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-   -   Best Scenic Trains in Switz (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/best-scenic-trains-in-switz-456573/)

sandiedog Jul 5th, 2004 10:39 PM

Best Scenic Trains in Switz
 
I'm taking my mom to Switz for our first time in late August for a couple of weeks. I'd like to do 2 or 3 of the scenic train routes - which are the best that time of year. Also - is it worth it get the Swiss Saver Pass for something like this and are these trains covered under it? Is it best to get hotel rooms in between and spend a night in a couple of the major towns?

mberry Jul 6th, 2004 03:13 AM

I was looking for the same info a while back and found a long thread on scenic trains on Rick Steve's website (where you can also find what a Swiss pass will cover (vs. a Eurail pass w/Switzerland included). You should read (interpret) it yourself, but I remember that the Bernini Express was often named. Here are some links for more info:

Scenic Trains:

Glacier Express
http://www.glacierexpress.ch/

GoldenPass Line
http://www.mob.ch/GPS/accueil.htm?l=d

Bernina-Express <RhB>
http://www.rhb.ch/berninaexpress/berninaexpress.d.php

Brünigbahn <SBB>
http://www.bruenig.ch/html/region.asp

Centovalli <FART>
http://www.centovalli.ch/index_d.htm

Mont-Blanc-Express <TMR>
http://www.momc.ch/deutsch/mtBlanc.html

Saint-Bernard-Express <TMR>
http://www.momc.ch/deutsch/stBernard.html

Have a great trip!

swandav2000 Jul 6th, 2004 03:58 AM

Hi sandiedog,

As you can see from mberry's post, there are quite a lot of scenic trains in the area! We could help you more if you gave us an idea of your projected route and/or places of interest.

I've done the Golden Pass a few times (Montreux to Interlaken or on to Luzern) and really love it. I've also done the Bernina (Pontresina to Poschiavo) and thought it was the best. I've heard that the Glacier Express is overrated -- but do a text search here for more detailed information. Some of my friends love the Centovalli, especially when combined with a bike ride return (all downhill . . . !).

I think you ought to decide which area(s) of Switzerland you want to explore, then we can help you find the scenic routes nearby.

Let me know if I can help further.

s


jmw44 Jul 6th, 2004 04:33 AM

Hi, I agree with S' (surprise, surprise) that the route from Montreux to Interlaken and on to Lucerne (via the beautiful Brunig Pass) is a favorite. I also like the Lucerne to Lugano route, which (I think) can be via the William Tell Express, and can include a boatride. I don't know how many changes of hotels you're planning, but there's no need to break any of the scenic rides -- you can choose places to stay at the beginning and end of each.

As for the 'pass' issue, there are threads here where folks say you should map out your trips, total them up by using one of the rail sites (like sbb.ch), and then compare that total with the cost of the Saver Pass. They insist that you don't often 'break even.' However, if you are like me and train, boat, and bus the life out of that little card, it will indeed be 'worth it.' It just depends upon your travel style. Later and I'm so envious of your trip! J.

metlc Jul 6th, 2004 06:47 AM

I'll "third" Swanda's opinions.

The Golden Pass into Montreux is superb.

The Bernina Pass trip up out of Chur to Samedan and down into Poschiavo and Tirano is my favorite. Side trips to Davos and Arosa are a plus. And the associated Swiss bus from Tirano to Lugano around Como is interesting.

The Glacier Express is somewhat overrated. The best (and quickest) part is the eastern end near Chur.

Also worthy of note is the Zurich/Vienna segment from Sargens (near Chur) to Innsbruck.

All of these routes (including the easternmost part of the Glacier Express) are covered with a regular EurailPass.

When traveling these routes, take the regular (non-Panorama car) trains (unless you can get a front seat on the Golden Pass). They allow for open windows and are less crowded, which makes for a better trip in my experience.

dickv2 Jul 6th, 2004 07:10 AM

Good morning, sndiedog
Couple of my favorite for senic rail in Ch are.
The Bernina route from Triano to St. Moritz, have taken this a couple of times, once in a blizzard and enjoyed it at all times.
The route from St. Moritz. the Abula
Route to Filisur over and thru the Landwasser viaduct and tunnel.
The route from Luzern to Lugano goes thru some superb scenery.
Agree, tho enjoyable is that the Glacier Express is a bit too long and does get boring toward the end ...
Also that dining car reservations on theGlacier are seperate from those to get reservation on the train....
Richard of LaGrange Park, IL.

susanteach Jul 6th, 2004 07:14 AM

From recent experience, the best way to see as much of Switzerland as possible and not miss little towns either, is to make use of the Swiss Saver or Swiss Flexi-Pass, with which you can travel for an unlimited number of train or bus trips during a certain time period, beginning on the first trip you actually take (it's stamped the same way any Eurail pass is). We found that the pass also let us on many funiculars, mountain trains, trams...skyrides...whatever, and several museums free or with discounts.

mgmargate Jul 6th, 2004 07:20 AM

We took the Bernina and Galcier express trains in the Panaromic car.The views were something to remember.

sandiedog Jul 6th, 2004 07:23 AM

Would this be too ambitious of an itinerary? Arrive in Bern for a few days - then travel on the Golden Pass (south to north and perhaps pick it up mid-way) spend a couple of days in Zurich, then on to Garmisch and then train south to Italy via Innbruck?

swandav2000 Jul 6th, 2004 07:42 AM

Hi sandiedog,

Thanks so much for giving us more info!

So if you want to do the Golden Pass, here's what I'd suggest.

Fly into Geneva & spend a few days on a town or village on the lake (Morges, Vevey, or Montreux spring to mind). Then take the Golden Pass to Interlaken or on to Luzern and stay there a few days -- make the decision if you want to be right IN the mountains (stay in Wengen or Grindelwald) or if you want to be on a lake (stay in Luzern). Then go on to Zurich/Garmisch/Innsbruck/Italy. To me, this makes more sense than going Bern-Montreux-Zurich, which is backtracking. If you're only interested in mountain views, forget about the scenic train and just get a scenic hotel -- in Wengen or Grindelwald!!

Let us know if we can help further --

s


sandiedog Jul 6th, 2004 08:00 AM

This is such great info. Thanks for everyone's input. I already have plans to be in Bern with friends so perhaps a better itinerary for me is to start in Bern, then do the Bernina Express to Lugano and spend a couple of days in Lugano (is there much to do there?) and skip the Germany/Austria portion.
I'm just looking for an easy way to see as much of that part of Europe as possible. Any must sees that I'll miss out on with this itinerary?

swandav2000 Jul 6th, 2004 08:11 AM

Hi sandiedog,

Well, that's certainly a plan . . . do you know that getting from Bern to Pontresina (for the Bernina Express) will take about five hours by train? That's a whole wasted day of travel just to get to your start point! I think I'd go to Luzern and do the William Tell down to Lugano if I were you! I guess I consider Luzern to be a must-see for Switzerland, as is the Berner Oberland (villages of Wengen & Grindelwald). Will you get to the mountains while visiting your friends?

s

sandiedog Jul 6th, 2004 08:30 AM

We plan to do daytrips from Bern to Interlaken and Lucerne so I will see those areas. Am I getting too hung up on scenic train ride? Will we see enough of the scenery just on those daystrips? I'm just not familiar enough with Switz. Is it worth heading up to Garmisch from Bern? I hear that the trip from Garmisch through Innsbruck to Verona is a nice train trip.

swandav2000 Jul 6th, 2004 09:17 AM

sandiedog,

Yes, I think you're emphasizing the "scenic trains" too much. These "scenic trains" are pretty much a marketing device plus large windows; most trains in Switzerland are very scenic, especially those on your routes to the BO and around Luzern.

It's hard to compare mountains -- though of course we do!! A poster named Ingo prefers the Swiss alps to those in southern Germany, and I also prefer the Swiss mountains to those in Austria. Do a text search here to get a good perspective from other travelers' tips & trip reports.

As I said before, I think you ought to decide where you want to go before you decide the routing!! Tell us where you're going, and we'll help you find a scenic way to get there.

s

jmw44 Jul 7th, 2004 04:52 AM

Hi, Sandie. If I understand correctly, you are committed to staying several days in Bern, yes? (Did you catch S's mention that the Bernina Express does not begin in Bern? --with my apologies if you knew that already.)

Anyway, I'd suggest that you fit in Lucerne (or a town on its lake) as S' has described, and think of your three destinations as Bern, Lucerne, and Lugano. That's three very different views of Switzerland, and there are numerous daytrips possible from each. You will have beautiful scenery if you make sure that your rail route goes from Bern to Interlaken to Lucerne (which includes the Brunig Pass). As for heading south, you probably have two choices -- You can do the very pretty William Tell route from Lucerne to Lugano (and include the boat part if you wish), or you could probably go from Bern to Montreux and take that train route to Locarno and on to Lugano (IMO good views but not always a comfortable train). Of course, with that plan, you'd want to make a separate daytrip to Lucerne while in Bern. I'm rattling. I recommend the Brunig Pass route and the William Tell.
Good luck with your choices - so many wonderful places. J.

jmw44 Jul 7th, 2004 05:00 AM

p.s. Sandie, I just realized that we don't know where you are flying in and out of. Maybe we don't have the big picture. Is this trip intended to combine Switzerland with Germany, Austria, and Italy? Or was your original intention a trip to Switzerland, and now all sorts of other places are tempting you? (I can certainly understand how that can happen, especially if you're thinking this is a once in a lifetime thing for your Mom.) If you can tell us that, it may cause us to adjust our input.

As to your question re Lugano: It is related to Italy in atmosphere, language, cuisine, and it's a very beautiful, interesting town with picturesque villages nearby on its lake (Gandria, Morcote), and a town of castles just to the north (Bellinzona). But Ticino is not the Switzerland you see usually on calendars. J.

sandiedog Jul 7th, 2004 05:23 AM

I actually live in Milan - recently moved here - so I'll be going in and out of Milan area. But I'm not tied to any timeframe or itinerary. I like your suggestion about taking the William Tell down to Lugano - I can catch a train from anywhere back to Milan. Thanks!

usbeauty Jul 7th, 2004 05:59 AM

I too love trains, scenic or non-scenic, but what amazed and interested me about taking the Golden Pass last summer was the ride past Gstaad but before Lausanne through tiny Swiss villages barely found on a map. It was exhilarating, especially combined with the mountainous backdrop.

sandiedog Jul 13th, 2004 12:19 AM

Well, I've done some research based on all the info you all have provided and here's an option:

On our last day, we will take the train to Lucerne and spend a day there and then the following day get up and take the William Tell down to Lugano. One question - is Lucerne accessible on foot from the train station? Can anyone recommend a decent 3 star hotel in Lucerne that we can get to relatively easily?
Sound like a good plan?

dwzemens Jul 13th, 2004 02:21 AM

My wife and I walked from the station to the Hotel des Balances in 2002. We had LARGE rolling luggage, and will only have carry on size in the future!!

It was an easy walk, but the cobblestones hinder the rolling wheels a bit. The des Balances was a GREAT hotel. We had a room with a balcony directly across from the Jesuit Church, looking out on the river and covered bridges and on toward Lake Lucerne. It was only $150.00 in 2002, but I see it is about $350.00 t his year. All in all, it was our favorite hotel on that trip!


BTilke Jul 13th, 2004 02:34 AM

Sandiedog, I've done that route several times and it is very pretty! I recommend sitting on the right side of the train (as you leave Lucerne)...about an hour into the ride you go by a picturesque little village with a small church sitting alone on the top of a hill. Great photo op.
I am in Milan from time to time (I work for a company based in the Lambrate area on the east side)...perhaps we can get together for a cappuccino some day?

jmw44 Jul 13th, 2004 04:05 AM

Hi, Sandie. Lucerne is very convenient for visitors arriving via train; it is right there in front of you. It's a beautiful city. I'm topping this so you can receive some hotel recommendations. However, you might want to do a search re Lucerne to see which hotels have been previous favorites. J.

flygirl Jul 13th, 2004 05:13 AM

Hi

last month I took the Glacier Express from Zermatt to St. Moritz/Pontresina. It really was gorgeous, but 8 hours is quite a long time to sit on a train - scenery or not. Had I not a specific reason to go to "the other end" I wouldn't choose it again - unless maybe in a different season.

what can I say? ya gotta do it at least once.

I can't tell you a shorter/prettier one b/c that's the only 'scenic train' I've been on, in CH. (although I gotta say, my first train trip there 11 years ago was only selected for A-B, not scenes, and I was simply and completely blown away. first time, and all...)

if you would like to see some pictures, either email me or do a recent search on my name, I think I posted a picture link.

either way you will love it, it's a beautiful country. mondo cher though!

clevelandbrown Jul 13th, 2004 07:44 AM

We blundered onto the Golden pass while going from Gstaad to Montreaux for lunch. It (and the return) were very scenic, but I thought it was not more scenic than most of the trains we took in Switzerland. The ride from Milan to Spiez was our entrance into Switzerland, and will remain forever in my memory as a wonderful ride. From Spiez on to Bern, however, was pretty mundane after we passed Thun.

I spent a lot of time researching the question of pass vs. point to point tickets. We were staying in a remote village and used the trains (or busses or boats) every day, and by my calculations the passes cost just a tiny bit more than our planned trips; the pass did help, however, when we had to change plans because of weather, or whatever. I would not have gone to Montreaux for lunch if I had not had the pass.

sandiedog Jul 14th, 2004 09:06 AM

It's decided - I'm doing the William Tell from Lucerne to Lugano - but no the question becomes - Panorama car or the 2nd class? I've heard it's so great to open the windows but they're only in 2nd class.
What's the vote?

flygirl Jul 14th, 2004 10:27 AM

on the GE I took, they only had first class cars - panorama windows. bear in mind if it's sunny out, the sunny side can get dang warm! enough to make you wanna nap. I am glad the car wasn't very full, I kept switching.

I also have enjoyed the trains you can open up and watch the world go by. if the 2d class really does open, a nice bonus I'd say.

dwzemens Jul 14th, 2004 12:30 PM

For further reference about the distance from the train station to the Hotel des Balances in Lucerne, look at this photo:

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMG_0363.jpg

The train station is visible just past the boat docks in the top right of the photo, and the very attractive woman is sitting on a balcony of the Hotel des Balances.

I am telling you, that is an awesome hotel!

sandiedog Jul 14th, 2004 10:34 PM

The Des Balances does look nice but unfortunately they are booked.
I've booked the Villa Maria - anyone heard of it? The only other option is the Best Western Hotel FLora which is says is a short walk from town. Any feedback on these?

jmw44 Jul 15th, 2004 04:36 AM

If it's the pension Villa Maria, it's received good reactions here. I thought it sounded familiar so did a search, and all the comments are favorable. It is not a 'hotel' as such, if it is indeed the one you mean. I am the most devoted fan of Swiss two-star accommodations, so I'm of the opinion that you'll love it. J.

sandiedog Jul 30th, 2004 01:09 AM

I have one more question for any of you who have taken the William Tell. Is the 3 hour boat ride really worth it? It looks like the actual train ride is only 2 hours. Would I see just as much by taking the Lucerne-Lugano train direct which gets me home in 3 hours?

swandav2000 Jul 30th, 2004 03:54 AM

Hi sandiedog,

Well I think a ferry ride on the lake is really extraordinary! So if you manage to take a ferry cruise the day or evening that you get to Luzern, then you could just take the train down to Milan. But if you don't take the cruise separately, then do consider taking that "William Tell." The view from the middle of the lake out to the mountains on all sides, with quaint and picturesque villages dotting the hillsides, is just spectacular. Though I've only gone as far as the Ruetli meadow, I've heard that the best part is on toward Flueelen, which is how the WT goes (yes?). I just don't think that the train can duplicate that scenery!

Hope this helps!

s

Ingo Jul 30th, 2004 06:08 AM

Definitely take the boat to Fluelen. Much more scenic than the train.

One hint though regarding the fare: I don't think the fare of 160 something Sfr. for the Wilhelm-Tell-Express is worth the money (okay, it includes a lunch on the boat). I would buy single tickets for the boat (31 Sfr. 2nd class and 47 Sfr. 1st class) and the train (43/71 Sfr.) IMO 2nd class is good enough. At least it was for me.

Ingo

surfingmomma Aug 8th, 2004 07:11 AM

I'm going to have one full day (2 nights) in Varenna, and want to travel to switzerland. Any comments on how to get there/best scenic view/amount of time?
thanks
surfingmomma

Travelnut Aug 8th, 2004 07:34 AM

From what I can tell, Villa Maria is not near the old town, but is around the north side of the lake (zip 6006).

Hotel Flora is right IN Luzern, near the Kappelbrucke (zip 6002), and very walkable from the train station (300 meters).


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