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BEST Trip 2 Italy 2 Date(direct quote from Mr. Flame123) Includes Le Marche

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BEST Trip 2 Italy 2 Date(direct quote from Mr. Flame123) Includes Le Marche

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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 02:55 AM
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BEST Trip 2 Italy 2 Date(direct quote from Mr. Flame123) Includes Le Marche

We are back from another hugely successful trip to our (my) favorite Bella Italia. On this trip we spent :

- 4 nights in Sorrento at fabulous Villa Monica B&B high up in the hills
- 4 nights in Hotel Floridiana in the center of Amalfi (with thanks to ekscrunchy for your enthusiastic review and recommendation!!)
- 5 nights at Albergo Piceno in the JEWEL Ascoli Piceno in Le Marche
- 3 nights in Flamini Domus apartment right off the Campo di Fiori in Roma

As always I will begin with descriptions and reviews of our accomodations :

Villa Monica in Sorrento
This is actually a large villa which belong(s)(ed) to the proprietor's father-in-law. It has been divided into several guest rooms, each with a lovely balcony overlooking the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius. Each room is a bit different, but they are all comfortable, spotlessly clean, and accommodating. Breakfast was included and was rich and varied. Pasquale, our host, was the BEST : a) driver – the room price not only included breakfast and WiFi but also a pick-up/drop-off service which was a godsend, given that the roads up to the B&B were somewhat tricky even for an experienced and fearless driver; b) entertainer – he was funny, entertaining, plays the piano, kept us laughing the whole time; c) host – he had whatever information we needed as to dinner options, places to visit, etc. I had gotten a discounted rate, on an already inexpensive price per night of 65 Euros (I believe without the discount it would be 75 Euros). HIGHLY recommended in every possible way!!!!!

Hotel Floridiana
In the center of Amalfi, right next door (really) to the cathedral, this small family-run hotel received this review from my husband – "this is the most beautiful and eye-appealing hotel I have ever been to". Our room was large and comfortable and beds were great. We had a huge bathroom and plenty of towels and amenities. Breakfast was beautiful and varied and included cheeses, meats and eggs and served in a MOST gorgeous antique-filled and frescoed room. Our proprietor was one of the sweetest and most helpful women we have ever met. Again HIGHLY recommended in every possible way!! Superior rooms 120 Euros per night, included breakfast, WiFi and parking in a garage about 200 meters away.

Albergo Piceno
Our first foray into the region called Le Marche, not much touristed and we like it that way!! This is a jewel of a hotel in a jewel of a town. It is in a small road just off the main Piazza Arringo, a small boutique hotel, clean, comfortable and quiet. Superior rooms included a large bathroom with Jacuzzi, beautiful comfortable king-size beds, a balcony in some rooms, WiFi, breakfast, free parking in a nearby garage and free mini-bar! Staff were lovely, helpful, intuitive, with great recommendations on everything we needed. Superior rooms 120 Euros per night. Again, HIGHLY recommended!!!

Flamini Domus
Our first time in an apartment, this is situated in THE best place I have ever been so far in Roma, and I have been many times. It is in a small alleyway/road right off the Campo di Fiori and was so well located that we never ever had to use any public transportation to anywhere we wanted to walk, and we walked all over Roma in our three days there. The apartment consisted of two rooms, one larger than the other (we were two couples so each couple had their own room and own bathroom) and in between the rooms was a shared kitchen. Again, clean, comfortable, large rooms and wonderful proprietor, although this being an apartment they were not available except by phone. This was fine for us since we did not need any help or direction from them. Breakfast items were left for us in the kitchen and frig and we bought whatever else we needed at a nearby supermarket. 120 Euros per night per room. HIGHLY recommended.
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 03:24 AM
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Let me be the first to welcome you back and to say that I very much look forward to "traveling" with you, Flame!

I am so glad you enjoyed Hotel Floridiana!
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 04:52 AM
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Cant wait to hear more!
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 05:14 AM
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A great start and the places all sound incredible. More please!
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 05:33 AM
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Anxiously waiting for more!!!! good info so far.
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 06:42 AM
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Also looking forward to more!
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 08:43 AM
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me, too! I love Italy trip reports! Thanks for doing this.
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 08:51 AM
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This does sound incredible. I am thinking it has been a looong time since I was in Italy and time I went back!
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 09:45 AM
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ekscrunchy - thanks for the immediate and great welcome back. Everyone else - thanks for your kind words!

Hertz Car Rental, Getting to our first destination in Sorrento and using the GPS (hint hint - it doesn't work in these parts!!!!)

Arrival at Fiumicino and Hertz rental car pick-up. Brand new Mercedes station wagon was terrific. I had always rented with Avis but this time, for several reasons, chose Hertz. I was MUCH happier with Hertz as they were far more organized, pleasant and attentive to customers. I will continue using them in the future.

We were two couples on this trip and the car was big enough for all 4 adults inside the car, and roomy enough in the trunk for the following : one oversize suitcase, two fairly big duffel bag-type suitcases, two hard-sided small suitcases (a bit larger than carryon) and two hand luggages. As time went on, with many purchases made, the trunk was still great and only at the very end before moving onto our last leg of the trip in Rome did we have to stuff some of our belongings in the back seat between the two misfortunate travelers!!! All in all, it was a pleasant surprise as this is what I was most worried about when choosing this car.

On our way towards Napoli, we stopped for our first lunch in Gragnano and had some lovely handmade pastas and antipasti.

I have never traveled in Italy using a GPS before. Usually I rely on Michelin maps and/or the usually very good signs on the roads. Often times (not when trying to get to a destination but when going out on day trips) I would just decide on a "general direction" and go wherever the "car feels like it" so to speak.

This time, the other couple brought a GPS and we had it set, just for insurance. Well..... the GPS does not really work around the Amalfi Coast, something we had not known. And it ended up bringing us to anywhere BUT where we needed to go. Contrary to times when I just let the car go wherever it pleased, THIS time it brought us to very steep and narrow hill roads which were really a bit tricky to get out of. When we finally decided to discontinue use of the GPS and call our Sorrento B&B host, he met us somewhere around Sorrento center and we followed him to the B&B.

Pasquale was a fabulous host and his B&B is a pleasure. We had two gorgeous rooms with beautiful views (Sorrento Room and Napoli Room).

Relying on Pasquale's recommendations for dinner, we went out to Vino Vero restaurant. He drove us there and back. We enjoyed delicious pasta with fresh porcini and cheese, some excellent huge veal cutlets and steaks. A very nice house red was consumed and beautiful cut up fruit plates (pineapple, kiwi, persimmon, grapes, melon and peach!!) was desert.

We all slept very well that night.
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 10:38 AM
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I love Italy trip reports too! Looking forward to reading more!
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Old Nov 7th, 2011, 11:42 AM
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his sounds like it will be so much fun to read. Thanks for posting, and please continue
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Old Nov 8th, 2011, 03:45 AM
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CAPRI

Our first breakfast at Villa Monica was great and consisted of wonderful LARGE cappuccinos made by the lovely young Mikayla,hard boiled eggs, salamis, yellow cheeses, fruits, cakes, cornetti, cookies, yogurts, etc (funny-there was even a small jar of Skippy peanut butter - certainly not usual in Italian breakfasts!!).

A lift to town with Pasquale near to Piazza Taso and a walk down to the Port to catch a boat to Capri. 60 Euros per couple round trip. The boat left at 11:45 and took about 20 minutes. Weather was beautiful after such strong rain last night, but waters were choppy and several people did not feel well.......

On the boat we were approached by a tour guide named Guiseppe who convinced us to pay 20 Euros each and use his services (normally I would not really have reacted in the positive to this approach by a tour guide but our friends seemed very interested and I thought "why not?"). This included a small bus ride to the top to Anacapri which was quite unbelievable both in scenery and in sheer fright of the roads and turns. A walk with him (and two other mini-busloads for a total of about 40 people) towards the center and then to Villa San Michele. We chose to go in and we enjoyed a wonderful hour there walking through the house and gardens. The views and the sun and the blue sky and water were amazing. We walked up more and more and more till we got to a little cafe at the top of the world or so it seemed and we had coffee, orange juice freshly squeezed, Campari soda, and just enjoyed the solitude (since no one else was there at the time), serenity and quiet. Hmmmmmmmmm.

Back to a meeting point with Guisepp and then the bus down to Capri, another walk through beautiful streets and alleys towards Jardin Augustus where we entered got a brief description, etc. We had each been given a ticket to go back down to the port with the funiculare whenever we wanted and at this point he bade us farewell.

Back at the port, after we had our fill of the views and picture-taking (and having to get back to catch the last boat by 5:20 since it was already winter-time schedules), we walked the area there, went into stores, and sat in a small cafe near the water and had milk shakes, coffee and Irish coffee!! It was great. We took the last boat back at 5:20 and it just started clouding up and raining as we waited for the boat. But it was not too bad. As always, we called Pasquale who came to drive us back to the B&B.

This evening, for dinner, Pasquale suggested a place in Sorrento center called Inn Bufalita where we had THE best antipasti EVER. Plates of salamis with rucola, plates of different mozzarellas and then ricotta with honey drizzled on top and slightly warm, tomato salad with just the right amount of salt and oil, plates of antpasti veggies which included chicorella I think and some other amazing things that we never had before, one of which I believe was a pumpkin or squash dish.

Pastas with mushrooms and black truffle for the girls,ravioli with ricotta and tomato sauce for the boys. Deserts included pineapple, espresso a cherry cheesecake. With a liter of red wine plus assorted drinks the total bill came to 130 euros. Not inexpensive but all around worth it.
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Old Nov 8th, 2011, 03:55 AM
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Wonderful food!

What is the problem with the GPS's in that area? Poor map input? It's easy to see in the cities where streets can change names every couple of blocks.
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Old Nov 8th, 2011, 03:58 AM
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I honestly don't know but it is a "given" to everyone who lives there and knows the area that the GPS does not work well, or at all. Maybe the rugged terrain? Maybe indeed poor map input as you write above? Maybe it was a sign for me that since I had never used a GPS before, I should continue NOT using one? LOL !!!
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Old Nov 9th, 2011, 08:56 AM
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A DAY TRIP TO CASERTA (a place I had not heard about)....

Since our friends are antique-market fanatics, our B&B host told us about a wonderful market in his home town of Caserta, about one hour away on the autostrada and we decided to drive there today.

As before, he drove our car down to the center of Sorrento and gave us instructions on how to get to Caserta Nord exit, passing by Piano di Sorrento, Sant Agnello, Castellmare, Seiano, etc. and when we got off the autostrada we called him. He in turn then called his brother in Caserta who came in 10 minutes by motorbike to lead us to the center of town and the market. Unbelievable service and kindness.

We drove and stopped at a place to park, put on a sticker which was 2 euros for the entire day since it was Sunday and said thanks and off he went. We spent about 2 hours at this market and it was lucky that weather was OK - otherwise they would not be there because everything is out in the open on the streets!!

It was a fabulous market and it was a truly unique experience, at least for me. I even found some interesting and inexpensive pieces that I liked and bought. The interaction also with the people who were selling, who know NO English at all, also gave me a chance to brush up my Italian and I totally enjoyed it.



After some fortifying coffee we went back to the car and it just then started drizzling and became some pretty bad rain.

But we decided to visit the Reggia di Caserta that our host had recommended as our next stop of the day and it was fabulous. It is touted as similar to Versailles gardens and palace but it is 100 times bigger I think and much more ornate and beautiful. We had trouble finding it and one nice lady, in the rain and with her small child in the car, actually drove us to it by telling us to follow her. Only in Italy. By the time we parked the car not far from there the rain was less but it was still a cold day. We got tickets at the entrance and started walking the vast expanse of the gardens just to get to the first entrance of the palace. We went inside only one of the many apartments. Very ornate and full of gold, chandeliers, etc. with a temporary modern art exhibition inside which was great. We walked forever and up and down long staircases, also saw the capella which was as the rest. And then it was time to leave. Bought some books on the Reggia, it is not written up in any guide books and we would not have known about it.

We drove back via a different route and returned to our B&B in the late afternoon and saw the beautiful sun starting to go down on the hills and waters on the drive back.

Dinner tonight was at Da Filippo which we loved the best so far. We all started with a plate of self-serve antipasti buffet (one-time journey to the buffet but as much as you wanted on one plate) which was great. Then we had charbroiled roasted chicken (the Italians make THE best roasted chicken I have ever tasted!!) and steak which was great with salads and potatoes, red wine of course and fruit and desert plates.
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Old Nov 9th, 2011, 10:34 AM
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Delicious!
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Old Nov 11th, 2011, 06:08 AM
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Here is our last day in the Sorrento area :

POMPEII, ERCOLANO and our FABULOUS GUIDE LUCIA !!!
Today we went down into town at 9:30 with Pasquale and walked to the Circumvesania train station, took the 10:37 to Pompeii and our guide Lucia was waiting there for us. She is an amazing lady with unbelievable insight, a wealth of information and an all-around great woman to spend the day with. I can MOST HIGHLY recommend her to anyone looking for a perfect guide for the day, or half-day. We all immediately loved her. We went down to the Pompeii Scavi and proceeded to have an almost 3 hour tour there with her. She brought the place alive for us and there was no question that she did not have an immediate answer for. We went into so many different "houses" and places there and she knew what to tell us about them all.

The weather was superb, sunny, blue skies and perfect temperature of not cold and not hot, even though last night there was SUCH a terrible wind and rain that I thought we would be blown out of our rooms and we had to actually heat the room last night !! But it was mostly gone this morning and by the time we got to Pompeii we eventually even had to remove all clothes except the very minimum!!

At about 2:30 we took the train to Ercolano (Herculaneum) together with Lucia, after resting only a very few minutes with some drinks and snacks. Ercolano is much much MUCH smaller than Pompeii but really very different. Pompeii was covered in the eruption with 400 degree Celsius lava and ash while somehow Ercolano was just covered in mudslides. So while the people and animals and all living things in Pompeii were absolutely disintegrated, in Ercolano they were petrified in mud. Wooden beams of houses that are originals are still there and able to be seen.

By about 4:40 we ended the tour here too and we paid (120 Euros per person) and said our goodbyes. While this was not inexpensive, it was just about THE most well spent money we paid out for anything on this trip and we were in completely agreement on that, all four og us.

We went out and had some coffee and a rest and then back to the Ercolano station for a 5:28 train back to Sorrento. In the evening we went back to Da Fillipo for another great dinner including spaghetti carbonara, steaks, seafood and fruit plates.

Tomorrow we head off for Amalfi.
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Old Nov 11th, 2011, 06:14 AM
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Hub and I ran out of time for Reggia di Caserta. Am so glad to hear a great review about it. As you say, it is not as well-known as it should be. Town sounds wonderful also.

Until visiting Italy and especially Pompeii, my history interest was low. Having a well-versed guide can bring history to life, eh?

Come on, amalfi!
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Old Nov 12th, 2011, 08:43 PM
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Enjoying your travels with you, thank you! Keep up the story ...
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Old Nov 14th, 2011, 10:30 PM
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Sorry for the delay in continuing........

We drove into the center of Sorrento and did some shopping. Drove to Amalfi and filled up gas on the way - first time - diesel car for 57 Euros 3/4 tank (wow).

Amalfi is only about 30 km away but because of the winding road, etc. we could drive only very slowly and it was truly as magnificent as everyone says. After the crazy hill roads I ended up on though in the first day in searching for our place in Sorrento it seemed pretty tame and not halfway as scary and narrow as they say albeit I DID get into a tight squeeze WITH A BUS in a small tunnel ON a curve, etc. but it was OK. We got to Amalfi around 14:00 and made the small roundabout by the port and into a small PEDESTRIAN street where sometimes you are allowed to drive, there is a small you-can-hardly-see-it traffic light which turns green only every 7 minutes so if you get there when it is red you have to sit and shut the car off till it is green, really wierd. Agnes, our proprietor came to the car while we waited for the green light, I had called her, and told us where to take the car, 200 meters further from the hotel, to a garage and showed us where the steps are to the hotel. When we got to the garage there was a very nice young man there who took our luggage from the car and brought it up to hotel with a small electric type gold-cart thingy. Another nice guy took our car and parked it for us. The garage is open from 8 am till 9 pm and later through the hotel if we need but we won't be driving at night so that is fine.

We have lovely rooms and Agnese is just amazing as I knew from tripadvisor readings and from our correspondence. After getting organized and a short rest we were out by 4 PM to a seaside restaurant where we had drinks, coffee and relaxed.

By around 9 PM we were ready to go for dinner which we did at Taverna degli Apostoli right under and next to the Duomo which is next door really to our hotel. We had a great meal there albeit it the most expensive to date - 154 euros - of pastas, broiled/charcoiled smoked mozzarella cheese under a lemon leaf, great sea bream fish and seafoods, wine, tirsamisu, salads and coffee. It was so late by the time we finished that we closed up this restaurant for the night.
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