deonca

<b>Day 7 – Daytrip to Nimes & Pont du Gard</b>

I spoke earlier about my arrival in Avignon, and how I visited the bus info kiosk. Well, apparently I wasn’t thorough enough in my questioning at the info point, and it led to a bit of a scramble today…

Before the trip, I had done a lot of research, and I concluded that it was entirely practical to visit Nimes and Pont du Gard on the same day. So I was ready to tackle this…or so I thought.

After checking, then re-verifying the connections between Avignon, Pont du Gard and Nimes, I had all my bases covered: times of the buses from Avignon to Pont du Gard, times of the buses from Pont du Gard to Nimes, and finally the train times back to Avignon, as well as the names of the companies providing the bus service.

Up until a week before departure, the plan was to take the 8:45am bus from Avignon to PDG. Then I planned to take the 1:20pm bus to Nimes, spend a few hours there, and train back to Avignon in the evening. But as I was checking out the Pont du Gard website just before I left, I noticed something interesting: that certain attractions were closed for maintenance purposes, until March 2nd. These included the museum and the cinema.

This ‘breaking news’ caused me to reconsider my plan. I figured that since the aqueduct itself was the only thing open at the PDG site, why not just go there on the first available bus, at 6:40am, arriving at 7:16? As far as I knew, the aqueduct could be viewed and accessed at that hour. That would allow me to watch the sun rise, to be there when it’s very quiet, and then bus to Nimes at 9:32, with lots of daylight to spare.

With this revised plan in mind, I awoke at 5:45am and walked down to the bus stop…or what I thought should have been the bus stop! When I first arrived in Avignon and visited the bus info kiosk, I noticed a huge poster showing the pick-up points for buses run by Edgard Transport. (Bus schedule for line A15 connecting Avignon to Pont du Gard: http://www.edgard-transport.fr/ftp/FR_lignes/A15.pdf ). I noted the pickup location for the bus to PDG: a bit further up the road, closer to the train station. So this is where I showed up at 6:30am, 10 minutes early for my bus. Well, you know where this story is going next. 6:40 came and went, and although several buses passed, mine wasn’t among them. I started to wonder if I was on the right side of the road, or at the correct bus shelter, so I walked up and down both sides of the road in a stretch of a couple hundred yards. No sign of the A15 bus.

To make a long story short (I’m probably past that point already), it turns out the Edgard bus to PDG now picks up passengers INSIDE the walls of Avignon. Or at least that’s what I was able to understand from a fellow standing at the bus shelter, after I’d done my best to explain in French what bus I was trying to catch (I’m not terribly fluent in French; some feel I could add English to this list as well).

The bottom line is this: if you think you know everything based on internet research and a poster showing bus stops, it’s still no replacement for good old face-to-face contact. I should have asked the bus info staffer exactly where the bus stop was, when I first got to Avignon (that kiosk wasn’t attended at 6:40 am of course). Lesson learned. Pride swallowed. From now on, I won’t be embarrassed to ask what I previously considered a stupid question. No one is handing out medals for ‘most prepared traveler’ or deducting points if you stop and ask directions. We learn as we go.

OK, back to my situation. Still dark out, so what to do? I had 2 options (3 if you count going back to bed). First, I could wait for the next bus to Pont du Gard, at 8:45. But that was 2 hours away, and I wanted to get rolling. I chose the second option: reverse the order of the sightseeing, and go to Nimes first. Luckily, I had considered this possibility before my trip, as a backup plan in case the original schedule didn’t pan out. I’m sure glad I did the extra research! I knew that I could actually make it work, if I paid very close attention to time throughout the day, so as not to miss my connections (which are very spotty between the 3 locations, spaced out by 3 or 4 hours).

Fortunately, the Avignon train station was nearby, so I walked over there and bought a ticket for the 7:12 train to Nimes. This was one of those moments where my debit card came in handy. The ticket counter was unstaffed, so I could only buy my ticket through the machine, at a cost of 9.70. The train was a TER on Line 11R, from Avignon Centre to Montpellier. (Tip: when you arrive at a French train station, look for the small, printed train schedules and take one for each of your probable destinations – you’ll refer to them often). I arrived in Nimes at 7:46.

In Nimes, trains and buses come and go from the same complex, so upon leaving the train I visited the Edgard office to verify my afternoon bus time to Pont du Gard (there were buses at 11:30, 1:30, and 4:35, but the last one was out of the question as it would bring me to PDG after sunset). The office wasn’t open yet so I waited until 8. Just to make my day a little more interesting, the Edgard staffer informed me that there was a one-day ‘greve’ (grievance…job action) taking place today. Wonderful. The good news was that only select routes and times had been selected for cancellation. As the staffer searched the list for Nimes-PDG connections, I had that sinking feeling that somehow the bus drivers’ union would see fit to totally screw up my travel plans. But not so. Luckily, the 1:30 bus to Pont du Gard was not affected by the job action. So I set off from the station with exactly 5 and a half hours to explore Nimes…and as it turned out, that’s about the amount of time I’d recommend to anyone wondering how much time to budget here (not including meals).

At 8am, the main tourist sites in Nimes (the Arena, Maison Carree) weren’t open yet, so I decided to start at a place that had no operating hours: the ‘Jardins de la Fontaine’. (I tried to ask the Edgard staff how to get a bus up there, but they had no clue about anything other than their own company buses…if that sentence is dripping with a bit of frustration, then it came through as intended…I really didn’t find the staff very helpful there at all – much less friendly).

I walked (leisurely) from the station to the gardens, a distance of 1.7km, in about 30 minutes. The long, straight, wide walkway emanating from the station was lined on either side by a shallow stream of water. Within a couple minutes, I saw my first ‘crocodile-palm’ motifs, which capped a series of traffic-regulating posts. As I circled the Arena and continued along, I took an instant liking to the city. It immediately felt different from Arles, and looking back, I’m glad I visited both places. In total I spent an hour at the gardens, including a visit to the Temple of Diana, dating from 25 BC. Quoting the info board in front of the temple: “part of an Augusteum, a sanctuary dedicated to the cult of the emperor and his family.” It was also believed to have had a library function.

The gardens also include the Tour Magne. Although most guidebooks recommend it, Rick Steves says it isn’t worth the walk or the time. So in the interest of saving time and energy (it’s a hilly area), I didn’t go that far. (I did eventually catch a distant glimpse of it from the Arena later on, as well as from the terrace of the Carre d’Art).

‘Les Jardins’ calmed my nerves beautifully, after my early-morning travel stresses. The classical statues, blackened by time, seemed confident and serene, so I let them influence my attitude for the rest of the day. It was easy to linger around the canals and swans – two white and one black - in this wonderful park, but I had places to go, so I moved on…

From the gardens, I walked up to ‘Castellum’, a small site of considerable significance, dating from the year 1 AD. The town’s water flowed into this distribution tank at the end of a 50km trip from Uzes, via the Pont du Gard aqueduct. Text from info board: “the tank was equipped with a sluicegate on the aqueduct, several drains in the floor and ten lead pipes carrying water to the various parts of the town.”

This appealing part of town was bustling, with a school nearby and many locals out doing their morning errands. Moving back in the direction of the station, the extraordinary Maison Carree was easily and quickly reached, after a visit to the nearby TI. Prior to my trip, I had read about what’s housed inside of Maison Carree: a 3D movie called ‘Heros de Nimes’. I’d read some negative things about the movie, so I wasn’t sure about paying the 5.50 fee to see it, or more importantly, devoting half an hour to it. Well, turns out I didn’t have to make that choice: the doors of the building were locked, while workers inside were busy preparing a new attraction. (Update: I just visited the Maison Carree site and found this info on the new movie, which is now open, and playing every 30 minutes: http://www.nemausus-lefilm.com/en/nemausus-birth-nimes ).

One can’t help but be awestruck by Maison Carree, dating from the years 2-4 AD. It’s in remarkable shape. It’s quite bright, if not paper-white, considering its age. It’s beautifully designed. The lines are straight and the angles are perfect. Look up: the detail is magnificent. Think of antiquity and you think of this type of building. The setting is fantastic as well. I love how the other buildings are spaced some distance away from it, making it look oh so regal. Very very impressive.

Following a guidebook tip, I went inside the adjacent modern glass building (Carre d’Art) and rode the elevator up to level 3. I walked to the café, then out onto the terrace for a birds-eye view of the Maison Carree. I was very tempted to have lunch at the café, not quite busy yet at 11am, but as I mentioned, I was ‘on the clock’ and I still had to visit the Arena before catching the bus out of town. From the café terrace, I could see Tour Magne. By the way, the Carre d’Art building has a great library. I spent some time in the magazine and newspaper reading area, to catch up on what had been happening in the world while I’d been on vacation.

I followed the ‘Rick Steves Nimes walk’ on my way to the Arena. Along the way, I stopped into the market building, and picked up some takeaway food from the connecting shopping centre, to be eaten later at Pont du Gard. Then I passed the Place d’Horloge and then into the Cathedral, which dates to 1096. I didn’t stay long, just enough for a wide shot of the interior. Next stop was the nearby (free) ‘Musee du Vieux Nimes’ for a quick 5 minutes, just to see its ‘denim room’ (denim = de Nimes). The museum houses a really fancy 19th century bird cage among its small collection. On my way to the Arena, I passed through a lovely square with a palm tree and a crocodile fountain. Wonderful.

At 12:30 I arrived at the Arena, built in the 1st century AD. The 9 euro entry fee included a good audioguide (they also sell a ‘Nimes Pass’ for 11 euros, valid for 3 days, which includes the Maison Carree 3D movie and admission to Tour Magne). Due to unfortunate time constraints, I had to rush through in 30 minutes. That’s a shame because I was enjoying this arena tour more than the day before in Arles. This arena has more info boards than in Arles, and it’s also better preserved. I’d say 45 minutes is about the correct amount of time to allot for a visit here. Maybe an hour if you want to just sit and chill on the stone seats for a while, imagining yourself as one of 24,000 spectators two-thousand years ago. The info boards nicely describe the characteristics of Roman forums, arenas, circuses and other structures, as well as telling visitors all about gladiators. There’s also a multimedia room devoted to gladiators, showcasing their weapons and fighting costumes, while TV’s play videos of classic flicks starring Russell Crowe and Kirk Douglas. I should mention one thing about Arenas, now that I’ve visited two of them. Watch your step. These structures haven’t been modernized for 21st century tourists. You don’t get handrails and anti-slip mats and yellow lines painted on step edges. Steps are large, they angle down, and really get slick if they’re wet, so be careful. (I love the authenticity by the way, may it stay that way).

2 interesting points about Nimes:
a. If you’re going to Nimes, you might want to download the app for Apple or Android, covering the Arena, Maison Carree and Tour Magne: http://arenes-nimes.com/en/prepare-y...or-information . You can also download the Arena audioguide in MP3 format.
b. Plans are underway to build a ‘Musee de la Romanite’ next to the Arena, opening in 2017. I highly recommend you check out the video in this link – looks like it’ll be one incredible museum! http://www.nimes.fr/index.php?id=2413

By time I left the Arena, the sun had burst through the morning clouds, and it was a gorgeous Friday afternoon. Temperature had risen to about 15 degrees. I was loving it, quite satisfied with my half-day tour of Nimes, even a little disappointed to leave so soon. But plans are plans, so…

At 1:30 I caught the bus from the ‘gare routiere’ to Pont du Gard (1.60 euros, bus B21 out of station #8, https://www.edgard-transport.fr/ftp/...IGNE%20B21.pdf ; Nimes  PDG schedule on page 2/6). As I boarded, I made sure to tell the driver where I wanted to stop, as there were many stops along the route and I didn’t want to miss mine. He kindly shouted out the correct stop as we arrived, after 45 minutes. The stop was called ‘Vers – Rond Point du Pont du Gard’. A lot of students were on the bus from Nimes, but very few tourists, so I was one of only 4 or 5 people to get off there. From this stop, you can’t see the aqueduct, so just to be sure it’s probably a good idea to ask the driver to confirm the stop as you arrive.

...back shortly to continue the story at Pont du Gard!

eigasuki

Thoroughly enjoying your detailed info and warts and all summaries.

"No one is handing out medals for ‘most prepared traveler’ or deducting points if you stop and ask directions. We learn as we go." This is going to be my mantra from now on!

deonca

Leaving the bus, I noticed a directional sign: ‘Pont du Gard, 1.6 km’. It took about 7 minutes to walk from the bus stop to the covered welcome/reception area at Pont du Gard. Crossing through the parking lot towards the welcome area, I walked behind a few students. We passed a couple of Pont du Gard staff members in red jackets at the entry booth. All of us were waved on through, free of charge (regular admission is 10 euros, but as mentioned, a number of the attractions were closed, so charging admission was apparently up to the discretion of the gatekeepers). Once I reached the welcome area, I encountered no further ticket checks. I finally had time for a very late lunch, my takeout from ‘La Croissanterie’ in Nimes. It consisted of a ‘baguette oceanique’ (tuna, egg, lettuce and tomato), a fabulous milk-chocolate chip ‘maxi’ cookie, and a cherry coke, which I enjoyed on the sunny outdoor patio. There are washrooms and a souvenir shop here as well, and a number of large signs describing the ‘Grand Sites de France’ and ‘Patrimoine Mondial’ classification system.

Recharged and refreshed, it was time to check out the world’s tallest Roman bridge. The walk from the reception area to the aqueduct took another 7 minutes. Along the way, I noticed a couple of people sitting in the shadow of an olive tree, planted in 908 (!), enjoying a small picnic. If I’d known better, I probably would have had my lunch there, as the view would certainly have been more exciting than that offered on the patio.

So how was it? What can I say? The Pont du Gard is spectacular. In fact, I enjoyed my visit more than I thought I would. The aqueduct at Segovia was an impressive sight during my visit to Spain 4 years ago, but this trumps it. My favorite vantage point was along the left bank (rive gauche, or the side from which you make your first approach), about 30 yards on the other side of the bridge, down at water level after going down some steps. I lingered at this tranquil spot underneath the trees for several minutes, enjoying the ‘sunny side’ of the aqueduct. The only sounds were the chirping of birds and the hushed ripples of the calm Gardon river. Not a bad spot for a nap, if one were so inclined.

Quoting a sign on the aqueduct: ‘visits of the top level are open to the public from the month of May until September and all year round for groups upon reservation.’ I moved across to the other side of the aqueduct, and passed through the tunnel a few steps further. There wasn’t much on the other side of the tunnel, so I turned back and made my way up the paths to a higher vantage point on the right bank. Then back down to water level on the shaded side, to watch the sun set beyond the hills at 4:45pm.

It turns out that I made a great decision to bring my snacks from Nimes, because when I left the site around 5pm, the café was closed and there was nowhere around to get a bite to eat. I was curious about evening illumination (although I couldn’t stick around to see it), so I inquired about it at the info center. I was told that the lights stay on until midnight. http://www.pontdugard.fr/en/practical-information

In total I spent 3 hours at Pont du Gard, which I’d say is about right. Obviously if the museum were open, one would need more time. And if you wanted to just make a lazy afternoon of it, while pondering a spectacular Roman sight, it certainly is the type of place where you could spend even more time.

As I prepared to catch the bus back to Avignon, the kindness of strangers prevented a mishap at the bus stop. I stood waiting at the same place I got off the bus from Nimes, but about 5 minutes before the bus was scheduled to arrive, two local women came up and asked me where I was going. When I told them I was heading to Avignon, they informed me that I was in the wrong spot, and told me to walk across to the opposite side of the roundabout. That was certainly a lucky break which prevented me from getting stranded in Ales or Uzes or some town not named Avignon! Funny how this day started with total confusion at the bus stop and not a soul around to help, but ended with the travel gods looking out for me and steering me in the right direction. Thank you travel gods (you guys must be forum members, right?).

After a 45 minute ride (1.50 euros), I returned to Avignon at 6:10pm. Eleven amazing hours, two great destinations, one really awesome day of sightseeing.

For the rest of the night, after being bound by schedules all day long, I focused on what I wanted to do, rather than what I felt obligated to do. My first two days in Avignon, I had resisted the temptation to browse at the FNAC music store, near my hotel, because its operating hours conflicted with my touring schedule. But I couldn’t stay away any longer, so I shopped until closing time at 7 (which seems surprisingly early to me). For those wondering, individual CD prices are higher than in North America, but they had a decent 4-for-20 sale which I definitely took advantage of!).

I went back to Hotel Central to freshen up a bit, before setting out to explore parts of Avignon I hadn’t yet seen. My 2-hour walk was mostly spent weaving through the ‘right side’ of Rue de la Republique, past the water wheel, and the unique ‘les halles’ building with its unmistakable green, living façade. Although I passed a few restaurants which had been recommended by my guidebook, I didn’t stop to eat anywhere. I’m not proud to say this, but I always hesitate before going into a restaurant alone. On this night, I couldn’t seem to venture any further than window shopping and chalkboard menu perusal. Besides, I had big dinner plans in Nice for the next night, so I didn’t mind saving a few bucks. I should note that prices were certainly not exorbitant: many restaurants had 3-course meals featured for 15-20 euros. I just didn’t feel up to it, so I just wandered as long as my energy would allow, which carried me to about 10pm. Tomorrow, I’d visit the Papal Palace, and any other parts of Avignon that time would permit, before my mid-afternoon train to the Cote D’Azur.

eigasuki

Oh those travel gods have saved me many a time!

Glad to hear i am not the only one who's somewhat intimidated going into restaurants solo.

Now I'm sorry I gave Nimes a miss on my Provence trip, but you can't do everything, can you?

FWIW, I thought the museum at Pont du Gard was moderately interesting but not a must see. Good for kids.

kelsey22

Great information! Thanks again - I can't wait till Nice!

deonca

<b>Day 8 – Moving From Avignon to Nice</b>

This was moving day, so I had one main focus before leaving Avignon for Nice: to visit the Papal Palace. I began my (audioguided) tour at 10:30. Admission cost 13 euros; it would have been 11 without the audioguide. Although the audioguide was very good, one could make do without. Each room of the palace has large info cards, available in various languages, that you can carry around the room with you, and then return as you leave. The cards carry much the same information as is contained on the audio track.

At the midway point of the tour, there is a small vending-machine refreshment area, which I reached after 40 minutes. Coffee cost 1 euro at the machine, pop or water cost 2 euros. The rooms of the palace are mostly empty, except the Papal sleeping quarters, which have frescoes and beautiful colored tile floors (no photos allowed in those rooms). The tour ends in a wine shop, and then the typical souvenir shop. I’ll admit the architects designed it smartly – you don’t just emerge in a large shop, you actually snake your way around the room to reach the exit. The more goods you pass, the more likely you are to stop and buy something. I finally left the palace at 12:30, somewhat surprised that I had actually spent 2 hours there. There was no time to visit the neighboring Musee du Petits Palais.

Before heading back to the hotel, I walked through ‘Jardins des Rocher des Doms’. The highlight was the round observation point, marking several points along the horizon. Clouds prevented me from seeing the peak of Mont Ventoux. For lunch, I picked up a steak panini along the way back to the hotel, and ate it there as I collected the bags I had left. Along the short walk to the Centre-Ville train station, I couldn’t walk past Marie Blachere without stopping in one last time to buy one of those mouthwatering brownies I had enjoyed on my arrival in Avignon. It would be a handy snack for my long train ride to Nice.

I had bought my second-class ticket to Nice prior to my trip, direct from the SNCF site, for 21.60 euros, a huge reduction from the full fare of 60 euros. The TGV train left from Avignon’s other station, so first I had to take a 6-minute ride out to there. The TGV (high speed) train left at 3:30. I was looking forward to some great scenery along the way, but dark clouds and heavy rain kept my eyes focused more on my reading material than on hilly vistas. After a comfortable ride, I arrived in Nice at 6:26. First stop was the TI beside the station (it closed at 7pm). Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to take the tram to my hotel as I had planned, due to a temporary disruption in service. So I walked through heavy rain to my lodging for the next 4 nights: Hotel de Suede. It’s conveniently located, with short walks to either Place Massena tram stop or Promenade des Anglais. Old Nice is 5-10 minutes away. Lots of shops around. There are 2 price levels for single rooms; I opted for the higher-priced, larger single, at 80 euros per night, including breakfast. That room actually contained a double bed and a twin beside it. Washroom was spacious and modern. Walls were thin, however – I could hear my noisy neighbors coming home at 5:30am, talking, laughing, and…

At this point, I need to confess that I haven’t been entirely honest with you. The title of this trip report says I was traveling solo. Well, from this point on, that’s no longer the case. Although I had planned this as a solo holiday, when my cousin from Belgium heard I was coming to Nice, she asked if I wouldn’t mind some company. I wasn’t about to deny her request, as she had been to the area before and would be able to guide me around (at least in Cannes and Monaco). We’ve traveled together before and had fun. And besides, with her around, I would have someone to dine with in nice restaurants.

We met in the hotel lobby; she had arrived about 3 hours earlier. After settling in, thoughts quickly turned to dinner. It was 8 o’clock and I was definitely ready to enjoy a real meal. Enough with takeaway stands and plastic cutlery, it was time to treat myself. It was raining so hard that we chose one of the first restaurants we found, right by our hotel, along a street filled with food options. As a Canadian, ‘Le Quebec’ restaurant obviously beckoned. The waiters led us to a nice table upstairs, near the window overlooking the street, a cozy spot on a miserable Saturday night.

We started with a glass of champagne (9.60 each, or about equal to my daily food budget the past 3 days!). I had the grilled entrecote with fries (25.20). Not surprising considering our touristy location, there was no free carafe of water offered – they charged 4 euros for a half-liter bottle of water. We shared a carafe of rose wine (19 euros). For dessert, the best crème brulee I’ve ever had (7.90) and an espresso (2). It was a nice splurge and a great chance to catch up with a relative I hadn’t seen in 2 years. We capped off the evening in Cours Saleya, site of the daily markets, enjoying a glass of Sauvignon blanc in a pop-up lounge bar set up in the middle of the street. Thankful for the clear plastic walls and heat lamps, which provided some respite from the lashing rains outside. In spite of the weather, many locals were out patronizing the many watering holes along the market street. We would definitely return here several times over the next 3 days.

deonca

<b>Day 9 – Daytrip to Antibes & Cannes</b>

At this point of the vacation, two-thirds of the way through and based in my last town, I slowed my tourist pace considerably. I was really satisfied with how I had planned the trip up to this point, and with what I had seen so far, so I took the foot off the gas pedal a bit and took it a bit easier. Although I had certainly laid out a daily schedule for the Cote D’Azur, I knew that I was no longer traveling alone, so I didn’t worry about adhering to a strict schedule. Besides, I knew that with only 3 full days in the region, I wouldn’t be able to visit everything on my original wish list: Cannes, Fondation Maeght, Chagall Museum, Monaco, Antibes, Eze, Villa Ephrussi, Menton and Nice itself. We’d just try our best to see what we could, while allowing ample time to just stroll, have a nice dinner, and enjoy a glass of wine on a sunny terrace. I especially wanted to savour some Mediterranean sunshine before heading back to chilly Ontario. With that mindset, it was time to kick off the home stretch of the holiday…

Breakfast was only served at the Hotel de Suede until 10am, so after being out late the night before, we had to scramble to make it on time, arriving at about 9:45. The selections offered on this first day were exactly the same the next 3 days: two or three kinds of juices, baguette, croissants, pain au chocolat, bread for toasting, yogurt, fruit, cereal, cold meats, cheese, and two hot dishes: scrambled eggs and bacon. Quality was good each day, and the multi-beverage machine produced excellent coffees, available in several varieties.

For this first full day in the Nice area, we decided to head west, to Antibes. At the tram stop nearest our hotel (Place Massena), I used my chip-and-pin debit card to buy a 10-ride ticket from the machine (10 euros). We rode the tram up to the stop about 100 metres from the SNCF station ('Gare Thiers'), headed inside the station, and bought our tickets to Antibes from the machine for 4.50 each. It was a short trip of only 22 minutes.

Antibes had two main points of interest for us: the yachts in the harbor and the Picasso Museum. First we spent quite a bit of time admiring the large vessels, noting the origin of each boat. I noticed several from Georgetown, Barbados, along with many European locations including Gibraltar, Luxembourg, Antwerp and London. Without doubt, the showstopper was the ‘Dilbar’, a 5-level mammoth yacht from Georgetown. Incredible.

From the harbor we walked along the walls to the large ‘seated man’ modern art piece by Jaume Plensa called ‘Nomad’. Just a taste of the artistic side of Antibes that we would enjoy later. We followed the ‘Quai des Pecheurs’ (from where the fishermen set out), before heading through the arch and into the old town. I was initially surprised to see English pubs, until I read in my guidebook that there are many Irish, Aussie and English living in Antibes, working aboard the yachts.

We soon came upon the market, but they were hosing off the street as it had just wrapped up for the day. Picasso Museum wasn’t open until 2, so we had half an hour free. What better time to visit an inviting creperie?! I had crepes on the brain for over a week now, so it was a perfect opportunity to satisfy that urge. I opted for a sweet crepe with pears, chocolate and almonds (6 euros); my cousin chose a savory crepe with ham and cheese. Obviously my crepe knowledge is lacking: it was news to me that the crepe batter itself isn’t the same (I thought the sweet and savoury designations were only indicative of the toppings on the crepe). The patio was heated so we were nice and warm. We sat at a table for six, with another couple on the other end. Soon enough another couple arrived, looking for a space, and they were seated in the open spot in the centre. Immediately they had struck up a friendly conversation with the strangers at the other end, which carried on the whole time we were there. I had read about this in my research for a prior trip…how Europeans will sit with strangers at long restaurant tables and simply start chatting with them, but it was the first time I’d witnessed it. How nice!

It was now time to visit the Picasso Museum. Anticipation was high, as memories of my trip to Barcelona’s excellent Picasso museum entered my mind. Entry fee was 6 euros, with no lineup to enter (this is a recording…)

Picasso lived in seaside Grimaldi Castle for a few months in 1946. He turned out a great many pieces, which he left here in the custody of the castle – ceramics, paintings and sketches. ‘Joie de Vivre’ is likely the best known work here. I never did see any signs prohibiting photography, but I kept my camera in my bag throughout the visit. However, I couldn’t resist the urge to take a picture of this large painting. Standing between the gallery attendant and the painting, I discreetly snapped a flash-free photo while holding the camera at belly-height. Two seconds later, the attendant, who had been playing a game on her mobile phone while seated several yards away the whole time, suddenly strolled past…but by then my camera was in my pocket. She said nothing. Towards the end of the tour, in the room with Picasso’s sculptures and dozens of beautiful plates, I wasn’t quite so bold as to attempt another photo, as that room had two or three staffers keeping a very close eye on things. The museum isn’t large, but that didn’t diminish my enjoyment of this collection of joyful Picasso works, plus works by other artists including Joan Miro and Nicolas de Stael. By the way, this museum has another of those 50-cent pay toilets, fairly common in the cities I visited on this trip. We spent about 10 minutes outside admiring the modern non-Picasso pieces on the terrace. In total our visit lasted one hour.

This wrapped up our 4-hour visit to Antibes. We walked back to the train station and bought our tickets to carry on our westward daytrip towards Cannes. The quick 10-minute trip cost 2.90. We arrived at around 4:30, with about an hour of daylight left on this dreary Sunday afternoon. My cousin had been to Cannes previously, so I let her guide me (although there’s not a lot of guiding required here). We reached La Croisette, the main shopping boulevard along the sea, in less than 10 minutes.

Our tour consisted of a stroll along the ritzy Croisette, past Hotel Carlton and the obscenely expensive designer boutiques, up to Hotel Martinez. We didn’t enter the lobby of either hotel, choosing to turn back and head towards the Film Festival Hall. I had my eyes peeled for Lamborghinis, Ferraris and Porsches, but didn't see anything more expensive than a Volkswagen, probably the Cannes equivalent of what we call a 'winter beater' back home.

In front of the festival building are handprints of the stars, but since it had rained so much, the sidewalk was under about 2 inches of water. It was also dark by now, and the area isn’t very well lit, so I couldn’t make out the identities of the famous handprints. We took the obligatory pictures of ourselves standing on the steps leading into the festival building, noticing the beautiful water-channeling handrails along the steps down. Then we walked around the building, dodging construction fencing that seemed to block our every path. Eventually we made a ¾ lap of the building, when my cousin led me over to her recommended dinner spot: Le Grand Café. http://www.le-grand-cafe-cannes.fr/plan It seemed very inviting, and not at all busy at about 6:30 on a Sunday evening, so we headed inside. I wasn’t feeling 100%, so I wasn’t in a mood to have a big meal, but the meal (and mostly dessert!) did wonders for my headache. No wine tonight, just an Orangina (3.70).

I had the delicious ‘Pennette Deux Saumons’ (14.50) – penne with 2 salmons: chunks of grilled salmon mixed into the penne, then topped with a slice of tender smoked salmon. At some point of the holiday I wanted to enjoy a great seafood meal, and this definitely met that requirement. But the dessert was even better. For the first time in my life, I had ‘Ile Flottante’ (5.70): meringue floating in crème anglaise. Instantly it became one of my favorite desserts. It’s a true ‘finesse’ dessert, all light and airy, and just sweet enough. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Floating_island_(dessert)

We caught the train back to Nice at 9pm (6.80). 25 minute trip. We finished the night with a drink at Akathor pub in Cours Saleya. This place caught my attention because the AFC Championship game was playing on the TV on the patio. We’d seen a lot today, but looked forward to a little Mediterranean sun to brighten things up a bit for us tomorrow!

deonca

<b>Day 10 – Nice is Nice</b>

A gorgeous, sunny Monday morning in Nice! Our first glimpse of glorious Mediterannean sunshine! Now this is what we came for!

After breakfast, my cousin and I made the short walk over to Cours Saleya. This being a Monday, the antique market was up and running, featuring all sorts of old bric a brac. My cousin, who has a fondness for all things Louis Vuitton, was most impressed by the 2nd hand LV bags for sale at the market – but still carrying a hefty pricetag. They were originals, according to the expert eye of my cousin. The stand that I found most appealing was the one carrying vintage posters (about 12 x 20 inches). There were classic ads for liquors, beers, automobiles, fashion, Coca-Cola, you name it. We enjoyed browsing through the dealer’s massive collection, although photos were forbidden. I was tempted by a few posters, but doubts about the feasibility of getting them home intact, as well as the prices – many in the 15 to 20 euro range – kept my wallet firmly tucked into my pocket.

At the east end of Cours Saleya, we took the free elevator up Castle Hill. We spent at least an hour up there enjoying the great views and the stupendous waterfall. I spoke earlier about slowing my sightseeing pace, and this is one time where I didn’t care at all about keeping a schedule. I could have stayed up there for hours, just taking in the wonderful view and enjoying the shady park.

Our plan was to purchase the 24-hour Riviera Pass. I had 3 or 4 must-see places on my list, and they were included on the list of attractions covered by the pass, so I figured we’d save a bit of money with it. We just had to do our best to visit them all within a 24 hour period. Being out on Castle Hill, however, we had to buy the pass first – and that required us to walk back to the tourist info office along Promenade des Anglais, near the McDonald’s, quite near our hotel. That was a walk of about 1.5 km. The fact that it was a spectacular day, the first we’d enjoyed along the Riviera, made the walk even longer. We simply couldn’t move any quicker...it was as if we were moving in quicksand, as though the goddess Nikaia was using some ancient mythical power to morph us into sun-worshipping chilled-out strollers. Finally after about 30 minutes we arrived at the TI and bought our passes. It was around 3pm, so I figured we’d make the highly-regarded Villa Ephrussi our first stop, and then visit the remaining attractions the next day. In order to reach the villa, the TI staff told us to take Bus #81 towards St. Jean Cap Ferrat. We asked where we could pick that up…and were told it was well east of there, PAST Castle Hill, up in the port area! Really?! Another long walk back from where we just came? That was going to require some energy, so we headed for the quickest food option…McD’s, for the 2nd time on my trip. Sometimes you just have to let convenience rule above all. (As an aside, McD’s is not necessarily a ‘fast food’ spot based on my experiences here and in Lourdes. I waited at least 15 minutes in both places for my meal, much much longer than in Golden Arches I’ve visited at home).

We started the long walk towards the port to find Bus #81, past Castle Hill and around the bend. Again, we fell victim to the charms of Nice, and couldn’t help but admire the sea, the sun and the s – no, not sand, it’s not a sandy beach – more like s-tones. Eventually we made it to the bus stop, only to find we’d have to wait another half hour until the next bus came by. At this point, it was after 4pm, simply too late to ride out to Villa Ephrussi and enjoy a meaningful visit (they closed at 6). So we looked at the map, and realized we were fairly close to Place Garibaldi, which marks the north tip of Vieux Nice. We walked to Garibaldi and decided to regroup and formulate our plan for the rest of the day. Of course, the best place to do that was from a sidewalk café, and obviously a glass of wine would be required to help us make an informed decision! (A glass of Sauvignon Blanc cost a mere 2.90).

I wanted to visit at least one of the Riviera Pass attractions on this day, so after looking at the long list of options, we decided to do the included wine-tasting. We walked into Vieux Nice and in a few minutes arrived at ‘Cave Bianchi 1860’, where there was a 6pm ‘degustation’. This visit is listed in the Riviera Pass brochure as having a value of 7 euros, although I fail to see how it’s assessed. We received one glass of white, and about 15 minutes of explanation, mostly promoting the house wine. And that was it. My cousin bought a bottle of Taittinger pink champagne, for about 60 euros, for us to enjoy in the room. She did receive a 5% discount using the Riviera Pass. The shop itself carried an impressive selection of wines and liquors. I found prices to be higher than back home in Ontario. For example, a bottle of B&B Liqueur, from France, cost more at Cave Bianchi than at my local LCBO store. Go figure.

After our tasting, we walked to the nearest tram stop and rode up to Nice Etoile shopping centre, along Avenue Jean Medecin. We browsed until closing time at 7:30, then shopped at the nearby Monoprix supermarket for some canapés to enjoy with our champagne. My cousin, who has a restaurant background, was pleased to find exactly what she was looking for at the deli counter – a pate called ‘Riette’. Not sure if I’m spelling that right, but it certainly was the perfect match for our glass of bubbles.

For dinner, we followed a guidebook recommendation and selected ‘Da Acchiardo’. We arrived at around 9:30, and had to wait for a table. One never knows exactly who’s dining with you, but I sense that this cozy restaurant was filled with locals. The fact that it was packed on a Monday evening heightened our anticipation for a great dinner. I had my first ‘Salade Nicoise’ (10 euros). I had planned to eat steak as my main course, but the waiter cautioned that the salad was so big, I should think twice about having steak. I appreciated his candor; I'm sure many waiters would have treated me as a disposable tourist who he would never see again, by letting me overpay for food I wouldn’t be able to finish. The salad was indeed a full plate, with about a dozen ingredients. Fresh and delicious. My cousin started with a beautiful carpaccio.

My main course was the ‘Raviole Daube’ (10 euros) stuffed with beef and served in a sauce that tastes exactly like my Mom’s stew. Fabulous, and clearly homemade. It had been a long two days since my last crème brulee, so rather than endure any longer without, I ordered it for dessert (6 euros). Unlike at Le Quebec restaurant, this one was served with toasted pine nuts on top. Stellar.

For you beer drinkers out there, here’s what I experienced. I’d been to a few bars and restaurants over the past few days, and seen ‘Monaco’ listed on the beer menu everywhere. I just assumed it was a local brew, so I ordered it at Da Acchiardo. Well, it’s not what I expected. A Monaco is a concoction containing beer, grenadine and soda pop (locally known as ‘limonade’, sort of like Fanta). It was all very sweet and really not very good.

A fine glass of rose wine cost only 2 euros, bringing my meal total to 31 euros. Frommer’s Provence guidebook describes this restaurant as ‘a little bastion of traditional family cooking’. Based on our visit, that’s a perfect description. We left entirely satisfied, with the quality of the meal, the prices, and the prompt, friendly down-to-earth service. A highlight of the trip. Next time in Nice, I’m going back!

On paper, we may not have made the most productive use of our time today. We should have bought our Riviera Pass when we first left our hotel, because the TI was nearby. We should have known in advance where to get the bus to Villa Ephrussi. We should have researched the schedules for Bus #81. But you know what? Some days you just have to ditch the Type-A intensive planning and go with the flow. We had a great day and looked forward to exploring Monaco tomorrow.

joannyc

I'm adding that restaurant to my list, thanks!

Looking forward to tomorrow!

deonca

<b>Day 11 – Last Full Day: Monaco & Villa Ephrussi? Let’s Settle For Villa Kerylos</b>

In order to catch the changing of the guard in Monaco at noon, we needed an earlier start today. Fortunately, we awoke to our second consecutive sunny morning. We trammed to Place Garibaldi and walked to the nearby stop for Bus # 100 to Monaco. Upon boarding, we validated our 10-ride public transport card, which still had a few rides left. We stayed on the bus for about 45 minutes, our mouths agape at the spectacular scenery along the way. It’s definitely recommended to sit on the right side of the bus, so you have the Mediterranean beside you the whole way. My Rick Steves Provence guidebook provided an excellent commentary to villages we passed, including Villefranche-Sur-Mer, Cap Ferrat, Beaulieu-Sur-Mer and Cap d’Ail.

Unfortunately, we got off the bus at least one stop too early. I thought we were at Place D’Armes (the nearest stop for visiting the Royal Palace), when in fact we exited in Fontvieille, close to Stade Louis II (soccer stadium). From that early stop, it was about a 10-minute walk to Place D’Armes. Before climbing up the ramps to Prince Albert’s house, I availed myself of the nicest public washroom I’ve ever visited. And it’s free! Save your 50 cent coins, mes amis, we’re definitely not in France anymore! Indeed, the Prince does take care of his subjects (and the tourists).

Along the ramps up to ‘Old Monaco’, we passed a statue of Prince Rainier, gazing out towards Monte Carlo. At the top, we had some time before the guards did their thing, so we visited the nearby Cathedral, where we saw the burial site of Prince Rainier and Princess Grace, among other members of the Garibaldi family. I was quite impressed by the interior of the moderate-sized church, particularly the very modern blue organ. The dark grey blocks were a little different from those used in many European churches I’ve visited.

Changing of the guard took place at 11:55, and lasted less than 10 minutes, before a crowd of about 50 people. We couldn’t tour the interior of the Palace – it’s closed in winter. We walked through some lovely gardens (with great views of the rooftop gardens of Fontvieille below) on our way to the Oceanography Museum, spectacularly perched high above the sea. www.oceano.org Admission was free with our Riviera Pass (regularly 14 euros). The museum and aquarium are simply outstanding. Your jaw drops the moment you enter the building. The gigantic wooden cabinet ‘Oceanomania’, by American Mark Dion, is billed as the world’s largest marine curiosity cabinet. Marvelous!

Exhibits combine cutting-edge technologies with a nod to the seafaring past of the Grimaldi family. Google’s ‘Liquid Galaxy’ was a really cool example of the high-tech learning toys. It was one of the most impressive museums (and aquariums) I’ve ever experienced. I’m sure we spent at least 90 minutes inside. There was even an opportunity to touch small sharks as they swam around their shallow pool. Up on the roof, the views were incredible. If you go up there, look for the turtles. They really really really like one another…and aren’t shy about displaying their affection publicly…

We followed the street opposite the museum to the bus stop, and hopped aboard Bus #2. The two-euro ride was probably the best investment we made all week; it was certainly the best time-saver. I couldn't imagine walking up there. We wound down past the casino, and uphill again where we exited at the ‘Jardins Exotique’ stop. We got in free with our pass. Regular value is 7 euros, although our experience here was similar to my visit to Pont du Gard. No one at the gate seemed too concerned about checking the passes or charging admission – people were just waved on through. Before entering, we took advantage of the instant coffee-brewing vending machine, for a little caffeine hit (only 70 cents). The gardens were delightful, and as advertised, very exotic. Cacti everywhere. Definitely the greatest variety I’ve seen anywhere. We spent an hour traversing the paths, drinking in the amazing views as we went. Make sure you pack plenty of camera memory and battery power if you’re coming up here!

The bus was just leaving as we left the gardens, so instead of waiting for the next one, we decided to walk down to Place D’Armes. That turned out to be an interesting trip! We asked locals for directions along the way, and they kindly directed us to a series of about half a dozen elevators. It felt like being in a video game. Elevator. Tunnel. Turn. Elevator. Long tunnel. Elevator. The descent took about 20 minutes.

It was about 4pm by now, so we had a decision to make. Either we could go to Monte Carlo and visit the casino, or get ambitious and go to Villa Ephrussi, which closed at 6. Both were high on my list, but I really had my heart set on the Villa and its gardens. We decided to get on Bus #100 (1.50; we couldn’t use our Nice transit card here) to the ‘Eglise’ stop in Beaulieu-Sur-Mer. I knew this was the stop for Villa Kerylos (also highly regarded in the guidebooks and included with our Riviera Pass), but I thought we could also reach Villa Ephrussi from the Eglise stop. I guess I should have researched it a little more thoroughly. We saw no signage for Villa Ephrussi, at least not immediately. It was about 5pm, and we didn’t want to go on a wild goose chase and risk coming up empty, so we decided to ‘settle’ for the nearby Villa Kerylos, which closed at 6. We arrived there at about 5:15, and declined the free audioguide (regular admission here is 11 euros). It really was a shame that we had to rush through this stunning reconstruction of a luxurious Greek palace, unable to properly savour the exquisite details. It’s completely furnished and decorated. The ‘Galerie des Antiques’, a gallery at the water edge, displays life-size casts of the most famous Greco-Roman statues. Big wow factor. I guess Villa Ephrussi will have to wait for my next trip to the Riviera. Make no mistake, Villa Kerylos is a unique place and I’m glad I got to see it.

At 6pm we left Villa Kerylos, caught Bus #81 back to Nice’s Place Garibaldi (1.50), then returned to the hotel to freshen up for the final dinner of the trip. We had fared well in Old Nice the night before, so we returned there again. After window-shopping all the menus up to the end of Cours Saleya, and being aggressively courted by menu-toting maître-d’s on the street, we followed our gut instinct and chose ‘Le Grand Balcon’, near the Opera. We were partially drawn inside by a good-value menu posted on the chalkboard out on the street, but interestingly that menu was nowhere to be found on the actual menu we were given inside. Prices were considerably higher, either for the set menus or individual selections. We inquired about the menu advertised on the sidewalk, were told that it was available, and ordered it. What followed was a meal that would definitely let us finish the holiday on a culinary high.

The starter was a small (but delicious) Salade Nicoise, which I actually enjoyed more than the one I ate the night before at Da Acchiardo. Main course was salmon in a beautiful yellow mousseline sauce, served with rice. The sauce had a bit of a lemony tang to it, perfectly complimenting the delicate fish. Our duo-mousse for dessert was fantastic as well. The 3-course menu was an excellent value at 21 euros. A bottle of Carlsberg cost me 6.80; café au lait was 4.10. The front dining room was filled with a large tour group; thankfully we were seated in the quiet, classy rear dining area. I’d definitely recommend ‘Le Grand Balcon’ – but probably would find the regular menu selections beyond my regular travel dinner budget.

deonca

49 days after starting this report, it's time for the exciting conclusion…thanks for reading this far, and for your patience as I try to write the report in my free time…

The weather forecast looked perfect for our final morning, so I decided to squeeze every last second of enjoyment out of our stay in Nice. I got up before dawn and made the short walk down to the beach to watch the sun rise. Although we had hoped to rent bikes and ride down towards the western end of the promenade while in Nice, we never got around to it. So I walked as far as the grand Hotel Negresco, which I hadn’t yet seen, before turning back and walking along the pebbles in the direction of the sunrise. Soon enough I was joined by pigeons, seagulls, a few other sunrise-watchers, and a lot of cyclists zooming along the promenade. After about an hour of waiting, and seeing the sky turn various shades of orange and red, le soleil appeared at exactly 8:01 am. It was gorgeous. A few fishermen were setting out in small boats. About 15 minutes after sunrise, I returned to Hotel de Suede to have breakfast and collect my things for checkout. Since I was traveling only with a carry-on sized bag, and I had bought souvenirs and several CDs along the way, I really didn’t enjoy the packing process, but fortunately I found room for everything. At least we weren’t flying out on Ryanair, so I didn’t have to be ultra-particular about bag dimensions or weight!

A final word about Hotel de Suede and why we picked it. I spent several days intensively researching hotel options for each city I visited. But for Nice, I let my cousin lead the selection process. In previous trips we’ve taken together, I’ve had final say on hotels, but they led to problems – mostly for her. To be specific, she ended up with miniscule rooms or bad views or noisy neighbours, and I felt kind of bad about that. So this time I let her choose. She emailed me a list of about 8 places along or near the Promenade des Anglais, and asked for my choice. I researched them all and compared prices, and chose Hotel de Suede. The hotels along the promenade were twice the price. And I really can’t justify paying for a sea view when you really aren’t in the room much anyway. If I were to return to Nice, I’d look for something in the same general vicinity, or at least something close to the tram line, but as a bit of a tightwad, I think I could do better than 80 euros a night.

Back to my report. After breakfast we had 2 or 3 hours left to do just a bit more sightseeing. We hadn’t yet visited a ‘regular’ (non-antique) market in Nice, so we walked over to Cours Saleya to check things out. This was the traditional market I had missed in Arles, Avignon, Antibes, and all the places I’d visited so far…the schedules just hadn’t worked out. I was still so full from breakfast, that I was unable to try the famous socca. It was a delight to browse through the market’s wide variety of spices, flowers, fruits and vegetables, along with the cool art prints for sale. We picked up a few souvenirs, including fleurs de sel and herbes de provence.

On our walk back to the hotel, we crossed the brand new ‘Promenade du Paillon’, pausing at ‘Le Miroir d’Eau” (28m squared surface with 128 water spouts). The water spouts were synchronized to techno music. Everyone around seemed impressed and all were smiling. I wish we could have spent more time exploring this exciting new addition to the city. Around Place Massena, grandstands were already set up for Carnaval, which was still a few weeks away. One can only imagine the excitement of being here for that event. Although as someone who only seems to travel when European towns are devoid of tourists, I’d probably find it quite jarring to be around for one of the year’s busiest events. Prices would be higher, buses would be crammed, and I’d have to forget about finding a table in any of our Old Nice restaurants without a reservation. Maybe I’ll stick to traveling in what my friend Benoit described as ‘la saison morte’ 

At noon we went to the Russian Cathedral, the largest one outside of Russia. It’s about a 10 minute walk west of the train station. Unfortunately, it was closed over the lunch hour (posted hours were Tues-Sun 9-12 and 2-6). We could get no closer than the locked gate, about 100 yards away. The Cathedral’s bright colours really popped under the noontime sun. Would love to have seen the interior (the Cathedral does have a great website filled with photos…that’ll have to suffice for now.)

My last French souvenir – a selection of macarons - was purchased at the bakery around the corner from the Cathedral. I wasn’t terribly familiar with these sweet treats before my trip, but having tried them in 3 different places in France, I have drawn a couple of conclusions. One, they’re not cheap anywhere, so don’t expect to get a 300g bag for 2 euros, as we buy our Oreos or Chips Ahoy in Canada. They averaged about 1 euro each. And two, although I enjoyed the pre-packaged ones from the supermarket, the bakery macarons are even better, so spend the extra 25 cents apiece, or whatever the difference is. I asked the girl at the bakery to recommend her 4 favorite flavours, and wasn’t disappointed. Although those macarons didn’t make it home with me, I clearly recall the wonderful texture and terrifically bold and varied flavours, especially the fruit-flavoured macarons.

And with that macaron story, I’m afraid that’s about all the travel excitement I have to share. The rest is pretty ho-hum. We bussed back to the hotel to collect our bags, killing our Nice travel cards in the process, then took a taxi to the airport, which wasn’t far away. I knew there was a reasonably-priced bus to the airport, but my cousin insisted on paying for a cab, so I didn’t object. She paid 30 euros for a trip that only lasted about 12-15 minutes. On my own I would have taken the bus, which I believe costs only about 6 euros.

Inside the fairly small Nice airport, from the departure area, you can see the ‘Baie des Anges’ and the city of Nice. The city was instantly appealing, so I enjoyed being able to savour its sunny shoreline up until the moment of embarkation. The beautiful winter climate, the wonderful restaurants, the inviting beach and promenade, and the easy transport connections make it a place I’d love to visit again. From Nice, we flew to Belgium together, where I enjoyed 4 more days with family before heading back to frigid Canada.

In closing, I’d like to thank you for reading all or part of the 25,000 words I’ve poured into this report. I really can’t believe I wrote so much. Although my friends were curious about how my trip went, there’s no way any of them are so interested that I’d be able to describe my trip to them in such detail. Most would lose interest after 1,000 words. But this forum has given me the opportunity to describe, to complain, to compliment, and to just talk with like-minded individuals. For that I’m grateful.

If you’re traveling to any of the places I’ve visited, I wish you a fun and safe holiday. Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have. I’m happy to help you plan your next trip! Now there’s a bottle of ‘La Vieille Ferme’ Cotes du Rhone red sitting on my kitchen counter, and in honour of finishing this tome, I’m about to heed the call of the roosters on its label. Cheers! Now, if only I could find a decent pintxos bar, an ile flottante, or a macaron around here…

kelsey22

I loved your report. I am soon departing for much the same itinerary. I am sure I will have questions! Thanks so much for sharing. I also have to say that there is nothing in Canada close to a French macaron - and I have searched...Thanks again.

joannyc

Thanks so very much for a wonderful trip report, deonca!

I'm printing it so I can use some of the terrific info for my trip in September.

HappyTrvlr

I enjoyed every word of hour wonderful trip report. I've been to many of the places you went , and my most recent trip was to Nice. The Russian Cathedral was closed touring our whole visit. You must see Villa Ephrussi and it's gardens and have a seafood lunch in the small port town of St-Jean, down the hill from the villa. We also enjoyed Villa Kerylos very much. We both need to return there! Thank you for taking the time to write such a terrific report.

tomarkot

Deonca, again, thank you so much for your wonderfully detailed and interesting report! We're sure that your information will be helpful to us and others who plan to travel to some of the places you've visited.

deonca

Thanks for the great comments everyone! It was nice to re-live the pleasure of being on holiday as I wrote. It really does extend the vacation, even after one returns home.

Kelsey and joan, hope you have great trips and I'm looking forward to hopefully reading your trip reports when you return. Enjoy the French macarons Kelsey!

noe847

Lovely trip report!

deonca

Thanks noe! Appreciate you having a look at it!

noe847

I found this report because I'm planning a Barcelona to Lourdes itinerary for this summer. Your info on Bilbao and San Sebastian will be useful, so thanks for that. I was most interested in your report on Lourdes. Last summer I volunteered as a bath attendant at Lourdes for a week and your experience is true to how I experienced it both as a helper and a bather. It is an amazing and powerful place, and I have been drawn back to work there again this year.

Dukey1

Absolutely great report in every respect. Happy you enjoyed your visit to Lourdes and all your activities there. We've been twice and find it fascinating in so many ways. It is fortunate to be able to visit and not be in search of a "cure" which so many of those people are. Truly heartbreaking in some ways. There have been changes over the years to include the removal of that vast collection of crutches, etc., which used to hang on the walls of the grotto. However, in the church above the many plaques of thanks make one so grateful.