| Ben Haines |
Jun 24th, 2002 10:09 AM |
BH in Warsaw
This is a quiet evening in Riga, as Latvians are just finishing their midsummer public holiday. I am in bed and breakfast in a flat where use of the internet is part of the (cheap) package. So lets start with Warsaw. I was just a day there. I arrived on the through sleeper from Hanover, which I had to myself alone, very restful. Happily it ran late, so I had a long night and the Polish sleeping car companys free light breakfast, and left the train at ten. I dropped bags, bought that nights ticket, and took the bus to the National Museum. They have fine collections of Dutch painting from the Golden Age, including a Rembrandt, and of fifteenth century altarpieces, usually with central carved pictures, always gilt. (Yesterday, Sunday, in Tallinn I was kneeling by one of these pictures to take the Eucharist, and was startled to find myself directly in line with a fifteenth century German donor). I lunched in the gallery, and took a bus to a small museum of Polish history 1918 to 1945. Most of it I didnt understand, but it was nice to be in a former museum of the history of Lenin. I had 70 minutes, so could fit in a tour in a cycle rickshaw around the Old Town. This cost three US dollars for the hour, excellent value, and no small relief to my tired right ankle and left knee. <BR><BR>I have changed my mind. Till now I have said that Adolf Hitler won, that his deliberate destruction of Warsaw block by block after the Rising in 1944 means that Warsaw is not now a rewarding place to visit. I no longer think this true. The old town is flourishing, and gives a sense of life that I have never felt there before. The rickshaw took me to the door of the Royal Castle, wholly rebuilt a frew years ago, where a chamber orchestra gave us ninety minutes of Mozart. It was down to be a 70 minute concert, but they played beautifully, and we persuaded them to give two encores, before the conductor said that after such hard work, on that hot evening, he hoped we would forgive their leaving. The hall was an ante-chamber to the Throne Room, gloriously done out in white and fresh gold, Baroque at its best. So downstairs, over the square, and by bus to the Central Statiion, where I had a quick supper and boarded the sleeper to Vilnius.<BR><BR>Ben Haines<BR>
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