Brahmama

Our friend had sent a driver to meet our 7 hour late plane! He drove us right to Domus Sessoriana.Over by St. Giovania of Laterna (ancient Rome) 283 euros for 3 nights. We had a tiny little room with 1 tiny little window. Bob was very upset, as he had previewed the rooms, but they were in another wing, and this one had just been opened. TV didn’t work, no chair, no wastebasket and the lift didn’t work! But a nice bath, and very clean - we shrugged - left our stuff and took off . We went first by the Colloseum - all lit up at night - and right next to the Forum. Then we walked up on Nero’s hill to the Nerone Restaurant. We had a lovely meal for our first night of our trip We ordered a liter of the good red house wine Will had veal and I had ravioli. We all shared antipasti, 2 green salads, artichokes, chicory, etc. Bob had rabbit and Jens had steak. We ended with timamus and a cream with chocolate. Then the owners treated us to lemoncello which was very nice. It was 80 Euros for the 4 of us. Great place!<BR>Next day:<BR>We caught the bus at 8:00AM and rode to the Vatican. We went through the Vatican museum - then the sistine chapel, and then St. Peter’s. We stopped for Roman pizza and wine at a nice little place Then we saw as much of rome as we could cram in! Famous squares,The Pantheon, several churches, the Fountain of Trevi and then back home. We took a bus to Trastevere and ate at very small, cozy trattoria - Da Orlinda. The menus was oral and the best part were the assorted antipasti that we started with. They just brought out bowls of it. Then each of us had a half order of different pasta and of course we drank wine again. It was less than 50 Euros for 3 people. <BR>3/9<BR>We slept late! The room was dark and we needed that sleep. We missed breakfast, which was no big deal! we finally got out about 10:00 and toook the bus to St. Peter’s in Chains. Then we went over to the colloseum and the forum and walked around a while. We met Bob at the Arch of constantine. We wanted to eat outside, so we bought sandwiches and drinks and walked over to a lovely parks where we watched people on their Sunday walks with their children. We got some gelato as we walked back. to St.John of Laterno (Rome's Church) We went on to the Borghese where we had reservations. It was great. We took a cab back to the hotel and took a nap and then we just walked about 3 blocks down from the Domus Sessoriana Hotel on the left .The name was printed inside the building on the arches, but you could see it through the windows...It was something like St. Croce Restaurant.We had another good meal,. Split an antipasta, ordered a pizza, spinich omelette, a pasta dish. and a tiramusa. We drank red wine and water and the owner treated us to a round of grappa! Also a complimentary side of crostini. The bill was around 50 Euro for the 2 of us. Back to bed, and packed for Tuscany! <BR>(to be continued in Tuscany!)<BR>

Brahmama

After posting the Rome segment of our trip, I realized how dry and dull it was. I didn't capture any of the magic and excitement at all! So I'll speak to that now. Rome was wonderful. There was so much to see that it was mind-boggling. We were busy and mvoing around a lot. We were never hassled, or bothered in any way. The people who helped us at cafes, on buses, etc, were all kind and helpful and patient with my laughable attempts at Italian. We did take the bus and subway as well as taxis. On the bus, when people spotted our map, they would ask us where we were going and tell us where to leave the bus. I guess we were lucky. (we always are on trips - not bragging, just a fact) Noone ever &quot;bumped&quot; me, shoved, threatened, we never saw any type of crime - etc. We did look and watch and were alert. It was just a wonderful experience.We took Rick's &quot;Mona Winks&quot; and used it on our trip, when we didn't have a local friend with us to give us the skinny. The Borghese is absolutely worth a trip. Get to the Vatican early in the morning to avoid lines. And smile a lot! People can't help smiling back. <BR>In the next part (going to Tuscany) we did have a bad experience, but it was our own fault. To give you a preview, we LOST EACH OTHER in the train station.....For over 2 and 1/2 hours.<BR>More later!!!

Brahmama

TUSCANY 3/10<BR>We woke up, packed had a bad breakfast, no oj, no cofee and no help from the desk to call Carla to meet us in Siena. We would not recommend this hotel. Took a cab to the train station. Will went to call Carla - but he never found me again. I stood there with the 3 bags and my purse until after time for the train to have left and then talked to the police as they walked by. They had me follow them to the staion where they paged him - but only his name was in English. By this time, I had decided that he had a stroke or some sort of a health problem. After another hour or so I finally decided that he must have gotten on the train (thinking I was already on it - though how I could have managed with all that luggage would have been a miracle - and no tickets, passport or money!!!) and sure enough, he was. When he realized I wasn’t on it, he got out at the closest stop, bought a ticket and came BACK to Rome. He went to the Information center, and we got back together- both absolutely exhausted. Martina, at the info center, got us tickets for the next train, called Carla to tell her the new time of arrival and we left. HOWEVER, - no problem in Termini itself! Very helpful people - no crime that I could see and I was watching everywhere because of all the warnings.<BR>Carla Giomi met us and took us to the square in Siena. First we had a bite to eat at a self-service place. Very nice. Then we walked all over Siena! Duomo, St Catherine’s church etc . Then she drove us to San Gimignano and we checked in room number 58 at the La Cisterna and it was absolutely perfect. The view was fantastic. Finally something is going right. But, oops, I forgot to mention, that my tooth had started to ache And it got worse. I took some more advil and we ate dinner at the hotel. Wine (of course) 2 salads, an omelette and soup for my poor little tooth. no dessert. Bread and water and the bill was over $40 - wowee!

Brahmama

TUSCANY - PART 2<BR>Bit I took a long long hot bath and hit the bed - very nice. very comfortable room. AND I started taking antibiotics and pain pills.<BR>3/11<BR>We had very nice breakfast (with a great view) and then we took the bus to Florence. It took about an hour with gorgeous scenery. We toured the Ufuzzi Gallery with Rick and his &quot;Mona Winks&quot; book. Good book and wonderful museum. Then we walked around everywhere. We visited the Duomo and the Museum, St. Croce, the beautiful Baptistery doors. We had lunch at a sidewalk cafe. Will had Florentine bifsteak and I had risotta (soft for my TOOTH!) and red wine. Then we walked around some more and took the bus back to Sam Gimignano. We ate supper at the Cherriberi - great meal and friendly nice people. We ate there 3 nights and highly recommend it. Do make reservations as it is small. The bill averaged about 40 Euros for 2 people. We normally had 1 antipasto, 2 pasta,1 soup(!), 1 meat or fish, and 1 or 2 vegetables. We ended with a desert - usually split it. Always had wine, water. etc. <BR>3/12<BR>Festival day in San Gimignano. we walked all around, bought stuff at the market and lunched on our balcony. This was the most beautiful place that we stayed on our trip. The room was just great with a good bed and huge bathroom and 2 windows to see that view. We did not find the huge crowds at San G - even on the feast day with the market. However, we aren’t “shoppers” so I can’t advise on that. We absolutely loved it here and would return in a heartbeat. If you would like pics of the sunsets, room, piazzo, breakfast room, I’ll be glad to email them to you.<BR>3/13<BR>Carla met us at 8:30 and drove us to Assissi. It was about 21/2 hours each way. We saw wonderful sights and stopped at Perugia on the way back, where we got some chocolate. <BR>3/14<BR>Carla picked us up at 9:30 and we drove through Chianti to enjoy the scenery. We stopped at Panzano in Chianti and visited the Fattoria Montagliari. She got the keys and we toured the old winery. A completely different experience from the other wineries we have toured. Then we tasted the Chianti Classico and the Reserva, the Santa Fina and THEN! The balsamic vinegars which were wonderful! On to Greve in Chianti to walk around and visit the butcher shop. We were just in time to visit the Castle and have lunch there. Then on to Florence where we found our train, car and seats with no problem. We would use Carla Giomi again in a heartbeat. Excellent, efficient and friendly. AND, I am able to chew a bit now. I am so glad I got a prescription for the antibiotics and pain pills. I always have, but never needed them before. ........And we are off to Venice!<BR> <BR>

ira

Hi Mama,<BR> Thanks for your report. Glad you could smile about the low spots. Let's hear more.

ira

topping<BR>

Brahmama

Venice 3/14/03<BR>Train - We had bought a ticket for the Eurostar (2nd Class) which automatically has reserved seats. You can buy these through a machine and it couldn’t be easier. You must buy them in advance to get the reserved seats. It left on time and arrived in time and is great fun. We have ridden all over Europe and UK with Eurorail and Britrail and it brought back great memories. <BR>We rolled our bags outside at St. Lucia’s station and bought a vaporetto ticket and hopped right on. We got off at the San Marco exit - no problem.<BR>Hotel - Ambassador Tres Rose<BR>Our hotel was located splendidly for this time of year. It might be too noisy during high season. We just took the first right through the arch and over a small bridge (thank heavens) and a few more footsteps and we were there. I had found this on ITWG.com and highly recommend both the hotel and the booking service. We lucked into a deal - buy 3 nights and then 1 free. And when we checked out our total price was less than 300 Euro for 4 days. Unbelievable for Venice! The Tres Rose was very clean, had a lift, a good buffet breakfast, great bathroom with sliding shower doors, heated towel racks, TV, safe, 2 windows, non-smoking room, with a decent bed. It was small and very few drawers. Like ONE in the desk. For value received it was great. We have friends in Venice and as we were unlocking the door, the phone was ringing. As we are about 30 years older (and were dragging....) we begged off dinner and just found a close cafe and had the turista menu (read - big mistake!) but hey, the soup was good! (My tooth is better, though)<BR><BR>3/15<BR>After breakfast, Lucia and Juri showed up at reception and we were off. Since we’d been to Venice before but hadn’t gotten to the islands, Lucy wanted us to spend the day there. We headed for Burano after buying a 3 day vaporetto pass. And burano was wonderful! Wildly colored houses, and white balloons everywhere. Lucy explained that the balloons started at the home of the wedding party and that is how the guest found the way. As luck would have it, we had reserved a table for four at the same place that the wedding party would have their meal. So we could see and hear the music and festivities. Our meal was great. <BR>Tratoria da Romano - this was a splurge and we were intending to treat the four of us, but Juri wanted this to be his treat. We had mostly the Venetian specialties -antipasti of mussels, and ensaldo misto, Lucy and Juri had fish recommended by the waiter, I had a wonderful pasta of the house, Will had veal, we had grilled vegetables and a lemon cake and (of course) the house red wine, which was a bit bubbly. Lovely meal.<BR><BR>

Brahmama

Venice continued<BR>Then we went on to Torcello to check out the old church. We got back to the mainland and decided to skip dinner. We walked around the tiny alleys close to the hotel and full of the magic of Venice we went to our room, turned on the TV and there was Rod Steward - singing his old and new songs. What a delight. E<BR>The only other english channel was CNN and you know what that was - continual talk about the upcoming war. We chose not to watch it anywhere.<BR>3/16<BR>After breakfast, Lucy and Juri came by and we walked over the Academia bridge and all around the Salute church for wonderful pictures. Of course ALL of Venice is a pic. We checked out the gondola square. Juri said that it was the place where the gondolas were made for Las Vegas for thousands of dollars, but they are authentic. We had lunch at<BR>San Travaso Tavern 94 Euros for 4<BR>I had read about it on newsgroups and Lucy (a Venetian) also enjoyed going there. So we got a non-smoking table for four (we never asked for one, but Lucy preferred that) and had another feast. We had antipasto of mixed boiled and grilled shell fish, lovely salads, pizza, and I had pasta as usual - no soup this time! We ate and drank and talked for a long time. We ordered sgraspino (I know I have spelled this wrong, but Lucia is sending me the recipe for this delectable drink, let me know if you want it) It’s vodka, proseco, lemon juice, and cream. Juri said there was too much vodka in it, I loved it! After walking around some more to digest some of that huge meal.<BR>Tipping<BR>Roma - when we ate with our friend from Rome (an american who has been there 9 years) he checked the bill and added 10 percent only if service wasn’t included, but did round up to a Euro.<BR>Tuscany - our guide (family has lived in San Gimignano since the 14th century) gave us a sort of a lecture as we were figuring out tips. She scooped up what Will left on the table and informed us “that is NOT the Italian way”.<BR>Venice - Lucy (native of Venice) examined the check and again said that if service is included, tipping is not done.<BR>So, I have no opinion on this hot subject, just relaying our experiences.<BR>We left our friends and took a much needed nap, as tonight at 9:00 we are going to a Vivaldi concert. And we did and it was very nice. A lady from London who we met later asked me to include in this report that photography during the concert is horrid and should not be done - even though there are no longer signs posted. It was just a few blocks from our hotel and afterwards we puttered around in the squares and listened to music at San Marco’s.<BR>

Brahmama

Venice - the last part!<BR>Had breakfast and left a note at Rosa Rossa for Lucia that we were going to have a down day and wouldn’t meet for lunch. (Her cell phone was down too) We just had to have a slow wander day for the 2 of us. We loved the Academia area so we went there first. We went to the museum first and loved it. We were doing museums in order this trip - first the ones in Rome (the Borghese was our favorite) then in Florence (the Ufuzzi captured our hearts) and then this one. We missed the Guggenheim this time. We also checked out all the markets. We had lunch outside at the Belle Art tiny little cafe right as you enter the museum. We just had 3 toasts (different kinds) and 4 glasses of wine. We were the first to sit outside, but when we left at least 10 of the tables were occupied. It was a lovely view, as we could see the bridge and Salute peeking around the corner. Then I had to find San Rafael - the church and the area as I had read “Miss Garnet’s Angel” several times and loved it. So we walked over there. It was encased with scaffolding, but we could see Rafael on the tip-top. Hopefully next time, I will get inside that church. then we caught a vaporetto and took a long trip through the canals and just let the sun shine on us as we sat outside. At sunset we strolled back to the hotel and got packed. We are a little apprehensive about Paris, but here we go!

Brahmama

On to Paris 3/18<BR>Up at 7:00 and ate a small breakfast. Rolled our bags to Aliguna &amp; caught the boat at 8:50. We met a lady from London(angel?) named Sondra who began a conversation with me. She somehow “knew” where we had been, and about the Rafael story and then proceeded to tell me that we “must” go on to Paris and that it would be a wonderful time and we were not to worry. This was a very strange feeling for both my husband and me - for this lady to seem to know so much about us. Well, at CDG we did try to change our tickets to get home before the 20th, but it was not possible, so we shrugged and continued as planned. (This lady did reassure us - if you happen to read this, Sondra, thank you so much!) We caught the ParisShuttle. We waited about 5 minutes and we whisked up in a van with a couple on their honeymoon. We had an excellent driver (I did close my eyes sometimes!) and he dropped us at the Folkestone Opera first. As echnicians were working on the lift, we left our bags downstairs and checked out our room. I had asked for a Queen Deluxe non-smoking room as I figured we’d need it by our last 2 nights in Europe on this trip. The room was fine - not as large as I’d hoped. But a good bed, window overlooking a good view, large bathroom with a big tub/shower, and drawers this time! Of course a TV, safe, and central air/heat which we immediately turned off. (We like to sleep cool)<BR>We dashed downstairs and purchased a 2 day ticket on the Big Red Bus for 21 euros each. The bus stop was about 4 blocks away. We finally found it after asking about 5 people (all of whom were helpful, even with very little English) This was a good deal for us. We sat upstairs and the bus went to 9 important sites/sights! Willl got out and walked around. I just walked up and down the stairs when I got cold at the top. He was so excited about the Eiffel tower and took a LOT of pics there! It was his first time in Paris, but I’d been here for a week with my sister a few years ago. It was a gorgeous day - sun shining - about 60 - 65 degrees F, even a few trees in bloom, and every language you can imagine on that bus! And lots of smiles! We got back about 6:00 PM and the lift was fixed, so we got the luggage up, cleaned up and started checking out the places to eat.

Brahmama

Paris continued<BR>There must have been 20 cafes/restaurants in a 2 block area. Now the Hotel Folkestone Opera is located just down the street from the Madeleine Church with the Opera about 3 blocks the other way. No one on the newsgroups recommended this area to stay! I DO! It was great. Flower stands, fruit stands, real stores, close transportation. I think it was the 9th - anyway, it was just perfect. We decided on the La Castallane - very close to our hotel - as we were reading the menu outside, we saw friendly smiles from INSIDE and I think that (plus the price) made up our mind. This was not a cheap meal and I have no idea what the rating is. But the food was fabulous. There were few tables, and the 2 tables closest to us were natives. (who smiled at us and took our pictures too!) We paid 69 Euros for this meal and ate every bite. We started with a bottle of red wine, basket of bread, French onion soup (oh my gosh - incredible), a huge salad with artichoke hearts, asparagus, fresh tomatoes, and mixed greens. Will had an excellent Bordeux filet with fries and green beans. I had the Tuscany veal (mushrooms in creme sauce) with veg, Will had assorted cheeses (huge assortment of bries and bleus) and I had apricot tart. Both the owner and the waiter were at our table, as the waiter had more English.<BR>We tried to walk off our meal and then to our room!<BR><BR>3/19<BR>Down for our very best breakfast. Boiled eggs, ham, cheeses, fruits, juices, breads, cakes, even creme brulee. No Americans in sight, but everyone friendly and pointed and smiled a lot. We got back on the Big Red Bus and saw the sights again until we came to the Notre Dame stop. Then we walked to the St. Chapelle and were mesmerized by the stained glass windows. The sun was out (again) and as we sat there, one window after another would light up. After a couple of hours, we pried each other up and out and visited Notre Dame for another incredible experience. Then back on the BRB for Musee D’Orsay. Omigod. We spent literally the rest of the day here. We would look and sit for a while - finally found a tea room in the museum and had a great lunch. Wine, quiche, a great salad, some sort of crostini with tomatoes, olives, ham, sardines, eggs,more salad and bread. 25 Euro for 2. Then we walked through this fantastic museum until our feet and minds just gave out. We took the BRB back to the Opera and found a little place where we ate lemon sorbet (frozen in lemons) outside and then walked around the Madeleine Church, visited the gourmet places. We got back after dark. Paris was wonderful - we had no problems at all.

Brahmama

Final Paris and Home 3/20<BR>After a (great) breakfast, we were checking out and a French lady living in Sardinia was also. We discovered we were all going to CDG so we shared a taxi. She was a life-saver, as she thought our taxi would be too late, and in too much traffic, so she had reception call an earlier one. We had another good Chinese taxi driver who had relatives in California - we got to CDG in plenty of time, but there was a LOT of security. (This is the 20th, remember). We passed through, with no exams, but lots of polite questions. We were happy about the security. We left on AA about 20 minutes late and the nice lady at the gate gave my big and tall husband 2 bulkhead seats so he was a happy camper. We flew non-stop to DFW - we had to buy the Bordeaux wine for $5 a bottle, but it was good (after I let it warm up) and the food was the best I’ve had on an airline. Comfortable seats on this 777 and polite service. We landed about 10 minutes late with lots more security to go through and then outside (the coldest on our trip!) to wait for our ride.<BR><BR>If you have waded all the way through this, I hope you picked up an idea or two. We are budget travelers, as you have seen, and these are just my opinions about what our trip was like.<BR>Travel is like oxygen for me - I am so grateful that we went.<BR><BR>If you have any questions, [email protected]<BR><BR><BR>

ira

Hi Mama,<BR><BR> Thanks for your report. Glad you had such a good time. <BR><BR> What was the rate at your hotel? That's quite a breakfast they offer.

mclaurie

I really enjoyed reading your trip report. I do have a few questions. What did you wind up bringing your friend Lucy as a gift? What was the name of the restaurant in Burano? Finally, how is your tooth?! Welcome home and thanks.

Brahmama

Ira,<BR>Sorry I had it in, but guess I changed that when I was editing! The Folkestone Opera was our splurge at 137.50 Euro per night. But it was a good move for us!<BR>Thanks for reading this whole thing and for your support and advice!<BR>Brah / Carol<BR><BR>Mclaurie,<BR>You remembered about Lucy! Well, I ended up taking her some home-grown BBQ sauce with a bull on the bottle! (We raise a small herd of Brahman cattle, so it seemed approprite) Then we picked up a bottle of Chiantic classico in Tuscany and gave that to her too. she was tickled about the BBQ sauce! Her mother is very experimental cook and I imagine it will end up in some very good cooking. The Restaurant in Burano was &quot;Tratoria da Romano&quot;. Yum, I can still see us all there.

TravelerGina

Brahmama:<BR><BR>Thank you so much for taking the time to do such an interesting and informative trip report. I will be going to Italy in the fall and Paris next spring, so I found lots of information that I will keep to use on my trips. Glad you had such a good time!

RachelG

Brahmama, <BR>Your story about getting lost in the train station reminded me of a similar experience. We were to get off the TGV in St Pierre des Tours. My luggage was stored in a different compartment from my husband's and sons'. I got off the train with my stuff, turned around, and the train was leaving with my husband and sons standing there still on the train. I had to try and explain the situation to the station attendants with my impossible French. They had someone meet the train at the next station and sent my husband and sons back--my husband's excuse was that he thought the door would open automatically, like a door on the Metro!<BR>Your trip sounds wonderful (despite tooth problem). I can't wait to go to Italy.