Best small medieval towns & villages in/near Val d'Orcia
Mar 13th, 2014, 01:27 PM
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Best small medieval towns & villages in/near Val d'Orcia
Does anyone have any recommendations for small medieval towns and villages, castles, fortresses and romanesque or gothic churches/pievi in or near Val d'Orcia, Crete Senese or nearby?
My boyfriend and I will be staying near Pienza in the Val d'Orcia in May. We've been to San Querico d'Orcia, Pienza, Montalcino, Castiglione d'Orcia, Rocca d'Orcia, Monte Oliveto Maggiore, Asciano and Sant'Antimo. And we've been to Siena, though I would call Siena a mid-sized, not small town.
We're thinking of going one day to Trequanda, Monticchiello, Castelmuzio & Petroio. Another day, we're planning to go to Radicofani. We'll also be going to Buonconvento and I think to Chiusi.
My boyfriend and I will be staying near Pienza in the Val d'Orcia in May. We've been to San Querico d'Orcia, Pienza, Montalcino, Castiglione d'Orcia, Rocca d'Orcia, Monte Oliveto Maggiore, Asciano and Sant'Antimo. And we've been to Siena, though I would call Siena a mid-sized, not small town.
We're thinking of going one day to Trequanda, Monticchiello, Castelmuzio & Petroio. Another day, we're planning to go to Radicofani. We'll also be going to Buonconvento and I think to Chiusi.
Mar 13th, 2014, 02:34 PM
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You might enjoy the ruins of the Abbey of San Galgano, which dates from the 13th century.
Monteriggioni is a medieval walled town, very picturesque from the outside.
San Gimignano is famous for its medieval towers.
Volterra (maybe further than you want to go) has walls which partly date from the Etruscan period.
There is an 11th century abbey in Cortona, the Abbey of Farneta, which we saw from the outside. We couldn't find out who might be able to open it for us. The Abbadia (abbey) of San Salvatore, in the town of the same name, also dates from the 11th century. I haven't seen it, myself, but it's much larger than the one in Cortona.
In Italy, the medieval period ended in the early 14th century, and I don't think any towns have more than a few buildings that are that old. Residences especially are usually much more recent than that. The streets may be laid out in the medieval pattern, but you'll almost always find that the buildings have been torn down and rebuilt multiple times.
We know someone who recently bought a house built right into the medieval wall of a town in Le Marche, where I live. An expert who examined the house didn't see anything that was older than the 17th century, though, and only a few fragments were that old. Even the wall itself, which dates from the 14th century, probably has no more than a few bricks that haven't been replaced over the centuries as part of normal upkeep.
If you want to see castles, you should really visit Le Marche. We have more castles and walled towns than you can shake a stick at.
Monteriggioni is a medieval walled town, very picturesque from the outside.
San Gimignano is famous for its medieval towers.
Volterra (maybe further than you want to go) has walls which partly date from the Etruscan period.
There is an 11th century abbey in Cortona, the Abbey of Farneta, which we saw from the outside. We couldn't find out who might be able to open it for us. The Abbadia (abbey) of San Salvatore, in the town of the same name, also dates from the 11th century. I haven't seen it, myself, but it's much larger than the one in Cortona.
In Italy, the medieval period ended in the early 14th century, and I don't think any towns have more than a few buildings that are that old. Residences especially are usually much more recent than that. The streets may be laid out in the medieval pattern, but you'll almost always find that the buildings have been torn down and rebuilt multiple times.
We know someone who recently bought a house built right into the medieval wall of a town in Le Marche, where I live. An expert who examined the house didn't see anything that was older than the 17th century, though, and only a few fragments were that old. Even the wall itself, which dates from the 14th century, probably has no more than a few bricks that haven't been replaced over the centuries as part of normal upkeep.
If you want to see castles, you should really visit Le Marche. We have more castles and walled towns than you can shake a stick at.
Mar 13th, 2014, 03:09 PM
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I am surprised you have not listed Montepulciano, which is close by Pienza. It has Renaissance palaces but also some medieval buildings.
If you are willing to drive about 1.25 hours south, you can visit Bolsena, on the lake of the same name (and actually in the province of Viterbo, Lazio). They have a castle, Castello Rocca di Monaldeschi, that was originally built in the medieval era. I am not sure how much of the original building survives, due to natural and man-made disasters, but it definitely has that medieval look with crenelation and towers. You could combine with a visit to Civita di Bagnoregio, a crumbling town in a dramatic setting (although a very short visit, since it really is crumbling away).
Anyway, I thought Bolsena was a good stop, especially with the lake (a volcanic crater) to enjoy.
If you are willing to drive about 1.25 hours south, you can visit Bolsena, on the lake of the same name (and actually in the province of Viterbo, Lazio). They have a castle, Castello Rocca di Monaldeschi, that was originally built in the medieval era. I am not sure how much of the original building survives, due to natural and man-made disasters, but it definitely has that medieval look with crenelation and towers. You could combine with a visit to Civita di Bagnoregio, a crumbling town in a dramatic setting (although a very short visit, since it really is crumbling away).
Anyway, I thought Bolsena was a good stop, especially with the lake (a volcanic crater) to enjoy.
Mar 13th, 2014, 07:58 PM
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Karen,
This may give you ideas http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/hs_planning.htm
This may give you ideas http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/hs_planning.htm
Mar 14th, 2014, 12:38 AM
#5
Well the archabbey of monte oliveto leaps to mind as does the old end of Buonconvento and then to the north of Buonconvento on the SR2 before you get to Siena you will find a lovely little walled village whose name eludes me but could be Lucignano d'Arbia (pretty sure it is) again.
North of Siena you also must pop into Monteriggioni (just think what that name means) but approach it up the West North West side (not for vehicles) and the views are stunning.
North of Siena you also must pop into Monteriggioni (just think what that name means) but approach it up the West North West side (not for vehicles) and the views are stunning.
Mar 14th, 2014, 02:07 AM
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Tuscany really isn't a great region for castles, because the rural lords were often replaced at an early period by merchant princes, who lived in the free comunes, and, at most, had a tower in the center of the town. Many towns in Italy still have these medieval towers; the most famous example is San Gimignano, which has quite a few in a fairly small area. Bologna has many medieval towers remaining, as does Ascoli Piceno, in Le Marche.
Lucca has a number of medieval buildings, including at least one tower, but, again, this is quite some distance from Pienza, and Karen asked for suggestions in that general area.
Lucca has a number of medieval buildings, including at least one tower, but, again, this is quite some distance from Pienza, and Karen asked for suggestions in that general area.
Mar 14th, 2014, 06:24 AM
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Hi Karen,
Lucky you returning to that beautiful part of Italy. For an historical perspective on the area, you might enjoy reading IRIS ORIGO, the Marchesa of Val d’Orcia by Caroline Moorehead. Iris was an American aristocrat who traveled in the best circles in Florence, then married an Italian nobleman.
Together they build their estate of LaFoce, now an upscale agriturismo near Montepulchiano and Pienza in southern Tuscany. Her bio covers the terrible years during WWII which the Origos survived with great courage and perseverance.
The estate today - lafoce.com/
Lucky you returning to that beautiful part of Italy. For an historical perspective on the area, you might enjoy reading IRIS ORIGO, the Marchesa of Val d’Orcia by Caroline Moorehead. Iris was an American aristocrat who traveled in the best circles in Florence, then married an Italian nobleman.
Together they build their estate of LaFoce, now an upscale agriturismo near Montepulchiano and Pienza in southern Tuscany. Her bio covers the terrible years during WWII which the Origos survived with great courage and perseverance.
The estate today - lafoce.com/
Mar 14th, 2014, 10:33 AM
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I am a bit surprised to hear Tuscany characterized as not being a great region for castles (and this long list is not complete):
http://www.casinadirosa.it/things-to...es-in-tuscany/
http://www.casinadirosa.it/things-to...es-in-tuscany/
Mar 14th, 2014, 02:59 PM
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There are plenty of castles in Tuscany, but, really, they are not as common as in some other regions. I tried to find a list of castles by region, but I gave up as when I looked at the various lists, the castles indicated for Le Marche, where I live, were so incompletely accounted for as to be ridiculous. The town of Arcevia, near my home, has nine castles within the town boundaries.
http://www.arceviaweb.it/hostarcevia...telli/Menu.htm
In parts of Le Marche, there are the ruins of a castle on nearly every hill. Le Marche were borderlands, as the name indicates, and were heavily fortified in the middle ages. Little towns were fought over continuously, sieges were laid, the Guelphs and the Ghibellines were constantly at each other's throats.
http://www.arceviaweb.it/hostarcevia...telli/Menu.htm
In parts of Le Marche, there are the ruins of a castle on nearly every hill. Le Marche were borderlands, as the name indicates, and were heavily fortified in the middle ages. Little towns were fought over continuously, sieges were laid, the Guelphs and the Ghibellines were constantly at each other's throats.
Mar 14th, 2014, 03:12 PM
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Thanks for the replies!
We did make it to Bagno Vignoni last time. I'd like to go to Montepulcino, it just sounds as much Renaissance as medieval. Also, I guess what I should have said is that I'd love to hear about towns and villages that aren't commonly covered in guidebooks. This is sort of new to me, sorry about that.
I guess we'll have to consider Le Marche for the next trip. But I think we'll manage to make do with what we find in Tuscany. I'm sure there are more fortresses and castles in the neck of the woods where we'll be than we'll have time to visit.
Latedaytraveler - I did read War in Val d'Orcia - it's a wonderful suggestion for anyone interested in the area. What incredibly generous people the Origos were. Have you ever been to the Dopolavoro for a meal? We won't be in the area on a Wednesday (I think that's when La Foce's open to the public), but we're thinking of going to Dopolavoro.
We did make it to Bagno Vignoni last time. I'd like to go to Montepulcino, it just sounds as much Renaissance as medieval. Also, I guess what I should have said is that I'd love to hear about towns and villages that aren't commonly covered in guidebooks. This is sort of new to me, sorry about that.
I guess we'll have to consider Le Marche for the next trip. But I think we'll manage to make do with what we find in Tuscany. I'm sure there are more fortresses and castles in the neck of the woods where we'll be than we'll have time to visit.
Latedaytraveler - I did read War in Val d'Orcia - it's a wonderful suggestion for anyone interested in the area. What incredibly generous people the Origos were. Have you ever been to the Dopolavoro for a meal? We won't be in the area on a Wednesday (I think that's when La Foce's open to the public), but we're thinking of going to Dopolavoro.
Mar 14th, 2014, 03:47 PM
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bvlenci,
I appreciate what you are saying, but Le Marche is a natural military installation in and of itself so of course it has an overload of fortresses. But if you were just to look at place names in Tuscany you would see many many towns whose names along indicate they have a castle, and if you went sightseeing you would see they are not just little boxy houses but places with turrets and walls. One things of Chianti as being mainly a slew of castle towns.
karensantamonica,
One of the places I gave you a link to in your other thread about Chiusi and Pitigliano has been named officially by the Italian Touring Club as one of the best small towns in Italy (and it has a castle) --- it's Casciano dei Bagni -- and apparently it was founded by the Etruscan king of Chiusi. And it's got a big honking castle with shark's teeth running along the top of its tower and walls:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sa...niPanorama.JPG
That's in between Pienza and Pitigliano and practically no tourists go there.
I appreciate what you are saying, but Le Marche is a natural military installation in and of itself so of course it has an overload of fortresses. But if you were just to look at place names in Tuscany you would see many many towns whose names along indicate they have a castle, and if you went sightseeing you would see they are not just little boxy houses but places with turrets and walls. One things of Chianti as being mainly a slew of castle towns.
karensantamonica,
One of the places I gave you a link to in your other thread about Chiusi and Pitigliano has been named officially by the Italian Touring Club as one of the best small towns in Italy (and it has a castle) --- it's Casciano dei Bagni -- and apparently it was founded by the Etruscan king of Chiusi. And it's got a big honking castle with shark's teeth running along the top of its tower and walls:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sa...niPanorama.JPG
That's in between Pienza and Pitigliano and practically no tourists go there.
Mar 14th, 2014, 03:58 PM
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Holy wow, the castle at San Casciano dei Bagni sounds awesome. Shark teeth? That's pretty fearsome. Thanks, I'm getting a pretty solid list of castle/fortresses going and yes, it's on my list from the other thread. Can't wait. The Italian Touring Club website has been a good resource. I just ordered their Tuscany book from Amazon.
Mar 15th, 2014, 04:11 AM
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Hi again Karen,
You wrote: “I did read War in Val d'Orcia - it's a wonderful suggestion for anyone interested in the area. What incredibly generous people the Origos were. Have you ever been to the Dopolavoro for a meal?”
No. But I have traveled through southern Tuscany. Actually I have never been to La Foce either – just heard so much about it. By being open on Wednesdays, do you mean for the general public (those not staying at the agriturismo)?
I have an interest in Bernard Berenson, the ex-pat American art connoisseur who lived in the hills above Florence in the earlier part of the 20th century. He and the likes of the novelist Edith Wharton (money was no object) frequently “motored” throughout the region in the old days assessing the precious art in local churches, villas, and fortifications before the hordes of tourists like ourselves arrived. Such an interesting area…
You wrote: “I did read War in Val d'Orcia - it's a wonderful suggestion for anyone interested in the area. What incredibly generous people the Origos were. Have you ever been to the Dopolavoro for a meal?”
No. But I have traveled through southern Tuscany. Actually I have never been to La Foce either – just heard so much about it. By being open on Wednesdays, do you mean for the general public (those not staying at the agriturismo)?
I have an interest in Bernard Berenson, the ex-pat American art connoisseur who lived in the hills above Florence in the earlier part of the 20th century. He and the likes of the novelist Edith Wharton (money was no object) frequently “motored” throughout the region in the old days assessing the precious art in local churches, villas, and fortifications before the hordes of tourists like ourselves arrived. Such an interesting area…
