Bodensee
 

We'll be heading for Baden-Württemberg in 2012. It'll be my first time to the Bodensee. Typically I start out with an ambitious itinerary and then make cuts.

How long did you spend at the Bodensee?
Was it too long or too short?

We'd like to see it all; visit the castle in Meersburg, Lindau etc plus the surrounding area. Of course there's quite a bit in Baden-Württemberg that interests us but time is a limitation (14 days)

Any insight you can offer is appreciated. Thanks

Downstream from Lake Constance there is Stein-am-Rhein.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...57622927438333

I'd say one week in one place at Bodensee is a good idea. Then move to another base. After a while it becomes more of the same, somehow.

First pick one location at the western lake - I found Konstanz to be a very interesting town and an excellent hub for doing day trips in all directions. For the second week I'd probably head to Lindau at the eastern end of the lake from where you can easily do day trips into the mountains (Alps).

I.

Be sure to spend some time the flower island of Mainau, and of course take a nice walk or bike ride along the lakefront promenade. It's fun just to stroll around the pedestrian area, also. I loved Meersburg!

We stayed in the charming and inexpensive Gasthof zum Bären. Our room had an oriel window at which my sister spent some time watching passers-by walking down the street in two directions.

Stein-am-Rhein was charming, too. Lots of little cafes along the river. It's in Switzerland, by the way.

We have stayed in Lindau, Meersburg, Uberlingen and Stein am Rhein. We enjoyed them all. Lindau was a bit of a hassle due to there only being one way on and off the insel. Traffic was really backed up.

Like Peg, we stayed at the Gasthof zum Bären in Meersburg. It IS charming and the restaurant has fantastic food. Uberlingen was a surprise. We didn't expect it to be so lovely. BUT, Stein am Rhein is an absolute jewel IMO. And, Mainau Island is a must for anyone who likes flowers. There is nothing like it.

I know you will have a wonderful time. It is a beautiful area.

bettyk: I've been to Meersburg and Konstanz several times but avoided Lindau for the reason you said--traffic in and out.

Thanks for all the replies so far.

You make it difficult to cut down on the 3 days we were thinking of spending there. Now, I wonder if that will be enough.

Ah, time limitation is the pleasurable sadness of travel isn't it?

Well, at least you got one answer to the question you actually asked.

I have been twice and stayed 3 days each time, in Meersburg, which, I think makes the best base. I went twice because I love the feel of the area, not because I thought I did not have enough time to see everything I wanted in just 3 days.

Mainau can be seen in half a day, Lindau will take the better part of a day, as will Konstanz.

I do find the area is more of a "feel" kind of place than one with specific things to do. It's a slower paced lakeside strolling kind of place - with moving from one day trip site to another the only real activity for me anyway) Decide how many days you want o spend doing that on this leg of your trip. Of course, if you want to do more on the water then a day or two more might be in order.

I know this is just one opinion, but I wasn't crazy about Konstanz.

This may interest, for the me the Zepplin museum, a Zepplin ride and the cable car in Austria are the big pulls. There are also so some fine gardens, including one on an island in the lake, finally you may find the ancient german pole village interesting ( I didn't but..)

http://www.mybikeguide.co.uk/Lake_Constance_Guide.php

If you travel on public transport, Meersburg is the worst base you could pick because it has no train connections. Stay in a place with better transport options. Konstanz is the main hub for the area.

The area around the Bodensee is full of "specific things to do" - but you see only what you know of, depends how well you do your research in advance... There is enough to fill 10-14 days easily. Limiting your stay to 3 days will require some tough decisions and good planning.

Konstanz is one of the very rare cities in Germany that have preserved their authentic medieval old town. You may want to havee a look at my Konstanz page over on Virtualtourist, which also has some tips about options for day trips: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/f86bd/b0dc/

Thanks!

I've been doing the research and had some ideas but there is nothing like tips from people who have been.

Thanks Aramis, I did want to know how to plan my time but I like the extras.

My husband wants to go to the Zepplin museum. I'm not going to mention any cable car. :)

My plan was to stay away from the lake somewhere where it might be possible to have a panoramic view of all of it. We will have a car.

Be warned there is a glass floor about 4 stories up at the Z Museum, you come out of the lift and your only option is step out...

Thanks bilboburgler, glass floors don't bother me and I should just get over being chicken about the darn cable car :)

I agree that Meersburg makes a great base, and Mainau is a must-see. I would stay on the lake - you can get great views from Meersburg as the town is laid out in two sections, with part of it set on a hill overlooking the lake. With the addition of the Zepplin museum I would spend a minimum of 3 days in that area. Of course there's lots more to see and do in the rest of Baden-Wuerttemberg...where shall I begin?

In general, stay on the German side of the lake, as the view
in direction Switzerland and Alps is much nore better then tge view from Switzerland to the German side.

The hub is Friedrichshafen, they even have an airport and there are trains to Ulm, Lindau and Singen. There are also passenger boats to Bregenz and Meersburg (and fron there to Überlingen or Konstanz, a direct catamaran speedboat to Konstanz and a ferry to Rorschach (Switzerland).

Friedrichshafen is known for its Zeppelin Museum ans alsp its long lakeside promenade. The town itself was heavily nombed in WW II, so for this very old town old times feeling, go to Ravensburg (20 km north of Friedrichshafen.

Neersburg is Fodorite´s darling, maybe for the pittoresquw nedieval center. It is also crowded in Summer, but definitely worths a visit. They also grow wine in Meersburg.

A little bit off is Eriskirch, a little village east of Friedrichshafen, known to bird watchers for its reed shore (Eriskircher Ried)and the iris growing in the meadows. Their lakiside bath (Strandbad) ist a nice one.

Langenargen to the East or Immenstaad to the West mighr also be considered for a base, both of them are served by passenger boats ob a daily schedule (Bodensse Schiffsbetriebe http://www.bsb-online.com/)

Off in the hinterland is Markdorf, maybe a base of chice if you have a car. Seme thing with Deggenhauser Tal, also off in the hinterland, nice inns, nice Ferien auf dem Bauernhof (holidays on a farm) but you need a car. It is quite simple, the closer to the lake, the higher the prices.

So I would suggest you to pick your base for a fourteen day stay and plan your excursions from there. Nest is, will you go by car or bei train/bus, as this will determine about your excursions. For travelling the lakeside, I suggest BSB passenger boats to enjoy the lake.

What more to suggest? The lttle deligthts, offered by bakeries and butcheries, a Butterbrezel or a Butterssele, a Schübling sausage or a Leberkäsweckle. If you will have a Bodenseefelchen or Egli (fish from the lake) in an lakeside inn, have some Hagnauer or Meersburger wine with it.
You will also get beer, Rothaus is a good one, or Farny Weizen, a refreshing sparkling wheat beer.

Actually stay on the German side as the prices on the Swiss side are very high

if you hear a maroon go off (if you hear it you will know) then leave the water; there are some mighty big storms for a little lake

LSki,
some further thoughts about Lake Constance.

I suppose, you will come to Germany by plane, landing either in Frankfurt or Munich. Will you continue your travel by train or by rental car? This a decision, you have to make, weighting pros and cons according to your wishes and intentions.

What kind of accomodation do you prefer? A Hotel? Or a Ferienwohnung (kind of short time rental appartment) or Ferien auf dem Bauernhof (short time renatsl appartment located on a farm - I suggest Bavaria Bens homepage Ben´s Bauernhof foe further research on Frienwohnung an Ferien auf dem Bauernhof).

What kind of activities do you prefer? Sightseeing, but what sights? Visiting old towns with half-timbered buildings and fortificated towers? Lots of those arond, and some castels too. Enjoying nature, walking allon the lakeside and the mountains nearby? Or a bicycle rip along the lake? Bicycling is very popular around the lake in Summer, you can also take your bikes on the passenger boats connecting rhe lakeside towns and villages, or on regional trains. Arte you interested in archeitecture? The area from LAke Constance to Ulm is famous for its baroque architecture, mostly churches, do an internet research for "Schwäbische Barockstrasse" or the juwel amongst those gems, "Birnau" ( a baroque church located at the lakeside between Meersburg an Überlingen, fom the outside nice in the landscape, its interior just breathtaking, besides that a catholic church. If you are fond of art, Winterthur in Switzerland has remarkable museums, Basel even better ones. And as there is the small besides teh big, the lovely village of Langenargen rmembers his son Maulbertsch, a known painter in Austria in his time, the late baroque. For further exhibits, do some research on the usuals suspectd; St. Gallen, Bregenz, Friedrichshafen, Meersburg, Überlingen.

There are more places in the Hinterland; Rhine Falls in Schaffhausen, also Zürich and Munich are in reach.
The Danube Valley between Donaueschingen ans Ulm, or Schwarzwald from Donaueschingen to Titisee-Neustadt and further to Freiburg. From Lindau into the Allgäu to Kempten, Füssen and Neuschwanstein Castle. From Friedrichshafen to Aulendorf, Biberach, Schloss Warthausen and further to Ulm and Schelklingen with its Blautopf.

For Culture: Bregenz, Konstanz and St, Gallen have ensemble theaters. Bregens is place of the Bregenzer Festspiele, and there are music performances and events at every place around the lake.

So, it is up to you and your wishes.

hhildebrandt (and everyone else too! :) Thank You!

We are landing in Stuttgart, a city I love. Architecture is high on the list of must sees. We'll start off at the Mercedes Benz Museum and also visit the Staatsgalerie.

You're right about Basel, it's museum heaven. I'm copying your suggestions for Switzerland for another trip. I didn't know about Winterthur.
I loved the Tinguely Museum in Basel (to name one)at the time we were there, they had an exibition with Nikki de St Phalle. :) (please excuse my spelling) unfortunately, Basel won't be on our list this year.

For some reasone we just haven't made it to Bodensee.

This year we are thinking of including Colmar and Strasbourg (basically driving through) on our way up to Heilbronn, Karlsruhe etc. (I liked the museums in Karlsruhe) We'll skip Baden Baden- been there done that and there's better places :)

You're going to keep me busy on google hhildebrandt, thank you so much.

I wanted to go to Sigmaringen but I don't know if it's as important because it's a reconstruct but the surrounding area is beautiful. Last time we were in the area we went to Lictenstein. Now, that was a castle! With it's commanding view.

I guess I won't be giving Ulm the short shrift. We've been debating.

thank you again. Great information from everyone who has been kind enough to respond. gotta love fodorites!

I forgot to answer your questions hildebrandt.

We'll rent a car and stay in small places ferinwohens etc.

Have you been to Burg Hohenzollern? It's another fabulous castle that is a bit off the beaten path. Great restaurant too, right at the castle.

hausfrau, I don't think so but my husband swears we have. This is why one should write a trip report! ;0

You fail to cite ANY interests or dis-interests, but anyway...

you might check out the Esterhazy Palace in Eisenstadt, where Josef Haydn was in residence as a young musician/composer.

Thanks tomboy. It drives me crazy when people don't cite interest too but I wasn't planning to go to Austria. The palace looks lovely and I like the weapon collection.

Basically, I'm interested in art and architecture and not in some vague sort of way that people are when they say that.

One practicality if you decide to stay in Meersburg. When travelling across the lake to Konstanz, we found the car ferry had a much more extensive timetable than the passenger ferry. For the car ferry to Konstanz you need to catch a bus from the port to the town centre - if you don't have a car - takes about 20 min and is easy to do.

Ulm is a place I remember from my german lessons:

in Ulm, und um Ulm, und um Ulm herum.

Thanks for the tip about the ferry. My plan was to park the car for the day we're on the lake. It seemed we could walk. What do you think? Is it handier to have the car with parking and all?

Only a few kilometers outside of Meersburg is Birnau, a lovely Baroque pilgrimage church set next to the lake. A very beautifuly setting.

Thanks bettyk, Birnau looks lovely. And you know I'll have to ask, did your husband take pictures while you were there?
:) (his work really has been some of my fav photography of Germany)

LSky, my DH will be so flattered to hear that you like his photos! The first time we went to Birnau, we were staying in Uberlingen:

http://travel.webshots.com/album/575...PlKyZ?start=60

We went back to Birnau last year when we stayed in Meersburg at Gasthof zum Baeren.

http://travel.webshots.com/album/579...sZFBW?start=12

Our first trip to Meersburg was in 2007, when we also went to Mainau Island. It was gorgeous.

http://travel.webshots.com/album/561...xDcvw?start=36

Sorry - wasn't as clear as I might have been. Both the passenger and car/passenger ferry are only a few steps from the centre of Meersburg but the car/passenger ferry docks about 20min bus ride from Konstanz. We didn't catch it but I believe the passenger ferry docks not far from the railway station in Konstanz.

Konstanz rail station gives ready access to Stein am Rhein, Schaffhausen and other destinations.

I can't comment on whether a car would be easier because we didn't have one but found no problems at all in using public transport - ferries, trains and buses were all fine. In September we spent 5 nights in Meersburg and could easily have stayed longer had time permitted.

Thanks dreamon. No apologies needed :) I can google as well as the next person but it's nice to know what (I'd put that in bold) to google.

Some things it's just nice if someone reminds you that you might need to know.