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Stunning landscapes.
How awful about the shoe treads...glad you were able to get a replacement pair. May a full refund be in your future. |
I am really impressed with the distances you both accomplished. The views are worth every step. The shoe story is priceless. 😁
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The Lake District, an inspiration for poets and authors (Wordsworth, Keats, Shelley, Coleridge, Ruskin, and the children’s writers Beatrix Potter and Arthur Ransome), has attracted visitors for centuries. Mountains and lakes, deep glaciated valleys, barren moorlands, stone walls, stone buildings, slate roofs, deep green fields, gorse, bracken, and heather, narrow lanes, birdsong, the scent of sheep … these are the sensations that will endure in our memories.
Keswick itself is beautifully situated, lying at the northern end of Derwentwater. The mountain of Skiddaw, at 930 metres, towers over the town; looking down the lake, there is the Castlerigg Fell on the east, Cat Bells on the west, and the Borrowdale valley to the south. On our rest day, we made a circumnavigation of the lake. Launches run every ten minutes or so, stopping at landing stages at various points around the lake. We were on an early boat, but we noticed walkers already climbing the ridge up to the summit of Cat Bells. They looked like ants silhouetted against the sky. Cat Bells: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f97c3ae18.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b79665ea.jpeg Keswick to Caldbeck While not quite the longest, this was a tough stage that was under our skin from our earliest planning. It crosses High Pike, the highest point on the Cumbria Way. Uniquely, it includes a bifurcation point at a place called Skiddaw House, about 10 kilometres out of Keswick. The shorter route, “the good weather route,” runs northeastward, ultimately climbing High Pike. The longer route, “the foul weather route,” heads northwestwards to make a low-level half-circle around High Pike. The problem with the low-level route is that it adds another 6 km to the day, and it actually has just as much cumulative ascent as the shorter route; it just doesn’t reach the same height. The choice between the routes is a question of visibility at altitude. Walkers are advised to avoid High Pike in low cloud, as it is quite easy to get disoriented in fog. Does this sound unsettling? It did to us, even with our maps, compass, and GPS. And neither of us was prepared to walk the longer route. Happily, the day proved to be a mixture of sun and cloud, with a high ceiling and a strong breeze. We climbed out of Keswick, shouldered the Latrigg Fell, and then continued to climb until we followed a balcony path along the side of Lonscale Fell. Above us, the monstrous wall of the fell, and immediately to our right, the very deep valley of the Glenderaterra Beck. This was not a place where you wanted to trip. Last view of Derwentwater: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70a2ffa6e.jpeg The balcony path on the side of Lonscale Fell: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac76a9dfa.jpeg The track climbed again towards Skiddaw House, once a shooting lodge and more recently a youth hostel. These days, it is vacant and for sale. Turning northeast on the good weather route, we then descended, following the newborn River Caldew, which would figure prominently in our journey the next day. This was followed by a left turn away from the river and the climb from hell, from an abandoned wolfram mine up to the high and distant Lingy Hut, a bothy sitting on a ridge below High Pike. We slogged our way up (40 paces and then a rest; repeat), and finally opened the door to the cosy and immaculately clean hut, shared by how many thousands of hill walkers over the years. Skiddaw House, in the middle of nowhere: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...475c35d85.jpeg The tiny box on the top of the ridge is Lingy Hut. It's a long climb: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...122d484eb.jpeg We finally arrived: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f3c0e292.jpeg Map-reading in Lingy Hut: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7fed258a.jpeg The view from the bothy: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...698c1595d.jpeg Rested, we tackled High Pike, happy with what was now a gentle slope to the summit. At the top: a stone cairn, a stone bench, and a stone wind shelter. And sheep, of course, they’re everywhere on the fells. We didn’t linger; the wind was honking and we were tired. From Lingy Hut to the summit of High Pike: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ccfaee81.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99013ba73.jpeg At the summit: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c0f3a95ef.jpeg It was a long descent into Caldbeck, eventually reaching level ground and farms. The Lake District was now behind us. Stats for the day: 25 km, 8.5 hours on the trail Accommodation: The Oddfellows Arms, another walker’s inn, with lots of congenial chat with fellow hikers. Warm, good-humoured hospitality |
I like both the poetry and intrepidness of your journey, but have one footwear question:
Is it possible the hiking boots that had served you well were made in Canada and the last pair were made in China? Carry on! |
nyse, I still have my previous Keen boots and use them almost every day in the garden. I just checked the label; they were made in Thailand. As for the pair that failed, I really don't know where they were made, and I didn't bring them home with me.
I am very disappointed to be walking away from Keen (haha). Finding a hiking boot that is both comfortable and a perfect fit over a long distance is a real pleasure. I am happy with the new Meindls, although they were more expensive than the Keens. |
To finish up:
Caldbeck to Carlisle Some walkers of the Cumbria Way call it quits in Caldbeck, feeling that they are by now well out of the Lake District. It’s understandable, as the walk onwards feels nothing like the previous days of fells, dales, crags, fields, lakes, and tarns. No, this last stage is generally level, with pastures, fields of crops, and small woods, all beside the ever-present Caldew River. When we first met the Caldew in Back O’ Skiddaw, it was a small stoney brook; on this last day, it was a tree-lined river, fast-moving in places, tranquil in others. We saw ducks and herons. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40834aa45.jpeg Leaving Caldbeck, our final view of the Lake District and the Northern Fells. That's High Pike, which we went over yesterday: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed58c5239.jpeg Lower level farms meant more horses and cattle. We encountered a small herd of bullocks that we navigated without attracting too much attention, although neither of us were very happy about it. And later, our path led us into a field with both cows and bulls. We were standing at the gate, pondering what to do, when two women emerged from a thicket on our right. They had detoured around the entire field, and explained to us how we could do it. It turned out to be a convoluted route that I am not sure we would have figured out on our own. As we parted, one of them observed,“You’re wise to steer clear of this lot.” And so Jeane avoided death by cow. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad808d6f3.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...475b83253.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf0e257cd.jpeg Our Cumbria Way ended at the train station in Dalston, a small town about 8 km short of Carlisle, the official termination. Our trail organizer had advised us that construction of a gas pipeline just north of Dalston had temporarily severed the Cumbria Way. Our options to get around it were a train, a bus, or a taxi, so we opted for the train to whisk us the last few kilometres into Carlisle. Our stats for the day: 17.5 km, 5.5 hours elapsed. Our total walk over eight days: about 160 km Our accommodation in Carlisle: two nights at Courtfield Guest House, with a comfortable room and a very helpful host. The day after we finished the walk, we took the scenic train from Carlisle to Settle. Described by some as the most scenic rail journey in England, it is a 100 minute ride through the spectacular landscape of Cumbria and the northern Yorkshire Dales. We stopped in Settle long enough for a pub lunch and caught the return train home. https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/2...shouldnt-exist Some Parting Thoughts Would we do something like this again? We see ourselves as reasonably fit for our age, but I am 73 and Jeane is just shy of 70, so we can’t keep doing this forever. Neither of us have the balance we used to have. Steep climbs have become more difficult, and Jeane doesn’t feel sure-footed on uneven descents. Three of our eight days of walking were more difficult than we thought they would be, but in each case, we still had some gas in the tank. Not surprisingly, our conditioning improved as each day went by. There was also the mental side to it. As we became fatigued towards the end of the day, our optimism and enjoyment started to fade. But we turned that around by thinking in a more positive way. We started to focus on how far we had walked and how well we had done, rather than on how much more we had to do. We divided our day into five-kilometre blocks, and forced ourselves to take a rest after each block, whether we felt we needed to or not. So, yes, we would do it again, but we would prefer slightly shorter daily distances (something like 18 km, perhaps), and tracks no more difficult than what we encountered on this trip. The best parts of it? Unquestionably, the sense of achievement, but the enduring memories will be what we saw. We’ll leave the final words to John Ruskin: “Nature is painting for us, day after day, pictures of infinite beauty, if only we have eyes to see them.” https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c4bc07a4.jpeg |
What a wonderful account of your travels, AA; as well as the photos I especially enjoyed the Lake District section as when DH and I were first married [and indeed before] we did a lot of walking there. In those days there was no GPS or Garmin, just Ordinance Survey maps and Wainwright's little books with his invaluable hand drawn maps and directions. Did you come across any of his books?
Anyway kudos to you both for accomplishing this - it was quite a feat! |
How wonderfulAnselmeAdorn! Thank you for sharing this wonderful adventure.
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You've done great.
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Here I was feeling quite chuffed at the 5-13 km daily walks we have been doing, lol.
Well done on this, and your point about staying positive is so true in life. |
Thanks for all the comments!
annhig, I did see a copy of one of Wainwright's books in George Fisher in Keswick, but resisted the temptation. (I had just spent a small fortune on my new walking boots.) He really was a remarkable man. |
Great report, lots of food for thought as I put together our Lake District itinerary (later this year, hopefully).
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“Nature is painting for us, day after day, pictures of infinite beauty, if only we have eyes to see them.” What a beautiful quote to end your trip. Your distances traveled really are quite impressive and the scenery views are memory making,
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What an absolutely fabulous report of a real adventure! That you so much for sharing. You two are an inspiration.
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Spectacular landscapes and photos, illustrating an inspiring journey!
As I read I thought you might enjoy reading Anthony Bailey's A Walk Through Wales. I was interested to read that you visited Keswick. In NYC there's a store called Myers of Keswick which sells wonderful fresh English bangers and Cumberland sausages, as well as scotch eggs, pork pies, etc. If their products are representative of their origin, I'm sure you ate well in Keswick! |
Originally Posted by AnselmAdorne
(Post 17469551)
Hay-on-Wye to Kington
Our second day was a walk from Hay to Kington, about 24 kilometres to the north. We set off around 9 am, walking at first under cloud, but then in heat and sunshine. We were soon in short-sleeved tees and wishing we had worn our shorts. We started with a pleasant walk by the Hay River, and we were soon back among hundreds of sheep. Fences and dry-stone walls ran beside us or across in front of us; regular gates, kissing gates, and stiles led from one field to another. We occasionally followed streams, and in these places we often encountered deep, slippery mud. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9baa4fad8.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2940fa9bf.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b00bb62c1.jpeg Mid-morning we met a bullock. The risk of injury by cattle had been on the mind of my wife Jeane, who had spent her early childhood on a farm. “Of all the ways I could possibly die, the last thing I want is to die by cow!” I know, it sounds like a remote possibility, but it does happen. (According to this report in the BBC, those who work with cattle are at the greatest risk, but it also happens to walkers, especially if they are accompanied by a dog. We, happily, were dogless. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-englan...shire-54268160 ) This particular bullock was alone in the field, but near our next gate. He started to walk away as we approached, but then he turned, lowered his head, and made a feint towards me. Happily, he immediately lost interest, and turned away again. We scooted through the gate. Later, we met a farmer driving his sheep to a field. He was carrying a lamb: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5356f325.jpeg On we walked until we reached the village of Newchurch, where we had to climb Disgwylfa Hill. The sun was now full-on, but the climb was thankfully short. More rolling fields until Gladestry, which marks the foot of Hergest Ridge. It was at this point that I called our pre-booked taxi and set up a 4 pm meeting at the Swan in Kington. It made sense at that moment, given how fast we had been walking, but it turned out to be a miscalculation of the time it would take us to climb and descend the ridge. We met more wild ponies on Hergest Ridge, including this pregnant mare: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d68c68300.jpeg The ascent was truly a breakheart hill if ever there was one; steep and shadeless, it rose through successive false summits before finally overlooking Kington. The descent, while easy, seemed endless, and neither of us wanted to keep our driver waiting. At our scheduled meeting time, we were still more than half a kilometre from the Swan. (Any hope of a quick half-pint while we waited for our taxi was now completely dashed.) I called our driver to tell him we’d need another 10 minutes, but he kindly offered to drive down a road towards us. Moments later we were hurtling down those narrow hedge-edged lanes in Wales, headed back to Hay-on-Wye. A good second day, all-in-all, but neither of us were happy about having to hustle a bit to meet our taxi in Kington. We would have been wiser to have set a later pick-up. Stats for the day: 25 km, 7 hours elapsed. (My app also said I burned 2,229 calories, which justified that evening’s pizza and beer.) We then had a rest day in Hay-on-Wye. It is a charming village, well-known for its used bookshops. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74e0911b6.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5cd533c3.jpeg |
Originally Posted by AnselmAdorne
(Post 17469551)
Hay-on-Wye to Kington
Our second day was a walk from Hay to Kington, about 24 kilometres to the north. We set off around 9 am, walking at first under cloud, but then in heat and sunshine. We were soon in short-sleeved tees and wishing we had worn our shorts. We started with a pleasant walk by the Hay River, and we were soon back among hundreds of sheep. Fences and dry-stone walls ran beside us or across in front of us; regular gates, kissing gates, and stiles led from one field to another. We occasionally followed streams, and in these places we often encountered deep, slippery mud. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9baa4fad8.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2940fa9bf.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b00bb62c1.jpeg Mid-morning we met a bullock. The risk of injury by cattle had been on the mind of my wife Jeane, who had spent her early childhood on a farm. “Of all the ways I could possibly die, the last thing I want is to die by cow!” I know, it sounds like a remote possibility, but it does happen. (According to this report in the BBC, those who work with cattle are at the greatest risk, but it also happens to walkers, especially if they are accompanied by a dog. We, happily, were dogless. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-englan...shire-54268160 ) This particular bullock was alone in the field, but near our next gate. He started to walk away as we approached, but then he turned, lowered his head, and made a feint towards me. Happily, he immediately lost interest, and turned away again. We scooted through the gate. Later, we met a farmer driving his sheep to a field. He was carrying a lamb: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5356f325.jpeg On we walked until we reached the village of Newchurch, where we had to climb Disgwylfa Hill. The sun was now full-on, but the climb was thankfully short. More rolling fields until Gladestry, which marks the foot of Hergest Ridge. It was at this point that I called our pre-booked taxi and set up a 4 pm meeting at the Swan in Kington. It made sense at that moment, given how fast we had been walking, but it turned out to be a miscalculation of the time it would take us to climb and descend the ridge. We met more wild ponies on Hergest Ridge, including this pregnant mare: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d68c68300.jpeg The ascent was truly a breakheart hill if ever there was one; steep and shadeless, it rose through successive false summits before finally overlooking Kington. The descent, while easy, seemed endless, and neither of us wanted to keep our driver waiting. At our scheduled meeting time, we were still more than half a kilometre from the Swan. (Any hope of a quick half-pint while we waited for our taxi was now completely dashed.) I called our driver to tell him we’d need another 10 minutes, but he kindly offered to drive down a road towards us. Moments later we were hurtling down those narrow hedge-edged lanes in Wales, headed back to Hay-on-Wye. A good second day, all-in-all, but neither of us were happy about having to hustle a bit to meet our taxi in Kington. We would have been wiser to have set a later pick-up. Stats for the day: 25 km, 7 hours elapsed. (My app also said I burned 2,229 calories, which justified that evening’s pizza and beer.) We then had a rest day in Hay-on-Wye. It is a charming village, well-known for its used bookshops. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74e0911b6.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5cd533c3.jpeg Sobering thought that a km walking burns only about 90 calories, and the marginal difference relative to just standing still, less than that lol |
Originally Posted by AnselmAdorne
(Post 17470052)
Nelson, no, we didn't, but I'm not sure I could have taped it well enough to last two days. Our next leg, which I will post tomorrow, was over very rough ground.
I am just now filling in a warranty claim with Keen. ps, v impressed w your avg distances, i have gone max 16 km in a day, and doubt i could manage it repeatedly. You are in great shape! love the idea of looking back on what accomplished |
Originally Posted by Sue_xx_yy
(Post 17471180)
shoe goo? I have always wondered if that product worked...
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For all the "just in case" gear we carried with us on the trail (whistle, flashlights, insect repellant, sun screen, first aid kit, knife, cold weather and wet weather layers, the Garmin, etc), the last thing we thought would happen was a boot coming apart. As mentioned above, mine were quite new and low mileage. But as I think about it, gluing a tread on the trail would have been difficult, primarily because you'd have to get both surfaces clean and, I presume, dry. Here's a photo after I had cut away the loose tread. I was able to walk on that for two days, but with impaired traction. It was also slippery on wet rocks.
All this makes me wonder whether we should carry glue or tape on a future walk. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d6af91d82.jpeg |
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