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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 01:12 PM
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sha
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barging in France

Hi Fodorites:

My husband and I were inspired by a TV show to explore renting a barge and barging on a canal in France next September. While we're intrigued and it sounds so wonderful, I have some concerns. We're healthy 60 yr. olds with 0 nagigational experience. After reading about problems with locks on the canals, I'm wondering if we can do this.

Any thoughts? Any opinions on the prettiest and easiest canals to handle? Any input would be much appreciated.


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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 02:22 PM
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Hi, sha! Before last year, we had many concerns like yourself--My husband is 61 and we couldn't find anyone else interested in doing a canal trip with us and we thought it would be too strenuous--so we didn't make the arrangements with the intentions of going another time.

However, during our month long trip through France we kept being drawn to the canals and their penichettes! Finally, no longer able to resist, we took an impromptu long weekend trip through Locaboat starting from the base of Lutzelbourg (Canal de la Marne) We had a blast! and it was the highlight of our trip. This was the beginning of October and it was so beautiful with the leaves, but the nights did get a little chilly...no problem- the heating system was very safe, quiet and worked like a charm.

Being a novice boater should not be a problem (we have a boat at home); they are quite easy to maneuver and come heavily bumpered "just in case". We were just SHOWN how to drive--since you have no experience I would definitely run it through the maneuvers PERSONALLY (forwards/reverse/docking) with the company's representative aboard before heading out.

Can't say enough positive things about the Canal de la Marne - especially going up the vertical plane (the only one of its kind in the world they say) and the gorgeous countryside. If it's big city life you want, this isn't the canal for you. After the first lock experience we weren't so nervous and it's not so crowded in September, many times we were the only boat in the lock. The locks are not manned on this canal; you just send one person up to the little house at the lock, press the speaker button and let them know you're going up or down and they signal you with a green light and open the lock electronically. You close the lock yourself by pressing a button on the lock side wall. The rest is automatic. For the driver (husband) it was pretty equally easy to lock up or down. For the rope handler (me) it was easier to lock down than to lock up because you start out at the same level as the quai (platform) so it is easier to get on/off the boat and get the rope around the peg (bollard?) to keep the boat stabilized. For starting out, I would prefer locking down, but we managed just fine having to lock up the firt time and so would you. Be sure to bring a pair of leather gloves.

We also visited a base in Cognac (Charente river?) and would consider this for another trip. It is much wider and has interesting cities like Cognac and Saintes to visit along the way. We loved both these cities and just scratched the surface in this area. This fall we will be scoping out the burgundy canals for future use, sound especially appealing during harvest time, tho that won't help you now will it?! Perhaps the most popular, thus the most crowded, is the Canal du Midi in th south. Even in September it was pretty hot there last year, and I remember wondering how uncomfortable it would be on a non-air conditioned boat, though much of this canal is sheltered by plane trees.

If you do a text search on my name I've done a few trip reports/responded to questions in the past, and a search on canal barges/bargin will get you some threads also.

As long as you are agile enough to hop on or off a boat a foot or two to a bank, you should have a great time. I think all the bigger companies are reputable i.e. Crown Blue and Locaboat. We preferred the traditional style of Locaboat's penichette to the speed-boat looking style of Crown Blue though they each have their pros and cons.

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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 06:06 PM
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I should correct myself...locking UP from Lutzelbourg, your route is going to be a lot of coutryside w/few large towns. However, locking down in the opposite direction from Lutzelbourg, the very first town you come to is flowerboxed Saverne, a lovely stop-off where we had spent the night before we took possession of the boat, and further on down the line is the large, cultured city of Strasbourg. As for the base of Lutzelbourg, it is a post-card perfect little village so typical of this area. Much, much prettier than the Crown Blue base IMO.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 06:35 PM
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We went "barging" with a full service company. It was absolutely wonderful. We are pretty "plain" folk. It was nice to eat well, drink well, be taken around well.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 06:39 PM
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which one, Gretchen?
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Old Aug 3rd, 2004, 06:51 PM
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Abercrombie&Kent--we were on the Lafayette. EXcellent all the way.
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 02:42 AM
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We have been barging in Burgundy both on self drives and a crewed barge. The self drives are very easy to manage. It has been a while since we did the self drives but the locks there were manned so you had someone there maybe not to help but to advise. Just remember that the lockkeepers close for lunch. The crewed barge was a slice of heaven but expensive.
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 05:09 AM
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A group of us, 14 rented two of Crown Blue's "barges"...7 on each boat. We did the Soane and the Canal du Central... lovely...absolutely tremendously beautiful. We were there the first week in June. I was the rope handler on our boat too (I was 50 then...) I loved it BUT I would want to do it with perhaps another couple...for the just in case situations. That said, we saw lots of couples on peniches...or smaller boats that were just as comfortable and happy as clams.
I agree, take the lessons when you rent from the operators...and the first lock or two...you'll have it down. Take leather gloves.
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 05:40 AM
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sha
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ujHi Everyone:

I thank all of yopu responders heartily, Any information is really appreciated.

Additional information I should've provided follows. We truly love small villages, great scenery, history, architecture and vineyard visits. I'm sure this fits the bill in many areas of France. We've been through a good bit of Provence and were thinking of either Burgundy, western Loire, or the Dordogne. We would travel around 1 week and barge the next.

We're looking forward to seeing other great responses. Thank you.
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 05:48 AM
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We wanted all that plus great wine and foo. We were in Burgundy. Cote d'Or

Best of luck! Bonne chance!
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 05:16 PM
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We did such a trip several years ago and had a wonderful time. We used Locaboat Plaisance (if you do a search on this forum you will find lots of info). We did the Canal du Rhone/Midi. Hope this helps.
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Old Aug 4th, 2004, 06:36 PM
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go look around http://www.bargecompany.com/
We went on La Tortue last summer. Fully staffed, 6 of us- 3 generations. We have friends that did self drive & loved it too, but did get tired of all the locks. So read up on the various degrees of services. Yes, crewed is $$, but our Canal du Midi trip was a trip of a lifetime for all 3 generations.
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