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Barcelona - mixed review
I feel slightly hesitant to post this - since a negative review always seems rather shallow - like you've missed the point of a place.
So a few disclaimers first: we went in mid-February and had fairly nasty weather. This had two effects: one, getting from place to place becomes more of an effort since you are getting cold and wet; and (ii) everyone is indoors, and in Spain everyone smokes. They smoke 24/7. They smoke like their health service have told them that it's necessary for their health to have a cigarette on the go at all times. I've been in Spain quite a lot before - but generally in Spring, Summer or Fall when you tend to be outside. You don't notice the smoke so much then, but when you are all packed in one small space .... Other disclaimer - I went with my young son, so although we were doing the sightseeing and the eating out, we weren't doing the clubs [!] and I know from a lot of friends that much of the "point" to Barcelona is the nightlife. So, some tips. (i) Tip 1: Don't overlook taxis. I read the posts about using the Bus Turistic, and I'm sure they make a lot of sense. But we found Barcelona taxis fairly cheap, and the traffic fairly light by European standards - so we found it fairly easy and very quick to get from place to place by walking or by taxi. Also the taxi to and from the airport cost c.20 euros each way, and was fantastically quick and easy. (ii) Tip 2: ask yourself what kind of hotel you want to be staying in. We stayed in the Hostal Palacios in the Eixample. It was central and easy for eating out etc. But, like many of the "hostals", it was a converted floor of a large apartment block. This meant two things: first there was little or no sound insulation between the rooms - so if you've got neighbours who come back at 2 or 3 a.m., be prepared to share their hours. Not great if you've got younger kids. And secondly the plumbing is often ... basic is probably being kind. Because they are running small pipes into odd little bathroom cubicles that they have built in what were originally sitting rooms or dining rooms, the plumbing isn't very effective. Our hostal had electric toilets, which are never great, and which really add to the noise levels - especially when used by your neighbours at 2 or 3 in the morning. Next time we will stay in some bland but harmless hotel chain, rather than the haphazard local hotels. (Hostal Palacios has been spoken of well on this board. Other than the quality of the accommodation, which I was really unimpressed by, I wouldn't say anything against it. The people running it seemed friendly. But for a hostal, even what held itself out to be a top end hostal, it wasn't cheap - and there was the usual nonsense about how you were getting an internet price and so you had to pay cash. Never again. (iii) Tip 3: get to the Gaudi early. We were in Barcelona at what must be one of the quietest times in the tourist season, but by the time we got to the Casa Mila at 9.45 (about 15 minutes before it opened) the queue was half way down the street - and it was much longer when we came out. Similarly the queues for the lift to go up the towers of the Sagrada Familia. I can't imagine what it's like in summer. The Casa Mila in particular was brilliant - the roof is essence of Gaudi and the exhibition and apartment are done really well. The Sagrada Familia - to my eyes - seems to be being ruined: the new stuff they are building takes all the kitsch elements of Gaudi, without his inspiration - but that is probably just a matter of individual taste. (iv) Tip 4: Montjuic - we ended up on Montjuic having trecked all the way down to the harbourfront, made our way down deserted windy wet streets round onto a long spit of land to get to the cable car (small excited child) to find it shut. So we got a taxi. Taxi is easy but less thrilling than the cable car. We get to the National d'Art de Catalunya but it's mainly shut at the moment. The large Romanesque section is open, but nothing else. I never did find out where the rest of the pre-20th century art was lurking, but don't look for it on Montjuic yet. Summary: choose hotel carefully - even good hostals may be more basic than you expect. Adjust to Spanish idea that cigarettes are essential life support, and must be constantly waved in others' faces so as to share health giving properties. Take advantage of superb public transport, but you may find that superb taxis don't work out much more expensive. Go when it's not raining. Hope this is of some help to others. |
Sorry to hear about your bad spell of weather. The only time I was there was in late March and we had rain for about half of our six days, including the day we visited Casa Mila's wonderful rooftop, but we still thoroughly enjoyed Barcelona.
Interesting you encounted such a long queue at Casa Mila; I don't recall that when we went there. Gaudi's buildings sure are fascinating, aren't they? My favorite was actually Casa Batlo, especially when lit up at night. Re: <i>Adjust to Spanish idea that cigarettes are essential life support, and must be constantly waved in others' faces so as to share health giving properties</i> Pretty funny way to put it. Yeah, still a lot of people who love to smoke, in Spain and elsewhere in Europe. But there also seems to be increasing public awareness of how unhealthy it is and the non-smoking percentage of the population will likely increase over time. |
I would have replied more quickly, but I've been practicing smoking. We leave for Barcelona next week.
Actually, I think that you were just unlucky, especially in terms of weather. We were there in June, and we had very little trouble with crowds. At Sagrada Familia, we took a guided tour, and possibly for that reason we didn't have any wait for an elevator, and we didn't major crowd problems anywhere. I'm a little concerned about the weather this time, but we enjoyed the city so much that I don't think it will interfere. |
I was in Barcelona in May last year and there were no queues for the stairs to climb the Sagrada Familia - and it's well worth the (fairly easy) climb for the views from the top.
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I', glad you overcame your "hesitation" and posted your remarks. I love Barcelona and have always had good weather when there. I disagree that the much of the point in Barcelona is the nightlife...and frankly a great deal of what the city does has is kinda tame when compared to nearby Sitges...I think the point is actually a lot of what you did.
And I heartil agree with your "tip" about the sort of accommodations you want to stay in....knowing what these places comprise, or probably will comprise, makes decisions a lot easier. I'm contually amused at the number of folks who rant and rave about staying in hotels that have "charm" and then get annoyed when it is hot and their charming little hotel doesn't provide air conditioning like those big, nasty, totally charmless, BUT COMFORTABLE chain hotels! My advice: go back again and do the things you didn't get to do the first time assuming there are any. At any rate, thanks for an honest and totally straightforward non-tour-guide-icky sweet "trip report." It was in many ways refreshing to read. |
Hi Plowden,
I just returned last Saturday from Barcelona - based on your weather report, it sounds like we may have been there the same time! I was there Feb 17-21st. Just to give you a different perspective, since this board thrives on differing opinions: 1) I also stayed at the Hostal Palacios. Maybe I am a tight sleeper, but I was never woken up by people coming in late, and I was usually in bed by midnight. The plumbing worked fine. Yes, it was a little loud, but the toilet flushed as it is supposed to and my shower had good water pressure, so I didn't mind a bit. I liked the charm of the lounge and they let me use the internet for free. So, I thought it was a good price for the place and location. Further, I was happy to pay cash to save 10 euros a night. What's the big deal with one more ATM trip? 2) You say use taxis. How about the metro or the bus? I used the metro to get to some places, the Bus Turistic for 2 days (which probably would have been more fun if the weather was better). Further, I took the airport bus back and forth to the airport - 3 euros and 45 cents. 3) Also consider going to Casa Mila late, compared to early. The house is open until 8pm. I went at 6:30 and got in after waiting on a short line. 4) Sagrada Familia to me was fascinating. Did you go to the museum? They are building to Gaudi's specifications, using the materials Gaudi would have used, and using many of the techniques from Gaudi's time. The model shop showed how they are using Gaudi's plans to work on it. Not sure how it it therefore getting "ruined". 5) I agree that it seems everyone smokes! Don't take this as an argument, I can completely understand that everyone has different tastes and ideas of what things are or should be. I loved Barcelona, despite the weather, and I'm sorry you had some disappointments. I am in process of posting a trip report if anyone reading this thread is interested. It's called "Spain Trip Report - Kaudrey Returns". I haven't gotten to the Barcelona part yet, but I'm getting there. Karen |
Hello Plowden:
Thank you for posting your "Trip Report". I appreciate that you worked up your courage and that you did it. BRAVO! Fodor Folks can be a tough crowd to "work" at times...Maybe all the rain will help...maybe, the thread is still young yet. I too spent time in Barcelona and I too have a portion of my 2.5 Month Trip Report dedicated to my time in Barcelona. I too had rain during part of our time in Barcelona (in the SUMMER, so go figure...) and I too detested the chain smoking...everywhere and I too posted about our transportation issues: horribly expensive parking and I too had a hotel issue in Barcelona and I too travelled with a child...I mean my husband...well at this point of our 2.5 months I was acting like a child too at times. He did not want to go clubbing and so I too am clueless about clubbing in Barcelona... so see, you really are not alone...so cheer up! YOU GOT TO GO TO BARCELONA!!! Yes! I appreciate your "tips" but as a writer/reader I wish you could take a second "slice" and tell us how you really felt about the whole trip. Ok, so that is a woman thing..."tell us how you felt" but you know what I mean huh? BTW: If I mentioned, in writing, my son as a PART of a "disclaimer" he would be asking me questions. This is not an attack. Just a note from a mommy. Of course this is not the worse thing you could do. You took him to Barcelona so all is forgiven! Can he write a report with say your "supervision"? I have no idea how old he is. I think that with the thread about travelling with teens/kids/infants or whatever the question of the day is, people may find his perspective on Barcelona like your perspective on Barcelona to have some value... I guess what I would love to see from you Plowden (There goes the "teacher" in me...) is for you to tell me/us about the rest of your trip in Barcelona. What did you do? How long were you their? Where did you eat? Who did you meet? What did you buy? How much of the Fodor advice shaded/enhanced your trip? How much did/did not? This is just me prodding you. Ignore me. But, as a traveller I am just as nosy, interested and curious as the next person... What breaks my heart is your Gaudi experience...I would have died but, again I LOVE Gaudi and devoted much of my time and my travel money to "get my pound of Gaudi flesh!" Was their any "good" or special thing that you got out of what you did get to experience with Gaudi? My Best, Oaktwon Traveler |
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