saturday. Will the crowds likely to be very heavy on these days in mid March? Thanks again for your report! Laurie |
Hi Laurie -
We also went in mid-March in 2002, and while the "crowds" were a little heavier on the weekends, it was nothing like what we saw this last time over the holidays. I think you'll enjoy it very much! Mid-March is one of my fave times to travel to Europe - definitely off-season for most places. The boats are indeed running in March - at least they were when we went (and they were not running over the holidays this time). I highly recommend taking a canal trip! Ahhh...Belgian beer and chocolate - your husband has great taste. :) Definitely check out the Dumon chocolatier (caramels are a MUST) located in Eiermarkt 6 (about a block away from the main Markt). Also, if you like curry and you like frites, try the yellow curry sauce for the frites...it's really, really tasty (and a fun change from mayo). My favorite Belgian beer is Duchesse de Bourgogne. It's a flemish red ale that is unlike any other beer I've ever had - and I've only seen it one time here in the states (oddly in Bethlehem PA). Please tell your husband to have one in my honor. :) I am sure you will love the B&B - their apartments were absolutely wonderful...and Paul and Roos are extremely helpful and friendly. Enjoy your trip! |
Hi Beanweb, Thank you so much for the suggestions and the beer and chocolate recommendations. We will tip our glass to you in Bruge! Thanks again! Laurie
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Laurie,
We also will be in Brugge in mid-March (3/11 through 3/15). We rented a flat on Klaverstraat, near Ezelport on the north side of town. The owners are a nice British family. We are very excited about our first Belgian trip, which we are combining with a week in London. Any advice on shopping for daily essentials like groceries and the like? Will you be doing any side trips while in Brugge? We are thinking perhaps Ghent, the seaside or Antwerp. Take care, Dan |
Hi Dan,
You will be in Bruge a little before us. This is our first visit to Bruge so I really don't know much about the city, only what I have learned form this site and my Rick Steve's guidebook. In Rick Steve's guidebook, it says there is a Delhaize supermarket open Mon. through Sat., 9:00-18:00. It is 3 blocks off the market square on Geldmundtstraat. Also a small Delhaize grocery on Market Square, oppoosite the bell tower. It is open on Sundays from 14:00-18:00. We will probably not take side trips from Bruge, since we will only be there for 2 days. We will be moving on to Brussels after Bruge and may do some sidetrips from Brussels. Have a great time. Save some beer and chocolate for us! Laurie |
I enjoyed reading this very much!
I spent only 3 days in Brugge and loved this city! I hope to return in warmer weather. but the thought of being there over the Holiday season sounds even more fun. The weather was certainly not at it's best, being late October, and it was mostly cool and rainy. but the one sunny day was spectacualar . Esp. the foliage reflecting in the canals. The crowds were bumper to bumper on the main shopping streets on the weekend, but if you walk off the main paths, I walked streets with barely anyone on them. We had dinner in two places that were enjoyed very much, great food. 1-Tom's Diner -West Gistelhof 23 had great food and is definitely not "diner-like" in the American sense. I had Ostrich for the first time . 2-Marike Van Brugghe -Mariastraat17 is a bit more "elegant" and I had a Dover sole there that melted in my mouth. Both of these can be seen on a sitewhich is either www.users.pandora.be or www. pandora.be We walked by a sweet little B&B that was right in the Minnewater Park. It looked lovely and quiet, The Egmond (www.egmond.be) My regrets, trip not long enough Too cold to do a canal ride and did not try enough of the beers! For everyone going, have a blast!! I bet you will fall in love with this little city. |
Beanweb24, thanks a lot for this report. I will be staying in Brugge at the Ridderspoor B&B end of March and can't wait to try out the Dumon chocolates and all the restaurants you have suggested and just relax for a few days.
Cheers |
TweetexT - enjoy your wonderful trip! I highly recommend you purchase a copy of the Cadogan Guide to Bruges (2002) - it was our favorite guide and much more comprehensive to the general Belgium guides we got from Fodords, Lonely Planet, and Rough Guide. You can purchase a copy at Barnes and Noble (in person or online).
Have a fabulous trip!!! |
Thanks, Beanweb! My husband and I -- both beer-loving vegetarians -- are going to Belgium in April and plan to use your tips.
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SZ -
Vegetarian dining in Brugge is somewhat challenging, but you'll be okay. DEFINITELY do Den Dyver. For their typical dinners, they offer a 3 course tasting menu that is paired with beer courses. All of their tasting menu options are meat. However, on their "a la carte" menu, they have at least one vegetarian appetizer and entree. I ordered from the a la carte menu and then requested the beer pairing with my meal - the waiter was kind enough to offer me a third course of dessert so that I had my own little version of their tasting gourment menu. Wonderful, wonderful service. The pita place is great for take away, light lunch (though you can eat inside, too). I can't remember the name, but if you're facing the Belfry, there is a very small street to the right. Take that street, and it's down about a block and a half on your right (tiny little window to order from the street or you can go inside). They have wonderful falafel, but they were out the last time I went. Instead, I had a vegetarian pita made primarily with feta cheese, and it was (somewhat suprisingly) incredibly delicious! I'm making myself hungry... Have a wonderful trip! |
SZ -
I can't believe I forgot to mention another wonderful vegetarian restaurant called Lotus (Wapenmakersstraat 5). Excellent menu - you'll love it. For other veggie restaurants in Brugge, go to www.resto.be and do a vegetarian search - it comes up with 5 veggie restaurants (and I believe they have limited their search to either all or primarily all vegetarian cuisine that is served). |
We'll be in Brugge in April and you all have made my mouth begin to water and my imagination soar!
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Hey Hillview -
Sounds like you have the same itinerary as we do... Amsterdam and Brugge in April! Got a suggestion for you. Take a bike tour of the tulip fields with a small outfit called Let's Go Tours. When we were in A'dam 5 years ago in early May, we were too late for the tulips, but we did another bike tour (called "Castles and Windmills") and it was excellent! Website: http://www.letsgo-amsterdam.com/UK/tulipUK/tulipUK.htm |
Hi beanweb24,
I really enjoyed this report. I have always wanted to go to Brugge and hope to this summer as a quick stop before going to Berlin. However, after reading your report I wonder if I should wait and go when I can spend more time than one day there. Brugge is definitely on my list of places to go. |
Minipam - If you've already figured for it in your itinerary, then go!!! Better to go and wish you had more time there (and maybe plan for another trip to spend more time) then to not go at all, think you'll go in the future, and never get around to it.
I think you'll hear many differing reports on what the appropriate length of time is to give to Brugge...many people consider it a day trip only, and that works for them. We just prefer to spend more time in one place, perhaps rent an apartment, and explore every nook and cranny we possibly can. Definitely do the day trip - and survey whether or not you would like to return. I think you'll know right away whether or not it's worth a second, longer visit. Have a fabulous trip! |
I am becomming more and more intrigued with visiting Brugge. My wife and I are going to Europe for the first time March 15-22nd, and are currently staying in Amsterdam the full visit. Would like to take a day or two to visit another part of Europe, and Paris and Brugge have been the two most suggested destinations. I'm hearing though that Paris is very spread out, and a day or two would be much more chaotic there; while Brugge is more compact and relaxed - opinions?
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We're doing Amsterdam/Brugge. Four nights in A'dam; then morning train to Brugge; then evening train back to A'dam the following day; then fly home the next morning.
Paris is actually just as close, timewise (faster train, with no connection), but as most people here would tell you, it's better to save it for a longer stay. Brugge seems to be just about right for a 2-day/1-night stay. |
to all people thinking about going to Brugge. i was there last month for the first time. It is ok for a about 2 days. The beer is excellent however nightlife isn't very good. only a few busy bars in the evening. To be honest there is nothing to do in Brugge except eat and drink and you cant do that 24/7.
especially when your paying between 4 and 7 euro for a large beer in a bar.where you can buy the same ones in a supermarket for 0.60-1 euro, there are alot of places to eat at relatively good prices. In general the type of people who go to brugge are probably looking for a romantic stay or a little bit of culture. It's not that romantic and there is really no significant history or culture. You would be alot better going to Antwerp of Ghent, you'll get a better selction of chocolate and beers there if thats what your looking for and they are not as big and busy like brussels. |
I'm sure the place is wonderful but it doesn't sound worth a week to me..perhaps that's a flaw in the trip report or just my own interests. Beer and chocolate for New Year's Eve.????.get real!
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Even though I have not been to Brugge and am going in Sept. for 2 days, I have been to Paris and would pick Paris over Brugge. Of course, a longer stay would be better but still a weekend or 2 days in Paris can still be a great experience. Just stay in a central location. The food, ambiance, and just being there is great.
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In response to: "It's not that romantic and there is really no significant history or culture."
Whether or not something is romantic is personal judgement - I will respectfully disagree but appreciate your personal opinion. However - I would like to point out some historical and cultural significance. Brugge was honored as the Cultural Capital of Europe in 2002! You can view Michelangelo's Madonna inside the Church of Our Lady - it's the only Michelangelo that can be seen in the low countries. Historically, Brugge was a major international trading center in the 13th century, and international finance center in the 14th century. Brugge has had 2000 (!) years of history - to say that is "not significant" is a shame. |
beanweb24 thanks for your trip report and interaction on this thread. We're going to Brugge in Sept. for 2 nights and are really excited. If you are still reading this thread would be interested in your thoughts....we were thinking about riding bikes for a day in and around Brugge. Is that a good way to see and experience the town?
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Hi Beechtree -
I've actually never rented bikes in Brugge! I do think that it would be a great way to see the city, though. We have walked *really* long distances, and I think the exploration would have been a little easier had we ridden bikes. Brugge is very flat, and there are tons of wonderful paths that wander along the canals - I think you would have a great time riding bikes! |
beanweb24
Thanks for the info and reply. I can't wait for our trip. Bob |
I'm planning on being in Brugge during New Year's and I'm very interested in hearing about your dinner at Den Dyver. How did you arrange it? Did it need to be reserved much in advance? Any other options for New Years?
Fabulous trip report too, thank you! |
Dumon is excellent and one of a few hand-made chocolate shops that I visit when I am in Bruges. I also go to The Chocolate Line in Simon Stevinplein which is very famous for it's unique window displays and expensive gift chocolates - but I also go to The Old Chocolate House which is nearby on Mariastraat (#1) and here I find excellent fresh belgian chocolates and very friendly service from Francoise and her daughter Barbe. They also ship chocs for my daughter when she needs lifting up!! http://www.oldchocolatehouse.com
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