Bratislava or Vienna?
 

Hi everyone,

I've booked flights for a weekend away early next month, leaving London very early on Sat morning and arriving back late on Sunday night. I chose Bratislava because the flight times were handy and give us almost the whole weekend away, but having looked through the forum, it seems that most people find it very underwhelming and there may not be enough to do to fill 2 whole days.

The other option is to go to straight to Vienna instead and stay there. I've never been to either city before. What's putting me off Vienna a bit is the idea that it may not be enough time to fully enjoy it and that we're on quite a budget (Bratislava is meant to be quite cheap) but we may not ever make it back to Vienna, as we're hoping to do a couple of big long-haul trips this year, so perhaps it'd be a great opportunity to go.

What would you do?

Hi clementine,

We spent half a day and a night in Bratislava and liked it a lot, and would liked to have spent longer, but we were due to travel onto Vienna, which we did by taking the hydrofoil up the Danube, which takes just over an hour.

However it appears that the hydrofoil doesn't run in the winter so you'd have to use the train or the bus.

I still think it would be worth doing though, and would enable you to have a look at Vienna whilst enjoying the cheaper delights of Bratislava. However you would have to factor in the cost of the train/bus tickets to see if it's actually cheaper.

There were a lot of nice looking eating-places in Bratislava, including what seemed to us to be a lot of sushi restaurants.

Thanks for the info! Just to clarify - we're flying into Bratislava airport, so can either get a train/bus to Vienna or just head into Bratislava itself. It seems that most people who use the London-Bratislava Ryanair route do so to visit Vienna.

Hotels seem much cheaper in Bratislava, but I think a 'day trip' to Vienna would be too much, as we effectively don't have any full days, seeing as we're arriving Sat and leaving Sun, so I think we'd have to choose one or the other.

Your trip is VERY short and is a budget trip. Stick with Bratislava. Vienna will wait for when you have more time and money.

Clementine, I live in Vienna and take day trips to Bratislava whenever there is something of interest going on across the Danube. With your limited travel, I would spend the first day in Vienna and the second in Bratislava (spend the night in Bratislava--it will be less expensive).

For your Vienna day, I might take a Vienna city walking tour in the morning, have an inexpensive lunch at Tresniewski's, a Vienna institution, then spend the afternoon at Schloss Schönbrunn, the summer palace of the Hapsburgs. Enjoy a melange and Esterhazy Torte at the palace cafe, and return to Bratislava for dinner in the old town; we've popped into several restaurants and have never had "bad" Slovak cuisine. Save Vienna's Schnitzel and Sacher Torte, and the rest of the Imperial history, for another time.

For your Bratislava day, head first to the castle. In the afternoon, enjoy the old town. Some of the little side streets are quite picturesque, and you may find quite a few stores open (all stores are closed in Vienna on Sundays). Take in a museum or two of interest, plus the historical sights, and call it a great weekend.

In terms of transportation costs, Vienna's OBB (state railway) offers €15 round trip tickets (which you can purchase in Bratislava at the train station), and the travel time is a little over an hour. The OBB roundtrip ticket allows you to catch any of the hourly trains back to Bratislava. Keep in mind that the Bratislava train station is a brisk 20 minute walk to the Stare Mesto (Old Town) if that is where you will be staying. There is a bus (the 13X?) that runs between the station and the old town, as well.

I've had a quick look and was surprised to find that hotel prices are similar, so I don't really need to factor that in anymore.

What are eating/drinking prices like in Vienna? We don't want anything fancy, just something 'local' and unpretentious, but if we do go to Vienna, we don't mind splashing out a little bit on some nice cake and coffee! I've heard that smoking is allowed almost everywhere in Vienna, is that true? Is it also the case in Bratislava?

It seems that most people who use the London-Bratislava Ryanair route do so to visit Vienna.>>

that's why we ended up spending the night in Bratislava. We stayed here:

http://www.hotelmarrols.sk/

i know that it might be a bit outside your budget but if you can stretch to it, do it - it is one of the best places we've ever stayed! no wonder it's no 1 on TA.

We lived in Washington, DC before moving to Vienna, and find Vienna expensive in general, but particularly for dining out. An ordinary plate of Schnitzel can cost between €10 and €20, depending on where you enjoy it. For example, our family of four had lunch at the Albertinakeller adjacent to the Opera last month; three schnitzels, a backhendl (fried chicken) and drinks (one wine, two beers, one soda) tallied nearly €75.

If you're okay with street food, the many wurstelstands offer great eats at budget prices. With it being winter, though, you'd probably prefer a cozy, sit-down place for lunch. Coffee and torte can be costly, as well, especially in the InnerStadt (tourist area). On a recent Christmasmarkt outing last month the four of us paused at Cafe Landtmann for two coffees and four cakes, and the tab was €50. In contrast, in our neighborhood outside the InnerStadt, the same would only run about €15.

Smoking is rather prevalent in Vienna in restaurants, especially in older, established places. Quite often, as well, one has to pass through the smoking section in order to reach the "non-smoking" areas.

Clementine -the Marols is showing 2 nights early in Feb for €180. I'd be surprised if you found anywhere of anything like similar quality for that price in Vienna, and probably the food will be cheaper too, to judge by what Fourfortravel has been telling us.

OTOH Vienna is a wonderful city with loads to see, albeit at a price.

if you decide on Vienna, a good deal is the Sissi card, which gives entry to the Hapsburg palace and the Schoenbrunn, and has the advantage, if you buy it at the Hapsburg, of allowing you to bypass what can be very long queues at the Schoenbrunn.

The Marol's looks lovely - it is outside our budget (plenty of nice hotels much cheaper in both Bratislava and Vienna) but we could probably stretch to it if it's really lovely and we do decide to stay in Bratislava.

The smoking in Vienna is a bit offputting - it is easy to see if a place is smoking or not before you go in? Are there signs on the door or anything? I was looking at hotels near the Schoenbrunn - is that a nice area? Would cafes/restaurants/bars be cheaper than in central Vienna?

Clementine, Schönbrunn to the InnerStadt (Stephansdom, for example) is about 25 minutes on public. Coming from Bratislava you would have a 15 minute connection at Hauptbahnhof (in Vienna) to Schönbrunn station, plus additional walking time depending on where your hotel is located. The area is pleasant and safe. Restaurants, etc. near the palace will likely be as expensive as those in the InnerStadt (though, the Tyrolean restaurant in the Schönbrunn park is pocketbook-friendly.)

So…if your flight from London arrives before 09:00, you can catch a train and be in Vienna by late morning. That gives you a good 7-8 hours of sightseeing in Vienna on Saturday. I would vote for spending the night in Bratislava; you'll be able to store your luggage easily on both your arrival and departure.

Most restaurants in Vienna's InnerStadt indicate whether they have a "Nicht Rauchen" section. Note that most cafes only offer coffee and sweets, some with an occasional sandwich.

Thanks for the info. I think the flight arrives at 9.30ish, provided there are no delays, of course. Does anyone know if there is a direct bus from Bratislava airport to Vienna? Getting conflicting info from Google.

clementine - I defer to 44travel of course, but i think that you would be better off staying in the centre of Vienna, especially as you have such a short time there. from memory it's at least 30 mins on the U-Bahn from the Schoenbrunn area to the centre, and if you like to go back to your accommodation in the evening before going out to eat, that's 2 hours out of your day.

I'm about as anti-smoking as you can be, but I don't recall the smoking in Vienna being that much of a problem.

you could look at restaurants on TA to see which ones are in your price range.

As for the Marols, at the time I think we rated it as one of the best hotels we'd stayed at, and I'd guess that I'm a good bit older than you. Also, it includes a very good breakfast which means that you can save money on lunch. For the quality of accommodation and service it's positively cheap, but of course, it's not in Vienna! if it were, IMO it would be at least twice as much.

There is bus service from the Bratislava airport to Vienna, though I am unfamiliar with it. http://www.slovaklines.sk/coach-line...va-vienna.html From the Bratislava airport you would want to go to Vienna Sudtirolerplatz. That is our new main train station with multiple connections to points in the InnerStadt.

I agree with annhig; for your short visit, a more central location would be better. Or, stay in Bratislava.

44travel - we used that bus to get back from Vienna to Bratislava for our flight home as we had arranged to drop our hire car off at Vienna airport.

When we got to the bus stop [which is right in front of Vienna airport entrance] they were saying that we might not get on it as there were lots of seats already booked but in fact there was plenty of space. I can't remember how long it took [It goes round the houses a bit], but we mainly got it as it went "door to door" as it were. I think that if you were just wanting to go to Vienna for a day trip, the train would be a lot better as it goes to and from the centre of each city.

OTOH were the OP to decide to stay in Vienna for the whole trip, then the Ryanair bus would probably be a better bet as it goes straight from the airport to the centre of Vienna and back again.

I'm thinking of this as a possible itinerary. Not sure about timings (how often the bus from the airport to the city goes, how long it takes etc):

SATURDAY
09.30 Arrive Bratislava
Get bus into centre of Bratislava
Buy a train ticket and maybe have breakfast
Arrive in Vienna sometime around midday
Have a walk around/have lunch depending on what time it is
Check into hotel (probably city centre)
Sightseeing all afternoon - perhaps Schoenbrunn?
Dinner and drinks (any recommendations more than welcome!)


SUNDAY

Nice breakfast (perhaps coffee and fancy cake?)or brunch
Sightseeing around centre
Train back to Bratislava mid-late afternoon
Early dinner in Bratislava
Head to the airport around 8pm

Would this work or is it trying to do too much?

If we end up sticking to Bratislava, we were thinking

SATURDAY

09.30 Arrive in Bratislava
Bus to centre
Have coffee/ breakfast
Walk around old town
Lunch around old town
Check into hotel
Have a nap (we'll be tired as we'll be up around 3.30 am)
More sightseeing
Dinner and drinks
Possible opera/show?

SUNDAY

Big breakfast at hotel
Relaxing/walking around
Castle
Early dinner somewhere nice
Head back to airport around 8pm

I imagine sticking to Bratislava may be less interesting sights-wise, but cheaper and more relaxing.

Clementine, I personally like your first itinerary. While it's true that you will not even scratch the surface of what Vienna offers, you may find Bratislava a little too relaxing for two days worth of strolling. Plus, if the weather is inclement, Vienna offers far more warm and cozy places to duck into.

From the Bratislava airport, Bus 61 runs to the train station approximately every 20 minutes, and the train from Bratislava to Vienna takes a little more than an hour, so you're looking at a couple of hours getting from Bratislava to Vienna.

If you linger in Bratislava for breakfast and then head to Vienna, keep in mind that places like Schönbrunn and Hofburg close on Saturday afternoon around 17:30, with many stores closing shortly thereafter. I would maximize Saturday in Vienna, and relax and stroll in Bratislava on Sunday.

Clementine - I would go with no 1 too. I think that I would buy some breakfast to eat on the train, and make sure that my hotel in Vienna knew that I would be arriving early, if only to drop my bags.

Have a good trip!

Thanks for the info. I've discussed it with my partner and he reckons trying to do both cities in 2 days as in itinerary 1 would be too stressful, tiring and expensive, so it might be better to stick to Bratislava this time and 'do' Vienna in April, if we can. It's true that we'll be very tired on the Saturday, so probably wouldn't appreciate Vienna as much as we should, whereas in Bratislava we could have a nice afternoon nap without feeling like we should be doing other things.

I've booked the Marrol's hotel, figuring that if we find Bratislava disappointing, we can just spent more time relaxing there! Has anyone tried the Messina restaurant there? Any other recommendations for nice restaurants/cafes around the old town?

Thanks for your help!

go for it, Clementine! you certainly won't be disappointed with the Marrol's.

We didn't eat there apart from breakfast, so i can't help you about the dinners - we had a pizza for our supper in Brastislava at one of the many restaurants in the centre. but there were lots of nice looking places - have you tried TA?

There is a section on the hotel website with recommended things to do in Bratislava - I would start there.

Agreed! Have a great time, and do report back on your weekend. We've not spent more than 8 hours or so in Bratislava in a single visit, so it would be nice to know what you found interesting for a weekend trip.

As for restaurants, the only one we've eaten at for which I could find a card was Slovak Pub, which means we all enjoyed our meal. :)

Hi Clementine... I used to post here, but I stopped some time ago. Once in a rare while I peek in to see if someone has asked a question about a place I know. I lived in Bratislava for 18 months before moving to Budapest a year ago.

Budapest gets pretty good coverage. Bratislava not so much.

A few days ago, I saw your question. I was stunned that so many people would recommend you go to Vienna to round out a ONE NIGHT TRIP. "Oh Sweet Lord".

I could stay anywhere for one night and find something to do (OK, and I'll own this, I don't much care for Vienna. I've tried).

The Marrols is a good choice. A year or so ago it was voted the highest rated hotel in the world by Expedia. It is nice (do not get yourself too worked up, it really isn't that nice). But the service is stellar. While you check in, they bring drinks and chocolate - so really, what's not to like.

The street and immediate neighborhood is a bit charmless, but you are just around the corner from the old town core.

See if there is a symphony in the Reduta that night (The Slovak symphony more often than not plays Friday night). It is the best of the 3 major performance venues - just stunning. Perhaps an Opera at the old or new theater (you are a walk to either)... buses pull in from Vienna every night for those who can't/won't spend 200 euro for the best seats (although, in Vienna, I stand for 4 euro).

Or, swing into Studio Club on Laurinska and see what is happening - a jazz venue.

Personally, I would not eat at the hotel. If you want to eat close to your hotel, I might go to "The Beer Palace" (which sounds a bit weird, but it's nice). But hands down, I go to Mestiansky Pivovar (a microbrew with fantastic beer and food). There are 2 locations, but I go to the one on Dunajskej. Prasna Basta in old town is also nice. All these choices are Slovak (which is the only food Slovaks actually know how to make- do not let anyone try to convince you they have mastered Italian).

The hotel will know all of these restaurants and will help you make a potentially much needed reservation. I do not drop in at any of these.

Drink where you wish in old town, but be very careful where you eat. And if you just want a pizza, Pizza Mizza (very near the Marrol) is cute for perhaps a fast lunch.

You can more than consume 2 days in Bratislava - a sweet little city with a good amount of crust.

And, of course, you can always take the bus to Devin castle should you bore of the old city...

I have blogged extensively about things to do at:

www.theworldinbetween.com

Under the tab "home", I have pages of Bratislava blogs.

I will now revert to my fodor's retirement. Enjoy Bratislava and contact me directly should you need anything else.

Julie

Thanks for the info, feeling much more positive about Bratislava now! I think a more laid-back weekend is the right choice given how little time we have.

Thanks for the food/drink recommendations...Slovak food and beer is exactly what we want. Mestiansky Pivovar looks fantastic. I will definitely check out your blog, Julie.

Does anyone know what we can expect to pay for drinks in the old town or have any recommendations for a light lunch around there?

Hi Clementine..No worries... Beer in old town should be about 1 euro 60 for a 1/2 liter. In general, the Czech beers are big (Pilsner Urguell)... Zlaty Bazant is the biggest Slovak beer.

For lunch, I might go to Prasna Basta... It can be light or heavy there. Our personal small favorite is Corny Cafe on the corner of Grosslingova and whatever street the blue church is on...

Also, lots of people go to Shtoor for light lunch - though I hear there was a bit of a business falling out (2 partners split)...and now I think they run competing places across from each other in old town. One is still Shtoor - the other something else.

Thank you for starting this post. I have been debating on another destination to add to my trip to Luthania and was thinking of Vienna. Then I saw Bratislava was close and thought it would make a nice day trip from Vienna. I am still debating so this information is very helpful.

Oh, why are you stunned that suggestions were made for Vienna? The OP posed the question, ostensibly seeking input. Truth be, there is a reason Bratislava is not asked about on most travel forums, and barely exists in most guide books. Bratislava offers little that is unique and worth more than a day's visit. The Old Town can be thoroughly walked in the better part of a day, especially in winter and in between market and festival season. (A friend and I did so last month, enjoying the couple of Christmasmarkts and good lighting for photos in between.) Add the possibility of inclement weather, sitting at an outdoor café or standing on the Bratislava Hrad hilltop (or trekking up to Devin Castle) does not make for a charming or relaxing weekend.

You noted that you blogged extensively about Bratislava, but I read nothing about how to spend a winter weekend in the city on your blog. I am not trying to be mean or snarky, and to be certain, Vienna is not an ultimate destination, but for someone who loves the sweet little city with a good amount of crust, inexpensive symphony tickets and a few meals does not quite fill a weekend.

I offer the friendly challenge: sell me on a winter weekend in your much loved city. How should I spend two possibly snowy/rainy/slushy days in Bratislava? In return, the next time you're in Vienna in winter, I'll do the same for you. :)

Four... we are not even talking about a weekend. We are talking about 2 days, both of which are travel days (and an expressed desire to relax and not spend much money.

With that, I'm gone... Poof... Enjoy Vienna.

44travel - I thought that yours was a very reasonable challenge.

Shame that OH hasn't read the thread properly as the OP has already decided to go to Bratislava and would therefore have benefitted from OH's knowledge of her favourite city.

I don't know why some people have to get so hoity-toity when one disagrees with them.

Oh dear, I seem to have started something!

I do understand why some would think 2 days was too long for Bratislava - that was why I started the thread in the first place - but I think trying to cram in Vienna would be too much stress and rushing around considering we don't even have one full day. We have quite busy lives in London and are constantly rushing around, so we want to be able to relax on our weekend away. We're hoping it'll be dry so we can visit the castle and walk around lots, but if it pours with rain the whole time, at least we'll be in a really nice hotel and in easy reach of bars and restaurants to try Slovak food and drink. We got cheap flights and it's meant to just be a nice getaway, really. I hope we're able to book similar flights again so we can try Vienna next time but ultimately I think it would be better to visit one city properly than rush around trying to do both on this occasion.

Clementine, no worries. There's a surprising number of Vienna haters on this forum, but to each their own. For us, a weekend getaway is the complete opposite: being "stuck" in a nice hotel would drive me batty, so we generally plan our getaways with multiple options in case the weather goes awry.

As Oh doesn't seem interested in offering travel advice for a winter weekend in Bratislava, please do report back on how the weekend went. We're but an hour away, and who knows? I may be inspired to relax for a weekend! :)

I totally understand that - it's just that we have such busy lives in London, spending so much time rushing from one place to another, that the thought of rushing around on our weekend away wasn't that appealing, especially when we're already doing airport runs and 2+ hour flights on both days. We do hope to get to the castle but if there's torrential rain or whatever, just enjoying some food/drinks would be fine. I will post a trip report, although it may not be that interested giving that we're planning on taking it quite easy!