Barcelona Barcelona where have you been all my life! Days 1 and 2
 

Hi all,

I'm not sure how often I'll get to post on here during my trip but, after so much helpful advice from Fodorits, I wanted to at least say I have arrived and, well, WOW!!

Yeah, no revolutionary statement there, I know, but hey - it's my wow and I've never been able to say it before because not only have I never been to Barcelona, or Spain for that matter, but I've never been to Europe before now.

I'm from Australia so it's not a revolutionary statement either to announce that the plane trip was long ... But it sure felt longer than when I went to Canada, although the this one was only 22 hours, while the Canadian journey was over 24.

Anyway, after a long trip leaving Friday night Australian time, via only a rushed 20 minutes in Singapore, we finally landed in Barcelona at 8am Saturday. Quickest customs and baggage collection I've experienced and we were quickly in a taxi on our way to our apartment in l'eixample area. By now I was hot, sweaty and tired, so when we had to wait an hour for our host to arrive just to store our bags til 2pm I was getting grumpy but quickly found a lovely cafe where they were very kind and let me change into my skirt and top.

Our bags stored we headed to Carrer d'Enric Granados, where we'd been advised had good coffee, by an Australian gentleman on the flight who was married to a Spanish lady and was meeting her back in her home town. Coffee was OK. After feeling like I'd been eating for 24 hours on the plane, I wasn't hungry just yet - also the climate and time zone is so different my stomach is still adjusting!

We then wandered up Avignuda Diagonal and onto Passeig de Gracia - OMG we are really here! It was an amazing feeling. We wandered in and out of shops and just relished being in the heart and buzz of a Barcelona weekend. We sorted our phones, then found ourselves in Placa de Catalunya and onto La Ramblas, and then into the Mercat de la Boqueira. OK so I have to use that word again - WOW! And yes I had to use it in capital letters. The fruits!! The tapas bars!! The meats!! The seafood!! The vegetables!! The people!! In case you're not sure, I love it. We purchased ourselves some fruit and then headed back to the apartment as it was ready to check in and out third friend's flight had arrived.

Check in done, it was time for some tapas. We were incredibly early by Spanish standards 5.30pm, but luckily enough for us, that had that had been recommended (Flauta in l'eixample) was open and occupied by other keen diners and drinkers. A wine in hand, some prawns watering my mouth and I felt like I had arrived in heaven.

We stayed on for a couple of hours, drinking some more, eating some more (the feta was unlike anything I have had at home; the vegetables so fresh; sardines so amazing I actually liked them (I don't usually) and the prawns were amazing. And the vino went down pretty well too.

Onto another tapas bar for some more vino and vodka and by then my body clock was hitting the alarm buzzer. It was approximately 6am Sunday morning Australian time and I had had five hour sleep since Friday morning, Australian time, so if I was going to get through the rest of the trip it was time for bed!

I fell into unconsciousness the moment my head hit the pillow around 10.30pm and didn't open them again until 6am. I felt victorious; I was now on Spain time!

So, after easing into the morning, I got up and into my running shoes, out the door just after 7am. I admit I was a little hesitant about this. I love to run and I love to see other places as I run. But not knowing the city, but knowing it was warm (24 deg already compared to my winter at home), could be busy and I could easily get lost, I was a little daunted. But I told myself the only way to overcome any concerns I had was to just get out there and do it. And so I did. I planned to run to Parc de Ciutadella- thanks to some Fodor advice - via the Arc de Triomf - but when I got to the Arc, my eyes were so in love with what they were seeing that I had to keep going. My planned 6km journey expands to 11km, as I made my way to the beach and back. I did feel a little ill as my stomach adjusted to the warm weather run at a strange time of the day (compared to the Australian time zone), but I didn't want to stop. I ventured through the Parc de Ciutadella on the way home, found some presumable backpackers camping out, some homeless person people whose beds were benches (saw lots of these through my wanderings, like most cities) and some early morning table tennis players. The parc is beautiful! I hope to return in the morning, perhaps for a walk around the perimeter this time.

Eventually home it was time to shower before brunch. We found the most delightful cafe, where our wait was 10 minutes but I read online it can be up to an hour for lunch. Brunch & Cake in l'eixample is its name and I - among many others - highly recommend it. The coffee was amazing!! As good as Melbourne's. I still wasn't hungry after my warm weather run but the menu looked so good and I knew I needed food so I ordered avocado toast with a side of fruit sales and granola. I couldn't get through it all because the avocado (with lemon and feta was so rich) but it was mouth watering. My friends had a bacon bagel with eggs benedict and a waffle with eggs benedict respectively.

Time for some shopping in the mall off Placa de Catalunya (I haven't bought anything yet but plan to go back on our last day - Tuesday), but first watched the amazing cavalcade of motorcycles roar their way through the Dreta de l'eixample - apparently it was to honour the war. Does anyone know mor about this??

Then it was onto Montjuic. Again WOW! We toured through the Castell and gazed over the views. We walked down a bit and I wanted to see the national gallery but we got ourselves a little lost and because one friend was feeling unwell and the other wanted to go home, we got into a cab and they went home while I got them to drop me a Placa d'Espanya.

Enjoying being on my own for a bit, I wandered around, through the shopping centre and up to its rooftop view, before getting the metro back to la Boqueira only to find it closed. Should have checked but oh well. I then wandered back through la Ramblas and to a tapas bar my friends had picked out. Some vino later, I left them there and have headed back to the apartment.

And to this trip report ...

My friends are now back so I best shower before it is time to head to dinner at Teresa Carles.

I will pick this thread back up soon I hope.

Adios until then. I will try to give trip reports as regularly as I can. Tomorrow we are off to Sagrada la Familia and then Parc Guell.

RT.

thank you so much RT for taking the time to drop in and tell us how you are getting on. it's great to read someone so enthusiastic not to mention energetic.

don't worry about us, we'll still be here when you get home - get out there and enjoy yourself!

No thank you annhig. It's all you guys who helped me plan this and now I'm living and loving it!

Thanks for posting...I felt the same way my first time in Barcelona
Been back eight times.

I am going to follow along - I leave in a month so any pointers will be most appreciated! I love the enthusiasm!

Sounds wonderful. I'm along for the virtual ride.

WOW...I definitely agree! I was in Barcelona a month ago and it is the one destination that I will return to over and over again.
Enjoy every minute.

Great! I would love to keep sharing my experiences with you. kelsey which area are you staying in?

Question for the experienced trip reporters - do I continue to update this report or start a new one for subsequent days?

RT

Oh and I just reread this and found all the typos - I'm doing this on an iPhone so I apologise! There doesn't seem to be a way you can edit it either. I'm sorry it looks a bit sloppy.

RT

Just a couple of tips:

On this Thursday night you can experience the "duende" of flamenco in an apartment in Gaudí's out of this world La Pedrera (Casa Milà): https://www.lapedrera.com/en/activit...-at-la-pedrera

The Grec festival is going on through all of July. Concerts and performances every night in the spectacular outdoor Teatre Grec at the foot of Montjuic or in close by and prestigious Mercat de les Flors.
The Grec theater and the "Ciutat del Teatre". http://www.barcelonaturisme.com/wv3/...el-teatre.html
Program and tickets: http://lameva.barcelona.cat/grec/en/

Can highly recommend a late night dinner after a concert up here in Xemei, 300 meters from both Teatre Grec and Mercat de les Flors. Had one of the best meals of my life here in March. The Bigoli en salsa Veneziana tasted like nothing I've eaten before: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Lvcjtoh0tU

Thanks kimhe, we leave Wednesday morning unfortunately.

We are now on our way to sagrada, may do Parc Guell later, perhaps some shopping too. I think we are booking dinner at Pla tonight.

Tomorrow we are doing a bike tour and then shopping if I don't do it today. I'd really like to go back to Montjuic to the gallery but not sure I'll have time. There is so much more to do but time is against us and I guess that there'd still be so much more to see and do no matter how long I spent here!

Pla sounds like a good plan. Have two more excellent Barcelona days!

Yes, keep updating this trip report, so that it's all in one place. Enjoy the Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell.

OK, thanks Rubicund. I wish I could edit the title in that case because I am now on day three of four!

So, to pick up the thread where I left off yesterday as promised, we headed to Teresa Carles for dinner. It is a vegetarian restaurant about 10 minutes walk from our apartment, near Placa Catalunya. I think it is officially in the El Raval area. And it was sublime. One of our group of three is vegetarian and a foodie, so she has been finding us many amazing places to eat, and this one lived up to expectations. We started with entrée of artichoke hearts with quail egg, goats cheese croquettes, a light salad and 'healthy nachos', before moving onto mains. We each picked a pasta - I had a pumpkin ravioli on a bed of eggplant cushions, another had 'pasta paella' which was divine, and the third of our group had a mushroom truffle pasta. All up, with a bottle of wine, our bill was €90, which is what our previous night cost us too at Flauta. So good food comes pretty cheap in Barcelona!

We then headed in the direction of the Sagrada Familia, but I'm not quite sure where we're I'm sorry! I think we stayed on La Rambla to get to the little bar we found, deviating down some fabulous laneways. One mojito later and we headed home, with one of us tired and the other wanting to party but not finding much action at 11pm. So home we went for a last vino in the apartment.

I woke early again but didn't get up til just after 7am, opting to walk to Parc Ciutadella with one of my friends. It's about 2.5km from us and with a stroll around the park thrown in we took about 90 minutes. Then it was time for a shower and breakfast before a trip to Sagrada. We opted to go back to Brunch & Cake, so good was our experience there yesterday. The coffee!! I come from near Melbourne, Australia, a city renowned for its good coffee. So we have high standards. This cafe meets expectations and surpasses them. Beautiful. I did kind of regret the coconut bread however - delicious but a little sweet for breakfast. I basically ate cake. Oh well!

Ok so now it was time for some Gaudi! We hopped in a cab. By now it was over 30 degrees, my back was tight and sore from so much walking in the previous two days, not to mention 90 minutes already today and a run yesterday. I'm also still recovering from a foot injury so I am trying to be smart! We got to the Sagrada Familia, tickets in hand and feeling very clever to have pre-booked the skip the line option. Did I mention how hot it was! And crowded doesn't do it justice. It was as though a dozen planes had just arrived, this street was a runway and everyone just hopped out at once!

So it's no surprise to hear I was impressed with what we found inside. The led lights, the beautiful colours and the details throughout the amazing building were mind blowing. We had booked a ticket for the passion tower, allowing us to reach the top via an elevator that lets a small number through each cycle up and down at a pre-booked block of time. My friends were unsure of whether to go after learning of how narrow and enclosed the space would be. But I ventured up (they eventually did too after me). The spectacular views and access to parts of the building still under construction outside was worth it. But I decided to descend via the stairs (you can't go up them but you can go down) and let me just say I didn't realise I had a fear of heights til I was a quarter of the way down. Thank god there was a hand rail! I faced it - not the open descent - and side stepped carefully, chatting to a lovely man from Israel who was very patient with the fragile Australian! On steady, wider, ground level floor, I found my friends and we headed out, bound for Parc Guell in another cab. I went in alone while they went to the tavern outside. Now I will confess that I didn't do justice to this beautiful Parc. I was hot, my foot was a bit sore by this point and I didn't think I should venture too far. But I did make it into Gaudi's house and up a couple of levels of the winding path, enamoured by the beauty of the place. I didn't go into the area where you need a ticket (other than buying a ticket for the house) but I did get to glimpse the beautiful architecture. But even without Gaudi's amazing work in here, the Parc is stunning. It's a veritable wonderland of green and colour, amazing paths winding their way up and up and up, while Gaudi stone walls mix with the gardens to provide a wilderness made from man and nature.

After a little while exploring, I headed back out and doing my friends. Another cab ride. This one to El Born. And yep WOW again. A hive of activity, more laneways, laced with beautiful boutiques and tapas bars. We stopped at Euskal Etxea. And I recommend you do too!! A late lunch for us consisted of three pieces of tapas each, some sangria for myself and another, and wine for our foodie of the group, who found this place too. I had a piece of tuna steak - the best I have ever tasted! It had a light vinegar dressing and was so chewy and meaty in all the good ways. I also went with a ham croquette and a bed of goats cheese, olive tapenade and cherry tomato on a small bit of bread. It was all so so good, I could have eaten three times the amount, even though I wasn't even hungry because the sun has sapped my appetite!

An hour or two later we headed home in another cab. My friend and I headed up the street to Placa Catalunya to try some shopping but quickly retreated. I shouldn't have tried when tired and grumpy!

We are off to Pla for dinner, which I think is near La Rambla. And again it looks amazing!

So some general observations: Barcelona is a melting pot overflowing with food, wine, cocktails, shopping, people and fun. The locals appear happy, they walk with purpose but are not at all rushed. The roads are a one way maze, in the central area bordering smaller lanes for bikes and buses, but traffic flows mostly well, drivers are patient and everything just seems to work. The laneways are amazing. In El Born today I felt like I was on a historical film set, watching ladies cycle past on old fashioned bikes, people gathering in front of fhe Santa Maria church, or inside the many beautiful tapas bars. The only sign of the present was the boutiques.

Last night, when we were over in another district, somewhere between Eixample and Sagrada, we found more laneways, these ones housing men who serenaded eager crowds. Another movie set experience. I love the placas outside apartment buildings in areas where the laneways widen momentarily to allow for them, before converging once more. Everything here is beautiful!

But did I mention it was hot! 35 degrees by the time we got home. And now, I need a shower! So I will sign off for now once more.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post. I hope I am not too rambling today and have not made too many iPhone typos. It's hard work doing this on a phone!

RT

PS I will put some weblinks in later, for those who want to try what we have so far!

I would appreciate those links.

Hi kelsey, I might add them all at once at the end of my Barca trip, which is Wednesday, unless I get a chance tomorrow. I'll try to add everywhere we have been, bearing in mind our experience is no way near comprehensive - but it's a taste and should recommend some beautiful eating spots for you.

RT

Barça is the football club FC Barcelona and not the city ... ;-)

Thanks kimhe ... I'm sure I've made many faux pas on the trip so far!

@RT - Just enjoy your trip :) I will follow...

OK so here is the rest of Barcelona coming up. I'm now on the train to San Sebastián so will fill you in on the journey so far, and add web links at the end.

Monday night's dinner took us to Pla, recommended by travel and food guides. Located in the Gothic Quarter, it is divinely fitted out, ambient lighting mixing with its brick, multi level but small and enclosed interior to provide an intimate setting. But tables were well spaced so it didn't feel too small at all. We ordered four entrees and one main between us - perhaps unusual but Pla encourages different options to suit. The food was sensational. For €40 each we tasted well-designed, beautifully presented, unique dishes, and our bill included a glass each of cava and a bottle of wine.

I wasn't feeling very well however, so opted to take a cab home after dinner while the other girls stayed on and went out after. I felt quite lightheaded and was definitely dehydrated and needed sleep. The girls wanted to explore some nightlife and found their way to the marina courtesy a meet up group they had found online. So off for some bad karaoke they went! They eventually stumbled in at 4.30am so presumably enjoyed their night!

The next morning, yesterday, was our last in this beautifully eclectic city and I wanted to get up and out before it got too hot or busy. I went for a quick run up the Avinguda Diagonal - a wide boulevard in Les Cortd, that
had plenty of space for running, and there were a few of us out among the early work crowd. It's obviously a business area and the r were already getting semi busy by just after 7am. Again, just 1km from our spot in

, the city changed rapidly from older buildings along older roads that are not the laneway width of the Gothic Quarter another km away in the other direction, but are not quite the CBD feel of the experience up in Les Corts.

I then decided to wander around Catalunya Placa and Passeig de Gracia for an hour or two as I decided what to do with my last day. We had planned a bike tour but I wasn't sure that was still on given the late night of my companions. I was thinking of maybe heading to a museum to avoid the heat, but then my friend called and was up and about ready for the bike ride, so I headed up to the Placa Catalunya to meet them. And I'm so glad we went on it. By the end I was tired, hot and hungry but it was worth it. I'd already seen most of the sites we covered, and others may prefer to start in a city with something like this, but it did also help consolidate the trip to the city. It gave me some background and context I hadn't had when I went to places on my own. We went to many sites, including the Parc Ciutadella, beach, Placa Reial (really cool Gaudi lights in here), Las Ramblas, Passeig de Gracia to see the Gaudi buildings and Sagrada Familia. Our guide was lovely and took her job seriously - as do most in Barcelona, I found.

By then I was done for the day! Hot and bothered we headed home to partake in the Spanish siesta for a few hours before dinner. For our last night we opted for a recommendation the girls had been given on their previous night out. Lolita is a tapas bar near the likes of the popular Tickets and Begoda, around Poble Sec. While Tickets books out well in advance, or so I hear, we walked into the quiet Lolita. The crowd did pick up however and the staff, the food, the atmosphere and the unpretentious decor were all terrific ingredients for another great dinner. Sitting up at the bar, we enjoyed salmon, squid, some vegetarian delights and not bad wine and beer all for €20 euro each. Off to a gin bar across the road we each sampled a different cocktail. It was still hot and the night showed no sign of cooling down. We decided to try one last place for one last cocktail on our last night. Again, a recommendation. The bar, Ocan, is in Placa Reial, which appears completely different at night to day. The Gaudi lights lit up the the Placa beautifully and I highly recommend others spend an evening in one of the bars or restaurant around the perimeter. Our waiter was gorgeous and certainly knew how to charm, playing it up for our delighted smiles.

At midnight we headed home, ready for some sleep before the alarm would go off just after 6am. We had a 7.30am train ticket to San Sebastián and a 6.45am cab booked to the Sants station. A hurried exit, the inevitable 'oh no I left such and such in the apartment', a dropped coffee on the floor of a station cafe, and some bleary heads made for an interesting start to our morning (we eventually found in our bags the things we thought had been left behind). Here I have to mention my experience in booking a ticket on the Renfe site. I discussed this in a post when preparing for my trip, but - as fodorites well know - booking from Australia on this website is seemingly impossible at times. I eventually worked out that the website for some reason doesn't like our national ISP Telstra, so I tried my phone, which is with the Optus carrier. It worked, but despite a front page that allows you to select English, the rest of the site is in complete Spanish. So I had to manually type into Google translate on my computer every word from the site, lest I ended up booking us to the wrong place! I was quite dubious about the standard of ticket it promised, given the price. We paid AU$65, for apparently first class 2x2, facing each other. I can't recall the name of the type of ticket but everything I read told me it was offered at a discount rate, when purchased in advance, and that we had to buy all four seats to get the 2x2 configuration. It still worked out cheaper than any other ticket even with the extra seat purchase. I handed over my credit card details dubiously. My cynicism was right - when we found our way to the coach our tickets told us to go to, there was no such configuration. We had the correct seats but they weren't facing each other. Oh well. Not to worry. The extremely officious conductors were helpful in pointing out where to go but not in assisting with luggage, and when there was no room for ours he didn't seem to care, only telling us in Spanish that we had to move them from where we had try to put them out of the way. So we repacked everyone else's luggage as he watched!

So far we are almost half way to our 1pm scheduled arrival in San Sebastián. The train is comfortable and clean and it's so far a pleasant journey.

So that's it for Barcelona! Almost.

I will now just sum up my feelings about the city. This is my first European trip so Barcelona was my first European city. When I first arrived on hot and sweaty Saturday morning, I was immediately struck by a familiarity from my senses - all at once Cambodia returned to me! Now this may sound ridiculous but I was struck by the same smells and heat that Cambodia hit me with when I first went there seven years ago. Certainly to a lesser degree but Barcelona's heat and age combined to offer me some unpleasant whiffs from their drains. In some places the stench of urine adds to the assault on the senses. This is not a criticism of the city and not a judgement either - it's a major city, it's old and it's high summer. All of its foibles are part of its charm and part of what makes it the eclectic, vibrant, beautiful and fun city that it is. I'm told I won't get in cities such as Rome the laid-back chilled vibe I got in Barcelona, as busy traffic knits itself around the one way streets, happily letting cyclists, skaters and pedestrians play alongside and in between. City workers stroll, they don't rush, locals link between tourists, seemingly not bothered by the perpetual camera posing holiday makers taking over their footpaths, parks and landmarks. Barcelona workers in shops take their jobs seriously and are often officious if not overly chatty, but they are not unfriendly either. Waiters and waitresses however are definitely friendly and go out of their way to offer excellent service - at least in our experience. Barcelona is a city to fall in love with. It's a city that offers a multitude of experiences and will let you find whatever one it is you're looking for.

Some web links to places we loved:

Flauta (tapas bar in Eixample - no website but here's the TripAdvisor link)
http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Restau...Catalonia.html

Pla:
http://www.restaurantpla.cat/barcelo...ant/index.html

Teresa Carles (vegetarian but the BEST!):
http://teresacarles.com


Lolita:
http://www.lolitaperia.com

Euskal Etxea (a divine little tapas in the beatiful El Born maze of laneways. It's right near the Picasso museum and we had an amazing lunch here and tried our first cava)
http://www.euskaletxeataberna.com

Cycling tour:
http://www.barcelonaciclotour.com/en/

If I remember any I may have forgotten I will add later.

I'd also recommend a trip to and around the Parc Ciutadella, Sagrada familia, Parc Guell and Montjuic. There's plenty to do up there and plenty more in Barcelona in general so this is merely a taste of what's possible and told through the eyes of merely one person.

Well this has taken me two hours on my iPhone so once again I apologise for any ramblings and typos!

RT

If you liked Euskal Etxea in the Basque Cultural Center in Barcelona, you will love San Sebastian. Decent pintxos in Euskal Etxea, but nothing compared to what you will find in almost any pintxos bar in San Sebastian. All about going for the famuos pintxos: http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en

Here are some of my favourite pintxos bars in San Sebastian Old town/Parte vieja (but it's not easy to do much wrong here in the culinary capital of Spain, if not all of Europe. Places that serve less than fabulous food would normally be out of business in weeks in food crazy San Sebastian). This route is some 200 meters and will kill you ;-):

Urola: http://allaboutfoodmag.com/de_pintxos-en-casa-urola/
http://www.yelp.com/biz/casa-urola-san-sebasti%C3%A1n
Goiz-Argi: http://www.todopintxos.com/bares/bar...7&do=vista_bar
http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/...e-8303538.html
Txepetxa, anchovies heaven and an institution in town: http://www.bartxepetxa.com/
Cutting edge Zeruko: http://www.barzeruko.com/
http://www.theguardian.com/travel/20...as-pintxo-bars
Emblematic La Cepa, here you can have the best cured ham in the world, Jamon de Jabugo: http://www.barlacepa.com/en/
La Cuchara de San Telmo: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...ue_Country.htm

And an alternative list of nine pintxos bars in the Parte vieja: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/phoebe...b_3843675.html

And many of the best and most local atmsophere pintxos bars are in the Gros district, just across the bridge over the city river Urumea (your train arrives on the Gros side of the Urumea).

I always have my first night dinner in Casa Urola. A place that locals take new visitors to show what the food culture here is all about. Same waitress last fall as when I first visited in 1987, and can't wait to go back in a couple of months. Chef Pablo Loureiro is considered one of the best grill chefs in all of the Basque Country, and Urola is now also well known for their grilled vegetables. One "Sol" in the Guia Repsol, the Spanish equivalent to the Michelin guide: http://www.casaurolajatetxea.es/es/portada/
http://tourism.euskadi.eus/en/restau...aa30-12375/en/
http://www.andyhayler.com/restaurant/casa-urola

This very fun video says all about the food culture in Donostia-San Sebastian: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwmBAvqa_0U

Have some fabulous days in my favourite city on the planet!

Thanks so much kimhe!

I have lunch for my birthday on Saturday booked at Akelarre. I am hoping however not to burn a hole in my wallet between now and that major (for me!) indulgence.

No need to burn a hole in your wallet in San Sebastian, each pintxo is only some 2-3 euros and you could have fabulous tasting menus in some of the best restaurants for some 30-40€ with wine included: http://www.restaurantelamuralla.com/es/
or 60€: http://www.bodegonalejandro.com/en/home

And you could have a traditional three course lunch with the locals for some 10-12€ with wine included in places like La Zurri: http://www.restaurantelazurri.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...e_Country.html

and El Rincon: http://www.restaurantebarelrincon.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...ue_Countr.html

And you can very much look forward to your birthday lunch in Akelarre. I posted this after a visit here in October 2013:

--

Had a memory for life lunch at three star Akelarre some weeks ago for about 100€ pp. We had the "Sea garden" appetizers, the traditional and local fish and shellfish soup "a la Donostiarra", Hake and its Kokotxa with Oyster and Oyster Leaf, Grilled Iberic “Secreto” with Pepper seeds and Garlic in three different versions (we had two half main dishes on their suggestion), chocolates and a couple of glasses of wine.

I will especially remember the Akelarre version of the fabulous San Sebastián fish and shellfish soup (which usually is excellent also in "normal" restaurants up here, highly recommended!), and the Hake and Kokotxa is perhaps the best thing I've ever eaten. This page gives you an idea: http://driftingepicure.com/2013/03/28/akelarre-review/

--

kimhe your tips are amazing. We did a bit of a pinxtos crawl last night with some shopping thrown in and it was terrific. This city is so beautiful! I will start a trip report soon.

looking forward to the trip report, but remember to take your time to enjoy the city/area ;-)

But can't help giving you a couple of more things to think about. Perhaps a lunch in close by and tiny Getaria? Plain fantastic fish and seafood in the restaurants down in the small harbour. The ritual goes something like this (and you don't have to go to Michelin star Elkano to get the Getaria experience): http://www.thepauperedchef.com/2007/...-in-getar.html

Also a few excellent seafront restaurants in even tinyer and picturesque Pasajes San Juan/Donibane, just a couple of miles east of San Sebastian in air. I've had lunch here many times. Bus from Plaza de Guipuzcoa or a relatively short taxi ride (you must go around the Pasajes bay, so it will be some ten minutes): http://www.euroresidentes.com/eurore...s/san-juan.htm

A couple of the seafront restaurants in Donibane:
Txulotxo: http://www.restaurantetxulotxo.com/
Casa Camara: http://www.casacamara.com/
http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Resta...a-222192-41102

Excellent 15 min video about seafood, the Basque coast, Pasajes and Getaria: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqdjeGqnVKc

... and it's also a very nice walk to Pasejes San Juan/Donibane along the coast from San Sebastian over Monte Ulia. A small boat take you over the 50 meters of water from San Pedro to San Juan/Donibane, goes back and forth all the time. This is the way we use to do it: An hour or so walk with the best views followed by a great lunch, and then taxi or bus back to town.

This might make you decide to set aside a few hours for Restaurante Txulotxo and San Juan/Donibane: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qx9eQSe7wJ0

Bookmarking for my upcoming trip to Barcelona as well!

Hope you have a great time!

Thanks kimhe! Not sure I'll get to all those places but I want to try to hike to Pasajes in the morning - early though before breakfast as it's going to be hot! I wanted to do a walking tour but today it's not until 5.30pm and I already booked a much-needed hair appointment for 4.30. I was going to call to change but they don't speak English.

Thanks so much for taking me along on your Barcelona adventure. It's a ciy that has long been on my "want to visit" list.

<I want to try to hike to Pasajes in the morning - early though before breakfast as it's going to be hot!>

Very nice walk, and perhaps stop for a morning coffee up in the Ulia park.

TPAYT I guess it is true that there are so many places to go, it's impossible to see them all. I am so glad I got to experience Barcelona! I have more cities to come on this trip but I fear I have already developed an addiction to Europe. Spain is my first country here and it is beautiful. The people are beautiful also.

What a wonderful trip report with so much good information. If I have half the experiences you did during my time in Barcelona I will be thrilled. Thank you so much for posting.

Thanks ahotpoet ... great name btw!

Yesterday I read another trip report, in which the OP didn't enjoy the city at all. I guess it reinforces that one person's gold is another person's junk. I did find it smelly and a bit dirty, but I decided to embrace that as part of being in an old city experiencing a really hot summer. I come from near Melbourne and there are pockets of Melbourne I wouldn't be proud to have tourists comment on, but that doesn't mean the city as a whole is not a great place. I embraced the culture and the attitudes of the locals - all wonderfully friendly and welcoming. I never once felt unsafe. It was my first European city and sure it's not Paris, its Arc de Triomf is not the same as going to the Champs Elysees, but nor should it be. It's its own city. Anyway, travel through Cambodia taught me a lot about embracing places and celebrating their uniqueness, good and bad - if dirty and smelly is considered bad that is, or just different to pristine places. FWIW I didn't enjoy the Champs Elysees as it felt too sanitised, so there you go! Each to their own though. :)