barcelona or Bust? Maybe it should be Paris. A trip report take 2
 

Take 2 because I screwed up the format on 1- sorry I should know better

This was not a typical trip for me, it was more of a scouting trip for a planned late spring move to Barcelona. And although we managed to fit some fun in, it was an exhaustive scouring of the city called Barcelona. So if anyones interested this will be the start of an ongoing report of how two gals will somehow manage to relocate themselves and a business from NY to Europe.

Here's the background first. Last year I took a trip to Morocco and Spain with my friend Robin. It was while in Valencia on a beautiful sunny day spooning hot chocolate out of a cup at an outdoor cafe that I said, " I could live here!" Not in Valencia exactly but in Europe, somewhere. Robin quickly piped in, " Oh, I could too! ". I said I was serious and that in August of 2001 I had begun taking French while living in Chicago because I wanted to move to Paris. But then 9/11 happened and like much of the country got all freaked out. Robin said she had always wanted to live in Barcelona. Barcelona huh? I could do Barcelona. I had been there about 5 times before and really liked it. Next thing you know I'm back in the States and informing my family I'm moving to Barcelona. Decision happened just like that. Are we crazy? Probably. BUT hey, you only live once and I don't want any regrets of at least not trying. So, as scary and unsettling that it is, I'm doing it. We are doing it.

For about the past 6 months I have been researching. Expat pages, real estate, visas, blogs, bookmarking hundreds of pages. The first thing I did was ask my mother whether she still had her Hungarian citizenship. She was born there came after the war and and did not still have it. She started the paperwork to get it back and found out in the process that her children are entitled to Hungarian citizenship as well. She recently received her papers, sent me copies and I am now in the process of taking dual citizenship which will allow me to live and work in a EU country without any special visas.

So, here was the plan. We decided to start some serious planning and not just talk after we returned homefrom Thailand in Sept. But then I got swamped w/ work and then my annual holiday fair in NYC. We would collaborate when we could but we were both so busy. In the midst of the chaos it was decided that we would open a gallery. At first we thought a mosaic art gallery, after all Ive been a full-time mosaic artist for the past 10 years and have (knock on wood) been quite successful at it. I have done a lot of commission work for clients in Europe and figured it would be a good fit.Plus, my stuff is urban and modern as mosaics go and haven't seen a lot of that over there. Problem is ,I'm tired! Tired of working crazy hours, tired of crazy clients and tired of cutting my hands so much. The solution, a gallery that would be 50% my work and 50% other American craftsman that don't presently sell in Europe. I would be creative director in charge of all things aesthetic and Robin who is an absolute sales and marketing wiz would handle the business end of things. Seemed like a good plan. Seemed being the operative word. ( More on that later). And, I apologize in advance if I jump around on this report but my mind lately is like a Mexican jumping bean party 24/7.

We decided we would go to BCN for 8 days end of January for a first scout. 8 days turned into 5 because Robin is flying part time and had her reserve days. I contacted my cousins Spanish attorney located in Marbella who helped him buy his apartment there and set a meeting up for Jan. 28, a Monday. Purchased tickets on Vueling rt same day for 115 US each. Then we booked an apartment thru Cocoon for 5 days.

January 24 we depart JFK for BCN. Flew Biz class, uneventful except for the fact that I did not sleep a wink. The plane was practically empty, being January probably had something to do with it. We land at around 7am Friday morning. And then, like every other trip we've taken immediately hit a few snags. Par for the course for us, it's actually quite comical.

Thru customs quickly and first stop the ATM. Now because I had a problem getting cash when landing in Madrid last year I made sure to call BofA to let them know I'de be in Spain. Robin's bank does not allow her to get money from any ATM's in Spain. Strange I know but true. So She'd give me cash and I'd withdraw enough for both of us. Or so I thought. I insert the bank card, go through the prompts only to see DENIED CONTACT BANK! Damn! hate that! so the next 20 minutes or so was spent on the phone with BofA fraud dept. Had them up my daily withdrawal limit while I had their ear because we had to give the balance of 600 Euros in cash at the apartment.I had made a deposit of 105E roughly 150 US on my cc before we left the states.

Meanwhile, as I am banking Robin is trying to get a hold of Lucas, the owner of the apartment who is to meet us there to give us keys. No answer, no answering machine. Calls Cocoon, message says number not in service.She keeps calling and same story. This may be the time to start freaking out but instead we just start laughing because it is just sooooooo typical.

There we are at the airport, it's about 8 am and no one to meet us at the apartment. We decide to go there anyway, maybe he's waiting, phone in pocket, doesn't hear it ring. We grab a taxi, hand him the address and we are off. 1/2 hour later he drops us at an alleyway on the edge of El Born. We pay him 25 Euro and proceed to look for c/ de la neu de sant cugat #5 2-2. it is located behind Princesa.

It is early, and the only sign of life is..... well there is no sign of life. Seems everyone on that street sleeps in. We start walking down the alley way, clothes drying from every single window. As we drag our all too big for 5 days suitcases behind us we feel we are being watched. We are being watched, by the 2 old senoras peeking thru a wrought iron window in a door at #9. One calls something to us in Spanish. Problem is we speak and understand a bit of Spanglish, but definitely not Spanish and certainly not Catalan.( this could be a problem when living there) We stop, and through the iron grating ask where the address is. They talk amongst themselves.( some of you will remember the 2 older ladies that helped me in Provence, seems to be a theme with me.) Then the door opens and they walk us two doors down to #5. Gracies, Gracies we say. They smile and back behind the grated door of #9 they go.

Here's the deal on the apartment. We booked thru Cocoon Barcelona this apartment http://www.cocoonbarcelona.com/el-bo...tion-en-91.htm

A total of 500 Euros including taxes, cleaning and processing for 5 nights. 105 Euro deposit made at time of booking. Balance of 395E plus another 200E security deposit to be given in cash at check in.
Looks nice, right? Not so fast!
The hallway is so dark you can see nothing through the gate in the door. We are both totally creeped out. Maybe this was a mistake. We wait and we wait. Every man that walks by we say Lucas? and they just look at us like we are nuts. Now 9:30, am we call again, still no answer w/ Lucas but Hooray Matt from France from Cocoon answers. He says check in is at noon. We say we have confirmation for 8 am. He calls Lucas, calls us back says he'll be there in 1/2 hour ( in Spanish time that's 1 hour and 15 minutes)

We drag our suitcases to a nearby smoke filled coffee bar. It was weird it was soooo smoky because there were only 4 people in there. A girl from Santa Domingo who worked behind the bar, her bossman, and two semi-drunk old guys who were probably still hitting the sauce from the night before. We order 2 cafe con leche and settle to spend the next hour basically playing a mix of pictionary, charades and guess what I'm saying for the next hour.

As we head back to the apartment we keep calling out Lucas? Lucas? No one answers. Finally a young guy walks up, Lucas? No, Josues ) pronounced Ho-sway)He works for Lucas. He takes a large old key from his pocket, the kind that would open an old jail cell and opens the main door to the building, it is completely dark until he hits a switch, and then we see it, the staircase from hell, and even though we are on floor 2 it is four flights up stairs which seemed as wide as those you climb to the top of the Duomo in Florence. Around and around each floor, hitting the light switch at each landing until we get to # 2-2.

Through the main door into a foyer area on each side a large sliding red formica door. Each leading to an apartment. We step inside. Looks nice, very small but nice. JOseus gives us instructions I pay him, we get an emergency number, all seems good. Until later.

While Robin starts unpacking I open the large window that looks down on the small street. Then I hear OLA! Across the way at the other balcony which appears so close I may be able to touch it is a man with a flute. His name is Rosendo , which I didn't catch until he went and got his rainbow striped hat that had his name on it. He is from Argentina. He plays the flute on Sunday nights at La Sagrada Familia at 8 pm and invites us to go. How nice our first friend and neighbor. We quickly settle and head out for our first full day. The itinerary El Born and the Gothic quarter.

http://tinyurl.com/2flqwb

Keep posting! I love this! I am really enjoying your style of writing and can't wait to hear more of your adventure!

Before I get into the nitty gritty of the rest of this report I just want to make 3 important points.

1.) I absolutely love Barcelona, think it's a beautiful city

2.) Visiting a city as a tourist and visiting a city as a prospective new home-2 totally different experiences

3.) The fantasy of an idea and the reality of it could not be further apart.

That said, we head out to explore El Borne and the Gothic Quarter. Now this was my 6th trip to BCN, Robin's 2nd I think. But I had not been back since 2003 and things did seem different. Before leaving the US I had read a lot and one of the things that stuck in my mind was how different certain parts of the city were. Different areas had undergone re gentrification and others were in the process. El Borne was one such area that had turned. Located I think to the west of Gotico on the other side of Via Laietana from and stretching to the border of Parc Ciutadella. Borne is supposed to be the Soho of Barcelona. Trendy and hip with lots of boutiques and such. Not so much.Yeah, sure there were some really nice shops,a lot with fairly high price points, but no one was in them. IMO I just didn't get it. Maybe it was the time of day we thought, but it was devoid of people and it was a bit of a bummer.

We walked and walked. Photographed store fronts and jotted down street names and phone numbers on ads. For us the hardest part was not going in and shopping. After all it was 2x Rebexas in Barcelona and we remembered from last year in Spain how good regular Rebejas was. But this was business and we were on a mission. That's not to say we didn't slip up now and then , I mean we are girls and new shoes are, well fabulous.

We spent our time drilling shop owners for information. rent prices, busy seasons, their location, whether tourists or locals were shopping there. We did this from shop to shop taking particular note of crafts shops and galleries.

Here's the thing about the streets in this area as well as Gothic and Raval. They look totally different at different times of the day. It's hard to recognize the same street because some places are closed, some are open, when the one that was closed opens another is closed and it seems nothing is all ever opened at the same time. Stores open and close when they want, we really couldn't figure out what the system was. Did it depend on Siesta, a little bit, but it didn't seem as if it totally did. The first street we did agree that we both loved and that would be a great location for a store was Montacado, the street where the Picasso museum is. But no apparent vacancies.

Our first run through the Borne area was about 2.5 hours. There are some nice shops, but there are also a bunch of crap shops.We found it disheartening. Passaige de Borne which is supposed to be the main drag there was just a drag. The craft shops carried almost all the same stuff, mostly manufactured ( which I hate) and disillusionment began to set in. Depressed and now starving we pop in to a tapas place located at the corner of Canuda and Avinguda del portal de l'angel.

OK I tried to make it a point to grab cards of restaurant names but forgot at this place. Do remember it stated with a B. It was crowded the tapas were beautiful and the way they were displayed. Everything looked so good. Sausages and shrimp and crab salad and croquettes. We each grabbed a plate, picked what we wanted we figured we would just take a bunch of stuff and share. At the end they count your toothpicks, I think we had 8 toothpicks and 2 cafe con leche around 25 E or 36 bucks. A bit pricey for lunch, but we figured we weren't really shopping so whatever.

After lunch we start walking up Avinguda del Portal de l' Angel. It's a wide pedestrian street where a large El Cortes Englais sits and a bunch of chain stores such as Zara. The weather is gorgeous just like it would be for our entire stay. Sunny 60-65 by day and around 45 at night. As I take my coat off to tie it around my waist I think if Nikki's trip report. I remembered how she said as they watched everyone bundled in coats and scarfs and it felt balmy to them. I chuckled to myself because it was so true.

We continue our walk up through Placa Catalunya and onto Passaige de Gracia, which is the main hoity toity shopping drag. Passed Burberry and Louis and then Gucci and Chopard. And we stop. Because there in between Gucci and Chopard is a vacant store front. We both just look at each other and smile. Could you imagine? Now that's a location! We laugh at the thought, must be a fortune! But, maybe not, not compared to NYC rental prices. We peek in and dream a little dream and then I fall off my cloud to reality.

Here's the thing about me and Robin. We are alike in a lot of ways which is good because we are often on the same page but bad because we both always paint the rosiest picture and don't always consider reality in that picture. When going into business with a friend ( which is probably not the best idea) it's good to have a realist amongst you. Someone to play devils advocate. As it would happen I would end up being that person. A role I did not welcome but had to be done.

We continue on Gracia until we get to La Padera and then turn around and head to the Gothic Quarter. It's later in the afternoon now and the streets are busier, but alas the stores are not. We make our way to the Cathedral and I remember there is a large craft gallery around there from a previous trip. We find it and stop in for a look. Most of the product is the same as we had seen in smaller shops, they had some unusual things but nothing that really impressed me. Now I don't want to come off cocky but you would think in a town known for mosaics that there would be better modern mosaic artists. If there are, we didn't find them and trust me we looked! What we did see was either factory made or so poorly done it looked as if my 6 year old nephew made it AND if the craftsmanship was better the designs were Gaudi rip offs, no originality what so ever. Were they not inspired by Gaudi to be original? was it intimidation? what was the problem. We kept bringing this up over the next 4 days. All I know is they could use someone like me in that town. :)

We stop by the area of the Cathedral where they keep the geese. The nativity scenes from X-mas are still standing in the courtyard. A 10 minute distraction and we are on our way again. This day we have the map out constantly trying to get our bearings. By day 3 we wouldn't really need the map anymore.

We had our hearts set on El Borne but after what we had seen this day we were discouraged to say the least. Me more so than Robin and I tried my best not to show it. A hard task for me because I wear my thoughts on my face.

http://tinyurl.com/268ts2

Keep up the story!!

Thanks for re-formating and re-posting...still love reading about your adventure! :)

I've never thought of Barcelona "a city known for mosaics", not at all ! A city known for Gaudí, it's more suitable. There are more variety of every kind of ceramics here in Castellon or Valencia.
In fact, your business chance there (or anywhere in Spain, in fact) it is because your work is VERY original,something new,nothing you can find easily there.

thanks u guys

Yes, kenderina, my mistake in wording. Known for Gaudi who IS known for his use of mosaic in architecture. I guess I was disappointed at that point with what I saw.

Kind of negative thought , laartista ! It is better for business if there is no competition :)

LOL, yep it is negative, BUT I am taking a big risk so I do have to look at all sides even the negative ones and weigh my options. I'm being honest with what I was thinking as it was happening so don't read too much into it just yet :)

Great, keep on writing !! I really would have been depressed after seeing that staircase...LOL

It was early evening and we had plans to meet up with Claire ( Laclaire- here on Fodors) at 10:00 at a bar called Betty Ford's ( love that name) so we thought we would grab a nap for a few hours. I didn't sleep at all on the plane and we had been running around all day so we head back to the apt w/ the stairs from hell. I was so happy I hadn't bought anything. The thought of carrying a bag up those stairs was so unappealing. On our way back we stop at a small grocer to pck up some coffee and milk for the am, some bottled water and shampoo and conditioner. Neither one of us remembered to pack it and thought the other would have.

Now I thought overall Barcelona was pretty affordable even with the whacked out exchange rate. When your coming from NYC area not many places are more expensive. What is, is shampoo and conditioner. The equivilent of 8 bucks for a small bottle of Pantene 2 in 1.

First thing we notice when we get back to the apartment is how chilly it was in there. Probably felt colder because we were so tired, it was around 5:30 I think. We figured we'd nap til about 8pm, get cleaned up and head out to meet Claire. We turn up the heat on both the heaters and crash into our beds which were actually cots from Ikea I think. There we lay trying to fall asleep. It's so cold in there that we just keep taking turns saying, " Isn't it freezing?" and then laugh. And then it began and did not end for the next 4 hours. The drilling and electric saw and hammering. Coming from a window across the alleyway. They may as well have been right in the apartment because it was THAT LOUD!

Oh no! This was not going to work. There was zero sound proofing, I guess you get what you pay for but construction? It's not like we are not used to noise. Sirens are a common occurance outside my windows as are jackhammers, but this, it was almost 7 pm and no let up. We call Lucas, no answer. We call Cocoon and tell him about the heat which was working just not dispersing and the noise. Robin holds the phone to the window so he can hear it. He says to shut the window, LOL, it was shut!
Bottom line he offers our money back or to switch us to another apartment. We opt for the money back, say we'll stay Friday night but check into a hotel next morning. He says Lucas will be by with our refund.

I tell Robin to text Claire to say we have to wait for Lucas and can we meet her the next day. And then we wait, and wait and wait until Angel shows up, another one of Lucas' guys. We explain the situation, he knows nothing of a refund and we get Matt back on the phone. Finally Lucas arrives with an envelope that contains my 600 Euro nad he is gone. So although the apt. kind of sucked I'm gonna give Cocoon Barcelona 2 BIG thumbs up for customer service. Now we just needed to find a hotel.

We head out and walk to the larger main street behind us which is Princesa. Just as we turn the corner is Hotel Ciutat Barcelona.

http://www.ciutatbarcelona.com/

We walk in ask for availability. 110E for Sat night and 80 E for each of Sun,Mon, and Tues. A steal we'll take it! Now that was easy, off to find some grub.We continue walking down Princesa and come to aplace called Princesa 23. The place is large and funky and packed. There is a wait about 15 minutes so we go to the bar. We are actually seated before we had a chance to order drinks. Robin occasionally checks her blackberry for a text from Claire but no word.

The menu is a mix of salads, tapas sandwiches and other entrees. It seems as if the entire clientel is British, with quite a few Hen Parties. I guess BCN is a big Hen weekend destination.. We order a salad and nachos to share. Was kind of odd maybe ordering nachos but every table was eating them so we thought they must be really good. They were. A pitcher of Sangria to wash it down, around 30E total.

After dinner we decide to walk around, still no text from Claire. It was around 11 pm and grabbed my phone to check my voicemail at home. There was a message from Claire from an hour ago waiting at Betty Ford. OMG, she never got the text from Robin! I was horrified. She must think we are just the rudest! I said we have to go there right now, do you think it's too late to call her. Robin didn't think it was too late, it's Spain, they are first eating dinner at 10:30pm and it was just after 11. Robin did not want to go out, she was tired, I said I'd go alone ( i just felt so bad), she said just explain what happened and see if we can meet tomorrow. So I called Claire.

Claire couldn't have been nicer about it, she was first heading out for the night so we made a plan to meet at Metro stop Jaume which was just down the street from us at 6pm on Saturday. It was all good and we head back to the apartment and our third trip up those stairs.

As we got ready for bed we discussed the day and our thoughts. I admitted I was a bit discouraged but was by no means throwing in the towel.It was only day 1. Robin agreed. I said, " I don't care if I have to paint myself silver and stand on a box on Las Rammblas, this WILL happen. I think I fell asleep finally around 2am.

Laartista, thanks for another great report -- I can't wait to hear how it ends! If you and Robin set up shop by May, I'll look forward to being one of your first Fodorite customers...although, I won't try to haggle w/R -- I remember too well her expertise in Morocco!

Day 2- Sooooo Much Better!

We got up at around nine, 2 hours later and a cup of Nescafe we dragged our stuff down those stairs and headed over to our hotel around the corner which thankfully had an elevator AND free internet! Our room was fine, nice size, clean, huge bathroom, and heated.

On today's agenda was Barcenoleta and the Port Vell area. The main thing that was so attractive to Barcelona to both of us is that it was on the coast and had a beach front. There is just something about being close to the water. Maybe it's because I grew up in Florida but I just love coastal areas.

We began our walk on Passeig De Picasso toward the water. We would discover the next day we had taken the long way around and did not realize how close Born was to Port Vell and the beach. We entered Barcenoleta on one of it's small interior streets and wandered our way to the water. Because we were looking at the city as prospective new residents we took note of things I would usually not have. Like where the grocery stores were and took special note of larger markets. We would go in and see what was available in those markets. Dry cleaners and laundromats, how many restaurants were on a street, were there a lot of bars, would it be noisy at night, who lived in those neighborhoods. Things I for one usually don't think about while on vacation. Finally we reach the beach at Placa de Bruguera.

An open square at the start of Passeig Maritim De La Barcelona which is an esplanade that follows the beach to Port Olympic. It was beautiful! Hills in the background, sun was shining , people everywhere. This is what I'm talking about and just like that I was happy and spirits lifted. Definitely have to live by the beach, no brainer. We decide to walk toward Port Olimpic first and then to make our way back toward the other way.

We take note that there are really no shops in this area, restaurants yea, but no real shopping. It suprises us, especially when we get to the port Olimpic area. So a shop in this area would no way work, there wasn't even anywhere to put one so we switch to apartment mode.

So here's the deal on the rents of the areas we have seen so far. Borne Gothic, and Barcenoleta pretty similar. For a nice place that has been somewhat reformed with amenities like elevator, satellite, wifi, around 900-1600E a month depending on the size 1 0r 2 bedroom furnished. With the exchange rate at the high end about what I pay now maybe a bit less. Over 1600 the places jump into a new category and get really nice. If the dollar was better a consideration, but I really don't want to go up in rent. In Port Olimpic the rents are a bit higher but you can still find something in that price range. It's more residential over there and a bit more yuppified where we found the other areas to be more bohemian ( which I like). Originally we thought of getting a big place and sharing BUT I'm really passed the point of having a roommate in my life and I've got a cat and Robin has a dog and no matter how good a friends, working together will be hard enough without throwing sharing a place into the mix. We live in the same building now, which would be ideal but unless you go for a new construction that's going to be hard to find, we'll settle for near by.

We find ourselves near the Grand Casino in Port Olimpic, we are hungry so start looking for somewhere to eat. The restaurants are very busy particularly the ones on the beach. Each place nicer than the next, not cheap, actually pricey for lunch, the crowd is definitely upscale around here and it seems large family groups come for lunch.

In the port there is a 3 tier structure with restaurants and bars on all three floors, we wanted to eat outside because the weather was great but most of those had the plastic patios set up, it is "winter" for the locals. The places along the beach all have outdoor seating, many places with couch like seating. A lot of seafood but we didn't want to drop 80 E on lunch. We come to a plcae called Agua, they have tapas, prices are reasonable, plenty of open seats outside, we approach the hostess. They are full! Full? Yes, FULL, no reservation no seat. Had to laugh. We leave and make our way back toward Barcenoleta stomachs growling.

http://tinyurl.com/2e9mfd

Okay, Love the picture of the fat guy in the speedo!! LOL We were all cracking up. My daughter wants to go to Spain (especially Barcelona) and we were thinking of going this summer but our plans changed. We got frequent flyer tickets through Paris. So, Paris became our add on to our Austria trip. But I promised her someday, I will go with her. She loved the pics.

I am loving the tale. Please continue!

Wonderful. Love the pictures. Just be careful. When I posted my pictures from Barcelona last year, it turned out that a guy in one of the photos was a friend of Claire's. So if you say you are hoping that guy on the beach will be your boyfriend, you never know, he just might see it!

And speaking of Claire, what goes around comes around. When I met her for the first time, I was waiting for an hour in front of the Hard Rock Cafe before she reached me on the cell phone to say she was an hour behind due to a misunderstanding of what time zone she was in. Don't ask.

Glad you got out of that apartment, sounds like you definitely traded up.

Thanks mvor, nikki and girl on go.

girlgo-That guy in the speedo was doing this weird dance and it was just so funny I had to get a picture. Video would have been better for sure.

Nikki- so funny, I remember that photo friend thing from your trip report LOL

I love when you say "bohemian" !!
I think here in Spain the word has a different sense...I mean, it is not positive :)

LOL Kenderina! You are busting my chops! Well it means artsy, laid back here so it's a compliment in my book :)

I know, I know for you it's a compliment :) But I'm doing something to you that I can't find in the dictionary...what's "busting my chops"? I hope it's not too bad, I'm really enjoying your report !!