Dream vacation!

Ahhhh! A bit of nature...au natural.:) Excellent!

So.. as I am trying to graceful climb up the rocks to get out of the water, sucking in my stomach, ha, I must have stepped on a seaurchin because I got a spine in the bottom of my big toe! and DG also got a few spines in a more painful area than a big toe! Yikes.

On our way back to DBV, we stopped at one of my fav restos, Orsan, in Zaton, and DG ordered a really wonderful bottle of white wine. This place is the epitome of relaxation and calm beauty. The water is literally lapping just a few feet away. We ate here last year and I can say the food is top notch. Great way to end a perfect afternoon -- except for the seaurchin spines.

Back home to freshen up and then DJ and I went to watch the sunset at - you guessed it -- the Buza Bar, we have certainly put a dent in the wine stock, lol. It was spectacular.

We then met fellow Fodorite, Andrew for dinner at Rosarij. It was great to meet him, he's from my neck of the woods, sort of, he's in Oregon, me, Wash. His trip had been wonderful so far and it sounds like he's taken some really great photos. Maybe our paths will cross again some day -- DJ and I shared a scrumptious grilled fish and black risotto, and a lovely bottle of French champagne - compliments of the owner!

Hey, no stepping on SeaUrchins! We bite back! Sometimes.

So glad to hear about your trip, it is making me want to go there myself. I have to see those Buza Bar sunsets while sipping wine, sounds wonderful.

More, please.

Great report Barb, sounds like a holiday made in heaven.

Great to read you met up with Julia, I met Julia (I am sure it is the same one!!) in Paris this year. She is really lovely and I too would love to catch up again with her.

Keep going with the report and try and put some more details about DG into it!!!! (no not those details)

Schnauzer

Hi Barb! I have to admit that I have been curious about your Croatian guy and wondering if you two were still together. I think it's all so incredibly romantic and wonderful! I'm waiting for the part when you tell us that you decide to move to Dubrovnik.... ;)

Looking forward to the rest!
Tracy

Hi schnauzer, yes I am the Julia you met in Paris in May!

Next time you come halfway round the globe to Europe please let me know and I'll try to get to meet you somewhere! It would be good to see you again too.

Tracy, how's it all going? My twin boys are almost 17 years old now, can't believe just how fast it all seems to have gone - and I 'abandoned' them at home for 6 nights for this trip! Lots of trust involved, and they didn't let me down, (despite being quite obnoxious a lot of the time when I'm around!). They don't want to travel with me any more unless it's to go snowboarding, surfing or doing something really active - I'm free at last!

Don't get me started on details about DG, I'll never stop and you will be sorry you asked. He's younger than me by a few years, but it all evens out because I am young for my age. He's tall, dark and handsome and I am short and blond, so, we make quite the pair. We are both grandparents!! and we both have a grandson named Luka, well mine actually is Lucas, but I call him Luka and they are both 4. We also each have grandsons who are going to turn 2 in Jan/Feb. So even if there is snow on the roof, there is still a fire in the fireplace, or something like that?! In other words passion is not just for the youth. He speaks some English, I speak a little Croatian, but we are both so comfortable just being with each other, that it just works. He understands English better than he speaks it, so I just talk away and hope he is getting most of it, ha.

He lives about 30 min. south of Dubrovnik, so that is why I stay in town. He owns a business in DBV and works long, hard hours, leaving very early in the morning, so I do not want to be stuck there without a car and having to take the bus into town every day. It works out great as he is with me every night :)

I am an artist and have been lucky to make some connections there and particularly with a gallery owner who likes my work, so there is always the possibility of being able to market some of the paintings there. That is kind of my goal right now. Retirement is still a ways off, so until then, I will continue going over as often and for as long as I can. Not ideal, but I knew it was not going to be easy.

Well enough of that... to be continued as soon as my next client leaves.

Julia, so far so good. I had an ultrasound today and the babies are both doing really well. One of them was breach during my last ultrasound but has since switched positions so they are now both head-down, which is perfect! I'm 33 weeks today, and they are both right around 4.5 pounds each. My back has been killing me, but the doctor took pity on me and gave me a prescription for something stronger than Tylenol. Otherwise I don't know if I could handle much more!! Thank you for asking. Your boys sound like a lot of fun, and I think its great that they behaved themselves while you were away! Hopefully my girls will be equally as trustworthy.

Barb, what a story! It's like a movie!! Not only did you meet a wonderful guy, but in beautiful Dubrovnik of all places. Good luck with everything, and I am looking forward to the next installment!

Tracy

Boy, good luck with those little girls Tracy. I just can't imagine how uncomfortable you must be. Hang in there, it will be so worth it when you can hold those precious little babies in your arms. Then you can start planning your next trip :)!!

I will try to get in another installment tonight. Work is always crazy here on Fridays.

Barb,

Your reports are just great! I've read each one, but haven't commented because I'm writing one myself on our recent trip to Turkey:) You're right, they're hard work, but it's run to relive it through the reports, isn't it?

Yours is a true fairy tale! You sound so happy - and what a beautiful place to fall in love! We've been there only twice :( but when people ask me about Dubrovnik I simply say that it's heaven on earth. Our dream is to someday get a little place in Cavtat (it's fun to dream, right?).

You've got to be the Buza Bar's best marketing tool - they should be giving you a commission! Can't wait to visit it on our next trip.

Looking forward to your next installment.

Ellen

Yes, please keep going, Barb. Your lovely description of walking the Stradum brought back so many wonderful memories. I can't wait to read about your next adventures...don't know that I would have braved those sea creatures!

As an aside, Tracy, good luck with your babes. DH and I would never have had the courage to travel off-season to Croatia without the support of your earlier report, and of course, Sessa's too. (Although, I'm sure travel is not at the very top of your mind these days.) Many belated thanks to all of you!

--Annie

It is like a fairy tale come true, and I have to keep pinching myself to see if I am just dreaming.

I had my little Luka for the weekend and he kept me pretty busy, but I will try to get the next installment done tonight. BTW, I want a Buza Bar t-shirt!! that's the least they can do for all the free advertising they are getting, right??

It's the very least they can do!

So,,, a huge big sigh, because I just did a big post and I hit the wrong key, and, then, it was gone!! I need to remember to submit before it gets too long. So...

Fri. 10/9:

This is DJ's last day. I was feeling a little sad, but we have had such a good time, I did not dwell on the sadness, but was looking forward to seeing her again next year in DBV or ??

DJ and I had breakfast at Kavana Dubravka, which is just outside the Pile Gate, opposite Nautika. We sat outside on the lovely terrace set overlooking the little bay between the Bokar nd Lovrijenac fortresses. This is a great place to people watch and the food is pretty good, but the service is a tad indifferent and they are a little stingy with the coffee - small cups.

From there we set out to find DJ"s children some really cool things from Dubrovnik. We sent a few emails from Skybar -- my haven in the days to come!! and then discovered a really good little shop with inexpensive jewelry and DJ scored with some great things for her daughters. This shop is, I think, right next door to the Irish Bar. Then on to the Angel shop. This is a wonderful little shop with so many unique, sort of local, finds. Highly!! recommend it.

The Taj Mahal, was calling our names, so this was where we had lunch, between our shopping quests. What can I say, it is SO!! good. We share a cevapi and a dish of veal, smothered in a creamy sauce of kymak and mushrooms and roasted potatoes with lots of that very special bread, (pita with delusions of grandeur, lol).

DJ is meeting Nino our driver, at the Ploce Gate at 6:15, but she suggests a last time at Buza Bar, so after twisting my arm, ha, we managed to find an empty table. It does get pretty crowded around the end of the day with the anticipated sunset. We then decide to do the thread "Buza Bar Alert"

Lots of laughs and, I think not wanting the day to end, I walked with her to Ploce and Nino, waiting with his van with a couple of other people heading off to the airport. As I said, it was a little sad, but I know we will see each other next year.

The Taj Mahal, was calling our names, so this was where we had lunch, between our shopping quests. What can I say, it is SO!! good. We share a cevapi and a dish of veal, smothered in a creamy sauce of kymak and mushrooms and roasted potatoes with lots of that very special bread, (pita with delusions of grandeur, lol).

DJ is meeting Nino our driver, at the Ploce Gate at 6:15, but she suggests a last time at Buza Bar, so after twisting my arm, ha, we managed to find an empty table. It does get pretty crowded around the end of the day with the anticipated sunset. We then decide to do the thread "Buza Bar Alert"

Lots of laughs and, I think not wanting the day to end, I walked with her to Ploce and Nino, waiting with his van with a couple of other people heading off to the airport. As I said, it was a little sad, but I know we will see each other next year.

Then,,, walking down Stradun, after most of the cruisers have gone back to the "Mother Ship", I am reflecting on the good times that DJ and I had. I head home to get ready for dinner with my friends from Bristol.

Why is it my hair is so crazy here?? I bring most of my hair products from home in little 3 0z bottles. What is it, the water, the salt water sea breeze, or just my lack of caring, ha.!!Anyway, whatever, I try to look my best.

We met at Rosarij, which is their fav resto too. We shared a plate of whitebait, or, is it white bait? It is crispy and delicish. I remember the first time I had white bait, in Nice. I thought I was ordering a dish of small white fish, and was quite surprised to see these little slivers of delicate fish with eyes looking up from their plate. Do I eat them whole?? Yes, the waiter tells me after I try to cut their tiny heads off. So,...yes, quite tasty and I don't even notice I've just eaten the whole thing.

So...then we are served big steaming bowls of mussels, shrimp in a delicious, rich broth, with lots of crusty bread to sop it all up.

Just to let you know that the average meal here is 80 to 200 kuno, and you can order a 1/4, 1/2 or 1 ltr. carafe of good local wine.

We decide to meet up again on Sunday for their last dinner.

My DG meets us and we walk my friends to the Pile and their bus back to the President. We walk the deserted streets, holding hands, drinking in the splendor of Dubrovnik at peace.

Sat. 10/10:

Slept in and had a relaxing morning doing a few chores around the apt, washed a few things, which I can hang out my window! and then I decided to treat myself to breakfast out at my favorite cafe on the Stradun, Bistro Dubrava. I had a mushroom omelet, white coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice - 54kuna, a very good value I think. It is a little cloudy, but still humid. I enjoyed watching the people walking Stradun, paying particular attention to clothes and shoes. Lots of fashionable tennis shoes, skinny jeans, tunic tops with leggings and BIG purses, or little bitty purses. The local women, who are so gorgeous and TALL dress a little provocatively, with very tight skirts/jeans and tight, low cut tops and seem to be able to pull it off without looking trampy.

I took the #4 bus to Dubrvonik Palace Hotel in Lapad. It is huge, but rather sterile, no charm or soul. From there I walked down the hill to Uvala beach. It is a very popular beach judging by all the locals there. There is a large playground/park area for children a very big water slide from the beach into the water. The bay is lined with cafes and hotels. I stopped and had a glass of wine across the street from the Villa Wolf. Part of the reason for coming to this area was to find the Peska walk listed in many guide books as a great path up the hill, but it was very hot and I just could not muster up the energy to do it. Sitting next to me was the most attractive Italian couple, maybe in their late 40's. She is blonde and gorgeous, in white linen blouse and pants, impreccable make up, dripping in gold jewelry, manicured nails and looking very regal. He is dark, good looking with dark hair peppered with gray. Lacoste shirt. He touches her hand lightly, but they hardly talk to each other. I tried not to stare, but I just could not take my eyes off this couple. I'm feeling short and frumpy and wishing I had done my nails. But... when they get up to leave, he is about 5'4" and she is about 5'10" and quite plump!! Ha, nothing wrong with that, but just not quite what I expected.

I hopped back on the #4 and headed back Dubrovnik. I decide to just take it easy for the afternoon and head for the resto Poklisar on the water at the old harbor.

woops - impeccable, should have previewed the last post.

Love sitting at Poklisar, there's so much going on at the Harbor. For lunch I had grilled calamari and grilled vegetables, bread and a glass of white wine. I love that I can sit here, nursing my vino and write in my journal, or just read my book. The sun is glorious. I can feel my whole being start to slow down, relax. I really have no plans! When I travel, I am usually rushing about, trying to fit in all the things I want to see and do and here, I just need to allow myself to be in the moment, which is something that I need to work at.

Dinner is grilled fish, lovely fresh salad, crusty bread and good white wine. DG is tired, so we have an early evening.

I woke up in the middle of the night to huge booms -- thunder and lightning that lit up my room. I've been through some bad thunder storms, but this one is a doozy!! and for just a moment I could just imagine how it must have been, living here during the war, with bombs dropping all around and being so frightened. It was impossible to fall back to sleep, so I just huddled under the covers trying to think about pleasant things.

The weather had taken a turn for the worse, so for the next week, it was off and on, rainy, windy, and cold. I went to Bistro Dubrava to read and drink tea, or revisit some of the churches. I paid my usual visit to the Defenders of Dubrovnik Memorial room and to the War Photo Museum. I am not a shopper, but I did a little shopping. Skybar became a haven, emailing, Fodors, or just googling. I started a couple of small paintings, but I guess my heart was just not into it because they were just not coming together.

We met my Bristol friends at Rosarij for their last dinner before going home. We had a real treat - a huge grilled momkfish that we all shared. OMG, it was amazing. I know it is endangered and I should not be eating it, but I've just eaten it once before and probably won't again as we can't get it here at home. It was a real treat.

After the rain and wind finally stopped, I was able to go to Cavtat for an afternoon, which is always fun. DG took me back to Trebinje one afternoon. We went last year - the first time he had been there since the war - 18yrs. ago! and it was a very emotional trip for him. Trebinje is 90% Serbian and until fairly recently not somewhere most Croats wanted to go. I can't say it's a very attractive town, although the streets are fairly wide and tree lined, but beyond that are sort of gray, drab buildings and poverty. There are lots of cafes with large terraces, chairs and umbrellas. The day we were there was cold, and so not much of a cafe scene. I did enjoy a farmer's market, where I noticed lots of rather unusual sorts of vegs and fruits and tobacco sold in big burlap bags. I drooled over a large table full of every kind of mushroom imaginable. It is only an hour's drive from DBV, but what a contrast in beauty and culture. I think if you have a car it is worth the trip, but without a car, I think the bus service is not so great, so it would be a challenge to get there.

On the way home, DG drove up to Mt. Srd. The view is just stunning, no matter how many times I see it, it never fails to take my breath away. After he dropped me off, I walked to the jetty, or breakwater, and sat on a bench and just watched two fisherman emptying their nets with the days catch. The sun was finally shining again and it felt heavenly. I probably sat there for an hour just soaking it all up and savoring every moment. I decide to make hay while the sun shines, so I went to Buza Bar to watch the sunset. The sun and a ship on the horizon were racing - the ship just passed the sun as it sank into the Adriatic.

By now, as much as I love calamari, I had reached my limit. I had them fried, grilled, stuffed, sauteed and in risotto, but I had to stop. As I passed the Gaffe Bar (Iris bar) one day and got a whiff of grilled onions I had to fight the urge to go in and order a big hamburger with all the trimmings.

I was just on seafood overload by the end of my second week. So, it was back to Taj Mahal for cevapi and veal and to Kanoba Adria for a very a tasty schnizel type dish.

I have been lucky enough to be able to celebrate DG's last three birthdays with him. This year, I bought him a big gorgeous chocolate cake at Niko bakery, which we shared with some of his friends for a really nice little birthday party. I gave him a CD which he really liked that I had played for him a few times - Katie Melua. Now every time I talk to him on the phone, he is playing that in the background - ahhhh.

As the end of my trip was nearing I could feel myself starting to feel emotional and dreading the inevitable. The weather was improving, so I was able to get out more and did not feel like I was wasting my precious time indoors. I walked the walls, strolled the streets, went to Lokrum for a few hours and I kept reminding myself that main reason I am there is because of DG, so I just need to be there for him and make every moment we are together special, so that's what I did. I won't share those details with you, lol, but it helped me not to feel so sad about leaving.

The day before I left, DG took me to lunch at a really special family-owned and run resto in Konavle called Konoba Vinica Monkovic. What a lovely, cozy place. We shared a huge plate of grilled meats ..beef, lamb and pork, with grilled vegetables and lots of bread for cleaning up the juices. The resto is situated beside a picturesque churning river. The last few days had turned cold and rainy again, so this place was a pleasant, warm respite from the nasty weather. The Konovale vallely is very green and fertile and probably where most of the local produce is grown and the nearby town of Gruda is charming and worth a visit I think.

As much as I had tried to prepare myself for the last day, it was still so hard. We had decided to say our goodbyes in Dubrovnik and not at the airport. And so, chocking back tears, Nino drove me to the airport and even walked me right up to the checkin desk!!

I was flying Easyjet back to Gatwick. I stayed in Horley, which is just about a 5-8 min drive from the airport. I stayed at the Vulcan Lodge, which I highly recommend. http://vulcan-lodge.com/ Karen Moon is a wonderful hostess and it's just like staying in a good friend's lovely, big house. I was the only guest at the time. Unfortunately, even with all my good planning, I had forgotten to write down the address, but the taxi driver finally found it. I arrived late, around 11:30, so she had sent me the front door code and I let myself in. In the morning, as I sat in the little dining room with a warm fireplace crackling, reading my paper, with her dog and fat cat sitting by my feet, she made me a breakfast, of eggs and toast with homemade jam. When the taxi driver arrived, she helped carry my bags to the car and instructed the driver on how to drop me close to the National Express stop at the airport and show me where to go, which he did.

This was an easy trip back to Heathrow to catch my BA flight to Seattle. From where the bus lets you off, you go up an elevator, if you have luggage, or an escalator, to the 3rd floor to the "drop bag" places. You can only drop your bags three hours before your flight! then you go through a HUGE security area, luckily it did not take long. Then you look at big departure boards for your gate, which don't open until 1 hr. before the flight!! and some gates can take up to 20 min. to get there. I am praying mine will be closer. I had lunch at Huxley's Bar & Kitchen, which was just ok.

Because you can't get seat assignments on BA until 24 hours before flight, and because I was not able to get online in DBV to do that, I had emailed that morning from the Vulcan and unfortunately got a middle seat. I'm worried that it would be my luck to be stuck between two fat smelly men. But I also had hopes of being able to change my seats when I got the gate. But... because it was a full fight, I was stuck, but with a small Asian man in the window seat, who did not utter a word and a sweet older lady on the aisle who was from Tacoma. After a few hours, we were like old friends, which made me feel so much better about maybe falling asleep on her shoulder, drooling, lol. All in all a good flight.

It was a wonderful trip. I am busy planning a possible trip back in the spring and another trip in the fall with my granddaughter, first to Paris for 5-6 days and then Dubrovnik for maybe 7-8 days and then a few days in Amsterdam before heading home.

I am trying to get a Skype schedule set up so at least I can see DG's beautiful face every week.

Thanks for hanging in there with me on this not so typical trip report!

What a great week you had after I'd left, despite the weather.

I'd caught up on some of it with you, but it's nice to see more detail. Maybe we can go out to Konavle when we meet next October, hopefully with your grandaughter and my DD... I wonder if they'll get on with each other as well as you and I do!

Julia, it was a great week and it was nice to be able to relive it through this report.

Absolutely let's go to Konavle. I am looking forward to next October and it will be great if our girls hit it off.

Parking Ticket Update...

After I submitted my initial 'representation' when I returned from Dubrovnik I was told I'd still have to pay as I had not shown evidence I was doing what I said, ie taking luggage into the hotel and finding out where the unmarked private car park was.

So I appealed once more, this time with copies of the invoices for the hotel booking, receipt for the hotel car park, and a covering letter telling them all about my friend from America and her HUGE suitcase that was so big and heavy it two of us to heave into the hotel in the pouring rain... also mentioned in passing it was so heavy she had to pay excess baggage charges on it before the easyjet flight!

I was still expecting to have to pay up, but I just wanted to have a say in my defence, and it's paid off!

They have formally accepted my representations, exercised discretion and have CANCELLED THE PENALTY CHARGE / FINE. Whooppeee!!!

However I have received a bit of a ticking off about parking where I did, and leaving the car unattended.

So point taken, I will take more care in future, and am very thankful.

Wow -- that's wonderful news! But did you have to rub it in about my BIG suitcase?? lol. Hey, whatever it took, that's all that matters. I guess we both learned a lesson.

Wonderful trip report Barb! I haven't been on Fodors in ages (so sad!) and popped in to read this. What a great trip. We need a Buza Bar!

Just finished reading the end of your fabulous report Barb. REally enjoyed everything you had to say. No wasted time at all, we were all here listening to everyword.

I hope your next trip is as good as this one.

Schnauzer