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Basque Country during Carnival
We are planning a repeat trip to San Sebastián at the end of Feb/early Mar. We loved it so much we wanted to bring our son and girlfriend there. Last time we went mid April.
My question is what is it like during carnival? It would be great to see a traditional celebration (we loved new years in Rome and Lisbon). My concern is the crowds and ability to get pintxos! Any information would be greatly appreciated. thanks! |
I'll differ to our resident Basque, mikelg, to describe San Sebastian's Carnaval for you, as I haven't been.
The specific program for 2025 isn't up yet, and it will be in Spanish/Basque only from the Tourist Board site. Of the northern Basque and Navarran Carnavales, I've only attended the ones in Lanz and Ituren-Zubieta in Navarra. But I strongly suspect San Sebastián's Carnaval won't attract hundreds of foreign tourists, as it's not as famous as the one in Tenerife, so the crowds in the pintxos bars should be mostly locals or Basques and Navarrans primarily during the month of February, the low season. But again, I haven't been during the Carnaval, I've only been in late January for the Tamborrada, which attracts primarily a local crowd. I would urge you to venture out of the Old Quarter (Parte Vieja) for your pintxos crawl after visiting the usual suspects there (which are always crowded), as there are fine pintxos bars in the less congested, foreign visitors frequented parts of the city--- in the Gros quarter, at Bodega Donostiarra (now on both sides of the street), Bar Bergara (where the concept of this miniature haute cuisine got its start) and Gatxupa (a Mexican-Basque hybrid) in the center at La Espiga, Biarritz in the Hotel Niza, the original Antonio Bar at Bergara 3 (go early), Iturrioz, Casa Vallés (where the famous gilda pintxo was supposedly invented) and the bar at Narru (Hotel Arbaso, but pricey, incredible chistorra). At these, you won't find crowds waiting outside the doors during Carnaval. |
@Maribel excellent!! I've written all of your great suggestions down!
Fingers crossed on @mikelg giving his great advise :) How were the Carnivals you attended? In case we decide to venture out. |
rivermama,
Since you plan to travel to Donostia/San Sebastián at the end of February/early March, 2025, you'll miss the Carnval de Ituren-Zubieta in Navarra, which is celebrated on Monday and Tuesday after the last Sunday of January. But during your stay, the Carnaval of Lantz will be celebrated on Sun/Mon/Tues before Ash Wednesday, March 5. Here's a bit about the Carnavales de Lantz. Legend says that Lantz, since it sat on the way to France, there were once bandits who abused and robbed the residents of the town, and of all of these the worst and most feared was the bandit Miel Otxin. Tuesday is the big day when festivities begin with a late breakfast (almuerzo) at 10, then at 1 pm the dance of the Zorziko, then at 2 the Kalejira (dances) through the streets begins. At 3 pm villagers go to the Posada on Calle Santa Cruz, the local rustic restaurant, for a traditional meal, then between 6 and 8, the same morning activities are repeated, then the last Judgement and Burning of the effigy of these feared bandit Miel-Otxin takes place in the pelota court (frontón). Here's a Lantz sits about one hour, 20 minutes south of SS, in a very pretty valley. The village has only 140 inhabitants. |
It looks wonderful! Thanks for the information, we are still hammering out the dates but I’d love to see this!
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This just came in my inbox by blogger, cookbook author and SS resident Marti Buckley about the February festivals (but check next year's dates for the exact days they'll be celebrated. Here are here descriptions:
Caldereros (February)Location: Parte Vieja (Old Town)In early February, Caldereros, or the awkwardly translatedTinsmiths Festival, signals the start of Carnival season in San Sebastián. Participants dressed in colorful costumes parade through the Old Town, banging on pots and pans to mimic the sounds of the Roma tinsmiths who once traveled the region. This lively, participatory event is filled with music, dancing, and a playful atmosphere, preparing the city for the upcoming Carnival festivities. Purpose of event? Mainly to keep us all alive during nonstop cold and rain. Iñude eta Artzaiak (February)Location: CitywideFollowing the Caldereros is Iñude eta Artzaiak, a Carnival tradition that reenacts the courtship between nurses (iñude) and shepherds (artzaiak). This whimsical parade features men dressed as nurses and women as shepherds, dancing through the streets to the sound of folk music. It’s hard to describe, but this is perhaps one of the most lovely and surprising of the city’s festivals. |
Sorry for not stepping in earlier...but the last info provided by Maribel is very accurate for Donostia-San Sebastian carnivals. Spain celebrates carnivals in very different ways in many places, the Basque Country is rich in mithological carnivals and really worth visiting some of them (like Ituren and Zubieta in Navarre, for example, or Aratusteak in Mundaka, those in Tolosa are very famous, Lanz and Leiza, .., and so many other places). Not in English, but this is a good video for those in Ituren,
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rivermama,
Just so that you'll know, the Carnaval celebrated in the villages of Ituren and Zubieta takes place on the Monday and Tuesday after the last Sunday in January, so in 2025, since the last Sunday in January is Jan. 26, then the carnaval will be celebrated on Monday and Tuesday, Jan, 27 and 28. That's why I mentioned in my post 4 that since you plan to travel to Donostia/San Sebastián at the end of February/early March, 2025, you'll miss this one but. could attend the Carnval de Lantz. https://www.visitnavarra.es/en/w/itu...ieta-carnivals I completely forgot about the Carnaval de Tolosa, that I've always wanted to attend but never have...thanks mikelg for the reminder....some day!. https://www.tolosaldea.eus/en/carnival-of-tolosa/ |
@Maribel and @Mikelg
Thank you both for all of the information! I will review all of the links and decide where and when, we are not fixed on dates. |
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