Biking in Europe
 

Can people who have taken bike trips in Europe share with me the best European (or other) bike trips that they have taken. I am just starting to plan a trip. Two weeks max and this will be on my own.

topping

You might have a look at this thread:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34604038

Ahotpoet did a trip report on her tour of Tuscany with VBT, but Fodor's is WAY behind in its indexing and it won't come up if you search for it.

We have done one trip and some other random biking in Europe. We are recreational bikers rather than hardcore bikers at home. I don't know what category you fit in.

Last summer we did a self-guided 9 day trip through the Loire Valley. We had the trip arranged and rented the bikes from the Anjou Bike Centyer. We would highly recommend this arrangement as the prices were very reasonable, the route maps excellent, the area was very interesting, and the accomodations arranged were great.

We have had varying success with trying to rent good quality bicycles on our own. Many times we have come up with bad bikes, so that for us is one of the difficulties on the do-it-yourself totally idea.

We just returned from a trip to the inland Costa Brava area where they have an extensive system of bike routes. We were able to rent high quality bikes there and biked for a few days out of one central location doing loops. This was okay but not nearly as interesting as the Loire. After this experience we know that if we decide to bike again we will arrange our trip for an area that is also interesting touristically and has some interesting things to see and places to visit. While the Costa Brava area was beautiful countryside, we didn't really find anything to do outher than to just bike.

So, all in all, I'd suggest you look for places that you might want to visit even if you aren't biking, places where there are small back roads so you don't have to compete with traffic, and be reasonable about the distances you will be covering each day (we found that if we wanted to stop to see things we didn't make nearly the mileage we would have anticipated).

We did it ourselves.
Last year my wife and I took our bikes from Milwaukee to Paris. We took the train to Avignon and pedaled a great circle route camping along the way. We cycled to Pont du Gard and out to Uzes, Arles, St Remy, Carrillion out into the Luberon and Bonnieux, Gordes, Rousillion, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse Orange Cheateauneuf du Pape back to Avignon train back to Paris where we cycled the city as tourists for 3 days. Oue entire trip was 14 days. Fabulous trip.
The year before we flew with our bikes from Chicago to Venice and biked down the Adriatic to Ravenna where we turned west to Florence, Vinci and Lucca. We did not camp on this trip. Took the train to Cinque Terra, and Sienna back to Florence and flew home from Florence. Absolutely Fantastic.
Need details [email protected].
This Sept we are headed to Lake Bodensee (Constance)foe 2 weeks in Germany, Switz. Austria. If people can give suggestions on this trip we would love to hear.
GaryH

I am sorry to say I did not post a trip report, only posted photos of my trip. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ahotpoet/my_photos.
but I will tell you I went on the VBT Tuscany by the Sea Tour.
I had never been on a bike tour of any kind and was interested in an easy tour. The tour was wonderful. The accomodation was comfortable. The food was plentiful, delicious and varied. The tour leaders were caring, patient, helpful and good natured. We became a tight group. There were 18 of us.
If you have specific questions I will answer them otherwise I could just ramble on and hijack this thread. Amyb posted this trip report not long ago. http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34622997 She also did a VBT Tuscany tour although on a different more difficult route.
Where and when were you thinking of going?
Hope this helps.

I led bike trips in Europe for ten years - some tips:
France is my favorite biking venue - great well paved untravelled back roads thru lost-in-time villages and pastoral countryside - Loire Valley, Dordogne, Burgundy, Normandy all great areas as is Provence, but that far south in summer, and Dordogne too can get quite hot. Get the detailed Michelin maps and stick to the "D" roads - and those colored in yellow - stay off main roads shown in red as these are truck-filled and not much shoulders. Just about anywhere in France is great.
Holland - a biker's Nirvana - system of special bike paths go everywhere; all the Dutch bike it seems, even the Queen - bike rush hour in cities like Amsterdam sees the paths clogged with cyclists. Poor weather and wind compromise the joys of Dutch biking (plan your trip to go west and you'll often have the winds at your back)
Germany - great biking, especially in Mosel Valley and along Rhine - bike paths along roads paralleling these rivers. Mosel Valley Koblenz-Trie is so fantastic - deep gorge, sinuous river, slopes covered by vineyards, cute wine towns, etc. Primo (was favorite of many on our Bike Europe trips).
Mix bikes with trains? cycle the best of a few areas by putting your bike on a train to relocate - most regional trains takes bikes these days those highspeed trains often don't, but within a country it's easy to train to a different venue.
Italy? Boiling hot in Tuscany in summer and lots of hills but can't beat the hill town scenery. Italian drivers are a constant bother however.
Pack light! If you carry your own luggage. In places like Loire Valley there are many companies that carry luggage for you and you do your own trip. Or hotels that provide bikes and you do day trips out - the so-called hub and spoke type biking. Base city biking lets you bike without luggage - can go many miles and then return by train or do loops. Loire valley great for this.
Anyway biking is great - people so friendly to bikers - you'll have so many great experiences! If you have any questions about France or Holland (or Belgium, similar to Holland) ask me as i've cycled nearly everywhere in those countries.

I have only been on one, with VBT in Tuscany as ahotpoet mentioned. My trip report has all the detail. But suffice to say, I loved the experience enough that I am considering another one for this fall or next spring in Sicily!

PalQ
What company did you work for and do you still do this type of thing. I was thinking I wanted to see grape harvest in France this year. What is the best time to go and the region that you would recommend. Is there one particular way you recommend over another? I am not a strong biker at the moment but I love it so.

Many places in Europe are fantastic for cycling but I agree with PalQ I think that Holland is arguably one of the best equipped to deal with the two wheelers.

Muck

I did (while I was single) 2 trips with one of the "grandaddy" companies, Butterfield & Robinson. First was Normandy, and then the next year Dordogne. 4 years ago, with my husband & daughter, I repeated Normandy with them on one of the "family trips."
Realizing you said, biker2, that you'd be on your own, I would still suggest that you check out their catalog or website for some superb years. They've been doing these for multiple decades and are very creative, but I think you'll get some great ideas for general routes.
I would say - the Dordogne is just plain phenomenal - the history, the constant weathered castles, the food. Probably one of my most favorite parts of France (we're headed back in less than a month, just Paris this time.)
Good cycling! Jo Ann

Hotpoet: My company was called Bike Europe and we did camping/biking trips for college students for ten years; no longer in existence, we got weathered out - a string of rainy summers dampened our enthusiasm for the trips - not the only reason but also fear of a tragic accident after so many close calls - dreaded having to make a phone call back home, 'oh you daughter has just been runover by a bus' as almost happened once. But loved it and went into other aspects of European travel. The weather above the Alps can be dicey in summer - one 'suumer on our trips from London-Bruges-Amsterdam-Mosel Valley-Luxembourg-Paris it rained an incredible 35 days in a row! And often a drizzle all day - the sun came out only for a few fitful times - camps were mudholes, biking was a struggle. the Rhine was flooded, quite a mess.
but back to your questions about vendage viewing - picking of grapes - times vary from local to local as to the climate. The Mosel Valley in Germany is a primo wine-producing area and the harvest there i believe is in October. In France you can't beat Burgundy - take the meandering Route des Vins Bourgogne from Dijon south to Beaune and onto Macon - passing Nuits St Georges and many prestigous wine areas - numerous chateau-like wine houses. I'm not as familiar with biking Bordeaux area but that is much flater and warmer in fall - i think October for both is prime but not sure exactly, may vary from year to year. but those are the two best wine areas in France and maybe the world.
Rather than the necessary hardships of a carry your own bag bike trip and the hassle and expense of taking your bike on the plane, investigate the aforementioned services in France that carry your bags from place to place and rent a bike in the area. Lots of train stations rent bikes for example and more and more French hotels in wine areas provide them too and then do leisurely day trips. Beaune, a cute town that is a Burgundy wine capital, would be a great base and then just poke north and south of town along the wine road - perhaps taking a train back to Beaune. Anyway, go for it - incredible experience.

I have to jump back in and comment on the rent a bike idea. We have tried to do this and have found that this is not as simple as it appears to be. Often places that local tourist offices say rent bikes rent only clunkers that you wouldn't want to spend even an hour or two on. The train station idea is another one with which we have really had no luck (we've tried in France & Germany). Places that rent quality (the kind you'd be comfortable riding for an entire day) bikes are not abundant and you have to be able to contact them in advance to arrange details. There language difficulties can be an issue. To us this is the MAIN difficulty in trying to plan a trip of our own--how and where to find good bikes.

An added thought: I met a woman who has taken 3 trips with Cycling Safaris out of Ireland. She really liked the company and their prices are very, very, very reasonable compared to most of the companies.

regards rentals: i agree and i only suggest them for short few hour trips or going around cities. Germany however the German Railways has heavy-duty bikes parked all around towns that you rent with a chip card you buy and then put in the bike to release them and return them at racks all over the city. These seem sturdy bikes suitable for cities. But if you want a great mountain bike then bring your own, or shops will often sell you a bike and agree to buy it back at a certain discounted price of course. Switzerland is one place that rents quality mountain bikes.

And bike helmets, largely shunned by europeans, can be hard to find at rental shops. I was surprised at MacBike, a large Amsterdam rental agency in the main train station that they had no helmets to supply with their rental bikes. When i asked the guy if they had he gave some disdainful reply - for their liability if nothing else i thought they have them - especially for hectic city biking like in Amsterdam.

Gary - re Bodensee biking -- I ordered a biking map from a map company in the U.K. -- found it when I was searching the web for Bodensee biking; don't have the name handy right now, but can look for it if you're interested.

PalQ
I love what you had to say. SO what do you do now? Even though you don't have the company do you still go on that type of trip yourself?
I think I remember the summer you were talking about. Isn't that the summer when Prague flooded as well? Pictures on the news and then a visit to Prague a few years later made it very real to me.
I live in Florida so the prospect of biking in cooler climates and escaping the long hot summer is especially attractive. I have toyed with the idea of an easy Canada (Prince Edward Island)ride which may have to do for right now. Have you been there, done that?
I would love to pick your brain!

Holland is probably the most bike friendly country of Europe, except for the weather. It has dedicated bike roads and plenty of level terrain, and plenty of things to see and do. Two weeks here will just get you started.

hotpoet: thanks for your comments. since giving up the bike trips i began a European travel magazine, which actually began when we were doing the trips - did that for 20 years - now retired from the travel industry. Unfortunately i havn't biked much in Europe except poking around Orleans France at my son's house. As for Canada biking i have no idea - i've only biked in Europe and bit in Michigan. If you like cool go for Holland - really great place to bike - whole system of paths, with their own stoplights - bike freeways in towns - a maze of cycle-only paths. zillions of folks biking everywhere - old ladies, grandpas - a thousand great biking sights - people rolling cigarettes while riding - ladies in full skirts - kids straddling the back carrier in tow - just a fantastic place to bike. windmills, cows everywhere, canals.

PalQ
Do you live in France? I have been checking out tons of cycle tour websites. I like the idea of self guided tours but my friends are not like minded regarding bicycle trips and I am not inclined to go it alone. Any suggestions? If you prefer you may email me at [email protected]

No i don't live in France though i spent two months there a year for ten years when my son was small - can't come up with an answer for your question as seems only a group tour would be in order then, and those are tremendously expensive as they are geared to luxury-loving crowd. I've done all my bike trips solo (not included the groups i once led) and i love it but understand your hesitation.

PalQ
I did a VBT tour last month and I did love it and was very comfortable but if I want to do more trips like this I need to find an alternative that is not so pricey.
Thanks for your suggestions

Afraid they're aren't much cheaper trips to my knowledge at least from US -maybe some locally in France. Well there is the HI (Hostelling International) trips that are much cheaper but don't stay in upscale hotels. Maybe Gerhard's Odysseys from Portland OR - i've been familiar with his tours for many years and seem good. VBT has a sterling reputation. If your young might contact STA Travel 800-477.8364; otherwise convince a few friends and do the Loire-type programs where vans carry your bags between hotels at a fraction of the price of VBT-type tours.

If you want companies or route ideas check: Erickson Cycle Tours
www.ecycletours.com

or Ciclismo Classico
www.ciclismoclassico.com

I've used both companies and both were great!

My brother flew with his bike BA from Vancouver/London/Rome this fall with the itinerary of a two week trip down the west coast and over to Sicily. Unfortunately his bike spent six days in Heathrow's lost luggage. He never made it as far as Sicily.
The upside is that BA was forced through non delivery to pay for his hotel, meals and daytrip to Florence for his six day stay in Rome.
The key was in writing an eloquent letter to BA that the purpose of the trip was a winter training ride and that they foiled it.
He can claim to be a racer though, because he has the track record to prove it.
He did manage 100 miles a day with his luggage on his back on his track bike down the Amalfi coast roads.
Yes he is insane.

ahotpoet--

A few suggestions for you.

Check out cyclingsafaris.com. They are A LOT cheaper than the other group tours. As a single you could probably
join one of their groups. As I recall, a week long trip is in the E550 to E700 range per person. A friend has taken 3 of their trips and recommends them.

We used the Anjou Bike Center last year which arranges custom made trips. This was also about 1/3 the price of the tours you generally see described by the major companies.

Tulip tours in Holland also arrange custom made tours that are quite reasonable.

Here is a site that has bike tour reviews.http://www.biketour-reviews.com/bike_Riderreviews.htm

Here is another site for very reasonable group tours.

http://www.rueckenwind.de/index.cfm?...=1&lang=en

And yet another site for Germany

http://www.velociped.de/English/index.htm

we like to bike but can't spend the money the big bucks American tour operators want. These seem very reasonable to me, but I haven't taken their trips.

JulieS
Checked out alot of these links. Thanks so much. When is your next bike trip planned. I see you have done the gite thing as well. Is there a trip report to be had?

I guess I haven't put together any trip reports on these trips. If you are interested, I could give you details on last summer's bike trip to the Loire area. Before our bike trip we rented a wonderful gite for 5 days in the heart of Brittany. We just returned 3 weeks ago from a Spain and France trip where we rented an apaartment in the Spanish Pyrenees for 3 days and a gite in in the foothills of the French side of the Pyrenees for 4 nights. Then we stayed at a B & B for 4 nights in the inland Costa Brava area.

Other times we have rented gites in Normandy and just ourside of Granada in Spain. Renting a house or apartment for 5 to 7 days has now become our preferred way to travel. Now if we could just find that perfect gite in an area with great biking around it and a good bicycle rental set-up we'd be set.

That is my dream trip. How many miles a day do you average? Do you go for the easy terrain of the more hilly stuff? How would you categorize your Loire trip? I would love the details of that trip. I so want to see this years harvest on a bike.