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-   -   Bologna: A one week itinerary (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/bologna-a-one-week-itinerary-851910/)

LowCountryIslander Jul 28th, 2010 04:54 PM

ann...

I vote for 2 weeks! :-D

I have a co-worker who has done a language course in Bologna, I believe she did a 2 week course and she loved it and Bologna! I believe besides the university, there are a good number of language schools to choose from.

If you decide to go in November post back, it would be great if we could coordinate meeting.

annhig Jul 29th, 2010 08:49 AM

Hi LCI,

that's encouraging. i know when i looked at language schools last year, bologna was towards the top of my list, if not right at the top.

if i go ahead, I'll be in touch!

regards, ann

LowCountryIslander Jul 29th, 2010 10:15 AM

Ann...

In case you're interested...my co-worker went to Cultura Italiana language school. It's located on Via Castiglione, 4. Here is the link to their website:

www.culturaitaliana.it

annhig Jul 29th, 2010 01:49 PM

mille grazie, LCI.

i have a friend who went on a course in Arezzo - i wonder if it was this one?

drbb Jul 30th, 2010 10:18 AM

Hi Lowcountry -

your itinerary sounds great. Nice and relaxed.

Bologna is a town for pre-eminent people-watching and food shopping. Could spend days doing it. The area around the university is very nice for strolling and taking in the student culture. Also don't forget the Due Torri.

The only thing I might add to the trip is an opportunity to actually explore Parma and Modena - not sure if you are as part of your food experience trip. Most of the food production facilities are on the ouitskirts of these two towns. They are worth a visit if you have the time.

Enjoy!

LowCountryIslander Jul 30th, 2010 11:43 AM

drdd...

Thanks for the advice on Parma & Modena, will certainly take that into account. The apartment we are renting is not far from the Due Torri, so that is definitely on my list of sites to see!

JulieVikmanis Aug 1st, 2010 06:38 AM

Hi Low,
I just bumped into a website that I think might interest you if you haven't already discovered it for yourself. Info on Bologna.

http://www.worldfoodieguide.com/inde...ews-new/italy/
Enjoy. Julie

LowCountryIslander Aug 1st, 2010 04:40 PM

Julie..

Thanks for the link. I hadn't seen that blog before.

Sally30 Aug 1st, 2010 05:52 PM

Not sure if it is in your budget but if you could stay overnight in Ravenna (leaving your stuff in your Bologna apartment) I think it would be well worth it. We went for a day trip as well and wished we had more time.

There are a lot of interesting sites in Bologna. Don't miss the museums at the University or the beautiful churches. Good clothes shopping too (although hard after all that eating).

Other than that, I think your trip looks great. I am excited the trip is getting close. I remember you mentioning in the winter that you were planning a trip.

fredplotkin Aug 2nd, 2010 07:07 AM

Thanks for purchasing my book. I think it will be useful to you. I would suggest you book a table at Hostaria Giusti in Modena for lunch one day. They are not open every day and fill up, so act now. Ravenna and Verona are great destinations too. Here is an article that might be of interest: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/de...d-of-town.html My book will also give you many ideas not only about Bologna but other towns too. Ciao, Fred

LowCountryIslander Aug 2nd, 2010 07:56 AM

Sally...

Thanks for the tips. Right now we are still planning to day trip to Ravenna, but that could change!

Fred...

Thanks for posting here and thanks for the link to your article. I have your book on my dining room table just waiting for me to dig into it! :-)

drbb Aug 2nd, 2010 08:20 AM

I second Hosteria Giusti in Modena - they have a web site now so that you can contact them for reservations. Only 4 tables. It was a fantastic experience, one we still talk about.

Here's an excerpt from my trip report:

Long before we arrived, I had asked the concierge at the Orologio to make reservations for us at the famed Osteria Giusti in Modena. When we checked in however, the concierge reported that contact with Giusti had never been established; the hotel’s phone calls and fax had not been acknowledged. This restaurant has been hyped by Mario Batali, and there is a food cult aura around it, but we wanted to give it a go anyway.

Armed with the name of another restaurant as back up, we stopped at vicolo del Squallore 46, on a narrow alleyway to check it out. A sign outside said “al completo” but I opened the door to see three of four tables vacant. The owner (who we learned later was Nano Morandi’s son) came out and I started to explain that we tried to make reservations. But after just three or four words, he gestured to a table, saying “Si. Si. Sit. Sit. Welcome.” So we quickly sat before he changed his mind! He never even asked my name.

A pretty little yellow room with only four tables. Beautiful china, glassware and linens. The wine list was very nice with many famous names and labels. We asked for a recommendation. He suggested Lambrusco of course, the favorite wine of Emilia-Romagna! I was taken aback given that behind my chair was a display of Chateau Petrus bottles dating back to 1967. Now I actually like Lambrusco but we felt the occasion needed something more. He had just the thing. He opened a bottle and poured, and it was delicious. He handed us the bottle. It was a 1999 Barbera d’Asti. His own Giusti label bottled by Coppo.

The lunch was exquisite, hype or not!
Antipasti:
Gnoccho fritto- five airy puffs of dough, each topped with a small slice of cured meat. I recognize salame, proscuitto and lardo.
Fried minestrone fritters topped with a drizzle of aceto balsamico.

Primi:
We each have a half portion of the amazing tortellini in brodo – the pasta is stuffed with a mix of veal, mortadella, proscuitto, parmigiano. The capon broth is clear and rich.

Secondi:
Cotechino fritto – slices of cotechino sausage dusted with flour and grated cheese, sauteed, and topped with a savory zabaglione
A trancio of pork, slow braised in white wine and herbs, served at room temperature with an agrodolce jam of red onions. It sounds so simple but it was a heavenly combination of flavors.

Dolci:
Two half slices of a thin crostata of amarena cherries. We finish off with our usual caffe macchiato.

Cost: 127 euros.

We asked about the wine and the owner shows us into his underground cellar across the alley – Gaja, Pio Cesare, brunellos of all sorts. Hundred of bottles. We bought a bottle of his Barbera as a momento to be enjoyed at home. We then asked about aceto balsamico and he showed us into his shop which usually wasn’t open again until 3:30. We bought an expensive bottle of aged vinegar and a less expensive bottle for salad dressings. Cost of balsamic and bottle of wine: 149 euros.

What an experience! Try to snag a table if you visit Modena. Only open for lunch.

LowCountryIslander Aug 2nd, 2010 08:47 AM

drbb...

Wow...my mouth is watering reading your description of lunch! Thanks for sharing. :-)

violetduck Aug 2nd, 2010 09:02 AM

Be sure and attend one of the church services. We didn't understand much of the language(did understand a bit about love and John 3:16), but the music was wonderful and it was a very meaningful service.
We are very fond of dogs and there was a man sitting next to me with an adorable Jack Russell terrier. When we stood the dog stood, sat when we sat and was much better behaved than many others in the service. I so wanted to take a picture, but didn't feel that was very respectful in church. Another thing very different for us was watching the parents stroll their babies up and down the side aisles all during the service. Happy travels!!

annhig Aug 2nd, 2010 03:09 PM

lovely stories, drbb, and violetduck.

now to work out how i get myself to Bologna for longer than a week! thinking 1 week's language course and a few days either side...flying into Milan...train to..parma, stay 2 nights, then onto bologna, stay a week, then back to Modena, stay 2 nights, home via milan.

now that's a plan!

to sleep, perchance to dream...

LowCountryIslander Aug 2nd, 2010 06:11 PM

ann...

That sounds like a plan to me! :-D

rosetravels Aug 2nd, 2010 08:59 PM

This all sounds so wonderful. I was in Bologna for several days - maybe 5? - with my daughter two years ago in February and we loved it. We loved, and still often talk about, the tour of the balsamic house. It was just the two of us - we booked it online ourselves. I loved, and often think about, the Morandi Museum.

We did the hike up to the church through the porticos and really enjoyed it. Got back to town just in time for a big lunch. If you go up there, perhaps you could take a cab most of the way and then walk the last bit? That would give you the best of the experience as it's truly unique. It was faster going down, more so for my daughter. The knees...

We had lunch after our balsamic tour at Giusti in Modena and it was special. I ordered the famed Cotechino Fritto, my daughter had a lamb or veal shank and we both liked hers better.

We did a day trip to Ravenna, on a Sunday, and that was also a special day.

I could spend a lot more time in Bologna. Might not fit onto the airplane afterwards but it would be fantastic.

LowCountryIslander Aug 4th, 2010 10:24 AM

OK...

After hearing & reading a bit more about Modena in general and Hosteria Giusti in particular(we do enjoy a good meal!)I'm leaning towards doing a day trip to Modena instead of Verona. Decisions Decisions!

Now I'm thinking just focus the whole week on the Emilia Romagna region and plan to go to Verona on another visit.

annhig Aug 4th, 2010 10:44 PM

LOI, I know it was a long time ago, [before we produced any offspring to accompany us to Italy, and they are now 22 & 19!] DH and I spent a morning in Verona. Perhaps it was because we'd just left Venice and were finding our first morning in our hire car a little trying, perhaps we were a little too hot [it was July], perhaps we were just teasy and missing Venice.

whatever the cause, we were distinctly underwhelmed by Verona.

i'd go for Modena, IIWY. as it's a day trip, you can always change your mind when you're there.

LowCountryIslander Sep 3rd, 2010 10:30 AM

I am thrilled to report I have a confirmed lunch reservation at Hosteria Giusti in Modena for my November trip! :-)

I emailed the hosteria via their website at the beginning of August. I received a lovely reply just the other day apologizing for having taken so long to reply, but they were closed the month of August (I should have known that!)

They confirmed the day I requested...I know, some may think I'm crazy to be excited over a lunch reservation, but I am really looking forward to this place!

Thanks to all for your input! Now the wait is killing me!:-D


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