Belleville intrigues me
 

I don't want to sound like a total rube, but when I visit Paris this month I'd like to venture out, and one area that intrigues me is Belleville. Would a couple of Americans be OK there? I only ask because of something else I read here that intimated it wasn't the best neighborhood or something like that. I've been to Paris twice and have never had a problem with anyone, but I've never really ventured beyond the touristy areas. Thanks - and this is a sincere question, so sorry if it sounds really stupid.

To me, Belleville is just a working class neighborhood full of regular people. I do not know why you would not be "OK". It is not that pretty (sorry, IMHO) but if you want to walk around during the day, why not?
Did you see the film the Triplets of Belleville? :D

Yes, don't expect it to look anything at all like the neighborhoods in "Triplets of Belleville" :).

Thirza Vallois' series (Around and About Paris) has a walking tour of Belleville that would probably be good for identifying the highlights and keeping you out of any questionable areas.

I've been to Belleville and think you will be fine as a couple of Americans. I have been there alone and as a single woman was not particularly comfortable in some parts and was approached by a man once in an area where maybe I would not go again (a part of the park) -- not alone, anyway, but would with someone. Someone (male) made comments and remarks about me in another residential area which I overheard (not because he knew I was American, as he didn't, but because I was a female alone in a neighborhood where I did not look like most others in my ethnic background), but I didn't feel too unsafe. A lot of it wasn't really that great an area to visit, actually. The view from top of the park was kind of neat.

Christina is referring to the view at the end of rue des Envierges.

Well, maybe I'm thinking about someplace else. I was thinking it was more like - I don't even know how to describe it. I thought there were vineyards, and maybe more quaint homes and gardens... a bit of ruralness to it...maybe I just dreamed all this! LOL :-)

I don't think Belleville comes with vineyards.

cooncat:

Are you thinking of Deauville? It's a suburb (I think) and is quite charming.

You got me....Guess I better do some more research. ;-)

Deauville's on the coast.

Perhaps Montmartre? There's a vineyard and parts of it definitely have a village-like atmosphere, with houses draped in vines and flowers.

Well, I wonder what I'm thinking of. My (Parisian) friend recommended I try going there as it's an easy daytrip and very nice. I didn't think it was on the coast, though. I thought he said it was only an hour or so by train. I could have sworn it was Deauville.

Probably not Deauville, as Normandy doesn't have vineyards; that's where the fine cider comes from.

Within an hour of Paris is the Champagne region--perhaps that's it?

There are some parts of Belleville that you could call villagey, I suppose, and there are always some quaint homes in almost any part of Paris, I guess. For example, there was a street I walked down that was used in the film "Jules et Jim" which was cute enough -- that lasted a couple minutes. I do not think there are any vineyards there, though, and it's a part of Paris (in the 20th arrondisement), so it can't be what someone recommended as a train day trip. Maybe I am confusing these comments.

There were a few interesting things I saw, some older homes and architectural items -- I used the Michelin Green book which was fine for the highlights of things like that to see and a walking route. I would not describe the area as feeling rural at all. The parc de Belleville is pretty impressive, though, given it's such a big hill (which you have to climb up to get to the Maison de l'Air for the view). Lots of locals go there to just sit around on a Sunday or whatever. It was really hot when I was there, and I suppose they were trying to get some air or just get out of their little non-ACd apartments.

Here is a pretty good description from jack-travel of a walk in the area, it's fairly similar to what I did
http://www.jack-travel.com/Paris/Par...elleville1.htm

I don't think that animated film had anything to do with the Belleville in Paris, though -- I think they just picked that name because it is so generic.

<i>This is from DiscoverParis.net.
I have a magazine, I think it is an old Travel and Leisure that has photos of the vineyards in Belleville. </i>

The Parc de Belleville is now home to a small, working vineyard called the Clos des Envierges. It was established in remembrance of the times when vineyards flourished on the hill and drinking establishments served the guinguet, or sour wine, that was produced from local grapes. The word guinguet was eventually used as the name of the bars and taverns themselves, and the area soon became renown for a lively tradition of drinking and debauchery. During the 19th century, the descent of drunken Mardi Gras revelers down the hill to Paris on the morning of Ash Wednesday became an annual event.

Here is a photo album by David Henry:

http://www.davidphenry.com/belleville/index.htm

Edith Piaf was born and lived in Belleville before she and her beautiful voice were &quot;discovered&quot;. There is a small museum dedicated to her somewhere in that area. Also, Maurice Chevalier grew up near Belleville, in Menilmontant. I once read an interesting autobiography by him, mostly about his poor childhood in that area. He said he had never even been to Paris until his late teens, or something like that! From what I've read, Belleville and Menilmontant were once villages alot like Montmartre. Belleville kind of intrigues me, too!

Thanks for the lively discussion. Nice photo link! I wish I could really remember what area I was thinking about. I read about it in Conde Nast Traveler several years ago. I'll have to check my collection. If I figure it out, I'll let you all know!
Sharon

You might enjoy the fine mystery &quot;Murder in Belleville&quot; by Cara Black, who has a series set in and around Paris.

cooncat, it was Belleville that you read about. I have that Conde Nast Traveler:)
The show photos of the narrow winding streets, the stone walls and the vineyards.
I always wanted to see that area too, but there is never enough time!
Go, have fun and please , report on it!
((F))

YES Scarlett, exactement! It showed a kind of a cobblestone narrow street, plants hanging from the houses, very bucolic as I recall!