BRIEF trip report - Rome, Florence & Venice
 

I am just back from 2 weeks in Italy; Rome, Florence & Venice and because everyone on this website was SO helpful - I thought I'd share some highlights/tips!

Some things that worked for us:
Rome -
Vatican/Basilica/Sistine Chapel
Go early - we arrived at the Vatican Museums at 7 am and waited on line. Worth the wait otherwise you will wait on line ALL DAY! Got into Sistine Chapel about 15 min. after it opened then had the rest of the day to walk, walk, and walk!
Basilica - opens early - go early for an amazing experience that you will share with only a few people instead of hordes and hordes! Walk up to the dome- then continue walking ALL the way to the top - be cautious if you are claustrophobic - could be a bit hard.
Pantheon - went right after it rained - AMAZING pictures!
My Aunt had suggested the following walk for the end of day (we did it the day we arrived - great way to ease yourself into time change and sightseeing
Start late afternoon so you end up at the Campidoglio overlooking the Forum & Coliseum as the sun is going down.
Circo Massimo - Bocca della Verita - Temple of Vesta - up the hills around the Palatine to the top of the Campidoglio - overlook the Forum towards the Coliseum - quite a view during sunset.

HIGHLY recommended restaurants:
Sora Lella (dinner) - Trastevere - recommended by chef Mario Batali. Amazing
Il Matriciano (lunch) - Vatican City - locals - delicious!
Antica Pesa (dinner) - Trastevere.

Gelato: Ciampini (near Piazza San Lorenzo)

Lodging: Sleepinitaly.com.
B&B Relais Banchi Vecchi, Via Del Pavone, near Campo de fiori. Adorable - quaint - close to Vatican. Great for the price (about 150 E) - Definitely recommended.

Florence -
Accademia - had reservations - try your best to make them as the line is very long if you do not have. Even with reservations we had to wait on line and were not let in at our assigned time.
Uffizi - tried to make reservations but were told they were "booked" so went early and stood on line until it opened. We were there by 7:15 am and walked in 5 minutes after it opened (I think 8:45 am). DO NOT STRESS if you don't have reservation - but go at least one hour before it opens and stand in line.
Piazzalle Michaelangelo - Be there for sunset - actually - a bit before sunset so you can take pictures.
Giotto's Tower - walk to the top! About 400 steps - well worth it for an AMAZING view.

Restaurants: Trattoria 4 Leoni - Oltrarno. Best meal we had in Italy. 'nuff said. Recommended by Gourmet magazine.
Gelato: Bar Vivoli.

Lodging: B&B Novecento - booked through guestinitaly.com. HIGHLY recommended for its location, host & cost. There is a tiny terrace that overlooks the Duomo and Franco (the owner) will bring you wine. Nice way to end the day. The only issue is that is on the 3rd floor of a walk-up.
To do: I consider myself to be a bit addicted to food/cooking, etc. so I did not want to miss Mercato Centrale - a cool experience.

Venice:
Jewish Ghetto
Burano
Saint Mark's Basilica (Ca D'Oro) - pay to see it.
Palazzo Ducale
Peggy Guggenheim Museum
Ca'Rezzonico
Restaurants:
On Burano (lunch) - I Gatto Nero - wonderful
Aqua Pazza (dinner) - local place -

Lodging: My Aunt's palazzo on the Grand Canal!

As you can tell - our days were planned not only by what we were seeing but by where we were eating lunch/dinner and having our daily gelato fix.

I hope some of the highlights/tips help those about to embark on a trip! I am quite sad to be home but can't wait to start planning my next trip!

dloech, thanks for the travel tips for Rome, coincidently I was just going through some threads I had saved and found the restaurant Antica Pesa, did you make reservations for dinner at the two you highly recommend in Rome? What in particular made them memorable for you?

We will be in Rome for our first time in early November, with less daylight and shorter museum hours most of our evening will be spent at dinner so I am pleased to have personal recommendations. Thanks, Deborah

Glad you enjoyed your trip.
If you don't have a reservation, as an alternative strategy to getting into a line at 7:15 am and waiting there 1-1.5 hours or more for the museum to open, I'd suggest going there two hours before closing. The line won't be any worse, and it is likely to be much better.

You just casually mentioned that you stayed at "your Aunt's palazzo on the Grand Canal"......Please, please give us details!!
Sounds very intriguing..........
((*))

Deborah - We sat outside at Antica Pesa and did NOT have reservations. Unlike NYC many restaurants were closed on Monday or Tuesday evening so if there is somewhere you are interested in going - check the webist or call ahead! We had reservations at Sora Lella in Rome and Trattoria 4 Leoni in Florence. We walked into Il Matriciano - but we were "early" and within 1/2 hr of our arrival the place was packed! (12:30 - 1 pm arrival). The places were memorable because the food was amazing and the experience was, to me, perfect. Most of the places were "local" - the menus were only in Italian and almost everyone WAS Italian. We had a bit of trouble getting through some of them but that made it kind of fun - I knew certain things that I don't like (liver, sweetbreads, etc.) and knew the translations for them.

In terms of going to the museum at the end of the day - it will probably be a good idea too - but if you have to wait longer than expected - you;ll get kicked out of the museum when it is closing! I'd rather be up early - bring a magazine - get an espresso - and wait! IMHO.

My Aunt's palazzo. . . Oh what a place! She is right on the Grand Canal - directly across from Ca'Rezzonico - right near the San Samuele vaporetto stop. She has been in Venice for close to 50 years - her palazzo is everything you could imagine in a fairy tale! She has parties every year during the Regatta ! My husband's favorite spot was on her tiny terrace with his cigar - reading.. We will be back soon!

Your Aunt's palazzo?!! I am green with envy. How wonderful for you. Is she looking to adopt any grown ups? We are well behaved.
((c))

And I was going to ask if your Aunt was considering renting rooms to those of us that are only Italian "at heart"...

Thank you for your trip report.