Schuler and Swandav- thanks for clarifying Lugano. This is why I love the fodors travel board. NY Times travel archives and Slow Travel have had several glowing articles on Lugano so it gets confusing...

The four star Hotel La Rocca in Porto Ronco has air conditioning, "one meter beds" (!) and vacancies during the Jazz festival.
Rate for two is US $303. I spoke to the owner this morning- he said if we get a direct boat to Ascona the ride is about 20 mins but if we get one with many stops it could take up to one hr. Apparently we could also drive to the outskirts of Ascona- I forgot to ask him the driving time. The La Rocca gets excellent reviews on myswitzerland.com.

The owner said La Rocca faces Brissago Island and we could take a tour of the Botanical Gardens there. It sounds beautiful.
Schuler- does Porto Ronco appeal to you? The village only has 300 inhabitants.

Earlier in the month, before the Jazz Festival begins, Castello-Seeschloss has air conditioned rooms for $257-335. There aren't any reviews of the Seeschloss on myswitzerland but two good reviews on tripadvisor. I wish their website had crisper, less artistic photos.

Either hotel sounds great so we just have to decide on itinerary and crowds.

Thank you soooo much!

PS I made a mistake in an earlier post when I said "Eden Au Lac"- I meant to say Eden Roc which has rates of $432-470 for non suites. Someone said it's close to the Promenade, however, so it might be noisy during the Jazz Festival.

Porto Ronco doesn't have much charm, it is tiny and the road is busy/noisy. Ronco is located above the lake, some 800 steps or so (steep). Very small village, expensive, charming, gorgeous views. As far as I know the Hotel La Rocca is located between both villages. A bus runs frequently between Ascona and Porto Ronco (-Brissago). No need to take the ferry.

Yes, I like Lugano. You can stay in quiet neighbourhoods like Castagnola or Cassarate. Another poster here mentioned the 4star Hotel Lido (?) which should have A/C and is located right on the lake (Cassarate). Get a room with lake view and you'll be happy.

Wow Ingo- thanks so much. Very interesting info! It sounds as if the location of La Rocca would be OK but not ideal. I think I will go back to Ascona as first choice and second would be the suburbs of Lugano.

The Swiss Diamond Hotel in a Vico Morcote has a/c.

I wonder if we could live dangerously and only reserve hotels in super popular Ascona and Wengen. I really hate to get locked into places or dates while traveling. Both The Waldhaus and hotels in Gstaad seem very eager for our booking...

Swandav- do you think Eden Au Lac and hotels in Montreux and Vevey will book up for the end of June?

Every hotel I've contacted with the exception of Castagnola in Lugano has a minimum 14 day cancellation requirement.

I walked by Eden Roc many times. Beautiful hotel. Since it's located at the end of the promenade plus a bit, it still would be ideal. If you don't mind paying the price, I think you have the best hotel for your needs. And the best location. Gorgeous views! Exactly what you're looking for.

I'm jealous!

LOL Schuler- my husband and I are up for the splurge but the other couple who are more frugal will probably balk.

Would Castello-Seeschloss be your second choice in Ascona?
Castello del Sole and Giardino are definitely too expensive.

If it weren't for the lack of a/c I'd consider the more modest Al Porto or Riposo.
How much walking is there in Ascona? Can you take buses around town?

Our friend tore his knee cartilage and is currently limping around...

We need to get to Switzerland before we completely fall apart and are resigned to cruise ships :)

Ascona is a small town. When you take a bus, it's to get out of town. Or to get to your above mentioned hotels since they are out on the delta.

The Seeschloss is at the end of the promenade too. Very close to Eden Roc. It's a bit louder than the Eden Roc because there's a road that goes by...although not a very busy road. And the cars have to drive slowly since it's in town.

I've heard good things about this hotel too. Have fun making your decision!

Hi calville,

Well, of course it's hard to predict the future!!

That trip where I left Lugano and arrived in Montreux w/o reservations in May -- my first three choices for hotels were booked, and I ended up in Glion (ok, not a bad thing!). Apparently there is a comedy festival in Montreux in May that filled up the hotels.

So -- check the Montreux website (www.montreux.ch) to see if there are any festivals or events in town.

If you do make a reservation, you can always cancel it, can't you, if you decide to linger elsewhere?

s

Schuler- OK now I'm seeing Castello-Seeschloss didn't get the quiet symbol in the Michelin Guide.
I guess I can present that as an option to our friends-do you want quiet for $100 more or less quiet?
Casa Berno sounds great- too bad they don't have a/c.
I keep forgetting to ask how we get our luggage from the car park to the hotels. Are there no vehicles at all in Ascona?

Swandav-thanks for the festival info- we'll probably try to book the hotels in advance but they seem to want 50% if we cancel fewer than 14 days out.

Go to: http://map.search.ch/Ascona.de.html

It's a detail satellite map of Ascona with marked streets.

I'd show your friends both websites of the hotels. The two hotels are very different from each other. One is modern and the other is a castle. Both have their charm.

PS Schuler-at the Seeschloss is the road between the hotel and the lake or is the road to the side or the back of the hotel?
Ronco sounded so charming from Ingo's description but Porto Ronco not so ideal. Do you still prefer Seeschloss over La Rocca?

Thanks once again.
I will soon make my decision I promise!

I'd stay at the Seeschloss hotel. The location is great and there are no hills to deal with. You are at the edge of a small town and everything is in walking distance. You can drive to the hotel and unload your suitcase. You can have a glass of wine and not worry about driving afterwards. You have lots of restaurants to choose from. You are within 3 minutes walking distance from the ferry.

If you are worried about a noise, just ask for a quiet room.

Definately Seeschloss!

Thanks again Schuler- you always bring up points I forget about like drinking wine and not worrying about driving!
Thanks sooo much Schuler and everyone for your help!

LOL now it's on to restaurant selection- I will try to find from other sources first.

Hello folks. You've made my day. I love this thread about all my favorite places. I don't think I've read every step of the way, though, because I have to admit that my head is spinning. Bear with me here; are we driving or boat/train/bussing in Ticino?

Yes Ronco s. Ascona (sopra I think meaning above or near?) is lovely and VERY small and quiet, high above the lake with steps down to Porto where the boats dock. So if it's no car, then busses will be your transportation from Locarno. It sounds like you've narrowed to Ascona, which is a beautiful small resort, so follow schuler's advice. But maybe you could clarify for me the car or not issue? You can reach Ascona by the lakeboats, of course, (don't know how often the direct ones run, probably not so often) but also by numerous busses from the Locarno train station.

Even though it probably is no longer necessary, I'll add that I found Lugano to be a beautiful small city with arcaded streets, a gorgeous lakeside promenade, and one of my favorite church frescos (S. Maria Degli Angioli). But the place does bustle.

I cannot remember how many days you'll be on Lago Maggiore, but there are so many places to visit from there, including daytrips to Lugano (w/Gandria and Morcote), Bellinzona, and all the little secluded valleys. Ditto from Vevey or Montreux, oh my.

Did I mention (surely) that I stayed in the tiny and unairconditioned Hotel Panorama in Gerra-Gambarogno on Lago Maggiore, from where I could gaze at Ascona and Brissago across the blue-green water? Ahhhhh. Well, you'll be able to gaze in the opposite direction. Isn't life wonderful?

With great affection for my favorite fodorites who are assisting you as you plan. J.

And p.s. as I've just remembered the 'gourmand' part of your heading, - -

If you happen to be toodling around lago Maggiore by car, and would like to try lunch or early supper at my albergo Panorama, let me say that Axel Klomann is a wonderful cook, and I'm especially enchanted by his 'starters' (antipasti?): bresaola with tomatoes and wonderful olive oil, baked avocado with provolone (only my guess), cold veal with tuna sauce (vitello tunato -- at the risk of foolish spelling), and his canneloni with broccoli. OMG.

And while I'm on this topic, I intended to mention that, when you're in the Berner Oberland, (still on the itinerary?) the lakeside restaurants (on Brienzersee for sure) serve felchen filets, which I think might be little lake perch? Wonderful. Don't thank me; this is my pleasure, I am wallowing in taste memories here. J.

LOL JMW thanks for your enthusiasm and patience. I've been worried people are getting sick of my constant questions.

I've thoroughly looked at Gerra G and your adorable hotel and can see why you love it. So are there roads to get to it? It doesn't have to be by boat or train? I would love to have lunch or dinner there. How often does the train go past?
I also looked at Hotel Navegna which Catbert likes but alas it doesn't have a/c and someone else loved it but said the trains 3X per hr were too loud. Is the tranquilty of the Panorama disturbed by train whistles? What's the nationality of the other guests? I'd like to hear more about it- it looks enchanting.

The current plan is to fly into Lugano rather than Geneva to avoid the Jazz Festival in Ascona, rent a car, 3 nights in Ascona, 3-4 in Sils-Maria, 2 Wengen, 3 Gstaad, 2 Vevey, fly out of Geneva. What do you think? It's more stops than I had in mind but it's hard to narrow down when everything sounds so appealing.
I would love to get anymore restaurant recommendations from you. I'm still considering the Alpenrose in Gstaad.
I hope to book air and a few hotels by tomorrow.
Poschiavo sounds lovely- should we drive to Sils-Maria from Ascona via Poschiavo or a different route?

Do Fodorites approve of my itinerary?

Poschiavo *is* lovely! But I think you should drive Ascona - Lugano - Menaggio (Italy) - Chiavenna - short detour to Soglio - Sils-Maria.

Visit Poschiavo on an excursion with the Bernina Express. The Bernina pass ROAD is not half as spectacular as the RAILROAD - and so you can enjoy the gorgeous scenery around the Bernina Pass as well as charming Poschiavo.

As for restaurants - definitely have a meal in a Grotto near Ascona. These Grotti provide local specialties and ambience. Grotto di Rii is quite famous (in Intragna, Centovalli). In Ascona try restaurant Da Ivo, Via Collegio 5 in an old Patrician townhouse. Excellent local food.

By the way, on the drive Ascona - Sils-Maria I recommend to have a lunch in Soglio. Palazzo Salis has a wonderful garden and very good food.

The albergo Panorama is on the road which goes around the lake. The restaurant is closed on Wednesdays I think. calville, stick with schuler's recommendations re hotels in Ascona. I think they are probably are better suited to your expectations and mode of travel. My little albergo is a two-star with wonderful food. I think there might be a website for Gambarogno which details the various villages and their sights. But even I have to admit that the primary attractions are on the other side of the lake (Ascona, Ronco s. Ascona, Brissago and its isle, the valleys). But if you do have lunch or an early supper at the Panorama, please tell them that jmw sends her best wishes.

Your itinerary sounds wonderful. J.

Calville-

Wow, what a thread! My head is spinning from all the info everyone has given you! My husband and I are celebrating our 20th anniv. in July and have a flight booked into and out of Paris. After 3 nights there we want to take the train to Switzerland, but deciding just where to go is difficult, as you are experiencing! We have had the city of Bern suggested to us, but after reading all the info and looking into the many websites posted, I think I would like to go to Montreaux, the "Swiss Riviera". It sounds like a lot of fun and with great hotels, a coast with boating available, great scenery and reasonable rates for prime season. I have yet to discuss it with my husband and sympathize with you if you have 3 others who all have opinions! Good luck and have a wonderful trip!

For pks2000 -- remember that the world-famous Montreux Jazz Festival takes place in July (30 June - 15 July this year). Check it out at www.montreuxjazz.com. You should know that "reasonable" prices will skyrocket & the promenades will be crowded. You could stay in Vevey and escape most of the crowds (the ferries will probably be crowded all over the lake though).

For calville -- I fell in love with Poschiavo. It's lovely!

s

Swandav- thank you for the warning! I just phoned Eden au Lac and they are fully booked for June 30. I'm so glad we haven't purchased air yet since we need to make adjustments coming and going to avoid the jazz festivals in Ascona and now Montreux.
It would be fun to be in those areas during part of the festival..
Rates are 260CHF city view and 360CHF lake view before June 30.
I will phone du Lac in Vevey.