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BIRTHDAY IN MADRID, followed by CUENCA, VALENCIA AND DENIA... FOCUS ON FOOD
I've been fortunate enough to travel to Spain a few times a year, lately, and I think many of my reports are a bit repetitive. I'll try to discuss some highlights (hope the food falls Into this category as that's the main focus, as usual)
We flew direct from JFK on IBERIA which, for me, tops American every time, although the food fell a bit short on this leg. I like taking the latest flight to Madrid (I think Iberia runs three a day to Spain) so I can arrive and check into my hotel, or at least have a better chance of checking in before the stated check in time. I had written to my hotel, which I love and where I've on my way to becoming a regular, and they told me they would do their best to get us to our room upon arrival. And that's exactly what would have happened--except I ordered a wheelchair for my partner. (He has developed a vascular problem which causes pain when walking and which was supposed to be taken care of before departure but this didn't happen as the hospital "was so sorry but they forgot to slot you in...." So, except for the awful beef cheeks for dinner, the flight was great but, oddly, neither of us got any sleep. Arrive Barajas and, as usual, he waits (about 20 minutes this time) for the wheelchair person. All good so far. Wheelchair person---it's kind of like a convoy--one brings you to a certain indeterminate point in the route and then disappears. You then wait for the next "pusher" to arrive, and the next... All ok so far, we whisk through immigration in a jif. Except we then get led into a glassed-in room and wait for the "sin barreras" AENA bus which is to take us to the baggage claim and from there to the taxi rank. We are the first into what I should call the aquarium due to the expanses of glass. Minutes pass and more pushers arrive with their charges. We wait and wait and wait. One lady from Philadelphia gets panic for she needs to take her chemo pill and there is no water available. (Long discussion about her lymphoma......and how she is relying on her visit to Fatima to put her right). Every few minutes, one of the pushers makes a phone call asking "where is the bus," and after 40 minutes have passed, each one conducts the conversation in a voice that reminded me of a screaming telenovela actress. Lots of "Madre Mias," "Los pasajeros estan en un panico," etc etc. Passengers begin to scream at the pushers, and then at each other. One elderly woman realizes she's left her jacket on the plane and demands to be pushed back because her husband will "not accept this." Now 90 minutes have gone by and one pretty young woman bursts out crying that she has to go to the bathroom. Incredibly, there is no bathroom access for a room full of mostly elderly invalids. That realization starts another round of screaming, with the Spaniards pulling out rosaries and an American man threatening to sue. Finally, after an hour and 45 minutes, with me being very anxious about the location of our suitcases the entire time, we get the word that the bus will be here in seven minutes. Well it wasn't seven, but it was less than 25, Finally, everyone calms down except the passenger who still needed the toilet; she has now joined the would be suer in coming up with legal strategies... OK, we all get lifted into the special bus and travel, no kidding, through various tunnels and along side roads for about 20 minutes until we reach the baggage claim where we.....are listed down to the ground and wait for the next group of pushers to take us inside the terminal to see if by some miracle our bags are anywhere to be found. A miracle worthy of Fatima!! I walk over to the conveyor belt and see. Both of my suitcases, all by themselves, gliding slowly by!! Our very lovely and very last helper hoists us up into a spiffy electric cart, and whizzes us past customs straight out to the taxi rank where NO one is in line!!!!! Get into the taxi (33 euro flat fare to Madrid plus one euro for each bag) and it dawns on me that I am back in Spain. And I start crying!!!! We pull up in front of the little hotel and there are three staff members waiting outside to greet me and wish me Happy Birthday!!!! If I was very before, now I was full out crying! Lots of hugs, lots of chatter about happy they are to meet the partner, how their past months were, and how of course our room has been ready for hours.."We thought something happened and you missed the flight!!" After all the drama, things calm down, and without taking off our plane attire, we both fall flat on our face asleep. Do not wake up until it's time to get ready for dinner. So tired we do not even change our plane clothes!!! One of the best things for me in Madrid is to walk around to various neighborhoods and look at the architecture, the shop windows, the people........while I was thrilled that my partner was able to come with me, I did realize that it would be very different this time, as we would have to take a lot of taxis and I would have to give up all my before and after dinner strolling (with lots of getting lost thrown in). But anyway, he's here with me, in Madrid, on my birthday!!! AND we find a restaurant (rather, Maribel found it, and I take her lead, as usual). And it turns out to be a perfect place to spend my birthday! Perfect! LA CASTELA sits near the NE corner of Retiro Park and as soon as J spots the giant gates of the park he points out that this is the place we got locked into one January night after dinner, now knowing that all but the Atocha gates shut at 10pm sharp. With that, the taxi driver, who has been very chatty for the entire ride, gets really fascinated at the idea of two Americans being locked inside for what looked to be the entire night......(which did not happen, as you may remember from a very early trip report, for a pair of police came to our rescue), so fascinated that he keeps talking about the strange escapade even after we reach our destination! La Castela îș bustling at the bar when we walk in at 8:30 and the back dining room, where I had booked, had every able then by 9:15 or so. The usual mix of families, couples, mixed groups of various ages. surprisingly because this is not unknown to tourists, we did not hear any English spoken although most of the staff knew at least some English and some were just about fluent. This place just has everything you want in a restaurant. Wide range of food including oft-changing specials, solicitous waiters, comfortable seating (at least in the rear dining room).......no need to dress up....just come and enjoy. Suffice to say that this address on Doctor Castelo will see me next time I am in the city. I want to keep this brief, so I will just mention the details of our meal, beginning with a plate of the tiniest and sweetest shrimp I have EVER eaten. I devoured them whole, from head to tail!!! Maribel will tell mw, I hope, the exact name, so Ii can look for them again, but maybe these specimens were so exceptional and not all would be as scrumptious. You could easily eat these raw. A second courtesy dish was a bowl of guiindillas (Basque) long, thin, green peppers, mixed with large black olives. Excellent bread as well!!! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46ce2f58a.jpeg LA CASTELA..carta https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93048b6d0.jpeg LA CASTELA carta; even where not noted, many dishes can be ordered in half portions. I wish I had done this the night!! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54a92bff4.jpeg Those exquisite shrimp https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1fe865e8.jpeg Pepper and olive mix, with shrimp at right https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74af88bbf.jpeg Mangled loaf of excellent bread, and the quintessentially Spanish picos, akin to Italian grissini https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...755622469.jpeg Rear dining room of LA CASTELA about 9pm on a Saturday night https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99305ab39.jpeg Leaving the restaurant about 10pm or so. Taxi ride from hotel to restaurant and back cost us 13 and 15 euro respectively. our bill, with water and one glass of wine (little did I know that birthday cake and cava would be waiting in my room!!!) cost bout 70 euro........incredible value!! |
Other than that long wait, sounds as though you're off to a great start!
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Hahaha, what a crazy beginning.
Last week I got back from an Italy trip with my mom (early 80s), whose health/stamina/walking ability have really sharply declined over the past few years after she and my sister were hit by a reckless driver in another car. Taking my mom on this trip was an eye-opener, and I can totally relate to not being able to "bop around." I was more focused on keeping her vertical and pain-free-ish. On the bright side, when booking, I asked my preferred hotel in Rome for a nice room for my mother because "she will likely spend a lot of time in there." When we checked in, they said, "Oh, you have a private balcony, Signora..." My coffee in the below picture is from outside my mom's room doors to her "balcony." The entire space was hers and hers alone. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40d61b34e.jpeg "balcony" -- more like a gigantic private terrace. |
What a star, but being in Madrid ( and beyond) will surly compensate!
Thx for letting us tpfollow your Spanish adventures. 🍷 |
Happy your significant other was able to join you on this trip. Have a wonderful holiday!
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Oh my Leely I hope you both got to enjoy that space!
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Leely that is a charing story. How kind people can be. I guess "hospitality industry" is the right name in many cases.
I feel silly that I began with that story up front; it was like being in a play with various characters in a confined space, with new actors coming onstage as time went by.....I kept saying to my partner, "I feel as if we are actors in a play.." Anyway, we had only the Sunday in Madrid. Went for lunch at SALA DE DESPIECE; I thought my partner would enjoy seeing a "hip" Madrid restaurant. I liked it a lot in 2023 but think there have been some changes, with the owner expanding and its not being a novelty for me the second go around. I wrote about both my ears on HungryOnion and I'm just going to link those threads so as not to have to type it all again. If you have not been, it's a fun place along Calle Ponzano, known for its strip of small eateries and bars....worth a look. An issue for us was the usual "Sunday in Madrid" problem, as most places are shut all day, some only open for comida and this ws among those. We had a 3:30 booking. It's bar seating on stools with only one large high top table for six. I am going to finish my write-up of the restaurant on the other site so you can read its all there if interested. I was happy that my partner was able to walk a mile back towards the hotel, with my "encouragement." Had I been alone I would have walked there and back, of course. He still refuses to take even a prescribed high-dose Tylenol for his ailments and I am peeved at that, as I make known in my inimitable way. We shall see. So I dropped him back at the pad and went out walking around. Beautiful weather. Every time I pass the lobby I get engaged in a conversation with one of the staff, so It's like being among friends. Did not walk too long..just around Colon, Salamanca shopping area. It's just great being here! I keep looking up at the windows and imagining myself in a nice studio in this area. But what do you do with yourself alone, every day, after the novelty wears off and you have no friends? Go back and talk to my hotel friends? I don't go to museums in NYC as much as I could...(understatement of the year here!). But then what do Ii do in NYC besides walk around, shop for food and cook, and chat a lot with people I meet outside?? Hmmmm. Monday morning we were up early (for us). Collected at 9:35 for a taxi to Chamartin station, where I'd not been before. Lots of construction but it did not impede us. I was amazed at the service provided by Iryo, the Italo-Spanish train company that now competes with Renfe. We were ushered into a waiting area/office, J got his wheelchair, went through security. UH oh...something "bad" in ekscrunchy's bag! Not again!!!!!!!! No beagle this time, but the x-ray spied a pair of scissors I always take with me, along with masking tape to pack purchases. They explained that it's ok to check this in on a plane because the baggage is far from the passengers, but not so on a train. Makes sense! Adios to the cheap Chinese scissors and lesson learned! Then we were taken to the tracks and J was helped onto the train and we took our very comfy seats in a near empty Car #1 for the hour or so ride to Cuenca, with the train traveling as fast as 298 Kim per hour!!!!! Train was super comfortable (88 euro for two "Bistro" class tickets to Cuenca; there are less $$ seats but with less luggage allotment and no meal.). We certainly did not need the breakfast but it was good---beef cheeks much better than Iberia's and I ate the entire plate, with potatoes and string beans, and even a small glass of wine. There is a choice of four meals too!!! Impressive! Reaching Cuenca, same story..."pusher" comes onto the train as we enter station and gets J into a chair, takes all of our luggage, even mine, and whisks us the ticket office to see about a tix to Valencia in two days. You cannot buy IRYO here, only Renfe and their times were not great, so we decide to buy the Iryo tix online the hotel later (Little did I know that that choice would cost us to lose what would have probably been a great lunch in Cuenca....more on that later. Taxi to Parador with taxista offering much information about the town. Parador has a spectacular location facing the old city, across the river. Fall foliage is beginning and the gorge is turning colors..just beautiful, with crisp cool air. The building, a former convent, is glorious. Our room is a suite #109. A few things are scruffy; widow dress not close and screens are torn but it's not anything to worry about....maintanance guy comes immediately when I see that frig is not on....he fixes that asap. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e942e98b4.jpeg IRYO assistance at Charmartin https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10cc35c7b.jpeg Poster showing size of scissors permitted onto train; mine went down the slot https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd66f2bf9.jpeg One of four possible meals in Bistro class tasted better than it looks https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...250f056bb.jpeg Waiting to whisk us to Cuenca; attendant pushing our bags on trolley....."Frecciarossa" is written on the side of the scarlet cars. The sign indicates the final destination, no mention of the stop at Cuenca |
Sorry, forgot to post the link for two meals at SALA DE DESPIECE--one last year and one a few days ago. To read that, scroll down to the 9th post on the thread, from Hungryonion.org:
https://www.hungryonion.org/t/four-d...h-2023/34149/9 |
After checking into the Parador in Cuenca, I set about trying to book my IRYO tix to Valencia. It's very easy to book online, and since they have no ticket office in Cuenca, that's the only option. Well, I managed to book two seats in the Bistro Infinita class for Wednesday. All good, but since I have no printer, Ii have to use the one at the Parador. No problem, front desk guy tells me to just e-mail them my confirmation and he will print out the tix. Great! All this is taking place around 3pm or so.
I go downstairs a while later and he tells me that I I've sent him only one ticket, not the two I booked and paid for. We check my e-mailon my phone, and indeed, they have sent only one ticket, and not MINE!!!! He tries and tries and tells me the only option is to phone customer service but to prepare to wait while for them to answer. He asks me to bring down my laptop which I do. Looks like there is only one ticket sent. He asks if he can use my laptop, presses many, many keys..to applications...to other things..I have no idea what he is doing. After about 10 minutes, he sends himself an e-mail and lo and behold..there are TWO tickets showing up, which he duly prints out. What is the world happened..who knows, but I have my tickets. But oh, it's 4:15 and all along I have forgotten that we have a table booked for 3:30 at Nazareno y Oro, a well-regarded asador (roast restaurant, meaning mostly meat). I was REALLY looking forward to my chance for some roast baby lamb, or suckling pig, and maybe a garlic soup. (The food here is VERY DIFFERENT than that of Madrid. Incredible how everything changes in a relatively few miles! I ask him to phone the restaurant--maybe we can sneak in late. He raises his eyebrows at me but he does call and it sounds like they laugh him off the phone! Well, not very bright of me to even ask but this is Sunday and I am now worried. I then proceed to give him names of what seems like 20 restaurants but was probably only ten. Nothing open. NOTHING!!!! I'm sad, and I ask about the food here at the Parador. He makes a slight face but it was easy to interpret the he was not a tremendous fan. What is he going to say--he works here! But hey, we don't have much choice.....I did bring some cheese and ham from breakfast in Madrid but we cannot both have that for dinner........not when we are in Spain, anyway....too .much to sample and too little time. So, we have dinner at the parador in their absolutely glorious high-ceilinged beamed dining room, hung with gorgeous heavy, multi-armed chandeliers that cast a beautiful golden light on the long dining room. We are one of about eight tables taken when we walk in and a couple of other tables get filled while we eat. There are items on this menu that befuddle me. It's Conquense food. Food from Cuenca!!! This is getting very interesting. I have to use my phone quite a bit to understand what is on the menu and there are several dishes that I refuse to translate to my dining partner. If he does not like shellfish and a number of other dishes, what will he think of ingredients like pig's liver combined with "products of the. hunt??" (Morteuruelo). Well, here is how the Cuenca tourist board describes this quintessential local dish: "hot pate made from pig liver and game meat, formerly made by shepherds where today it is a sophisticated tapa perfect for regaining strength after a long day" Will he cringe if I tell him that zarajos are marinated lamb intestines roasted on a stick???? I really want to try these, but I want other things as well, so I soften the description a bit and we end up ordering both! Thumbs down on the morteruelo but an enthusiastic "si" to the zarajos which, surprisingly, he loves. (I am so happy to share part of my portion) I love the soup of pureed leeks and pears, and he does, too. The croquetas de jamon are excellent. I was disappointed that the roast young lamb was not going to be crispy outside but ordered it anyway. Quite a bit of fat but super tasty meat on two large portions of shoulder of which I could finish only a quarter, if that. Service was very solicitous and very, very friendly and, despite my fears, we had an interesting dinner for 77 euro, and it was nice to just be able to go upstairs to our room afterwards. (Photos to come) |
If he does not like shellfish and a number of other dishes, what will he think of ingredients like pig's liver combined with "products of the. hunt??"
Your report is cracking me up. Thank you! |
Originally Posted by Leely2
(Post 17612895)
If he does not like shellfish and a number of other dishes, what will he think of ingredients like pig's liver combined with "products of the. hunt??"
Your report is cracking me up. Thank you! Ha..I also "forgot" to mention the partridge and its liver, the hare, and other tasty tidbits!! https://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/morteruelo |
Loving your report.
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It really lifts me to learn that people are reading.
I want to post more photos but, as usual, they are taking days to migrate to my laptop, so please forgive. We had a pleasant dinner last night in Cuenca, at EL FIGON DE HUECAR, where we were the only diners. They let a new (Mallorquin) employee take care of us, and we had so much fun. Just watching him try to open a bottle of wine had me stifling a laugh. I later asked him what wine it was, as I liked it, and he admitted that he knew less about wine than he knew about poodles! Adorable! I will wait for the photos so I can comment on the dinner. I must say that Cuenca is MUCH larger than I imagined. The casco antiguo is just a tiny part of the city. We learned from one of our taxi drivers (7 euro flat rate within the city; 12 euro to the train station; learned so much for chatting with them on our drives) that the old town is all but deserted as far as residents. Only a few older people remain, so he told us, and the population is diminishing every year. But I did see a few young people (about ten) out and about at night. With all that beautiful architecture, one would imagine that foreigners would snap it up and renovate. But again, how much does the city offer as far as full time living; most expats would rather be on the coast or in a city, I imagine, but let's wait until Maribel weighs in. There are so many gorgeous inland towns that are all but deserted. (I think Cuenca is more of a city than a town..there is a bustling "new" part, with traffic, and lots of stores, etc. I did not know this until we drove through after dinner last night and, again, this morning, en route to the train station. I do think that we should have stayed one night, instead of two. BTW..the train station is a glorious piece of architecture named for the Philipine-born-artist, Fernando Zobel. I saw a bit of his work in the contemporary art museum (tiny; free) installed in one of the three casa colgadas (hanging houses) that are a big feature on tourist posters. Who knew that there are only three of these houses, and the wooden balconies were added in the 1920s!!!? But the train station really is a glorious work of contemporary art. Sparkling clean, and with abundant assistance to travelers. We departed today on the IRYO for Valencia, where we are now ensconced in the ONLY YOU. Gracias, Maribel!!!!! But I hesitate to write more without the photos, so... |
Happy Birthday Eks! I'm enjoying reading and traveling vicariously with you. Your summaries are as entertaining as they are informative. Thank you!
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I’ve been following along, too, always enjoy your reports and it’s great you created a holiday with someone who has limited mobility.
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I'm happy that you did enjoy el Figón del Huécar.
Yes, Cuenca, particularly the old quarter, is a victim of the España despoblada", as are many villages in Aragón. I´m happy that you ventured to the Museo de Arte Abstracto and enjoyed the paintings of native Fernando Zòbel, Tapiès, Chillida, Oteiza (Basque) and contemporaries. Feliz cumpleaños! |
I'm reading! And enjoying!
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Eks,
We followed you by 2 days (as usual!!!) at La Castela. Don't have photos right now, but I have to say that for the price to quality ratio (in Spanish the RCP), this is the best place in town!! We arrived at 8:30 and were the first to be seated and by 9:30 all the tables in the surprisingly large dining room, covering the inside of both bars, were taken, this being in Tuesday night in November. Not a word of English spoken but the table next to ours, a table of 8, were Portuguese speaking, and the rest all Spanish, as far as we could hear. We were seated in front of the beautiful mural of the tapas bar area covering the entire wall. Lovely, burgundy tableclothed, well-spaced tables in this hugely popular dining space. Very, very lively and loud on a Tuesday night! Because our amuse bouche wasn't shrimp, I couldn't ask ascertain for certain that question that you asked me on HO (gambas versus quisquillas, but the servers did insist that they're gambas), since our tapas on the house was a large portion of black olives with piparras (those Navarran picked peppers), followed by a warm amuse bouche of crema de verduras, a silkily vegetable purée topped with a fried crouton that we had today at la Raquetista en La Habana. We ordered the medley of habitas (baby limas), trigueros (baby asparagus) and two poached eggs as a first course, and the chipirones encebollados (huge!!!-tender squid with braised onions, a dish that could have fed 4) as a second, and for dessert, the sorbete de limón al cava, the limon sorbet, which could easily have fed two, although it was a half portion. And the "on the house", complimentary digestif (chupito)-- husband had his usual pacharán from Navarra, and I had my usual creme de orujo from Asturias, along with chocolates (like the complimentary digestive and chocolates served at La Catapa). Also, here one can order a carafe of agua del grifo, Madrid water, no need to order bottled water. All of our neighboring tables had it. What I love about La Castela, including its incredible price to quality ratio, is the wonderful, super professional, very kind and attentive Southeast Asian staff, the warm welcome, the liveliness and especially the price! All of the four Morán family restaurants in the Retiro district, La Castela, Casteldos, La Montería and La Monte these are an extraordinary dining value! About "morteruelo conquense", not my favorite at all, my first (late) husband's family being from Cuenca, and I got served a lot of it, it's very much an acquired taste dish! As is "atascaburras". Here's a recipe, https://www.directoalpaladar.com/recetas-de-carnes-y-aves/receta-morteruelo-cuenca-clasico-manchego-para-untar-disfrutar-a-base-carne Just a note about the taxi fare from Barajas, as I just read in depth your arrival notes. There should have been NO CHARGE for the luggage carried in the trunk, not one euro per bag. No luggage charge is allowed, as far as I know, in the 33 euro fare from Barajas to center city (unless that's recently changed). |
Maribel, I enjoyed pacharan when I was in Madrid, but unfortunately have been unable to find it in the US.
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Maribel, I agree 100% about LA CASTELA! I never would have found it without you.
SusanP: I have a drink that might supplant limoncello: Vermouth with orange flavor!!!!! II would bring some home with me but not sure it is worth the trouble because I would finish it in no time! https://carmeleta.com/en/tienda-vermouths/ Speaking of purchases, my FIRST shopping stop in Valencia was FRiNSA, conservas from Galicia. Lovely shop in Valencia.....I bought a dozen cans of ventresca and the bonus is that they are packed in the just-pressed olive oil of the season. I willl probably return for more before we leave here. Maribel, I took your advice and clipped a night from Denia, so we will come back to this hotel in Valencia for our last night before our flight home...I may have already written this, please forgive if so...... I am so behind in this report; still waiting for my photos to migrate to laptop, sometimes it takes days. Excellent dinner at Raussell..what a comfortable, lovely no frills spot with great staff and food! Will describe if I ever get the photos. The funny thing is that we met an American (!!) couple at the parador in Cuenca who were driving to Valencia yesterday while we were taking the train. We arranged to have dinner with them at Raussell..... HA, gives my partner a break from my endless chatter. Turns out that I could not get a word in--good for partner, maybe but oh, my, did that man talk a LOT about himself and his business and his travels.....it was like An interview, "Have you both been to Argentina?" "Yes, I said". "But I bet you have not been to Chile!!!" "Right; we planned two trips but had to cancel...." "OH...well, here are my (about 100) photos of this fabulous hotel we stayed at......." Me: "Great!!!" He: "We've also been to Asia!!!" Me: "Great!!!" He: "Here are my photos from Tokyo...it's such an amazing place, you need to go there!!" Me: "yes we loved it also." He: "Here are the photos: Me, "I'd love to see them but. you know these glasses are so bad, it's so hard for me to squint to see photos on your phone....." Meanwhile, his lovely wife (she and I had both been in Valencia during the moon landings of 1969!!). What are the chances of that?? Unfortunately she was not allowed to get word in!!!!! On and on it went.....we sure had a good laugh about this after dinner!!!!! |
Here's a recipe for a homemade pacharan if you forgot to buy it in Spain. It is really easy to make. Fill in one litre bottle up 1/5 or 1,5/5 of it's capacity with sloes (fruit) and fill the botlle with aniseed flavored alcohol. Close the bottle. Put the bottle upright in a dark place (a box, a cupboard) and move the bottle gently every three to four days to release the flavor of the sloes. Do this during three months and separete the liquid of the remainings of the fruit. The liquid can be filtered through a filter just to avoid the fruit sediment to create bitterness in the final liquor. Drink fridge cold, with or without ice cubes. Do not mix with soft drinks or juices.
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Originally Posted by SusanP
(Post 17613350)
Maribel, I enjoyed pacharan when I was in Madrid, but unfortunately have been unable to find it in the US.
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That orange vermouth sounds good! 😁
Is it sweet? |
Susan. Yes..sweet-ish, but not overpowering, And I think the alcohol content is 15%.
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I finally got my photos onto my laptop so will continue with some photos of Cuenca before I get to Valencia.
We stayed for two nights at the parador in Cuenca which is a treat in itself. A couple of things were not in order--screens torn and one window broken but they sent4 someone to fix these immediately. Although it is a bit of a walk for someone with mobility issues, from the parador to the cask antigun, I would stay there again, BUT I might stay only one night in Cuenca if I were pressed for time, which we were not. One of our taxi drivers told us that the Parador was always full, year round--with foreigners and Spanish people "con dinero." No doubt true but the price was not out of line at all and we were happy to be there. As I mentioned, above, we met one couple from California. There was a Japanese couple stayng there and two Scandinavian women but all other guests spoke Spanish. I walked over the iron bridge, said to reflect the influence of Gustav Eiffel, a few times to the Plaza Mayor and beyond but the old city was really deserted now in late November. The Museum of Abstract Art was tiny but liked it a lot; the floors above the ground floor were roped off so what I viewed was likely a fraction of their collection. Entrance is free. Please read about Fernando Zobel, the Filipino/Spanish artist, architect and businessman who had a large influence on the city and also designed the striking train station, a rectangular structure crafted of rusted metal with pierced cutouts. He founded the museum and had a large influence on Cuenca itself https://fernandozobel.eshttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19fefda47.jpeg Abstract art museum--gift shop was larger than the exhibit area but I recommend free entry https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0fd858c7.jpeg Museum https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d407d2557.jpeg Cuenca train station, in the countryside, a 12 euro taxi ride from the Parador; so clean and efficient with a nice food and wine shop inside; we took the IRYO train to here from Madrid, and again from Cuenca to Valencia two days later. For aficionados of architecture I think that the station would be an essential sight; that rusted metal reminded me of our late neighbor, Richard Serra who has an exhibit in the Bilbao Guggenheim |
Two dinners in Cuenca; I already mentioned the first dinner, at the Parador, and so far the pics of the food have not come through. I would like to add the photos of the zarajo and the morteruelo. Below is a photo of the dining room and some of the parador itself, interiors and from the old city, plus a few of Cuenca itself:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0cf5eaae0.jpeg The old city from the Parador side of the "river" with the iron bridge in the foreground; there is also a zipline, the longest in Europe, that you can take to traverse the gorge I might have tried....but did not! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52879b8b3.jpeg Glorious Parador dining room where we had one dinner https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41776c562.jpeg Migas for breakfast, with poached egg (egg is usually fried); I first tried migas years ago in Caceres and sometimes make (my own, altered) version, at home, with kale or spinach. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b574b378.jpeg The famous hanging houses of Cuenca; there are (only three) of these, brought back from dilapidation in the 1920s by the town, when the wood balconies were added (I had believed the balconies to be much older!) https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f8ba28d8.jpeg View of the Hoz de Huecar (gorge of the Huecar river) from the Parador; fall foliage was beautiful as colors were beginning to appear; climate was cool and fresh https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b85ab433d.jpeg Parador hallway enclosing the courtyard https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e93fc571.jpeg Casco Antiguo at night--it was chilly and I was wearing only a cotton shirt and vest---ooohh..waiting for taxi made us very cold! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8ff7e5bdf.jpeg Cuenca cathedral https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...296e29758.jpeg Plaza Mayor Finishing up Cuenca portion with a good dinner at EL FIGON DE HUECAR. I already discussed this a bit up above, but here are a few photos. It is a good restaurant and they treated us very kindly. For 2 euro extra you can book a table on the outdoor terrace which has great views but it was too cold in November. (I have not heard before of charging extra for a seat on a terrace but there you have it). I do not know how they remain in business with only us dining in November, but I wish them well. They offer a nice set dinner for about 32 euro; my partner chose that (appetizer, main course, desserts, bread, water and 1/4 carafe which amounted to one glass of wine; wine was good but server had no idea of its name or any details and I did not press as he was wobbly as it was..) So here are a few pics of the sleek contemporary interior and a few dishes: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44f774924.jpeg Amuse of salmorejo was outstanding. I think to the liberal use of garlic; I wish I had their recipe. This was not on the menu. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8cfbf1318.jpeg Oh how I tried to stifle a laugh as he struggled with opening the wine.....cork broke into pieces but he persisted! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb4fb838a.jpeg Lovely oinion soup, light with a chicken stock base. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...566cca5c1.jpeg Lamb chops; there is a lot of asparagus on restaurant menus so I imagine they have at least two harvests a year. These were very nice, not as good as those at La Castela in Madrid however. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...745fe618e.jpeg Perplexed diner eyeing his glazed pork cheeks, which he liked very much. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85f1ad858.jpeg Sleek interior of EL FIGON DE HUECAR in Cuenca; they have some very interesting contemporary art on the walls that I would have liked to view more closely. Note the empty dining room on a Tuesday night in November. What do they do with all that unused food???? The fish???? |
We took the IRYO train to Valencia on Tuesday, after two nights in Madrid and two in Cuenca. As usual, the train was excellent; we were able to see much damage from the DANA flooding, but all along the route close to Valencia, many bulldozers and trucks were working in the cleanup. Still, there was quite a lot of standing water and a lot of debris, most of which had been cleared and piled up waiting to be taken away. The train arrived bout 15 minutes late, coming from Madrid, so we consequently were a bit late arriving in Valencia's train station, Joaquin Sorolla. Interesting that both the Cuenca and Valencia stations bear the name of local artists.
We were again collected inside the train, helped with the luggage, and provided with a wheelchair for my partner. Is there such a service in the US on Amtrak? I don't know but this was incredible. We took a taxi ride of about 12 euro to our hotel, ONLY YOU. What a hotel! I imagine we are the oldest guests in the place, and the average age must be about 28 for the guests and probably younger for the staff, almost all of those we spoke to (staff) hail from elsewhere in Spain or, more commonly, from Argentina. They are absolutely top notch h, down to the housekeeping staff, which appears to be largely Colombian. Incredibly interesting to talk to these lovely young people and to hear some of their stories. Inevitably, people ask where we come from and, also inevitably, the first word out of their mouths when we tell them (New York City) is "WOW!!!" The hotel is heavy on design and is, indeed, smashingly sharp in contemporary style from the wood-paneling on then walls painted a high-gloss deep marine blue with green tinge to the porcelain floor tiles in bedroom--herringbone parquet, to the porcelain faux marble bathroom and bedroom walls, aged gold-tone fixtures......created by a well-known Catalan designer whose name I am too lazy to look up. We were offered an upgrade (had to sign a paper giving credit to the front desk person saying that he had completed the "upsell" for the guest!) from our originally booked double room to a suite with living room, bathroom and bedroom. Bathtub in the space between the two--out in the open near one of the desks! Its really all flash but its works very well and the staff makes this place. Where else is an incoming guest offered a bouquet of fresh flowers by the Guest Manager, Jose Enrique, who is quite the dapper charmer. (Each day so far I have received gifts brought to the door; yesterday was a tray of macarons with a bottle of MISTELA, which has now supplanted orange vermouth as my favorite Valencia alcoholic drink! (Much better than the agua de Valencia that I had yesterday (morning!) at the Mercart Central; another day it was a bottle of cava with more sweet treats. Jose Enrique and I have a plan--he speaks to me only in Valencian, which is surprisingly easy to understand and I response in Castellano. This guy's presence does much for the hotel. I must get a photo of him to post. Anyway, we are very happy here but I must report that even the most basic room is more expensive than the hotel we stay at in Madrid--400 euro-plus on our dates!!!!! But with this staff and the style of the place, not to mention one of the most elaborate hotel breakfasts I've had outside Asia, I feel it's money well spent if you can manage this. I'lll never forget this hotel! There's quite an international crowd, I imagine 80% Spaniards but also guests from China, England, Poland, and the US although only a few of the latter. But all staff seem to be at minimum fairly fluent in English, most of them much more than fairly fluent, and go out of the way to be of help; it is really impressive, so far. Any wish seem to be granted with a smile. The day of arrival we unpacked and got settled (I am much slower these days) and finally went for dinner at Raussel with the couple we met in Cuenca, which I described, above. Indeed, there was a long line for the take-out food (ask MDN!!). The restaurant is a taxi ride form the hotel and I think th price was about 7 euro each way. I will not describe the meal as we may return tonight, except to say it is a comfortable fairly traditional place, not too creative which is just fine for me. But let's wait to see if we go back tonight; I have a table booked. I do find that both of us are much less energetic (he much less than me) than in past years; this is the first trip where I am beginning to feel my age, with all the related aches and pains. My partner has it a lot worse but he did agree to take ONE Tylenol yesterday and again, this morning, so that's progress. I also take them before I set off but of course I take double the amount, along with an occasional Celebrex. I also find myself much more aware of curbs and uneven streets that I would. have been a few years ago. Fear of falling, indeed! I'm kind of terrified by all this but hey, I'm here, so all is good. I will try to keep this up to date, and current but I want to mention one thing that happened this morning. We visited the fantabulous "Sistine Chapel of Valencia," the church of San Nicolas de Bari whose name will of course be familiar to those here who have visited the Puglian capital. I will discuss its splendor later on. We sat down in the pews at the end of the audio tour to take in the main altar and organ, and then proceeded on the last bit of the tour. We handed in our audio guides (the audio tour is exceptionally great, in English) and proceeded to leave the church. I got to the street outside and realize that my handbag was not on my shoulder. Panic is an understatement--I could feel my heart beating. No passports inside but my ATM card and two credit cards inside my beloved Loewe handbag, purchased only last March. I ran back inside, retracing my steps and alerting one of the exceptionally lovely staff members. Where had I been sitting??? Here, no. Here, no....I was so engrossed in the audio guide that I forgot but I knew I was near the front. Finally, YES!!!!!!! It's there, sitting next to a young boy. "Por favor, pasame mi bolsa, por favor...." YES! Bag is there, wallet is inside and all looks fine. (There was no cash. inside but I could not remember if there had been any when I left the hotel; if anything, there would have been less than 50 euro so I was past caring about missing cash if, indeed, any was missing. (Probably, as I doubt I would have left the hotel with none, but I don't care...I got the bag and credit cards back... So that's the little tidbit from today, likely of interest to no one but I thought I'd mention it. When the staff learned that all was well, two of them commented "Good thing you were not in Barcelona, or France" (???). They also told me to be especially careful with my bag In museums as they knew of many thefts that took place inside. Will continue with Raussell, Bar Central, Llisa Negra and La Sastreria later on. Restaurants still to be visited include Napicol, Ca Pepico, the latter both out of the city, and Casa Montana where we stopped inlets night for a peek--looks superb. |
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I am going to be shamelessly lazy here and copy the post I made on HungryOnion about our Sunday paella lunch today in a small village just north of the city, located in the "Huerta Nord" are, just off the main highway to Barcelona and a 20euro and 20 minute taxi ride away from our hotel. Unfortunately, I forgot my phone and am kicking myself because I really, really wanted to take photos, as this was one of the few "real paella" experiences I've ever had.
NAPICOL Our latest meal was lunch this afternoon and since I forgot to bring my phone, I do not have photos so will comment on this now before I forget the details. (Thanks to TigerJohn for lead on this excellent Sunday meal) We are staying in a hotel in the center city, so took a taxi (20 euro) to Alqueria La Roca/Meliana. The restaurant is across t he street from the train station, where trains arrive from Valencia Nord station, so that would be the more economical way to get here from the city. I booked several weeks ahead and even then, was put on the waiting list but within a day the booking came through for Sunday at 3:30, the last time slot. Since my partner does not eat shellfish, I ordered the Paella Valenciana. By the way, the restaurant takes its name not from the surname of the owner, which I had assumed, but from the vegetable which translates from Valenciano to English as kohlrabi. (At least this is what I found online and it looks to be true, although I forgot to ask) The taxi ride took only about 20 minutes, most of which took us along the main highway linking Valencia with Barcelona to the north. Great roads and the place would be simple to find if. one has a car. Napicol has an unassuming entrance along what looks to be the main street of the small town. There is a lovely enclosed outdoor space with orange and olive trees, and a large, white indoor dining area. Every table was filled when we arrived at 3:30 on the dot. The owner is omnipresent and very welcoming to us, as was the entirely female wait staff.`. Menu is by QR code but since I had forgotten my phone (really sorry I could not take photos of this restaurant) it was recited orally. I’ve only had true paella twice. One was years ago, at La Matandeta in La Albufuera south of the city, and I was not pleased with their rendition, nor were my two companions, one of who lived in Valencia, and the other being last week at Llisa Negra. So this was a pretty novel experience for me. Orally recited entrances included grilled or fried calamari, hake croquettes, a few things I’ve forgotten already, AND: Berberechos. These cockles were, hands down, the best I have ever had and, happily, I had the entire portion to myself. So great was the sauce, that I told the owner he ought to sell it as a sopa. This might be the best single plate I’ve had on our entire trip so far. The sauce was made of: butter tarragon (I have never seen an herb so finely minced!) shallot chicken stock cava and: a small amount of nata, or cream I cannot convey how delicious this was and mopped up all of the sauce with the excellent pan de Cristal, served in a basket, already oiled. Also among the best breads we’ve had so far. I had to hold myself back from devouring my half of the entire basket. To drink we ordered only water and sweet red vermut which the server confirmed was a popular “palate opener” in Valencia. (I know next to nothing about vermouth but the hotel mini bar has been replenished every day after I consume my daily allotment of this beverage, this version flavored with orange and made in or near Valencia. The paella Valencia: I was overjoyed when the giant pan was set on the table, and we started to dig in. There was less socarrat than I had hoped, but I did manage to scoop out what was there and oh, my, this was excellent. The paella had these ingredients: Duck, rabbit, minuscule snails which I dug out with the spear the held the olives in the vermouth, lima beans, and flat green broad beans. I guess it’s not surprising that the best ingredient of all was the rice and, second, the broad beans. I was very surprised that there was no chicken but confirmed this with the server. The price of the paella was 45 euro; the berberechos were 20euro. Coca pan Cristal: 5.50. Total price with the drinks: 78.30euro. Absolutely, smashingly worth the price not only for the food but for the atmosphere of the place which, as I mentioned, was wonderful; I did not hear any English spoken and most tables were occupied by what appeared to be couples and family groups with a l generations represented. Absolutely worth the taxi fare! Tomorrow I will bring my phone when we head for another lunch, also paella but a different type and also pre-ordered when I booked the table, a few steps away at CA PEPICO! |
Cafe Murillo in Madrid, near the Prado, charged 10% extra to sit outside. I also had never run into that, and haven't since. It was a hot day in early May, so I didn't mind too much, and the lunch was delicious!
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And I can very much understand the slowing down (although I was never fast!) and more aches and pains. In the past, I almost never took a taxi. The last few years I might take a couple, taking one to my furthest point for the day and working my way back. For trips next year, for the first time, I have a "taxi" category in my budget!
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Oh, SusanP, I know! Even a few years ago, in Madrid no less, I never took taxis, even from my hotel in Almagro to Retiro, east side of park.
Now I am traveling with my partner who can walk about a couple of blocks without pain, but even I am popping Tylenol before I leave the hotel if I know I'm going to walk. I'm surely glad we are still traveling, though!!! At least taxis are not so expensive as they are in New York!!! Yesterday, Sunday morning, before our excursion outside the city to Napicol for paella, we visited a FANTASTIC new museum here in the center of Valencia. I believe it opened last year. This is the CENTRO DE ARTE HORTENSIA HERRERO, funded by a Valencian businesswoman of the same name. The structure is a 17th Century palace located inside the former walls of the Muslim Medina and, later, the barrio Judio of Valencia. It's built on the fragments of a 'Roman "circus." One of the delights is that they preserved much of the past, which is visible in the Roman fragments in the basement, visible through a glass area in the floor, and the wooden ceiling beams of the palace. But the art!!! Oh, my!!! It's contemporary, with quite a few names that I recognized, and others who are quite celebrated. Names like Joan Miro, David Hockney, Anselm Keifer, Eduardo Chillida, and Juan Genoves. (I'd never heard of the last artist but I certainly will seek out his works from now on as I thought them smashing!!) I highly recommend this museum, open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 8pm and on Sundays until 2pm. Price is 10 euro on the spot, half price for "retired" persons. It's not all that large but we spent about two hours there; they have seats for those whose energy is flagging (not me, at least then!!) The centerpiece is a light tunnel by Olafur Eliasssson which has to be experienced to believe (I figured out the secret of the changing colors, you surley will as well). But as I said, Juan Genoves was a revelation to me, as were the works by Anselm Kiefer. (Either the Hockney was deftly hidden or I am directionally challenged because I could not find any works by the British artist. But no matter. I will remember this museum for a long time and urge people to visit. It makes a good counterpart to the ceramics museum, which we had visited a few days before). I will post some of my photos, but do go on their website to get more information. It is formally named THE PALACE OF CONTEMPORARY ART. Tickets can be purchased online which I recommend as there is a 1 euro discount, and they sell only a number of tickets per day. (Only ten walk-ins were allowed yesterday; the place was crowded but not. unbearably so, with almost all visitors having bought their tix online here:) https://www.cahh.es/en/ I will post the photos in parts so I do not make a mistake and lose any! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6aa370d7a.jpeg Entrance to the Palace of Contemporary Art, Hortensia Herrero, Valencia city center https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90f60d58d.jpeg Sala #1; I did not write down the name of the artist but you can already get an idea of what is to come. The next pics will depict some of my favorite works but there are many, many more and I would have spent a lot more time if I had been alone. |
More photos from the Museum of Contemporary Art in Valencia; CENTRO DE ARTE HORTENSIA HERRERO; these were a few of my favorite works:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...daf450e12.jpeg Anselm Kiefer, one in a room devoted to his works of paint and lead; see below https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9ebbbe30.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...257729434.jpeg Spectacular tunnel of light by Olafur Eliasson, one of several site-specific works; look who you can spot up ahead with his cane! Hint: It's not Eliasson! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66c25dde4.jpeg The panes of light change color when you walk to and from inside this Danish Artist's tunnel; it's captivating and probably the signature work of the collection, assembled by businesswoman Hortensia Herrero, a native of Valencia, who renovated the palace and turned it into this museum https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efa5ef0bf.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1785202af.jpeg The Eliasson tunnel from the other side, peer into it from there and you see only black panes of a synthetic material https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81e711996.jpeg Detail of 3-D work by Spanish Artist Juan Genoves; the entire work is pictured, below; close up they do not look like figures, but step a few steps back and it all changes https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb9754a5c.jpeg Juan Genoves. one of my favorites in the museum https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ae20bac26.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d7c51814.jpeg These figures are three-dimensional; crafted of paint, cloth and bits and bobs of unexpected materials; I spent a half-hour looking at this and the other, round, work of his, above....peering close-up and looking from a few feet away.....loved this! Further signs of modern times spotted in Valencia: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ea98dcc9.jpeg Look at the nails of my very young dining companion at BAR CENTRAL in Valencia's MERCAT CENTRAL; she is traveling solo through Spain and hails from Wuhan....more adorable I've not seen often! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...187ab8a95.jpeg Sign beckons for. the typical Valencian "brunch" https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba82fc972.jpeg There was very little graffiti in Valencia but I did spot this yesterday https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9eb69684.jpeg Crowd outside our hotel on a Saturday night. Disco still lives in Valencia, leather hot pants and mini-skirts abound; day and night the hotel is a hangout for persons who are, let's say, younger than us--by a few decades!!! Almost every single female, and they far outnumbered the men, was clad in black. Despite the crowds outside, our street-facing room received no street noise even at peak party time. From being full to the gills on the weekend, our hotel on Monday seemed almost empty. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f0bcd731.jpeg Contemporary sadness...and anger at local politicians , also represented by street graffiti that I spotted Time travel, back to the 4th Century era of Saint Nicolas, known widely as San Nicolo di Bari. This church, dedicated to him, is known as the "Sistine Chapel of Valencia," a moniker that fits well, I believe. His remains rest in the Cathedral di San Nicola in the Puglian capital of Bari, where they were transported for safety during the Moorish occupation of Spain. He is the guardian of childhood and the family, and the advocate in cases of financial need. We spent about two hours here, gawking and listening to the excellent audio guide, available in English. Here is where I left my handbag on a pew, and where it remained 20 minutes after I left the church. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3ac0b16d.jpeg My photos do scant justice to the glory of this church https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29ff3a71c.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c235b4e19.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7459b46be.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e360f2bd4.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...831b2ac06.jpeg Note the resemblance to Byzantine religious painting; too my breath away for lack of better words https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07684829e.jpeg Nuestra Señora del Perpetuo Socorro, patron saint of medical professionals; see photo, above, which is one of my favorite paintings here Who carved these works? How many and how long did painters lay on their backs to adorn the ceilings? I kept thinking of the artidsansd whose hands wrought this gorgeous place. Who were they? How were they paid and by whom? These questions kept occurring to me as I wandering around, gazing at all of this centuries-old art in so many different mediums. |
Monday afternoon we had our third Valencia rice experience when we taxied (17 euro) once again to the little rural village, Meliana, for the second time in two days, to experience a paella (or should I say "Arroz seco, as did the owner when I phoned to book my rice a day ahead of our visit).
CA PEPICO is a "must" for anyone seeking great Valenciano food, including rice but also including many other dishes, many of which change daily adoring to market and season. I't's a long-running family place that takes its name from the father of the current owner, whose name was Pepico and was apparently a legend in the town and much loved. He passed last winter and the restaurant ice now in the hands of his son, Pepe and his (Pepe's) wife who runs the kitchen. This place just oozes warmth! We were heartily welcomed into the bright, white rustic interior which was almost filled on a Monday afternoon. Pepe immediately rushed over to welcome us and he and his staff could not have been any more enthusiastic that these two New Yorkers had come to visit! Service was absolutely top notch!! There is a semi-permanent carta and a "fuera de carta" list of specials that change every day. When they told me that artichokes were available for the first time this season, I did not hesitate in ordered them and they might have been the best I've ever had---sauteed and salted in a way that you could taste every grain of salt against the crisped edges and the soft interior of the choke hearts. Incredible I also had a half order of the tiniest clams: Tallerines. Good but not exceptional because they lacked the sauce that Naapicol had steeped their berberechos in yesterday, the sauce that I could, and did, drink with a spoon. We ordered, in advance, the duck paella with roverello and trumpets de muerte mushrooms. This paella had far more meat and vegetables atop the rice than the Paella Valenciana we had enjoyed the previous day at NAPICOL. Both place were wonderful but I give the slight edge to the rice at CA PEPICO. We were gifted a lovely ensaladilla before the meal, and a square of cake and some chocolates, and glasses of Mestela to close. At about 70 euro with one extra glass of Mestela and water and bread, I thought this place to be an excellent value and I highly recommend taking an afternoon to visit, either by taxi or train from Valencia Nord station. You can walk to both this restaurant, and to NAPICOL, from the station. I spent a LOT of time chatting with Pepe, the owner, who insisted on having his photo taken with me. While posing, I noticed an old framed photo on the wall of Pepico, his father, driving his donkey driven wooden cart along the street in front of his restaurant. Just like in a film set, a similar scene unfolded when we went outside too await our return taxi: Clopping down the street was a festooned horse drawing the same type of wooden cart and driven by a local farmer.....I felt as if we were in a film!!! We waited for our taxi on a wooden bench dedicated to Pepico, with his photo as Ann old man, holding a bottle of wine and a cigarette, with a plaque that tells today's customer's that this was Pepico's favorite spot to sit down and have a smoke while taking break from the restaurant. One lunch here and we felt part of the family, with everyone coming outside to bid us "Adios" as we, ruefully, departed to return to Valencia city. Fifteen minutes outside the city and you are in another world. I would not miss this restaurant if you visit enchanting Valencia. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b63126594.jpeg Main Street of Alqueria La Roca/Meliana with unassuming front of restaurant at right https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f0cdf488.jpeg Front dining room; one of two https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa8ce684d.jpeg Main carta https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9317fc34c.jpeg Specials which change daily https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08b36d8f6.jpeg First artichokes of the season and maybe the best of my life!! The technique that they used to salt them resulted in a miracle in my mouth! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d8d68fa8.jpeg Tallerines, tiny clams, but no sauce Photos of duck paella to come: |
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Paella of duck with two types of mushrooms at the wonderful CA PEPICO, outside the city of Valencia https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5667ef550.jpeg Photo of the late Pepico on the outdoor bench where he would rest, imbibe, and smoke https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5bd5f988.jpeg Pepico, framed atop the bar; the entire restaurant feels imbued with his spirit https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd9e74da2.jpeg Pepe, son of Pepico and, with his wife, the current owner. One of the most welcoming restauranteurs I've met.......smiles on every face here. He asked me if I would post with him for a pic. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40379eeb9.jpeg Past comes to life outside the restaurant; Pepico's wooden cart, much like this one, sits high on a corner shelf inside the restaurant. Do not miss having lunchtime paella here! And do not confuse with a restaurant of a similar name IN the city of Valencia. |
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Dapper Valenciano, Guest Services Manager Jose Enrique Grau, has been at the ONLY YOU since its opening, and he endows the hotel with much if its appeal. We had lots of fun together and I received quite a few treats from. him, along with insights and tips on what to see in Valencia. We will return to this hotel on our last night before departing Spain from Valencia. |
Lovely lovely photos Scruncita. You radiate beauty and happiness. I am really enjoying your report & notes. Tell me, on the menu technically what you had was the arroz de pato? Other than those ingredients and the amount of meat and vegetables was there any other differences in what you were expecting? Was the rice much dryer? It looks delicious. By the way happy thanksgiving to you and all that celebrate.
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Enjoying your descriptions and photos. Your love for Spain is infectious.
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Great pictures. You look like you're having so much fun!
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Susan, it's so wonderful to be here, although my energy is flagging so I'm not going to as many places as I feel I should.
The photos from cuenca finally migrated to the laptop and, although I discussed two unusual dishes in th section about dinner at the parador in Cuenca, I wanted to add photos of these two dishes which are particular to the city and surroundings. Both are quite unusual, and maybe not for the squeamish,, and my partner actually loved the zarajos, the lamb intestines. The morteruuelo, not so much. This is a BIG item in the Conquenese kitchen and there are annual competitions as to who makes the best: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e691404c9.jpeg An incredibly great guacamole, of all things, as a welcome dish at the Parador in Cuenca https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e832b258f.jpeg The zarajos, lamb intestines with lime mayonnaise and mint, an iconic dish of Cuenca. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1da4e8c4c.jpeg Lovely leek and pear puree at the Parador https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ccd516e0.jpeg The (in)famous MORTERUELO of Cuenca, made up of pork liver, and various parts of game including hare, partridge, rabbit. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aedba5ce7.jpeg Parador carta indicating regional fare. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16742a556.jpeg Additional dishes we enjoyed at the dinner in the Parador, on a Monday when other restaurants were closed, included croquetas de jamon https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b939c0d9d.jpeg ...and roast lamb. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a30e32515.jpeg The dining room is glorious, as this lonely visitor indicates as he gazes up at the ceiling beams I hope to soon finish up the Valencia section with some comments and photos of where we ate, before we rent our car and take the easy drive to Denia, a city that was never on my radar but a (very small) city I am glad we visited. It's part of a string of small cities including next-door Xavia/Javea that form the Marina Alta of the Costa Blanca. |
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