Beautiful Germany & Austria by train, bus, and on foot!
Jul 22nd, 2011, 08:01 PM
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Beautiful Germany & Austria by train, bus, and on foot!
First off, I must thank several people on this board for their recommendations, especially BettyK, whose guidance was especially helpful. I would have completely missed the steam engine train ride up for spectacular views from above St. Wolfgang, had she not mentioned it to me. Also, several advised skipping Appenzell this trip (at the end) and adding more time to Mittenwald and Meersburg. I was also glad I did that, as I was getting fairly tired of moving by the end.
I traveled through Germany and Austria on my own via train or bus for just over 3 weeks.
Favorite hotels this trip:
Hotel Altkolnischer Hof, Bacharach (request a balcony). Family owned -- very nice people. Even the kids are helpful. I had a nice room with lovely balcony. Their restaurant serves very good dinner and breakfast.
Heritage Hotel, Hallstatt. A rather large 4 star establishment -- all new. I was upgraded to a jr. suite upon arrival. Incredible views of the lake from my room and balcony.
Hotel Orphee, Regensberg. I was given a beautiful room with a four-poster bed. Very French in decor. Staff is very friendly and helpful. They paid for my lunch because my room wasn’t ready when I arrived (before check in).
Hotel Zum Baeren, Meersburg. I had a lovely wallpapered room here. The only downside is no WiFi or Internet service available (also, no elevator).
Hotel Kindli, Zurich. This was a splurge for me, but what a charming hotel! It was the most comfortable bed of any on the trip. I booked a single room, but the bed was lovely (like a full, here, not a twin pushed next to a wall), and the room was plenty spacious for a single. The room wallpaper, and other decor was extremely tasteful, and loved the retro (but all new) style of the bathroom, and stylish dark wood flooring in the bathroom.
Day 1: Bacharach am Rhein
Arrived at this Rhineland village at around 5:45 pm after landing in Frankfurt. It was pouring rain, but I was instantly enchanted with this village perched majestically on the Rhine. What a fairy tale town this is with one “gingerbread house” after another.
The Altkolnischer Hof ended up being one of my favorite hotels this trip. I loved the roomy balcony with cushioned patio furniture with views of the medieval Altes Haus in the main square. I also thought the restaurant food was good, and the wine they served here was the best of my trip.
Day 2: My first full day in Bacharach, and it was still raining. I decided to take it easy since I was still recovering from jet lag, but wish now I had gone off down the Rhine to visit some other towns. Had I done that I would have avoided a painful fall on some slippery stone steps coming down from the castle, the painful effects of which, stayed with me for most of my trip. I’m glad I packed some Advil. The hotel owners also offered me an ice pack.
Day 3: Cochem, Germany
Hotel Lohspeicher
This hotel was a splurge for me. The couple who own and run this are very nice, and since I booked half board, was able to experience 4 course dining at their outstanding gourmet restaurant. I also enjoyed their beer garden, just across from the entrance, also available for dining on warm evenings.
I chose Cochem over the smaller villages of the Mosel, since it is easily accessible by train, but if you are traveling by car, one of the smaller towns like Beilstein would be preferable, as Cochem is more of a city, packed with tourists in the high season. I did notice that things were much quieter in the evenings, so I’m sure many of these tourists were just in for the day, most likely from a cruise liner.
Day 4: It was a beautiful, sunny (and hot) day, so decided this should be the day for my hike to Burg Eltz castle. I went over the directions in my mind (that I had read online) many times. I took the train to Moselkern, and found the signs pointing to Burg Eltz. The hike through the town was longer than I anticipated (on a paved road -- not very scenic) and since it was quite hot at this point and there was no shade, it was not enjoyable (this part took about 45 minutes). By the time I got to the “Inn” with restaurant, I was ready to sit down to some cold refreshment, which I did. Others I met on the path had told me in their limited English to just keep walking on, I would see the trail to the castle. When I finally saw the trailhead, there was a big sign out that said the castle was undergoing some structural renovation, etc. “Hmmm,” I wondered what this meant in terms of my interest in photographing this medieval edifice. But I didn’t think it would be much of an issue. I had planned for this excursion for months. I bought REI hiking shoes mainly for this purpose, and had a DSLR camera and heavy lens in my backpack. It must have been over 90 degrees, and a mostly uphill climb (total walk is about 90 minutes from the station). Imagine my surprise then, when I rounded a certain bend and saw the first glimpse of the castle, COMPLETELY covered in white netting material and scaffolding. I truly wish I had captured a photo of this first vision.... After I arrived at the ticket office, I asked if there was another side of the castle I could photograph. “No, it’s covered all around. This will give you a reason to come back and visit us again,” the woman said, as the perspiration dripped down my face. After taking the tour inside, first in German, then in English, I managed to get a few shots of the other side, only partially covered (but the worst possible lighting, as the sun was pointed straight at me).
I met a Canadian couple on the train ride out from Cochem (who decided to look for a taxi ride up). I ran into them again inside the castle, and we decided to split cab fare for the trip down. I was in no mood for more hiking (at this point it felt like a 105 F; it was muggy).
Day 5: Excursion to Bonn to visit Beethoven Haus (birth house of Ludwig Van Beethoven). I’m so glad I made the effort to get here. I recently read a biography of Beethoven, and have been listening to many of his compositions. They had many of his instruments on display, including one of his pianos, his beautiful desk, his glasses, his ear trumpets (which had been custom designed to help him hear), handwritten materials, and scores.
I'll post the first photos tomorrow.
I traveled through Germany and Austria on my own via train or bus for just over 3 weeks.
Favorite hotels this trip:
Hotel Altkolnischer Hof, Bacharach (request a balcony). Family owned -- very nice people. Even the kids are helpful. I had a nice room with lovely balcony. Their restaurant serves very good dinner and breakfast.
Heritage Hotel, Hallstatt. A rather large 4 star establishment -- all new. I was upgraded to a jr. suite upon arrival. Incredible views of the lake from my room and balcony.
Hotel Orphee, Regensberg. I was given a beautiful room with a four-poster bed. Very French in decor. Staff is very friendly and helpful. They paid for my lunch because my room wasn’t ready when I arrived (before check in).
Hotel Zum Baeren, Meersburg. I had a lovely wallpapered room here. The only downside is no WiFi or Internet service available (also, no elevator).
Hotel Kindli, Zurich. This was a splurge for me, but what a charming hotel! It was the most comfortable bed of any on the trip. I booked a single room, but the bed was lovely (like a full, here, not a twin pushed next to a wall), and the room was plenty spacious for a single. The room wallpaper, and other decor was extremely tasteful, and loved the retro (but all new) style of the bathroom, and stylish dark wood flooring in the bathroom.
Day 1: Bacharach am Rhein
Arrived at this Rhineland village at around 5:45 pm after landing in Frankfurt. It was pouring rain, but I was instantly enchanted with this village perched majestically on the Rhine. What a fairy tale town this is with one “gingerbread house” after another.
The Altkolnischer Hof ended up being one of my favorite hotels this trip. I loved the roomy balcony with cushioned patio furniture with views of the medieval Altes Haus in the main square. I also thought the restaurant food was good, and the wine they served here was the best of my trip.
Day 2: My first full day in Bacharach, and it was still raining. I decided to take it easy since I was still recovering from jet lag, but wish now I had gone off down the Rhine to visit some other towns. Had I done that I would have avoided a painful fall on some slippery stone steps coming down from the castle, the painful effects of which, stayed with me for most of my trip. I’m glad I packed some Advil. The hotel owners also offered me an ice pack.
Day 3: Cochem, Germany
Hotel Lohspeicher
This hotel was a splurge for me. The couple who own and run this are very nice, and since I booked half board, was able to experience 4 course dining at their outstanding gourmet restaurant. I also enjoyed their beer garden, just across from the entrance, also available for dining on warm evenings.
I chose Cochem over the smaller villages of the Mosel, since it is easily accessible by train, but if you are traveling by car, one of the smaller towns like Beilstein would be preferable, as Cochem is more of a city, packed with tourists in the high season. I did notice that things were much quieter in the evenings, so I’m sure many of these tourists were just in for the day, most likely from a cruise liner.
Day 4: It was a beautiful, sunny (and hot) day, so decided this should be the day for my hike to Burg Eltz castle. I went over the directions in my mind (that I had read online) many times. I took the train to Moselkern, and found the signs pointing to Burg Eltz. The hike through the town was longer than I anticipated (on a paved road -- not very scenic) and since it was quite hot at this point and there was no shade, it was not enjoyable (this part took about 45 minutes). By the time I got to the “Inn” with restaurant, I was ready to sit down to some cold refreshment, which I did. Others I met on the path had told me in their limited English to just keep walking on, I would see the trail to the castle. When I finally saw the trailhead, there was a big sign out that said the castle was undergoing some structural renovation, etc. “Hmmm,” I wondered what this meant in terms of my interest in photographing this medieval edifice. But I didn’t think it would be much of an issue. I had planned for this excursion for months. I bought REI hiking shoes mainly for this purpose, and had a DSLR camera and heavy lens in my backpack. It must have been over 90 degrees, and a mostly uphill climb (total walk is about 90 minutes from the station). Imagine my surprise then, when I rounded a certain bend and saw the first glimpse of the castle, COMPLETELY covered in white netting material and scaffolding. I truly wish I had captured a photo of this first vision.... After I arrived at the ticket office, I asked if there was another side of the castle I could photograph. “No, it’s covered all around. This will give you a reason to come back and visit us again,” the woman said, as the perspiration dripped down my face. After taking the tour inside, first in German, then in English, I managed to get a few shots of the other side, only partially covered (but the worst possible lighting, as the sun was pointed straight at me).
I met a Canadian couple on the train ride out from Cochem (who decided to look for a taxi ride up). I ran into them again inside the castle, and we decided to split cab fare for the trip down. I was in no mood for more hiking (at this point it felt like a 105 F; it was muggy).
Day 5: Excursion to Bonn to visit Beethoven Haus (birth house of Ludwig Van Beethoven). I’m so glad I made the effort to get here. I recently read a biography of Beethoven, and have been listening to many of his compositions. They had many of his instruments on display, including one of his pianos, his beautiful desk, his glasses, his ear trumpets (which had been custom designed to help him hear), handwritten materials, and scores.
I'll post the first photos tomorrow.
Jul 23rd, 2011, 09:12 AM
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Day 7: Rothenburg
Romantick Hotel Markumsturm
I left my hotel in Cochem by 9:30, hoping to catch the 9:59 train to Koblenz, and then on to several more connections to get to Rothenburg. As I boarded the train in Cochem, my Gucci sunglasses fell out of my purse and landed on the rocks below the platform (near the tracks). The train was already late, my baggage was on board, and they wouldn’t let me get off to retrieve them. A very kind German woman saw what happened and instructed me to leave my suitcase by my seat (she insisted no one would bother it) as we set off to look for the conductor. She negotiated with train personnel to have someone bring the glasses on the next train to Koblenz. Suddenly, three police officers in official uniform approached me aboard the train, “Are you Susan B****?” (I thought, “What on earth is going on??”). He then explained that I had left a suitcase unattended and it’s a big problem. They escorted me back to my baggage which one young officer was dutifully guarding. (note: I never leave my bags unattended. It was the local woman’s insistence that it would be okay, and those glasses, that altered my thinking. My valuables were on my back)
When the train arrived at Koblenz, I was instructed to wait (for one hour) at a certain platform. But when that train came, I couldn’t find anyone on board like a conductor or ticket puncher who knew anything about my glasses. I went to the DB office at the station, but the fellow behind the counter wasn’t very helpful. He gave me a lost and found phone number, which I never called. It felt like a lost cause. The next train to Frankfurt was 15 minutes late, which made me miss the next connection to Wurzburg. It was a VERY long day of stations, lugging suitcase and backpack down and up flights of stairs to change platforms... and finally ending up in charming Rothenburg at 6:30 pm. Lots of time lost, and without the retrieved sunglasses to make up for it, but I did file the experience under “lessons learned.”
I hadn’t seen Rothenburg since I was on a choir tour of Europe at 17. It was rather a thrill to walk through the streets, early evening, after I arrived. It may be heavily touristed during the day, but it’s such a feast for the eyes.
Day 8: Spent most of my free day there wandering the streets, walking around the wall, visiting the gardens. I very much enjoyed seeing Tilman Riemenschneider’s The Last Supper at St. Jacob’s church (a couple days later, I saw Riemenschneider’s exquisite scuptural rendering of a king and queen on their tombs inside St. Jacob’s cathedral in Bamberg).
I thoroughly enjoyed the Night Watchman Tour! What a character! If there was a downside, there were a few too many people on my tour, but it was okay.
Romantick Hotel Markumsturm
I left my hotel in Cochem by 9:30, hoping to catch the 9:59 train to Koblenz, and then on to several more connections to get to Rothenburg. As I boarded the train in Cochem, my Gucci sunglasses fell out of my purse and landed on the rocks below the platform (near the tracks). The train was already late, my baggage was on board, and they wouldn’t let me get off to retrieve them. A very kind German woman saw what happened and instructed me to leave my suitcase by my seat (she insisted no one would bother it) as we set off to look for the conductor. She negotiated with train personnel to have someone bring the glasses on the next train to Koblenz. Suddenly, three police officers in official uniform approached me aboard the train, “Are you Susan B****?” (I thought, “What on earth is going on??”). He then explained that I had left a suitcase unattended and it’s a big problem. They escorted me back to my baggage which one young officer was dutifully guarding. (note: I never leave my bags unattended. It was the local woman’s insistence that it would be okay, and those glasses, that altered my thinking. My valuables were on my back)
When the train arrived at Koblenz, I was instructed to wait (for one hour) at a certain platform. But when that train came, I couldn’t find anyone on board like a conductor or ticket puncher who knew anything about my glasses. I went to the DB office at the station, but the fellow behind the counter wasn’t very helpful. He gave me a lost and found phone number, which I never called. It felt like a lost cause. The next train to Frankfurt was 15 minutes late, which made me miss the next connection to Wurzburg. It was a VERY long day of stations, lugging suitcase and backpack down and up flights of stairs to change platforms... and finally ending up in charming Rothenburg at 6:30 pm. Lots of time lost, and without the retrieved sunglasses to make up for it, but I did file the experience under “lessons learned.”
I hadn’t seen Rothenburg since I was on a choir tour of Europe at 17. It was rather a thrill to walk through the streets, early evening, after I arrived. It may be heavily touristed during the day, but it’s such a feast for the eyes.
Day 8: Spent most of my free day there wandering the streets, walking around the wall, visiting the gardens. I very much enjoyed seeing Tilman Riemenschneider’s The Last Supper at St. Jacob’s church (a couple days later, I saw Riemenschneider’s exquisite scuptural rendering of a king and queen on their tombs inside St. Jacob’s cathedral in Bamberg).
I thoroughly enjoyed the Night Watchman Tour! What a character! If there was a downside, there were a few too many people on my tour, but it was okay.
Jul 23rd, 2011, 09:38 AM
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Here are my photos from Rhine, Mosel region. I'll post more later.
http://www.pbase.com/scbowen/germany__austria_2011
http://www.pbase.com/scbowen/germany__austria_2011
Jul 23rd, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Day 9: Bamberg, Germany
Hotel Brudermuehle
The train connections from Rothenburg ODT to Bamberg were fairly easy, making for a shorter travel day. That said, the station was fairly packed (as was my train car) with middle school kids who had been on a “field trip” to RODT. When the train pulled in at Steinach, each traincar doorway was blocked by men with bicycles, who indicated with hands “no more room.” I saw the teacher (and many of his students) getting on despite that, so I followed suit. It turned out to be standing room only with my luggage, and one of the bicycle folks made a less than kind comment. Got into a nice conversation with the teacher of these kids. He had taken his 30 13-year old students to RODT for 3 nights. That’s dedication! He was very kind in helping me off the train with my luggage.
I must comment on all the unsolicited help I received at train stations. I lost count of the times kind locals would carry my suitcase up a flight of stairs to the next platform. I had a heavy backpack on as well (with my camera and lenses), which proved too much to handle on this trip (again, filed under “lessons learned”).
Bamberg is a beautiful city, but for some reason, I just didn’t have an affinity for this place. It was fairly overrun with tourists the weekend I was there, I believe, in part, due to some sort of festival going on (involving boats).
The old Rathaus right on the river is a feast for the eyes.
It was cold (very cold) and rainy much of my time here (the first days of July). I recall wearing 2 thermal tops, with fleece over that!
Day 10: Toured the Neue Residence and rose gardens there (for rooftops of Bamberg shots you will see in my photo gallery).
Also just happened to catch a pipe organ concert at St. Jacob’s cathedral (after viewing the Riemenscheider artwork decorating the tombs of medieval king and queen).
Day 11: one night in Regensburg
Hotel Orphee
It rained the entire time I was here. I was hopeful of getting some early morning or early evening shots of the 12th century stone bridge leading to the old town. The constant rain made that a challenge, but I managed to get a few shots, though the light was not great for photography.
I wasn’t super impressed with Regensburg. I think I just prefer small, quaint villages to cities.
Hotel Brudermuehle
The train connections from Rothenburg ODT to Bamberg were fairly easy, making for a shorter travel day. That said, the station was fairly packed (as was my train car) with middle school kids who had been on a “field trip” to RODT. When the train pulled in at Steinach, each traincar doorway was blocked by men with bicycles, who indicated with hands “no more room.” I saw the teacher (and many of his students) getting on despite that, so I followed suit. It turned out to be standing room only with my luggage, and one of the bicycle folks made a less than kind comment. Got into a nice conversation with the teacher of these kids. He had taken his 30 13-year old students to RODT for 3 nights. That’s dedication! He was very kind in helping me off the train with my luggage.
I must comment on all the unsolicited help I received at train stations. I lost count of the times kind locals would carry my suitcase up a flight of stairs to the next platform. I had a heavy backpack on as well (with my camera and lenses), which proved too much to handle on this trip (again, filed under “lessons learned”).
Bamberg is a beautiful city, but for some reason, I just didn’t have an affinity for this place. It was fairly overrun with tourists the weekend I was there, I believe, in part, due to some sort of festival going on (involving boats).
The old Rathaus right on the river is a feast for the eyes.
It was cold (very cold) and rainy much of my time here (the first days of July). I recall wearing 2 thermal tops, with fleece over that!
Day 10: Toured the Neue Residence and rose gardens there (for rooftops of Bamberg shots you will see in my photo gallery).
Also just happened to catch a pipe organ concert at St. Jacob’s cathedral (after viewing the Riemenscheider artwork decorating the tombs of medieval king and queen).
Day 11: one night in Regensburg
Hotel Orphee
It rained the entire time I was here. I was hopeful of getting some early morning or early evening shots of the 12th century stone bridge leading to the old town. The constant rain made that a challenge, but I managed to get a few shots, though the light was not great for photography.
I wasn’t super impressed with Regensburg. I think I just prefer small, quaint villages to cities.
Jul 23rd, 2011, 04:49 PM
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Day 11, again:
I forgot to mention an unexpected experience aboard the train to Regensburg. About halfway through the journey, an announcement came over the loudspeaker in German, after which everyone aboard started lining up to get off. After a few minutes of watching this, I asked someone what was going on. She said there had been an accident ahead and that everyone would have to disembark and that a bus would be waiting for the trip to Regensburg. The first bus was already filled. The second bus (and there wasn't a third) was filling fast. On my way up the narrow, steep stairsteps to board the bus, my weight of my backpack caused me to "fall" at fast speed to a complete squat. My knees were at my chin. I heard an "Ohhhh" from two women behind, one of whom attempted to remove my backpack, so I could stand. I was okay, but it was a bit scary. After that, I decided to place camera equipment in my suitcase, which proved helpful. I plan to bring half the weight next time. It was standing room only (I was one of the last to board) .... for approx 45 minutes.
More photos on the way....
I forgot to mention an unexpected experience aboard the train to Regensburg. About halfway through the journey, an announcement came over the loudspeaker in German, after which everyone aboard started lining up to get off. After a few minutes of watching this, I asked someone what was going on. She said there had been an accident ahead and that everyone would have to disembark and that a bus would be waiting for the trip to Regensburg. The first bus was already filled. The second bus (and there wasn't a third) was filling fast. On my way up the narrow, steep stairsteps to board the bus, my weight of my backpack caused me to "fall" at fast speed to a complete squat. My knees were at my chin. I heard an "Ohhhh" from two women behind, one of whom attempted to remove my backpack, so I could stand. I was okay, but it was a bit scary. After that, I decided to place camera equipment in my suitcase, which proved helpful. I plan to bring half the weight next time. It was standing room only (I was one of the last to board) .... for approx 45 minutes.
More photos on the way....
Jul 23rd, 2011, 08:31 PM
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Loved the report and the photos, Susan, thank you. I remember driving from Koeln to Cochem about 10 years ago, in winter, and Burg Elz was covered in scaffolding then! Guess it does take time!
You sound as though you are enjoying your trip despite problems. Too much luggage and no sunglasses in July! We were there last July (when the World Cup Soccer was on) and it was over 100 for days on end. Air conditioning was a big problem on the trains then - hope it is fixed.
You sound as though you are enjoying your trip despite problems. Too much luggage and no sunglasses in July! We were there last July (when the World Cup Soccer was on) and it was over 100 for days on end. Air conditioning was a big problem on the trains then - hope it is fixed.
Jul 23rd, 2011, 09:19 PM
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Hi Carrabella --
Wow. You experienced scaffolding 10 years ago, as well. I guess to preserve the place adequately, this becomes a necessity. I just picked the wrong year to visit
. If my foresight had been as clear as my hindsight, I would have taken a ferry to Beilstein that day instead. It was really too hot to be out hiking, anyway.
The intercity trains are usually air conditioned. The regional ones are not. There were some uncomfortable moments aboard some of the trains for that reason, but it was mostly okay.
Thanks for commenting!
Wow. You experienced scaffolding 10 years ago, as well. I guess to preserve the place adequately, this becomes a necessity. I just picked the wrong year to visit
. If my foresight had been as clear as my hindsight, I would have taken a ferry to Beilstein that day instead. It was really too hot to be out hiking, anyway. The intercity trains are usually air conditioned. The regional ones are not. There were some uncomfortable moments aboard some of the trains for that reason, but it was mostly okay.
Thanks for commenting!
Jul 24th, 2011, 12:19 AM
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I love how you traveled the place in all possible ways. Most impressed that you did tour around by foot. Walking around the place is lovely. Makes you appreciate the place even more. Thank you for sharing your experience with us.
Jul 24th, 2011, 06:06 AM
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Hi Harrison,
I did a "walking tour" about 20 years ago with a walking company based in England. I combined two "tours" - max 9 people. The first week -- I did the walks through Scotland tour, the second, was Northumberland. I'll never forget those walks. It was like no other experience I've had abroad or here. One day we walked 13 miles through beautiful, remote country you can't get to by car.
Thanks for commenting on my report. S
I did a "walking tour" about 20 years ago with a walking company based in England. I combined two "tours" - max 9 people. The first week -- I did the walks through Scotland tour, the second, was Northumberland. I'll never forget those walks. It was like no other experience I've had abroad or here. One day we walked 13 miles through beautiful, remote country you can't get to by car.
Thanks for commenting on my report. S
Jul 24th, 2011, 06:09 AM
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For those who may be interested, my photos of Rothenburg are now posted.
http://www.pbase.com/scbowen/germany__austria_2011
http://www.pbase.com/scbowen/germany__austria_2011
Jul 24th, 2011, 08:11 AM
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Days 12 & 13: Salzburg, Austria
Hotel Elefant
Though I enjoyed wonderful sunny weather here with views of the fortress, I didn’t enjoy the unbelievable number of tourists here. Yes, I expected heavy tourism, but it was really overwhelming. Also, getting lost in the “new town” amid heavy construction going on there, fumes from tour busses, and the consistent numbers of tourists (many of them smoking) on the streets, made for an unpleasant stay.
I did enjoy touring Mozart’s childhood homes here. Unforgettable objects were his beautifully embroidered “wallet,” which he supposedly carried everywhere in his short adulthood, 2 of his pianos, and a miniature profile painting that was said to be an exact likeness of him. Both homes are worth touring and you can buy a combined ticket at one site.
Mozart was said to be under 5’ tall, very thin, and pale. Interesting then that the scupture in his honor in Mozartplatz, makes him seem so tall and robust like a George Washington figure.
I really wanted to see a Mozart opera staged at the Marionette Theater, but on my free night there they were doing Sound of Music. I actually like the movie (though I had no interest in doing the SOM tour), but didn’t particularly want to see the musical performed by marionettes.)
Days 14 & 15 St. Gilgen
Hotel Scherntheiner
Lovely little town, complete with onion domed church, on the Wolfgangsee. The lake itself is an incrediblely beautiful turquoise color. A very cheerful, kind and helpful owner greeted me at the little hotel where I stayed.
On day 15, I took a ferry to St Wolfgang and took the red steam engine train up to the vista from which one has a crow’s view of three Salzkammergut lakes. I was blessed with wonderful weather for this excursion. It was quite warm, even at the summit. The train going up was packed -- I mean packed, with every seat taken -- making it somewhat uncomfortable, yet so worth it for the spectacular views on the way up and at the top. Thanks again, Betty, for telling me about this!
After the train excursion, I walked to the village of St. Wolfgang. Charming town, but St. Gilgen seemed to hold more charm and fewer tourists, so I knew I had made the right choice staying here.
That evening, it poured rain (and I heard thunder). I was a little concerned as my next stop would be Hallstatt, which I had never visited, and wanted the glorious, sunny weather to continue.!
Hotel Elefant
Though I enjoyed wonderful sunny weather here with views of the fortress, I didn’t enjoy the unbelievable number of tourists here. Yes, I expected heavy tourism, but it was really overwhelming. Also, getting lost in the “new town” amid heavy construction going on there, fumes from tour busses, and the consistent numbers of tourists (many of them smoking) on the streets, made for an unpleasant stay.
I did enjoy touring Mozart’s childhood homes here. Unforgettable objects were his beautifully embroidered “wallet,” which he supposedly carried everywhere in his short adulthood, 2 of his pianos, and a miniature profile painting that was said to be an exact likeness of him. Both homes are worth touring and you can buy a combined ticket at one site.
Mozart was said to be under 5’ tall, very thin, and pale. Interesting then that the scupture in his honor in Mozartplatz, makes him seem so tall and robust like a George Washington figure.
I really wanted to see a Mozart opera staged at the Marionette Theater, but on my free night there they were doing Sound of Music. I actually like the movie (though I had no interest in doing the SOM tour), but didn’t particularly want to see the musical performed by marionettes.)
Days 14 & 15 St. Gilgen
Hotel Scherntheiner
Lovely little town, complete with onion domed church, on the Wolfgangsee. The lake itself is an incrediblely beautiful turquoise color. A very cheerful, kind and helpful owner greeted me at the little hotel where I stayed.
On day 15, I took a ferry to St Wolfgang and took the red steam engine train up to the vista from which one has a crow’s view of three Salzkammergut lakes. I was blessed with wonderful weather for this excursion. It was quite warm, even at the summit. The train going up was packed -- I mean packed, with every seat taken -- making it somewhat uncomfortable, yet so worth it for the spectacular views on the way up and at the top. Thanks again, Betty, for telling me about this!
After the train excursion, I walked to the village of St. Wolfgang. Charming town, but St. Gilgen seemed to hold more charm and fewer tourists, so I knew I had made the right choice staying here.
That evening, it poured rain (and I heard thunder). I was a little concerned as my next stop would be Hallstatt, which I had never visited, and wanted the glorious, sunny weather to continue.!
Jul 24th, 2011, 08:30 AM
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Great trip report!
Isn't that Night Tour guide in Rothenburg a kick? Must be the same fella we had many years ago.
Nice photos too! I haven't been back to Bonn in eons, but glad to see Beethoven is standing guard there.
Thanks for sharing and looking forward to more!
Isn't that Night Tour guide in Rothenburg a kick? Must be the same fella we had many years ago.
Nice photos too! I haven't been back to Bonn in eons, but glad to see Beethoven is standing guard there.
Thanks for sharing and looking forward to more!
Jul 24th, 2011, 12:54 PM
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For Sglw: I know you are leaving Tuesday for Bavaria and Austria. I haven't gotten to Hallstatt in my report yet, but I wanted you to know it was the highlight of my trip. If you've never been there, you really should consider including it, if you haven't already.
Bamberg gallery has been completed.
http://www.pbase.com/scbowen/germany__austria_2011
In looking at my photos more closely of the tomb in the Kaiserdom cathedral, Bamberg, I realized I needed to add a comment. According to Frommer's Germany, 2011, Tilman Riemanschneider worked laboriously for a decade on the sculpture that graces the tomb, and the relief work on the sides (you will see images of this in my photo gallery). This is the tomb of Emperor Heinrich II and his wife, Kunigunde, who had been suspected of adultery (and a scene to this effect is depicted in the relief work on the sides of the tomb) Remarkable to me are the expressions on the faces, and also, the period clothing and headwear remind me so much of the illustrations in my favorite fairy tale book as a child -- Sleeping Beauty (not Disney version).
Bamberg gallery has been completed.
http://www.pbase.com/scbowen/germany__austria_2011
In looking at my photos more closely of the tomb in the Kaiserdom cathedral, Bamberg, I realized I needed to add a comment. According to Frommer's Germany, 2011, Tilman Riemanschneider worked laboriously for a decade on the sculpture that graces the tomb, and the relief work on the sides (you will see images of this in my photo gallery). This is the tomb of Emperor Heinrich II and his wife, Kunigunde, who had been suspected of adultery (and a scene to this effect is depicted in the relief work on the sides of the tomb) Remarkable to me are the expressions on the faces, and also, the period clothing and headwear remind me so much of the illustrations in my favorite fairy tale book as a child -- Sleeping Beauty (not Disney version).
