Bologna
 

I will be in Bologna for a week while husband is working. Like to walk the back streets...anybody know of good street markets or food markets or qauint or good restaurants? Thanks in advance.

I can't give you any specific names, but we stumbled upon some of the best little restaurnts while there.(the best as compared to all the other Italian cities we visitied) Just "wing it" as well as getting some suggestions.
Sorry, I have no particulars, but like I said all the food was fantastic. Try something translated into "Volcanoe Pizza" - yummm

Thanks Annesherrod...intend to have fun!!

Hi Min,

Some suggestions

Headed down Via delle Independenza, but made a detour at Via Augusto Righi to Gelateria Moline, Via delle Moline 13. By far, the best gelato we had in Italy.

Lunch was on the terrace of Da Cesarina, across the piazza from San Stefano. This was a lucky find. The cooking was almost as good as at Il Ritrovo. The intense flavor of the cantaloupe with prosciuto still lingers in memory. We shared a mixed antipasto - Cantaloup with prosciuto, bruscheta with another kind of prosciuto, mortadella. My LW had the seafood salad: calamari, shrimp, prawns, octopus, and cured salmon over tomatoes and onions with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and I had the tagliatelli Bolognese. The ragu had that almost burnt flavor that comes from long, long browning of the meat. Dessert was a generous cup of blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and ribes. This last is a little, grape-like thingy that we had not seen before and which turned out to be a kind of currant. The family also owns the Cesarii vineyards from which they produce a very good Trebbiano di Romagna and a Sangiovese. About 50E with wine.

The folks at Nuovi Notai, where we had dinner, let us sit on the terrace and drink water until it was time to open. This allowed us to rest up for first class, impeccable, yet pleasant, service. Good food, nice wines. LW had Pecorino and Pear salad, Potato flan with fried leeks, Tagliatelli with Porcini mushrooms. (I would have done the pears as dessert.) I had the potato flan, Tagllieri in duck ragu, roast lamb, and finished with a Vin Santo with pistachio biscotti.

In via Drapperie there is one of the most famous food shops, Tamburini, that now has a small self service opened at lunch time.

The big central market, il Mercato della Erbe, is on Via Ugo Bassi near Via Marconi, close to the church of San Francesco.

Another good gelato place is Gianni on Via Montegrappa, not far from the market.

I can't give you any specific recommendations of places, but I can tell you that we fell in love with the total ambiance of Bologna. Just being in Piazza Maggiore, just strolling the streets, just visiting the Etruscan museum and a lot more were pure joy. Also, if you get a chance go to the nearby city of Ferrara and stroll the old part of the city.

Can I nitpick my own previous post? It's Mercato delle (not della) Erbe. I actually know the grammar, it's the keyboarding that stumps me every time!

Mincepie,

I've pasted what I wrote earlier this year on another thread about Bologna:

Author: Riffic
Date: 06/03/2004, 04:58 am
Message: Dutti,

To save you all the trouble of searching for Bologna threads on this forum, I am pasting in a separate reply the compilation I assembled just before Easter, 2004.

I really feel badly for not getting trips reports out for our last 6 or so trips. But since our Easter trip to Bologna/Tuscany, work has been killing me.

For restaurants, try and make a reservation fro Osteria Il 15 (see below) at least 2 days in advance. We tried to make reservations the same day in person and they were fully booked. You need a detailed map to find the street. It wasn't on the poor-excuse-for-a-map the hotel gave us. We stumbled upon it by accident.

We had amazing espresso at a great cafe, whose name slips my mind (second favorite espresso in italy, so we bought lots O' beans). I have the name at home, so I'll try to remember to look tonight.

Finally, the Canals that are mentioned are a one-minute walk from Hotel Holiday. To get there, turn left out of the hotel lobby, then right at the very first (small) street. Canal is on both sides, with the 'hidden' window door being on the left.





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Author: Riffic
Date: 06/03/2004, 04:58 am
Message: for Dutti:

Bologna

CANALS

Now about looking for the canal that was mentionned. Walk on the via A. Righi away from the via dell' independenza. Turn right on the via Piella and you should cross it. You have to look very carefully since the viewing area is very small on both sides of the street. I think I have the correct street but if you take me there I can definitely find it for you.

The canal can be seen off of Via Righi, on one of the side streets to the right. You'll see the canal clearly on the left side of the street and on the right side is a little wood window you can open and peer through
Lunch ? Da Cesarina ? across from Piazza San Stefano

Osteria 15, Via Mirasole 15 (Bolognese)
Trattoria san Pietro (off of Indipendenza) (traditional Italian, a bit pricey but great great service)
Bella Napoli, Via San Felice (great pizza, fun restaurant)
Nikola's, Via Oberdan and Via Marsala (cheap and good food)
One place I do remember (mostly because it was my father John's birthday) was Trattoria da Gianni ("Gianni" = "Johnny"). The food was excellent albeit a tad rich, because what I ordered was in a cream sauce and I don't really care for cream sauces. I forget where it is, but it's near Tamburini, northwest of Piazza Maggiore (I'm defining walking up Viale dell'Indipendenza as "north"). It's down an alley, so you'll have to look for it.Another place was Da Nello, just off Indipendenza on the last street before you get to Via Ugo Bassi (the Due Torri street). I think that the street name is Via Montegrappa.Just up Via Montegrappa (?) a couple of blocks from Da Nello is Bologna's best gelateria. It's expensive, but when I was there it was packed. Great granita, too.There's a self-service cafeteria on Via Ugo Bassi just east of Piazza Maggiore (again, using the same north reference as before). I think it was called Bass'Otto. The food was okay for mass-produced food, but it was a good way to eat a light lunch in air conditioning and -- get this -- a no-smoking section! Granted, in February, I hope you don't need air conditioning.... Whatever you do and wherever you go, make sure to pick up some Bolognese/Emilia-Romagnan delicacies like parmigiano, prosciutto, and lambrusco in a salumeria somewhere. Bring them back to your hotel room, maybe with some vegetables, and you'll enjoy your own cooking. Helluva lot cheaper too.
Author: richard j vicekDate: 12/08/2002, 09:38 am Message: Good morning, GabrielHere are two more which we have usedin past years, all very close to the PzaMaggiore.LA MELA , via de Fusary, 5, excellantpizza and also fish dishes. $$$ resvnsuggested..TRATTORIA DA ADOLFO, Corte Galluzzi, 7excellant, simple ,family run trattorialocated about 1 block down the Massimo d'Azeglino from the Pza Maggorie, inlittle court to the left. very fewtables, reservations a must....verygood food. Loved this place.Richard of LaGrange Park, Il...
Author: russDate: 12/08/2002, 01:38 pm Message: Gabriel,I have eaten at the all of the restaurants mentioned below except La Mela and can say they are great suggestions. The best Gramigna con Salsiccia (a type of pasta with sausage) I have ever had was at Da Adolfo. It is a Bolgnese specialty, but something about theirs was extra special. Buon Appetito!
Author: SallyDate: 12/08/2002, 01:41 pm Message: And if you want to have an excellent meal at one of Bologna's best restaurants, try Cesarina at the Piazza ?? (rats, forgot the name!) Anyway, it's right in the center, just about ten minutes walk or so from the Piazza Maggiore. And the others are right: just about every restaurant in Bologna is excellent!
Author: Alice TwainDate: 12/09/2002, 12:58 pm Message: Yum yum yum:Actually most restaurants in Bologna are quite poor. We, I mean the people from Emiliar Romagna, have a peculiarity: we would rather have a mediocre meal outside (not bad, only mediocre) so tat once at home we can say " I eat better at home". This attitude (I am not trying to fool you!!!) is frequent in every large city of Emilia, but it is particularly common in Bologna and Parma. Most restaurant will offer you standard foos perpared with little respect for the tradition, lots of cream sauces (one good rule: whe in Italy you order a dish of pasta ask how is the sauce made, if the waiter says "panna" or "cream" chose something else, with the only exception of ragù alla bolognese) and usually too high prices.
Author: zDate: 12/09/2002, 03:06 pm Message: Ristorante Bitone Via Emilia levante, 111 Bologna 40100+39 051546110Located in MazziniThe old Bitone restaurant is not far from the old town, on the old street that crosses Bologna that leads o other large Emilian cities offering excellent home cooking together with great courteousness and hospitality.midday-2.30pm, 7.30pm-11pm Wed-Sun.
Author: homesick for italyDate: 12/14/2002, 10:54 pm Message: I ate at Cesari recently... they have some nice added touches built into the cost of the meal (ie. welcome glass of champagne... and "complimentary" grappa at end of meal). very friendly, great traditional bolognese dishes.Ristorante Cesari / via de? Carbonesi 8 (051/237710)
Author: RAR ([email protected])Date: 03/14/2003, 02:40 pm Message: Since I'm hungry for dinner right now, I'll add some thoughtsa Mela has decent food, and a decent pizza. Not one of the best places, but it is conveniently placed 2 seconds from Piazza Maggiore.Best pizza in city: La Bella Napoli, Via San Felice. Trattoria da Gianni is indeed one of the best spots in the city.Gelateria da Gianni is my favorite spot for gelato (yes, it is on Via Montegrappa). 2nd place is La Sorbetteria on Via Castiglione.Never tried out Cesari yet, supposed to be great though.For the best tortellini con panna in the city (a Bolognese dish), head to Biaggi, at San Felice and the Viale. It is however ratherpricey. Book ahead.For great service and food, at somewhat of a cost (but not as high as Biaggi) try Trattoria da Pietro. It's on Via Falegnami, a small road between Indipendenza and Galiera.Last, but not least, my favorite place, Osteria il 15. Located on Via Mirasole 15, which is a small road near Via d'Azeglio and the Viale. They only serve traditional Bolognese food. Has great gramigna con salsiccia, awesome awesome crescentina, and really good lasagna. Real nice atmosphere (small, cozy), fun, and not too pricey. Call in advance to reserve, or you won't get a table until late. # is 051 33 18 06.



Food Shops

Tamburini Via Caprarie 1

Thanks all for the replies..Riffic too for pulling up all that info. I really appreciate it and hope to use it well. This is a great site and the number of people who help you out encourage me to help others. Thanks again.

Goodmorning, Mincepie
here are a couple of sites to surf:
www.immagica.it/bologna/
www.comune.bologna.it/
www.provincia.bologna.it/
www.omega.it/ospite_bc
www.smart.it/bologna/
and last but do not miss
www.tamburini.com
Beleive stores and shops are closed on
Thursday afternoons, at least they were the last time we were in Bologna.
Richard of LaGrange Park, IL>.