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BetsyG Apr 20th, 2005 12:05 PM

beach - Netherlands/Belgium
 
We are planning a trip to Amsterdam & Bruges in late July/August. Thinking about spending a couple of days on the beach somewhere. Is it very crowded at that time?Where would be the best place to go? Family oriented, moderate prices. Thanks

MyriamC Apr 20th, 2005 12:28 PM

Yes, it will be crowded as July/Aug is top season because of the school holidays, at least in Belgium. All the beaches in Belgium are family oriented. I personally like Knokke very much, it's 10 min. drive from Brugge. The beach is wide, you can easily rent sunbeds and umbrella's, there are lots of nice shops, cafés and restaurants. The districts Duinbergen and Knokke-Zoute are very residential with white painted houses/villas.
In terms of pretty, Den Haan certainly gets my second vote.
You may find some useful information on http://bezoekers.knokke-heist.be/def...px?language=en (Knokke) and http://www.dehaan.be/ (Den Haan)

africa_lover Apr 20th, 2005 01:02 PM

Myriam,
You should mention that Knokke, allthough I agree and this would be my first choice too, is the most expensive and elite town on the Belgian coast, whereas Den Haan is a bit more moderate

MyriamC Apr 20th, 2005 01:58 PM

You're right, africa_lover. I believe, though, that Knokke can still be called 'moderate' for US standards.

BetsyG Apr 20th, 2005 02:13 PM

MyriamC - would either of these be good for a day trip from Bruge or better to stay overnight? I assume there are trains to either or both?

hopscotch Apr 20th, 2005 02:36 PM



For a family oriented beach in Holland I would pick Scheveningen, on the north side of the Hague. It also has a long boardwalk with cafes and street entertainment. Somewhat more robust is Zandvoort which attracts the Amsterdam crowd plus plenty of Germans on vacation.

Also in the Hague for your family is Madurodam, Holland in miniature. Just north of the Hague in Wassenaar is a fantastic water amusement park, Duinrell (pronounced down rell).


africa_lover Apr 21st, 2005 12:40 AM

BetsyG
Knokke is ideal for a daytrip from Brugge, don't have to stay overnight.

Tulips Apr 21st, 2005 01:48 AM

Agree with that; Knokke is very easy to do from Brugge, and accommodation is sometimes hard to find in summer.
You can rent bicycles or go-carts on the boulevard. If it's not beach weather, cycle over to the Zwin nature reserve.
If you have children; in Knokke children make paper flowers that they sell for shells to other children on the beach (or mum makes the flowers). Great way for them to get in touch with other children. All the 'flower shops' on the beach look very colorful too.

MyriamC Apr 21st, 2005 03:39 AM

I didn't find Zandvoort to be very family oriented. Lots of 'clubbing' on the beach with loud music and booze.
On the other hand, the province of Zeeland/NL (Renesse, Vrouwenpolder, Zoutelande, Domburg, ...) has some wonderful beaches/dunes for families with kids. A definite 'pro' compared to the Belgian beaches is the lack of highrise buildings at the coastline in Zeeland. If we want to just lie on the beach and get a tan, we prefer to be in Zeeland. If we want to do some shopping and eat & drink well, we prefer Knokke.

BTilke Apr 21st, 2005 04:00 AM

Myriam, you beat me to the punch. I was going to recommend Zeeland. It's much quieter and the beaches are as nice (we think they're nicer). Also, there are several family oriented holiday rental developments. However, I think they fill up pretty quickly in high season, so the OP should start planning now. The attractive, historic town of Middelburg, a short drive from the beaches, is also worth exploring for the day.
The area's only downside is that it may be a little TOO quiet if Betsy's kids are teenagers looking for boardwalk style action and amusements. If they're younger, it's a much better choice, IMHO, than Knokke or the other Belgian beach towns (I would also agree with the other posters who suggested staying in nearby Bruges instead of Knokke/Blankenberge, etc.)

BetsyG Apr 21st, 2005 05:00 PM

Thanks all! The "Zeeland Riviera" is mentioned in my Frommers guide & sounded good. Sounds like if we want to stay overnight on the coast, Zeeland would be the best. If we only go for the day (from Bruge), Knokke would be good. I wish we had more time, it may be a trade off between a couple of days in Paris or the days (& nights) on the beach!

BTilke Apr 22nd, 2005 01:55 AM

Take the extra days in Paris! You can find plenty of beach places to visit at home.

BetsyG Apr 23rd, 2005 01:22 PM

BTilke - I'm afraid you may be right. Thanks!

MyriamC Apr 24th, 2005 12:35 AM

If there's a heatwave while you are in A'dam or Brugge, you might prefer a few days at the beach ... In those circumstances I, for one, would prefer the beach over any city.

jenviolin Apr 24th, 2005 04:08 AM

I second MyriamC & BTilke (third) about Zeeland; more family-oriented and quieter, but still plenty to do. Scheveningen is defnitely the least family-oriented beach in the Netherlands. Sure, there's a pier, shops and some entertainment, but there's also an international casino, lots of fast food and junk, loud music and wall-to-wall topless and tangas.
Haarlem is another good option - you could stay in town and rent bikes to ride through the Kennemer Dunes (about 30 - 40 minutes' lovely riding) to get to beaches that are only accessible by bike or foot. Maybe the best of both worlds?

Tulips Apr 24th, 2005 05:29 AM

Knokke is very much a family-oriented town, with lots to do besides the beach. Don't know the ages of your children, Betsy, but I agree with Myriam; if it's very warm, a day or two by the seaside is a good idea.

hopscotch Apr 24th, 2005 07:10 AM



Jenviolin,

You say about Scheveningen: <i>but there's also an international casino, lots of fast food and junk, loud music and wall-to-wall topless and tangas</i> and then you recommend Haarlem. The beach near Haarlem is Zandvoort which certainly features all of the things you mention at Scheveningen, plus some.

Halfway between these two are Noordwijk and Katwijk. Both are much less commercialied and present a more bucolic ambience.

BetsyG Apr 24th, 2005 05:19 PM

Really appreciate all the advice &amp; wish we had more time! I have another question for you all Benelux &quot;experts&quot;. What would be your favorite day trip from Amsterdam, including most authentic &amp; easiest to get to - Zaanse Schans, Delft, Harleem, Leiden or one of the beach towns already mentioned? Or somewhere else? I emphasize easiest to get to! I like art, boys like history. Thanks again. Betsy

MyriamC Apr 24th, 2005 11:37 PM

My personal choice would be Haarlem. It's only 14 min. by train from A'dam.
A few years ago we 'did' Haarlem on our bikes. We took our own but you can rent them at the railway station or in town.
You can easily make a combo of city and beach. Haarlem is a very pretty city with an interesting past. There are a few museums, churches, you can make the &quot;Hofjes&quot; tour, then ride to Bloemendaal (5 km) on your bike and spend some time at the beach.
July/August it won't be dark until 10.30 pm.
Delft is also very pretty, but it's a bit further away (1 hr train).
Haven't been to Zaansche Schans. I don't know if there's any more to see than a series of windmills. We might daytrip this summer.

hopscotch Apr 25th, 2005 02:21 PM



I second Haarlem, where I've lived.

Suggestions for unique and historic:

Cruquius Expo, a 150 year old steam engine, and as big as they get. The engine is actually a fair sized building and a great museum of old steam engines and a working hydrologic map of The Netherlands. Fascinating to me, as engineer.

Sint Bavo Kerk, also known as the Grote Kerk (Big Church). Has a famous organ with action a few days a week.

The Rail Station, a 100 year old classic. View it from the SE side especially.

Amsterdamse Poort, last remaining piece of the mediaeval town walls. Picture yourself shooting arrows out through the slits in the walls defending your city. That's the way it was 400 years ago.

Frans Hals Museum. Has works by the Master in a former hofje. Beautiful stuff in a beautiful setting. This might be open in the evening. The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam has the best of Frans, his Merry Drinker.

Tylers Museum, on the Spaarne River. Has dinosaur bones, rocks, old scientific instruments, interactive devices, and all manner of stuff. Claims to be the oldest museum in the Netherlands. My 12 year old daughter and her friend loved this one.

Historical Museum, near the Frans Hals Museum. Includes a video show as I recall.

Grote Markt (town square) is one of the best in Europe. Schedule your lunch for this place and savor the view. Take an outdoor table at the Cafe Brinkman. Service is slow but the burgers are great and it's right in the middle of the north side of the Markt. Saturday is market day as I recall so the square will be crammed with stands selling food and a world of other stuff. Try a few cheeses and have a haring.

For fun, the Linneaushof amusement park in Bennebroek is good for young kids. It claims to be the biggest amusement park in Europe (I don't know if they include Tivoli and Eurodisney in their realm). Take a bus from Haarlem as I recall.

In the evening walk up the Lange Veerstraat and Kleine Houtstraat to see the Haarlemers at ease in their cafes and bars, or standing in the &quot;street&quot; talking and drinking till the wee hours. Or window shop on the Grote Houtstraat. On all walk streets like these, keep the eyes on the back of your head alert for bicyclers.

For a nightcap and a bit of cheese, find the little cafe called the Goede Uur. It's a charming throwback place that you won't want to leave. Ask a local because I couldn't give you decent directions. I just kind of find it as I bike around the neighborhood.

Catch the last train back to Amsterdam. Watch out for pickpockets in the Amsterdam train station and on the trams. Come to think of it, why don't you stay in Haarlem? Make Amsterdam a day trip.




MyriamC Apr 26th, 2005 01:01 AM

&lt;&lt;Come to think of it, why don't you stay in Haarlem? Make Amsterdam a day trip.&gt;&gt;
I would really consider hopscotch's suggestion. And follow his/her valuable tips!

Intrepid1 Apr 26th, 2005 03:22 AM

Unless you are looking to save money or for a MUCH smaller and quieter town I would NOT stay in Haarlem (as much as I like it) if you are really going to see Amsterdam and ALL that it has to offer.

I know, it only takes a few minutes by train but it only takes a few minutes by train from Hoboken into NYC, too..be realistic.

BetsyG Apr 26th, 2005 09:33 AM

Thanks for all the great advice! Much food for thought. Would not mind saving some money by staying in Haarlem since airfare keeps going up &amp; we still haven't bought tickets. Anyway, Haarlem would be a great day trip if we decide to stay in Amsterdam. Will have to look at hotel options in Haarlem. Hopscotch, I loved your descriptions of sites in Haarlem. By the way, what is haring? I have no knowledge of Dutch food, much to learn.

MyriamC Apr 26th, 2005 10:41 AM

Haring is (raw) fresh herring.
http://www.muys.nl/nieuws/2004/mei/image024.jpg

artstuff Apr 26th, 2005 11:36 AM

BetsyG -

If you're looking for a smaller town to stay in, I can recommend Delft, which would also make a nice day trip from Amsterdam.

We stayed at the Herberg de Emauspoort, which is in the city center, directly behind the Nieuwe Kerk. Two years ago room rates were EUR 82.50 for double, EUR 72.50 for single, breakfast included (standard Dutch breakfast). The hotel has an on-site bakery with fresh-baked, delicious desserts, etc. They also have bicycles that they let you use for free. Although they are a bit wobbly, it was fun to ride them through the streets of Delft. Their website is:

www.emauspoort.nl

If you stayed in Delft, you could easily take Tram #1 (use your Strippenkaart) into den Haag, where you could visit the Mauritshuis (<i>Girl With the Pearl Earring, View of Delft</i>), Panorama Mesdag and the M.C. Escher Museum. Your boys would probably enjoy the virtual reality tour on the third floor.

I would also suggest a quick tour around the governmental buildings and the Hofvijver. Then you could hop on another tram (#7 or #8, sorry I can't remember the number, but you can ask someone) which will take you out to Scheveningen and the beach on the North Sea.

By staying in Delft, you get the feel of a smaller Dutch town, you can easily visit the beach, you can get your fill of art, and your boys will see history all around them. And, you can do all this by taking the trams - you don't need to take the train.

Of course, Haarlem is a great place to visit too (although I have never stayed there during my 4 trips to the Netherlands). Everything that Hopscotch mentions was right on. Your boys would probably enjoy the Tylers Museum because it has so much neat &quot;stuff&quot;.

Problem is, there is never enough time to do everything you want to do. Enjoy your planning. Peace.

Robyn :)&gt;-

BetsyG May 1st, 2005 02:09 PM

We are still &quot;mulling&quot; over this trip. Is there train connection to/from Haarlem to Schiphol or do you have to go into Amsterdam? Also, I asked on another thread but got no responses - are the tulip fields pretty in late March? Thanks.

MyriamC May 1st, 2005 11:19 PM

You will have to change trains in Amsterdam Centraal. No big deal!
March is a little early for tulips. There will be other flowers blooming on the fields ('bollenvelden'), like daffodils and hyacinths.

hopscotch May 2nd, 2005 02:46 AM


For taking the train from Schiphol to Haarlem, it is much easier to change at Amsterdaam Sloterdijk. It is a smaller station, and much safer than Centraal against pickpockets, but always be aware. When traveling with luggage, especially with the airline luggage claim tags in place, you are a prime target.

For going to Haarlem from Schiphol, I would recommend the Connexxion bus number 300 instead of the train. Bus 300 takes you from Schiphol Plaza directly to the Haarlem station. It requires 8 strips of a 15 strip <i>Strippenkaart</i> and takes just under 45 minutes. It's a big comfortable bus and you'll be one of the few pasengers on board. Buy your <i>Strippenkaart</i> at the VVV tourist office in Schiphol, or at news stands. The <i>Strippenkaart</i> is valid on buses and trams throughout Holland, plus the Amsterdam metro.

Mid-April to mid-May is the best time for tulips. You would want to go to Keukenhof for the best experience, rather than the fields.


BetsyG May 2nd, 2005 07:36 AM

Thanks for the info. I am thinking now that maybe we will skip Paris this time &amp; do Amsterdam, Brugge then return to Haarlem &amp; fly home from there. We were going to do open jaw to AMS &amp; home from Paris but that is a lot more expensive than the AMS roundtrip. The open jaw AMS, home from Brussels is a lot more expensive also &amp; with 5 people it adds up. Hopscotch, I assume we can catch the bus or train from Haarlem station to Schiphol? Any other thoughts? Other favorite places in Netherlands?

BetsyG May 2nd, 2005 08:39 AM

Hopscotch - I just found Haarlem transfer information in Rick Steves guidebook so you don't need to respond to that question. Any hotel, restaurant ideas would be appreciated (kid-friendly but not Thai, CHinese, restaurants. One child has nut allergies so we stear away from those.)
Really appreciate all the advice!

hopscotch May 2nd, 2005 07:18 PM

My first bit of advice is to throw Steves' book in the rubbish and get a Lonely Planet Guide. Why? Because Steves is so full of errors that you are better off with no book. The irony is that he boasts in the front of each of his books that he updates it every year. I have 2005 and 2000 editions of his &quot;Best of Europe&quot; with identical wrong information in each. He has pasted the identical wrong information into his Amsterdam book.

Bus 300 runs every 10 minutes from Schiphol and also from Haarlem. It is slightly more frequent than the train and avoids the change at Sloterdijk.

One star hotels in Haarlem are Joops, Carillon, Raekse, and Amadeus. They are all on or near the Grote Markt. Less expensive are a few B&amp;Bs laying about in the city. If you are a family on a budget that second B for breakfast is a steal. There are also a couple of three star business hotels, the Lion d'Or near the station and the Carlton Square on the southern rim of the old town. Note: each of these hotels gives itself one more star than I have bestowed. There are no official ratings in Holland so every hotel just nails as many stars to their front door as they wish.

I've stayed at the hotels Carillon, Raekse, and Lion d'Or. For a family I would suggest the Raekse. It has a pleasant caf&eacute; for breakfast. The Joops' rooms are so varied that you won't know what you get until you walk in the room. BTW, I've had a few beers with Joop in the local pubs over the past few decades; he is well known in town. The Amadeus is the &quot;Rick Steves Groupie Bus Tour&quot; hotel. When one of Rick's tours is in town he fills the place. If you have the cash go for the Carlton. It is new and in a very good part of town.

If you are leaning toward Haarlem, may I suggest you look into Zandvoort aan Zee. Somewhere above in this thread I suggested Scheveningen as a better beach town for a family. Well, the truth is that your husband and kids are going to see some bare breasts and plenty of fanny wherever you beach in Holland. In Zandvoort you can find real cheap family oriented places to stay. I call them &quot;Zimmer Fries&quot; because each has a sign out front <i>Zimmer Frei</i>, which is German for &quot;Room Available.&quot; A very few of them also say <i>mit Fr&uuml;st&uuml;ck</i>, which is &quot;with breakfast.&quot; It's all in German because the Germans invade Holland in the summer. August is the best beach month to be there because that month has the highest probablility of good weather, but I guarantee you that an 80F sunny afternoon can turn into a windy 60F drizzle before you can roll over.

About restaurants, most of all the guidebook advice is rubbish. However Fodor's nails one of the best places for parents and kids in one of their books on Holland. It's the Caf&eacute; Brinkman at the Grote Markt. Great hamburgers (avoid the McRubbush a few doors away) and beverages outdoors with a beautiful view of the mediaeval town square and Grote Kerk. Typical slow Dutch service but good portions for lunch. I've kept my favorite Haarlem dinner places a secret for decades, but there are some places near the big church you might like. Wilma and Albert's has been serving steaks for decades. The Dubrovnik has also been a great place for decades. Quality varies in most of the others and it changes from year to year, usually downward. Avoid the Italian places in Haarlem. Also, I can't stand Indonesian food, actually I can't stand the smell of the places, so I certainly won't suggest any of these. If I was you I would ask any middle age woman walking on the Grote Houtstraat where she would take her family for dinner. You will most certainly get more advice than you can use.

Before I write a guide book here, <i>tot ziens</i>, which is Dutch for &quot;see you later.&quot; That's one of the best phrases you can use in Holland.


BetsyG May 3rd, 2005 10:41 AM

Hopscotch - you are a wealth of information! I have the Lonely Planet Amsterdam book from 2002, was a discard
(damaged) from the local library. I actually researched Haarlem hotels last night, Carlton &amp; Lion de O'r looked pretty good - so much cheaper than many hotels in Amsterdam. Will check out Raeckse. Your restaurant suggestions sound great. Zaandort may have to be a day trip from Haarlem, time may be tight. Do you have suggestions about Amsterdam or Bruge? I will pull up your name &amp; see what you have posted in the past so you don't have to repeat yourself.


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