Beaune France - Recommendations?
 

Hi-
Our June trip will be our first time to France and we will be in the Beaune area for 4 days. Any recommends i.e. must see or do, restaurants.
Thanks Paul

Dear Paul:

With 4 days in and around Beaune, I'd suggest one full day to see the Hotel Dieu and to walk around the walls in Beaune. After that you could head south to Tournus and stroll the old town there, on the banks of the Saone River. And of course, Dijon is only about 25 miles North of Beaune, so there is another day trip perfectly laid out for you as well. As far as restaurants goes, about 10 miles south of Beaune, along the A6/N74 is the town of Chagny. In Chagny, try the Chateau de Bellecroix. It is a former commanderie of the Knights of Malta, built initially in the 12th century and "modernized" in the 18th century. The reception area/dining room contains replicas of Old Master's works.

Drop me a line if you need some more information..

Regards..
Luis

Hi PK,

If you look up Beaune in the "Search this Forum" box, you will find a number of suggestions.

Also look into Vezelay, Autun, Le Creusot.

The Cote d'Or is one of the world's great wine regions.

((I))

For me, a highlight of spending time in Beaune is the opportunity to take tours of the vineyards in a van or small coach. Different routes -- my favorites cover the Cote du Nuits -- can be booked at, and leave from, the tourist office in the main square. It's one thing to know that a top bottle of burgundy can fetch $5,000 or more, or even see the precious bottle under glass in a wine shop. It's something else to be able to look at the actual patch of earth on which the magic grapes grow and wonder "What turns these grapes (but not others) into such divine wine?"

On dining, I would caution you that, in high season, several of the high-end restaurants in Beaune (e.g. Bernard Morillon at the Hotel Le Cep, Le Jardin des Remparts) make frequent bookings for high-end tour groups. Having 30 or 40 sportif cyclists from a Butterfield & Robinson tour occupying a 60 place restaurant can quite alter the ambience of a dinner for two. For that reason, when in Beaune, I happily frequent more rustic but nonetheless excellent places such as La Ciboulette.

Must dos:

a) Rent a car.

b) Study the Michelin Green Guide Burgundy.

c) Buy Michelin maps in the greatest detail for the area. 1:100,000 is good.

d) If you are athletes skip a), rent bikes and do b) and c).

e) Wait till morning for Coco to come on forum and give you the latest information from the front lines.

f) Try the Passetoutgrains, a blend of pinot noir and gamay grapes.

By all means pay a visit to the town of Autun, which has a magnificent cathedral and fine medieval precincts. There's also a Roman theater (still in use) and beautiful cast-iron gates on the Jesuit college.

Near Autun is the Château de Rochegude, with a roof in Burgundian tiles.

You could take a day and visit the historic town of Vézelay, with the famous basilica of Mary Magdelene, a starting point for pilggrims on the road to Santiago de Campostela. In the same area is the ancient abbey of Fontenay, still in quite good condition.

That's just for starters.

One restaurant recommendation: the Michelin one-rosette Hostellerie du Vieux Moulin, in the tiny hamlet of Bouilland--about a 20-minute drive through "Swiss Burgundy" from Beaune. The route takes you through the wine village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, and the tasting room is a good place to stop.

1* South of Beaune along the wine road is the village of Santenay. Try lunch at Le Terroir: when I was there, the house red was sensational. The owner has a great palate and/or local connections.
2* Over the west doorway of the cathedral at Autun is a great carving from 1135. It was considered too graphic by clerics in 1766, and they had it plastered over. This saved it from the excesses of the Revolution, and it was uncovered 1837 and fully restored in 1948. Of key interest is the fact that it is the only work from the 12th century to be signed: under Christ's foot are the words "Gisbertus hoc fecit" (Gilbert made this) The work of this master craftsman has been since identified in several other important churches in this part of France.

Hi,
Thanks Hopscotch but I'm not of help with Beaune at all, it's been a long time now since I've been there and I know I should go back and have a good look (following the fodorites'advices ;-))
All I can say is if you go to Dijon, the best thing to do is to get a brochure called "the owl's trail" from the tourist office and then you won't miss the things to see.
http://www.dijon-tourism.com/uk/dijo...s_chouette.htm
Start in the morning, have a good lunch by the food market hall and go on in the afternoon. A perfect day! :-)

If you like parks don't miss Darcy park with Pompon bear statue, La Colombière park (a nice big one with long alleys and a few animals), and even Dijon Kir lake(4km round).
And if you're not into architecture and history you can go shopping! (Galeries Lafayette, H&M, Fnac...)
So many things to do in such a short time!
Welcome to Burgundy! :-)
coco

For some very good Burgundian fare, go to La Gourmandin at Place Carnot. Good wine list, by the glass, too.

About a couple of blocks, on a sidestreet off Place Carnot is Ma Cuisine - another very good bistro that serves some memorable Burgundian dishes.

We are big fans of La Ciboulette and always eat there when in Beaune. It is small and very reasonable and the selections are always interesting and tasty. You will need to reserve as it is popular with locals.

Enjoy your trip,
Robyn France

I would also recommend the Hotel Dieu in Beaune. I also had a wonderful meal in a restaurant called Le Cave in Beaune. This was about 6 or 7 years ago.

Will also recommend Vezeley and very near Vezeley be sure to visit the Chateau de Vauban. http://www.corkscrew-balloon.com/bal...mgnik/14b.html

Another place is the Chateau du Clos de Vougeot. http://www.chateauxandcountry.com/ch...ot/struct.html

Also the Abbay de Fontenay. http://www.chateauxandcountry.com/ch...ay/struct.html

Thanks for the question, Paul.
I'm taking notes of the restaurant recommendations, as we will be staying 1 night in Beaune.

dina

Topping

Two of our favorite dining places in Beaune.
The restaurant in the Hotel de la Poste
and the restaurant Le Grand Bleu.
Avallon is a favorite town of mine with lots og good dining.

In July of 2003, Our family of 4 spent one very enjoyable day and night in Beaune on our way from Chamonix on our way to the Loire Valley. In Beaune itself, the Hotel Dieu is probably the most visited sight. We enjoyed just strolling around the town.

You can sample many wines at Marche aux Vins, which is just down the street from the Athanaeum--a great place to get books, souvenoirs, etc.

We had dinner in a wine cellar called Caveau St. Gilles. We all had a salad, Boeuf Burgandy, choice of an assorted cheese plate or blanc fromage a la creme (which was like a big pile of cream cheese which you can sprinkle sugar on) and a baked pear for dessert.
All of this for 13 euros each! I can't remember if the wine was included. We had a Cotes du Nuits with our meal.

We had a car and stayed at Hotel de France, which is across from the train station so is also easy for train travelers. It was very nice, reasonably priced and had air cond. Also included breakfast. We were able to walk to all of the above places easily. I don't have their website but their e-mail in 2003 was [email protected] This may be different now. Have a great trip!

I have not been to the region since a barge trip a long time ago, but since you asked about restaurants, I have heard many, many wonderful reports of Stephane Derbord in Dijon. You might want to look into dining there...based on what I have heard and read it may be a must.


www.restaurantstephanederbord.fr

We just got back from Beaune and just loved it. Definitely spend a day in beaune itself. The Marche au Vins is great, for 5 euros you can go downstairs and taste 15 different wines of the area. I highly recommend that :)

I also loved just driving around the small wine villages. Also, Dijon is fantastic, definitely spend a day there and do the Owl Tour. You can get Owl Tour maps at the tourist office for 2 euros.

My hubby is writing a trip report, and he is finished the Burgundy parts. You can read it here: http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...58&start=0

and also see our pics at http://www.flickr.com/photos/radio-friendly

Good luck trip planning!
Jamie

>>many wonderful reports of Stephane Derbord in Dijon<<

We spent the month of Sept in Beaujolais & Burgundy. Stephen Derbord was our favorite - and perhaps in my top 5 all time. We usually spend 2 months in France every year - so that's about 40 restaurant meals, and we've been doing so since '99.

Stu Dudley

Stu:

If it is in your Top 5 of all time, and I know you know good food, I need to make a beeline to Stephane Debord..fast!

ooops... Derbord!