Barcelona . . . or Leon-Salamanca-Segovia?
 

Hello all,

We're beginning to explore ideas for a Spain trip next year. We have been thinking of going to Barcelona as a base for 10 nights, and going to places in the region like Besalu and Cadaques.

As I read more and more about Barcelona, I see comments by a significant minority of Fodorites who have never really “gotten” Barcelona. And then there’s Gaudi. I’m reading about him and looking at a big coffee table book of all of his work, and, uh oh, I don’t “get” his stuff either. It all seems loaded with unnecessary frivolity and kitsch. But maybe it looks different in the real world?

There’s another area of Spain that looks very attractive, west and north of Madrid, that I’ve been looking at, cities like Leon (seems splendid), Salamanca (ditto), Segovia (ditto yet again).

So here’s an inquiry somewhat like “should I go to Rome or Venice”. I understand that all of this totally depends on individual tastes, but I would welcome any opinions about these cities and regions. Our tastes: architecture, ruins, food, drink, museums, walking old preserved neighborhoods.

Thanks in advance!

I recommend the second choice even though I adore Gaudi. Cruise ship crowds have made Barcelona difficult to enjoy. Go inland to those beautiful cities for a treat.

Well, you are definitely considering two very different areas! Some thoughts:

Re: Barcelona plus. I do enjoy Gaudi, and I found his work much more accessible in person than when looking at pictures, as I think he was a master of creating and managing space. Too, I think Lluís Domènech i Montaner – the other great architect of Barcelona’s modernista style – extraordinary and surprisingly different from Gaudi. And I found much to enjoy in Barcelona beyond these two architects. BUT if the intentional introduction of humor into architecture isn’t your thing, Barcelona’s modernisma night not sit well with you, even in person.

Leon / Salamanca / Segovia might give you a more diverse experience, in that these three cities are, IMO, astonishlingly different. I think Salamanca one of the most beautiful cities in Spain – and I say that even though Platteresque is not, in general, among my favorite architectural styles. Segovia holds a charming combination of Roman and Romanesque and medieval facades, while Leon holds Romanesque and Gothic treasures that much more clearly demonstrate the wealth of a major stop along the ancient pilgramage routes.

I never wrote a report on the trip that included Salamanca and Segovia; maybe you’ve seen my report that includes Leon and Barcelona (along with Besalu, Cadaques, etc.)? I’m sure you know how to find it….

Been to all and loved all - especially Salamanca - Leon was a nice surprise far exceeding expectations - Segovia neat because of alcazar or whatever they call that awesome castle and also the adqueduct but the town overall seemed nice but not exceptional to me - given your aversion to Barcelona I think the choice is clear but what time of year are you going - Barcelona is not super mobbed all year. Barcelona as a physical city never did much for me but its parks and yes Gaudi stuff were so neat.

Have you been to Toledo - bestest city in all Spain IMO but I guess also more crowded in recent years.

Haven't been to Segovia, but loved the other three. However, ten days seems a bit long for Barcelona even with day trips.

I found Barcelona much more enjoyable staying in the Eixample area, and I am a big fan of Art Nouveau so of course I enjoyed the Gaudi sights, but there are other architects from the same period who also have work in Barcelona.

I love Barcelona and I have no real interest in Gaudi. Much prefer the older Cathedral to La Sagrada Familia. The city itself and the people are worth the trip.

If you want something different I'd lean towards Seville and Granada.

In May we visited San Sebastián, Bilbao, Leon,Burgos, Salamanca, Segovia and Madrid. We enjoyed it all. In 2017 we visited Barcelona,Madrid,Seville and Granada. Both trips were fantastic with my absolute favourite being Seville because we were there in May when the jacaranda’s were in bloom, and they are my favourite trees. Bilbao comes in second because of the magnificent Guggenheim. But personally I don’t think you can go wrong with any of your choices. The only place I wouldn’t return to is San Sebastián, and that is because I’m not really a beach person. However the food was great.
I have to say the majority of accommodation in Spain was of a very high standard, and the people were very friendly. Enjoy whatever you decide.

I've been to Salamanca and Segovia, but not Leon. I also haven't been to Barcelona, so I can't make a comparison. However, I really enjoyed Salamanca and especially Segovia, which I visited twice, and it would be easy to entice me back. There are some great walks in Segovia, including walks outside the walls. You could easily spend several days there.

I would also recommend Toledo and Ávila. On our most recent trip to Spain, which is already more than 10 years ago, we stayed three days each in Segovia, Salamanca, and Toledo. We also visited Ávila, La Granja (San Ildefonso), Coca, and El Escorial, either as day trips or en route from one to the other.

I have been to Barcelona and Costa Brava for a 10-day trip, so I don't think 10 days is too long. We loved Barcelona for its Gaudi sites, cathedrals, parks, and just wandering around different neighborhoods, such as Gracia. We then rented a car and did a 3-night road trip along the Costa Brava and into the Pyrenees. We definitely could have used more time for our roadtrip. We stayed 1 night in Cadaques (beautiful), and 2 nights in Girona, a lovely city, and then a day stopping in Besalu, Ripoll, Rupit and Vic. The Pyrenees and surrounding landscapes are gorgeous! I wish we had more time for our roadtrip. I haven't been to the other places you mention, so can't compare.

Thanks everyone for your ideas. Barcelona is still on the list, there are several things I'd really like to see--the Miro museum and the Romanesque church frescoes and the museum of art especially, also maybe take the little train up to the villages on the edge of the Pyrenees, a day trip down to Tarragona. And I just met a delightful family from Barcelona, at the museum up here in Vermont where I am a guide in the summer. Maybe the universe is telling me something. But the other cities I mentioned, and which several of you mentioned, look terrific. Spain is such a treasure chest. Looks like there are no wrong choices.

also maybe take the little train up to the villages on the edge of the Pyrenees>

What train you talking about? One that goes Barcelona to French border by La Tour de Caole?

Or the one from Perpinan - about an hour by high-speed train from Barcelona and the lovely Little Yellow Train - a narrow-gague train doing exactly that?

Exactly!

BTW, I hope you saw my clarification about the National Art Museum of Catalunya on one of your other threads:
https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...1654958/page2/

@palenq: I was thinking of the train from Ripoll to Ribes and then the little cog railway from Ribes to Queralbs and Nuria. I think I have those connections right. Have you done this?

@kja: Yes, I did read that. In fact, I've read all of your Spain material, very very helpful.

No not familiar with those trains but see them in Thomas Cooks European Timetable - yes you are right. I have taken Barcelona-Puigcerda train that you'll take to Ribes and nice but not awesome scenery.

In have visited Barcelona 7-8 times...so much to see, with 10 days you might plan
2-3 day trips.
I have not been to Leon,
Salamanca is beautiful, Segovia was a day trip from Madrid .
i would go with Barcelona.

Oh good! I could see how my comment could have been misunderstood, and wanted to make sure that I was a bit clearer. And I'm glad to know that you find my comments on Spain helpful!