Bellissimo Rome, Amalfi Coast, Florence and Caserta: Our wonderful trip
Jun 16th, 2016, 09:48 AM
#21
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Yes, of all the hotels to wander into in Positano, we picked the best one!
Re: Caserta. The area/gardens in front of the palace were definitely in a run down state - they look like they need to be clipped and landscaped, as if they have been overgrown for quite a while. And the entrance area appears almost subway-like b/c it is cavernous and quite bare. And the food in the cafe was horrible. But I thought the palace rooms were stunning and if there areas of neglect, they weren't apparent to me. Maybe that was because I kept looking up at the amazing ceiling frescoes!
And the back gardens, with the amazing fountains, I thought appeared in much better shape. I am sure they could have been pruned better, but the fountains were impressive and I was I guess gawking at them instead of noticing the state of the gardens.
Caserta is, from what I read, a working class town, and it's not overly charming but it's "real". They do appear to have some serious issues, I did read that the area surrounding Caserta, between it and Naples, is become very polluted and cancer rates are high there. That is blamed on illegal toxic waste dumping by the mob:
https://www.theguardian.com/world/20...aly.sophiearie
Re: Caserta. The area/gardens in front of the palace were definitely in a run down state - they look like they need to be clipped and landscaped, as if they have been overgrown for quite a while. And the entrance area appears almost subway-like b/c it is cavernous and quite bare. And the food in the cafe was horrible. But I thought the palace rooms were stunning and if there areas of neglect, they weren't apparent to me. Maybe that was because I kept looking up at the amazing ceiling frescoes!
And the back gardens, with the amazing fountains, I thought appeared in much better shape. I am sure they could have been pruned better, but the fountains were impressive and I was I guess gawking at them instead of noticing the state of the gardens.
Caserta is, from what I read, a working class town, and it's not overly charming but it's "real". They do appear to have some serious issues, I did read that the area surrounding Caserta, between it and Naples, is become very polluted and cancer rates are high there. That is blamed on illegal toxic waste dumping by the mob:
https://www.theguardian.com/world/20...aly.sophiearie
Jun 16th, 2016, 09:53 AM
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Continuing on...
Sorrento First Choice Car Service – This is who we used for the all-day drive from Sorrento to Ravello and back. It was more pricey than the bus, but it allowed us to see significantly more. The views from the highway are amazing. We enjoyed our stops in Ravello, Positano and Amalfi. We did Ravello first, which was quiet and peaceful. The other two towns had significantly more people.
Captain Ago – this was the boat company for our Amalfi Coast by boat tour. We were on a boat with 7 other people (tours can go to 12 people, we were 10). I really liked our captain – he gave us a lot of history and info and we had unlimited limoncello, Proseco and beer. We were also offered sandwiches, but we chose to get lunch in Amalfi. With the boat, we got up close to see some sea caves (went inside one), my husband touched a waterfall and we went into a fjord-like area. In addition to stop at Amalfi and Positano, we also went into the Emerald Grotto. The water was a very vividly colored, and there were other cave formations in there. That tour (we paid separately for a 10 minute boat ride inside there) was hokey and touristy but I’m glad we went inside.
CAPRI
We visited this as a half day from Sorrento. Rome was mostly not crowded (except around the Trevi Fountain). Caserta is, I believe, pretty much off the tourist path and was quiet. The traffic along the Amalfi Coast was steady and busy but not impossible. Capri, in contrast, was crazy busy.
Instead of spending all day in Capri, we chose to sleep in and go over in the afternoon. (I have heard the Sorrento ferry dock is very busy in the morning). My husband bought us tickets in the town of Sorrento and we wanted the last boat (schedule said that was 6:30, but when we checked our tickets later that morning, we realized that the return was for 5:45), so we didn’t have a lot of time over there. We arrived to the Capri marina area and was able to purchase tickets and ride the funicular up to Capri-town with almost no lines.
Gardens of Augustus – there were not nearly as extensive as the gardens at Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, but what was here was very pretty. There are several viewpoints with spectacular views of the Capri coastline – the water is so many pretty shades of blue.
Capri-town. Truly awful. Narrow, very crowded, difficult to walk with very expensive stores. We were going to get gelato but the line was very long, so we just got in line for the bus to Anacapri.
Bus ride from Capri-town to Anacapri – this was like being on Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride! The bus was packed so we had to stand. (Truly, it wasn’t super busy on the Amalfi Coast when we were there, I can’t imagine Capri much more crowded than it was, but it must be in the summer).
Anacapri – we wandered around, got gelato here ,and visited the church Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo. It has a most unique mosaic tile floor. It is of the Garden of Eden and features many different animals. The colors were also interesting – it was mostly in shades of yellow, green, blue and white. From the second floor, you get a better view of the entire floor.
We noticed the line for the bus going back getting long, and we were afraid of not allowing enough time to get back to the ferry. So we went to wait in line. Two or three busses drove by without stopping (so if you go, make sure you try to catch the bus at its first stop). The bus stop was adjacent to a taxi stand, and we inquired about rates, which ranged from 25-35 Euro. Another couple was going to join us, but then she was put off by the 35 Euro fare. When we found someone to take us for 5 Euro each, she still balked, which was kind of baffling b/c the bus ride was 1.80. So we just rode down by ourselves – it was a lot faster and a lot more comfortable. In the 20 minutes we waited in line, I think 10 people got on a bus, the busses didn’t come frequently and some only went to Capri-town (we were going to the marina).
By this time the marina area was extremely crowded. Like I said, I can’t even imagine it during the height of the season. I am glad we saw Capri, and I readily admit we didn’t visit under the best circumstances (and with limited time), but I have little desire to return.
Sorrento First Choice Car Service – This is who we used for the all-day drive from Sorrento to Ravello and back. It was more pricey than the bus, but it allowed us to see significantly more. The views from the highway are amazing. We enjoyed our stops in Ravello, Positano and Amalfi. We did Ravello first, which was quiet and peaceful. The other two towns had significantly more people.
Captain Ago – this was the boat company for our Amalfi Coast by boat tour. We were on a boat with 7 other people (tours can go to 12 people, we were 10). I really liked our captain – he gave us a lot of history and info and we had unlimited limoncello, Proseco and beer. We were also offered sandwiches, but we chose to get lunch in Amalfi. With the boat, we got up close to see some sea caves (went inside one), my husband touched a waterfall and we went into a fjord-like area. In addition to stop at Amalfi and Positano, we also went into the Emerald Grotto. The water was a very vividly colored, and there were other cave formations in there. That tour (we paid separately for a 10 minute boat ride inside there) was hokey and touristy but I’m glad we went inside.
CAPRI
We visited this as a half day from Sorrento. Rome was mostly not crowded (except around the Trevi Fountain). Caserta is, I believe, pretty much off the tourist path and was quiet. The traffic along the Amalfi Coast was steady and busy but not impossible. Capri, in contrast, was crazy busy.
Instead of spending all day in Capri, we chose to sleep in and go over in the afternoon. (I have heard the Sorrento ferry dock is very busy in the morning). My husband bought us tickets in the town of Sorrento and we wanted the last boat (schedule said that was 6:30, but when we checked our tickets later that morning, we realized that the return was for 5:45), so we didn’t have a lot of time over there. We arrived to the Capri marina area and was able to purchase tickets and ride the funicular up to Capri-town with almost no lines.
Gardens of Augustus – there were not nearly as extensive as the gardens at Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, but what was here was very pretty. There are several viewpoints with spectacular views of the Capri coastline – the water is so many pretty shades of blue.
Capri-town. Truly awful. Narrow, very crowded, difficult to walk with very expensive stores. We were going to get gelato but the line was very long, so we just got in line for the bus to Anacapri.
Bus ride from Capri-town to Anacapri – this was like being on Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride! The bus was packed so we had to stand. (Truly, it wasn’t super busy on the Amalfi Coast when we were there, I can’t imagine Capri much more crowded than it was, but it must be in the summer).
Anacapri – we wandered around, got gelato here ,and visited the church Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo. It has a most unique mosaic tile floor. It is of the Garden of Eden and features many different animals. The colors were also interesting – it was mostly in shades of yellow, green, blue and white. From the second floor, you get a better view of the entire floor.
We noticed the line for the bus going back getting long, and we were afraid of not allowing enough time to get back to the ferry. So we went to wait in line. Two or three busses drove by without stopping (so if you go, make sure you try to catch the bus at its first stop). The bus stop was adjacent to a taxi stand, and we inquired about rates, which ranged from 25-35 Euro. Another couple was going to join us, but then she was put off by the 35 Euro fare. When we found someone to take us for 5 Euro each, she still balked, which was kind of baffling b/c the bus ride was 1.80. So we just rode down by ourselves – it was a lot faster and a lot more comfortable. In the 20 minutes we waited in line, I think 10 people got on a bus, the busses didn’t come frequently and some only went to Capri-town (we were going to the marina).
By this time the marina area was extremely crowded. Like I said, I can’t even imagine it during the height of the season. I am glad we saw Capri, and I readily admit we didn’t visit under the best circumstances (and with limited time), but I have little desire to return.
Jun 16th, 2016, 03:46 PM
#23
Excellent take on Capri. That's always been high on our list but we've heard how crowded it is, so thought we might want to stay on Capri for a couple of days for the early mornings and late afternoon & evenings when the tourists are lighter.
If we ever do this trip, that is the way we will go.
That said-----the coastline drive does call us and your detailed description of the area is most helpful.
Denisea----I'm with you. If we're going, we are staying at Le Sirenuse. For now it's back to Paris and a new adventure in Vienna.
If we ever do this trip, that is the way we will go.
That said-----the coastline drive does call us and your detailed description of the area is most helpful.
Denisea----I'm with you. If we're going, we are staying at Le Sirenuse. For now it's back to Paris and a new adventure in Vienna.
Jun 17th, 2016, 05:38 AM
#24
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Pompeii
We did this via our transport to Rome FCO from Sorrento. As I mentioned for our Capri visit, we had, to that point, not encountered crowds. We had not anticipated weekday crowds at Pompeii, and that was a misjudgment on our part.
As our driver pulled up to the entrance to Pompeii, he said “Oh. My. God”. Because the line was VERY long. Here is what I neglected to consider– the cruise ship crowds!
We had 2.5 hours here, we knew that would be short (even before we arrived), and it was. This was compounded by how confusing the site is to navigate. We did not go in blindly – we entered with 1) map torn out from guidebook; 2) booklet provided by Pompeii at entrance area; and 3) audio tour purchased at entrance.
The streets are barely labeled, there are no “you are here” maps anywhere throughout the site that we saw, and very few building labels. The map provided didn’t list points of interest, but broke the area up in regions labeled by Roman numerals. Further confusing us was that a significant portion of the site was fenced off. As we were wandering down the streets, for the areas were open to enter, it was difficult to determine if we were entering just an open area of ruin, or something actually worthwhile (i.e. some frescoes or gardens). We wasted so much time trying to figure out where we were and where we wanted to go. We searched for a while for the House of the Vetti (I did make a list of some areas I wanted to see) and we never found it. I believe it was closed, but we never really found where it was.
We also searched a while for the brothel. Even though we had an English booklet, it was not labeled as “brothel” on that map. There are very, very few employees around the site to ask, and we did find one inside one area. I asked her for directions and I handed her the map in the booklet. She looked at it and told me, “this is a bad map”. It was the one they gave us!!
So while the site is very interesting, we also found it frustrating and we didn’t see all that much. We did find the brothel, and the House of the Faun with its gardens. We also went into the laundry and their version of a “fast food” restaurant and found a few other areas with intact frescoes. This place must have been amazing in its day! We briefly wandered though the small museum and saw a plaster cast of one of the survivors and a beautifully painted shrine from one of the buildings.
I just looked at the recent tripadvisor reviews for Pompeii, and many note the crowds, so our experience was not atypical. So, if you go – arrange for some kind of reservation or line-skipping pass. The reviews also noted how challenging it was to navigate, so we weren’t the only ones to find the place confusing.
Another odd thing: in the forum type area, there is a modern art installation, which seemed really out of place. At first glance, some statues were part of the original site but upon closer look, were clearly not. (And I’m not one to say: art doesn’t belong in certain places. I’ve seen modern art installations in European churches, and while they were definitely out of place, they were actually kind of cool).
Next: Lodging and transportation info/ logistics
We did this via our transport to Rome FCO from Sorrento. As I mentioned for our Capri visit, we had, to that point, not encountered crowds. We had not anticipated weekday crowds at Pompeii, and that was a misjudgment on our part.
As our driver pulled up to the entrance to Pompeii, he said “Oh. My. God”. Because the line was VERY long. Here is what I neglected to consider– the cruise ship crowds!
We had 2.5 hours here, we knew that would be short (even before we arrived), and it was. This was compounded by how confusing the site is to navigate. We did not go in blindly – we entered with 1) map torn out from guidebook; 2) booklet provided by Pompeii at entrance area; and 3) audio tour purchased at entrance.
The streets are barely labeled, there are no “you are here” maps anywhere throughout the site that we saw, and very few building labels. The map provided didn’t list points of interest, but broke the area up in regions labeled by Roman numerals. Further confusing us was that a significant portion of the site was fenced off. As we were wandering down the streets, for the areas were open to enter, it was difficult to determine if we were entering just an open area of ruin, or something actually worthwhile (i.e. some frescoes or gardens). We wasted so much time trying to figure out where we were and where we wanted to go. We searched for a while for the House of the Vetti (I did make a list of some areas I wanted to see) and we never found it. I believe it was closed, but we never really found where it was.
We also searched a while for the brothel. Even though we had an English booklet, it was not labeled as “brothel” on that map. There are very, very few employees around the site to ask, and we did find one inside one area. I asked her for directions and I handed her the map in the booklet. She looked at it and told me, “this is a bad map”. It was the one they gave us!!
So while the site is very interesting, we also found it frustrating and we didn’t see all that much. We did find the brothel, and the House of the Faun with its gardens. We also went into the laundry and their version of a “fast food” restaurant and found a few other areas with intact frescoes. This place must have been amazing in its day! We briefly wandered though the small museum and saw a plaster cast of one of the survivors and a beautifully painted shrine from one of the buildings.
I just looked at the recent tripadvisor reviews for Pompeii, and many note the crowds, so our experience was not atypical. So, if you go – arrange for some kind of reservation or line-skipping pass. The reviews also noted how challenging it was to navigate, so we weren’t the only ones to find the place confusing.
Another odd thing: in the forum type area, there is a modern art installation, which seemed really out of place. At first glance, some statues were part of the original site but upon closer look, were clearly not. (And I’m not one to say: art doesn’t belong in certain places. I’ve seen modern art installations in European churches, and while they were definitely out of place, they were actually kind of cool).
Next: Lodging and transportation info/ logistics
Jun 17th, 2016, 02:09 PM
#26
Hi Philly, I'm in Rome now at the beginning of a three-week trip that has me traveling on well-worn as well as slightl-off-the-beaten-path areas. We will be going to Pompeii and I'm now concerned about crowds. I've never read anything about pre-booking, etc. Have you?
I completed my Roman Caravaggio hunt on my prior trip, but your report makes me want to revisit the churches...
We are staying in Ravello for a couple nights so I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks for the write-up!
I completed my Roman Caravaggio hunt on my prior trip, but your report makes me want to revisit the churches...
We are staying in Ravello for a couple nights so I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks for the write-up!
Jun 17th, 2016, 03:24 PM
#27
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Ooh, I am looking forward to hearing about your trip, Leely!!
It's so easy to peek in on many of the Carravaggios - go say Hi for me
I had not even considered pre booking for Pompeii. An (admittedly a few years old) Rick Steves guidebook said lines can be 30 minutes on busy days and I figured that was summer and weekends, bc we certainly hadn't encountered crowded conditions elsewhere on our whole trip (until Capri). But many recent tripadvisor reviews mention lines to buy tickets. There was a "skip the line" line, so it can be done, but I am not sure how. (Or maybe get there as soon as they open?)
Enjoy your trip, as I am sure you will!!
It's so easy to peek in on many of the Carravaggios - go say Hi for me
I had not even considered pre booking for Pompeii. An (admittedly a few years old) Rick Steves guidebook said lines can be 30 minutes on busy days and I figured that was summer and weekends, bc we certainly hadn't encountered crowded conditions elsewhere on our whole trip (until Capri). But many recent tripadvisor reviews mention lines to buy tickets. There was a "skip the line" line, so it can be done, but I am not sure how. (Or maybe get there as soon as they open?)
Enjoy your trip, as I am sure you will!!
Jun 17th, 2016, 04:35 PM
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Phillyfan,
Really enjoying your TR! I completely agree with you on. Capri, and I even stayed there for 2 nts in Anacapri! I loved discovering the Chiesa de San Micheleand its beautiful floor.
I have to say,the only parts pf Capri I liked were the gardens of Villa Agustus, the hike up to Villa Jovis and the 2 hour small boat ride around the island.
Really enjoying your TR! I completely agree with you on. Capri, and I even stayed there for 2 nts in Anacapri! I loved discovering the Chiesa de San Micheleand its beautiful floor.
I have to say,the only parts pf Capri I liked were the gardens of Villa Agustus, the hike up to Villa Jovis and the 2 hour small boat ride around the island.
Jun 17th, 2016, 05:33 PM
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PhillyFan:
Such an interesting description of each area! We have visited most of these Italian cities and towns, too, and it is fun to be taken back to all those memories! I loved Ravello!! Positano...oh, so upscale and pretty.
What is the name of the place where you stayed in Sorrento by recommendation of MikePinTuscon?
We went to Sorrento...back in 2012 and liked it. Bought our granddaughter a jewelry box for which they are famous.
We are planning another trip, and would appreciate the name of the property! Thank you.
Such an interesting description of each area! We have visited most of these Italian cities and towns, too, and it is fun to be taken back to all those memories! I loved Ravello!! Positano...oh, so upscale and pretty.
What is the name of the place where you stayed in Sorrento by recommendation of MikePinTuscon?
We went to Sorrento...back in 2012 and liked it. Bought our granddaughter a jewelry box for which they are famous.
We are planning another trip, and would appreciate the name of the property! Thank you.
Jun 19th, 2016, 06:13 AM
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We often traveled in March but still found long lines at the "big" touristy sites.
One of the problems in Pompeii was that continuing discoveries were making many maps obsolete. We were told (by a map seller--LOL) that some map sellers sold very old maps to begin with....
Great info, PhillyFan.
One of the problems in Pompeii was that continuing discoveries were making many maps obsolete. We were told (by a map seller--LOL) that some map sellers sold very old maps to begin with....
Great info, PhillyFan.
Jun 20th, 2016, 09:47 AM
#32
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Here is our lodging info:
Hotels/apartments:
Rome – Here we stayed in an apartment very close to Trevi Fountain. This was a most excellent location – it seemed everything was only a short walk away. One day, I toured two places and was back in the apartment before my son even woke up. It was a 2 bedroom with huge living area. The only glitch and it turned out to be minor - I confirmed in my very first email that it had AC, and it didn’t. It hadn’t been turned on yet. We were fortunate to have encountered mild and not hot weather, but I like AC during the night to be able to keep the windows closed. Our bedroom faced a courtyard which was quiet, but sounds from people walking by occasionally could be heard. (I tried to get prior recommendations for apartments in the Trevi area, but when I asked, everyone told me to stay in a different area. I am not sure why - this was a terrific location.)
Caserta – Hotel Royal Caserta. Excellent location – short walk from train and right next to the Royal Palace. Rooms were modern and clean. This had AC, but it barely worked. (We weren’t having much luck in that regard, haha).
Sorrento – apartment recommended by MikePinTuscon. This was a good location – a short walk to the main square/town center. It was on an upper floor and we had a balcony with water views. The quirk here was the elevator – it did have one (we were thankful for that) and it cost a nickel to use. We gladly fed those 5 Euro pieces into it!
arb152, here is the vrbo link to it:
https://www.vrbo.com/6406199ha?utm_c...m_medium=email
Best Western Rome Airport – we stayed here our last evening. Nice hotel, close to airport and with a shuttle.
Hotels/apartments:
Rome – Here we stayed in an apartment very close to Trevi Fountain. This was a most excellent location – it seemed everything was only a short walk away. One day, I toured two places and was back in the apartment before my son even woke up. It was a 2 bedroom with huge living area. The only glitch and it turned out to be minor - I confirmed in my very first email that it had AC, and it didn’t. It hadn’t been turned on yet. We were fortunate to have encountered mild and not hot weather, but I like AC during the night to be able to keep the windows closed. Our bedroom faced a courtyard which was quiet, but sounds from people walking by occasionally could be heard. (I tried to get prior recommendations for apartments in the Trevi area, but when I asked, everyone told me to stay in a different area. I am not sure why - this was a terrific location.)
Caserta – Hotel Royal Caserta. Excellent location – short walk from train and right next to the Royal Palace. Rooms were modern and clean. This had AC, but it barely worked. (We weren’t having much luck in that regard, haha).
Sorrento – apartment recommended by MikePinTuscon. This was a good location – a short walk to the main square/town center. It was on an upper floor and we had a balcony with water views. The quirk here was the elevator – it did have one (we were thankful for that) and it cost a nickel to use. We gladly fed those 5 Euro pieces into it!
arb152, here is the vrbo link to it:
https://www.vrbo.com/6406199ha?utm_c...m_medium=email
Best Western Rome Airport – we stayed here our last evening. Nice hotel, close to airport and with a shuttle.
Jun 23rd, 2016, 03:40 AM
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Transportation:
We did a lot of taxis/private transfers b/c we did not want to drive in Italy. To get from Sorrento to our hotel near FCO we used Astarita Car Service and our driver was a nice guy who didn't scare us while driving
Flying was thankfully uneventful; we appreciated having direct flights. In Rome, we did encounter increased security- we needed to show our passport several times, including just to get into the airport. We also had to separate all our electronics (phones, ipads, etc) and place them in a plastic bag they gave us.
My son brings his skateboard with him whenever we go somewhere. (We warned him he was going to have limited opportunities to skate on this trip). This time, after waiting quite a while to check our bags, we arrived at security to be told he could not bring his board onto the plane. We never encountered that before - including last year in Stockholm. So we had to go back to a different area of baggage check in to check the skateboard. Right in front of us in line was another kid with a longboard! lol My son was NOT happy about this. First, they put a luggage tag sticker right on the bottom of his board and he was worried it wouldnt' come off. Then, to check it, all they did was place it in a bin (the kind you place your stuff in to get through security screening). It wasn't exactly secure (at all!), but there wasn't anything else we could do. Upon arrival in PHL, he was most concerned that his skateboard would show up at baggage claim (I think he would have been fine with both our suitcases being lost instead of that board haha).
It came through, unscathed. My husband said the baggage handlers placed on the conveyor belt wheels down, so it came skating down the carousel at baggage claim. And thus happily ended our wonderful trip.
We did a lot of taxis/private transfers b/c we did not want to drive in Italy. To get from Sorrento to our hotel near FCO we used Astarita Car Service and our driver was a nice guy who didn't scare us while driving
Flying was thankfully uneventful; we appreciated having direct flights. In Rome, we did encounter increased security- we needed to show our passport several times, including just to get into the airport. We also had to separate all our electronics (phones, ipads, etc) and place them in a plastic bag they gave us.
My son brings his skateboard with him whenever we go somewhere. (We warned him he was going to have limited opportunities to skate on this trip). This time, after waiting quite a while to check our bags, we arrived at security to be told he could not bring his board onto the plane. We never encountered that before - including last year in Stockholm. So we had to go back to a different area of baggage check in to check the skateboard. Right in front of us in line was another kid with a longboard! lol My son was NOT happy about this. First, they put a luggage tag sticker right on the bottom of his board and he was worried it wouldnt' come off. Then, to check it, all they did was place it in a bin (the kind you place your stuff in to get through security screening). It wasn't exactly secure (at all!), but there wasn't anything else we could do. Upon arrival in PHL, he was most concerned that his skateboard would show up at baggage claim (I think he would have been fine with both our suitcases being lost instead of that board haha).
It came through, unscathed. My husband said the baggage handlers placed on the conveyor belt wheels down, so it came skating down the carousel at baggage claim. And thus happily ended our wonderful trip.
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