Bamberg and Environs - 9 nights

Old Jun 11th, 2012, 09:56 AM
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Bamberg and Environs - 9 nights

Just back one week ago from a lovely trip to this area of Germany!
Thanks to all the Fodors input, we got to visit the less-commonly seen sights of the Vierzehnheiligen Basika above Bad Staffelstein, the Alte Anatomie Museum in Ingolstadt, the Albrecht Duerer house and the medieval dungeon-cells in Nuernberg. We became aware of, and visited, a Pentecost Fair (Pfingstdult) in Amberg (what fun!) and I finally tried (and liked) my first Rauchbier.

We had the best weather (70s and sunny) and our chosen FeWo in Bamberg was a two floor townhouse with loads of space and a very good price.
For our final two nights, we moved to Hotel Cristall in Frankfurt to explore that city as well. Highly recommended for price (45E per night), proximity to Bahnhof and quiet/clean rooms. We "learned our way" around Frankfurt in about 30 hours, seeing the Roemer/Dom/Staedelmueum/Judengasse Museum and more.
Details, and hopefully in time, photos, will follow!
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Old Jun 11th, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Looking forward to the details. We have visited Bamberg and liked it. We have thought about spending more time in the area in the future.

Regards, Gary
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Old Jun 11th, 2012, 10:56 AM
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I'd love to hear more about Bamberg and see photos. I've stayed at the National Hotel in Frankfurt - just on the other side of the train station. I'm making a note of the Cristall Hotel for the future since it's less expensive than the National. Did you have wifi in the room and was breakfast included?
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Old Jun 11th, 2012, 06:44 PM
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"I'd love to hear more about Bamberg and see photos"

Same here. I would like details about your hotel. What is FeWo ? How much did you pay ?
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Old Jun 12th, 2012, 07:54 AM
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Okay, I don't have my trip materials here at work, and I am a very-tech-unsavvy person, so photos may come sometime before the 4th of July (If I'm REALLY lucky!)...but here goes...

Left JFK on Singapore's double decker 380 Airbus, HOURS late for Frankfurt. Singapore's personnel and service were very nice-traditional-style asian outfits, hot cloths in economy (!), real silverware on meal trays, decent food choices, individual movie screens with a vast variety of movie choices, BUT since the 380 is SO large, it is perpetually late, both arriving and departing, as it is limited to certain runways. We taxi'd for HOURS before leaving!
Late morning arrival in Frankfurt, so we knew that we'd missed the train connection previously arranged with our landlady in Bamberg. I called her to inform of our later arrival in town for the key handover.

A FeWo is Ferienwohnung or self-catered vacation apartment. I have travelled this way for at least 16 years now. The majority of europeans also stay in FeWos for more room at a lower price, usually in a residential neighborhood, where one truly experiences living as a local. We grocery-shopped, recycled, visited our "local" bakery, spent evenings at our local beer gardens, etc.
I had investigated FeWo choices on the internet, after we chose Bamberg as our home base, and communicated with the host by email. Most town sites list the various Ferienwohnungen in the area with photos and contact information. We paid 65 Euro per night ("Pay 6 nights and the seventh is free" at our chosen site! Or 390 Euro for 7 nights, NO Endreinigung-final cleaning fee--which can be a killer). For this sum of approximately $520 split between two persons, we had a two floor townhouse with a large upper level bedroom, a second smaller bedroom on the ground floor, a spacious kitchen with microwave, dishwasher, coffee pot, fridge and usual cookware/cutlery, a very large living room with two leather sofas, a reading nook, ceramic stove and dining corner, in addition to a large bathroom with shower stall, separate soaking tub and clothes washer. Oh, and a private outdoor garden/terrace too.

Re: Hotel Cristall, there was a free logon for WIFI. Breakfast was not included, but could be purchased for 5 E, however, it didn't have the highest reviews on TripAdvisor, so we opted to go into the underground complex (under the Bahnhof) just a block away and purchase breakfast pastries and hot drinks at any of the multitudes of shops available.
More later...
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Old Jun 13th, 2012, 10:07 AM
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Upon arrival to Bamberg, I had googled walking directions to our apt, and it was easily found. Weather sunny and mid-to-upper 70s. Passed the Spezial and Faessla Breweries on our 15 minute walk (future targets).Landlady's son met us for key handover and quick apt summary and payment. After briefly washing up, we headed out to the nearby grocery store (I had emailed the TI for this info in advance)for provision pickup. No fresh rolls at this time of the day (6pm), so a few slices of Bauernbrot would have to do. Yogurt, fresh pineapple, cheese and milk selected for my next few morning meals.
Well, what do you know? There is a Weinfest going on in the square just around the corner from us (Maxplatz) from 24-28 May!!! Yay!
After stowing our grocery purchases we headed back out to scope out the food stalls in this large square filled with wooden picnic tables and benches plus a main stage for nightly music.
I had a Pfannkuchen mit Spargeln und Schinken for 4,50E + a Bacchus Wein (6E included 2E glass deposit).
A flat bread type of 'pizza' with white sauce, fresh asparagus and ham + a semi-sweet wine. The band played retro '70s and '80s American hits!
A second glass of wine followed (Spaetburgunder)for 7E with a 2 E refund when the glass was returned. Then a currywuerst mit Broetchen (though the roll was saved for breakfast the next day).
Walked about town, (?)orienting and sight-seeing for another 90 minutes or so and got mightily lost (hey, no real map yet as the TI was already closed, 30 hours travel with a 45 minute nap AND two wines can cause a mind to fuzzy up a bit!)
Finally worked our way 'home' and flopped into bed, hardly unpacked, opened all the windows for a cool breeze.
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Old Jun 13th, 2012, 11:08 AM
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Fewos are the only way to go!

did yours have WIFI?

5 of the last 7 international trips I have taken had the outgoing flight being 4 to 26 hours late. Makes it hard to plan a train ride after you arrive.
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Old Jun 14th, 2012, 02:46 AM
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Leider, no WiFi in our apartment (sigh of consternation).
VERY difficult to get any free WiFi until Frankfurt.
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Old Jun 16th, 2012, 07:53 AM
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We had saved the next day, Saturday, to truly explore our home town. After a satisfying breakfast at 'home', we consciously re-visited areas that we had muddled through last evening. Nice views from the MANY bridges, higher, lower, chain, etc. I live in a town with three rivers and many bridges, so this felt like a 'sister' city in Europe!
The painted Rathaus built on a man-made stake in the middle of the river was a true tourist draw (germans, we never heard english spoken). Petite Venice, the Old Crane, The old slaughterhouse (first clue: stone cow on edifice!), modern sculpture in hidden squares, then on to the Tourist Info for a 'proper' map. We opted against the BambergCard with its audiotour and museum passes as we just wanted to meander with no list of "must-sees," though we DID purchase the BierSchmeckerTour. For 20 Euro, one receives a rathe nice backpack (thought shoulder straps are not padded), a stone beer mug, several beer coasters from participating neighborhood brewereies, a map/description of said breweries, AND 5 vouchers for 1/2 liters of beers!!!
Next, we slowly picked our way UP to the 1000 year-old Dom, now with a very helpful map in hand.
Sunny and very warm, TG for the refreshing breeze.
A Domkonzert had closed the Dom until about 12:45, so a big crowd waited to get in. Finally, we surged forward...the crypts of holy imperial couple-Heinrich II and Kunigunde were neat. Soaring arches, the Bamberg Reiter (horseman) and carved wooden grotesques made for cool pictures. We opted not to do the Diocesan Museum at this time. Feet hurting, so we searched for a lunch spot 'up above' town.
How about the Neue Residenz with its Rosengarten?
A fine choice on the large outdoor terrace. A pair of Wurst with Brot and a tepid iced tea, then a Radler (half beer, half sprite) 12.30 E hit the spot!
Relaxed, regrouped and remedicated, we took in the views over the red-tiles city houses. We did not view the works of art within, but instead, went to the nearby Alte Hofhaltung, a medieval courtyard with half-timbered houses. We opted to visit the History Museum at 3 PM (closing 5 PM)-5 E entrance fee. Nice varied collection on the history/development of Bamberg, paintings, medieval coins, religious items, and a display of modern, digitally-altered mystical-type photos.
I especiallly enjoyed a selection of old photos detailing the wine-growers and garden/vegetable growers history. We left just at closing. Needed to relax again.
Well, whaddayaknow? Schlenkerla Brewery is nearby-home of the most famous of the Rauchbiere (smoked beers)! The cosy beer garten outside fit the bill. Started with a Rauchbier (2.50, but voucher from the beertour covered it), then on to a Rauchweizen (smoked wheat beer at 2.70- voucher valid)....
Add a Brotzeitteller -plate of cold-cuts and bread at 7.70 Euro, and I'm nearly in heaven! Dark wood and pink geranium window boxes are picturesque.
After leaving Schlenkerla, we went back to Maxplatz with its wine festival, found an empty table and chilled while we wrote in out journals. Thats when the Crepe stand called.
I had Nutella with almonds and crunchy sweetened walnuts for 2.50E whike listening to the band, now playing Beatles Hits!
Oh, I forgot, when we started out this morning, we ran into a huge weekly farmers market--Great! Such a beautiful variety of colors and so prettily arranged! Of couse, Spargel (aspargus), especially white, is the current star! A good day!
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Old Jun 16th, 2012, 08:01 AM
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sooooo jealous.

all this and white asparagus too.

I've not made it to this area of Germany yet but it's climbing up the list of "musts" fast.

keep the TR coming, mokka!
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Old Jun 16th, 2012, 08:38 AM
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Hey, Mokka, thanks for answering. Could you give a link of the FeWo you rented ? Or at least the website from where you did find it.

I would also like to know if you did rent a car or used public transport. If took any trains, how difficult was moving from Bamberg to other cities. I'm still wondering where we choose as a base in Franconia.

Great TR !
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Old Jun 16th, 2012, 09:04 AM
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This is great, keep it coming. We're headed to Bamberg this fall.
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Old Jun 18th, 2012, 02:42 AM
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lua:
You can start your accomodation search here:

http://www.bamberg.info/en/poi/touri...ormation-5019/
We stayed in Fewo Alte Stadtmauer

More to come...
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Old Jun 18th, 2012, 02:53 AM
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http://www.ferienwohnung-alte-stadtmauer.de/

Go under Wohnungen and click on the red dots to see pics of the rooms!
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Old Jun 18th, 2012, 04:18 AM
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Continuing... we did not rent a car at any point, instead used trains and a rare bus.
Sunday, May 27- destination Amberg. 19.40 E Roundtrip train ticket per person OR the Bayern Ticket for 29 E/2 persons (used the ticket machine as office not yet open this Sunday).
MANY young people in traditional dirndls and lederhosen, this being a holiday weekend (Pentecost) with a lot of festivals going on. Thirty minutes transition time in Nuernberg-we bought rolls for Monday breakfast.
Arrived Amber 11:42...sleeeepy town Amberg!
Found our way to Marktplatz with the picturesque gothic coral and white Rathaus and St. Martin's Church. Nice square with "jester at a famous wedding" fountain.
Asked what turned out to be an american dad visiting his daughter where the famous "Stadtbrille was ("I'm sorry, I don't speak german!!!") This is a building with two arches over the water. When the sun shines, the reflection looks like a pair of spectacles...thus, the name. Many phots from all angles along the water.We also saw some interrupted parts of the original double-walled city protection ring with gate(s). As we wandered about, more people appeared. Beautiful gray and white house with oriel window.
Next target was the Pentecost Fair on the edge of town. Walked a bit through a park-like setting to find it- Am Schanzl- (google-mapped walking directions from home)
How exciting--like a county fair with ferris wheel, rides, food stands, games and a Festzelt (large tent) where the food and beer was! We each had a Mass (liter) of Hefeweisse (7.50E)--Youza! I was thinking 'healthy' to balance out the massive beer (at a county fair?), so I ordered a salad with seasoned turkey strips--one of the most expensive food items on the menu at 8.90 E!!! What fun to people watch! Shopped the stalls a bitand bought nice ankle socks (the ones I brought from home were too thick). Oh, and a delicious chocolate banana! What a nice afternoon .
We watched dogs frolic in a man-made pond at the edge of an athletic field, while returning to the train station.
Back in Bamberg, we refreshed and went out for a light dinner.
This we found at an outdoor cafe on Obere Bruecke, on the far side of the Rathaus. Still feeling a bit health-conscious, I got a Salat Nizza (tuna) with Mineralwasser (11Euro).
Everyone wasout strolling and enjoying an evening Eis (ice cream). I was briefly tempted to try a place advertising Spargeleis (asparagus -flavored), but didn't after all!
But I did get a Kaesesahnekuchen (cheese flavored cake)at 2.20E to go, and enjoyed it 'back at the house' with hot chocolate!
Sorted out out travel info for Wuerzburg tomorrow...
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Old Jun 18th, 2012, 04:42 AM
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We want photos, mokka!!! Get some technology going please!
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Old Jun 18th, 2012, 05:00 AM
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Thanks for a great beginning! Please continue! And pictures please, please, please!
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Old Jun 18th, 2012, 09:54 AM
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MY picture-maker person is on vacation until next week...sigh.
But please don't give upon me yet!
Monday, May 28-Pentecost Holiday here:
Some noisy revelers walking home late last night past the apartment (again!)Had a crusty roll, buttered and jammmed, then repeated with a slice of dense farmers bread for breakfast. And chocolate milk made with Sarotti mix
Bought the Bayernticket again, (29E for 2) as it was a better bargain, to Wuerzburg.
Had a suboptimal map to work from again, but we managed to find Juliusspital and the river Main. We approached along the river promenade, passing the Alter Kranen, with nice views to the Alte Mainbruecke (old bridge erected 1473-1543) over the Main)and the Festung (fortress up above). A lot of people basking in the sunshine. The bridge is lines with statues of historically significant persons, primarily religious/popes.
We debated the half hour walk up to the fortess and agreed on lunch at Rathausplatz first.
I had a glass of local halbtrocken (semi-sweet) wine (3,70E) and a skillet of Gemueseroesti (flat potato shreds with vegetables and cheese on top) 11,80E.
I had some materials from home which noted a 3PM tour of the fortress IN ENGLISH on HOLIDAYS---YES! So we slowly crept our way up to the Marienburg Fortess, great views over the city and river unfolding.
After about 20-25 minutes, we closed in on the turrets, towers and entrance. Ticket for the tour in english 3,50E. The tour with commentary was nice, we got to see a few more interiors that otherwise would have been off-limits, including a well-house and chapel interior (3 decorated skulls below the altar-?)There was a group of U of Texas study abroad students on our small tour (newly arrived, they didn't feel ready for the german tour!)
Back into town, getting a bit tired. Walked to the Domplatz--Can you believe it? Dom St.Kilian is closed for renovation until Advent 2012!~
Wended our way over to the Weindorf (Wine village festival)on Obere and Untere Markt to check out the stands. Ultimately, L had a large pretzel sandwich with cheese/lettuce/tomato and I had Kartoffelpuffer over Salat (Potato pancakes) for 7E. And of course, a Bacchus halbtrocken wine! I chose to keep the small decorated glass mug and forego my 2E deposit! We sat with a group of older folk at a communal bench with space. After, saw the? Marienkaeppele with Riemenschneiders sandstone sculptures of Adam and Eve.
Then back to the train station to catch the 18:36 home, arriving 19:30.
I was eager to call home, as WiFi had been a big disappointment thus far-none found free anywhere! Sighted a phone 'booth' in the station which accepted credit cards (expensive, yes I know!) Spoke with mom for about 4 minutes and 3,70 Euro! We HAVE been able to text various family members back home for about 50 cents, so we weren't TOTALLY off the grid, but it was disappointing how very few occasions that free WiFi was to be had....
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Old Jun 18th, 2012, 10:50 AM
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You should check libraries for free wifi or internet access.
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Old Jun 19th, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Tuesday, 29 May: Nuernberg
Befor we caught the train, I ran up to our local bakery (Fuchs an der Hauptwachecke) and got a few fantabulous yeasty raisin rolls for breakfast (4 for 1.60E). On the way to the station, I mailed a few postcards at the Post (.75E per stamp, not as bad as Switzerland).
We caught the 10:33 with arrival in Nuernberg at 11:18, and easily located the large and airy TI just up the escalator from the Bahnhof. Puchased the same Laendeticket for 29 Euro/2. Saw an ALDI's grocery store on the main drag!
Walked down Koenigstrasse past Lorenzkirche to Museumsbruecke-many photos! River Pegnitz was not wide. Continued through the Hauptmarkt where the daily market stalls were in full swing! Purchased sweet cherries and sat to munch some at the Schoenner Brunnen (beautiful fountain- base encircled by protective grating).Located the Rathaus, but the next tour of the dungeons wasn't for a while, so we went onward to Albrecht Duerer's house. Beautiful area with covered city wall to walk for a bit. For 5 Euro we had a nenglish audioguide (self-guided) tour of the very modern (for his time) 3-level house with workshop, kitchen printing press and great views to a courtyard. On the top level were paintings from a school in Ukraine, where the art students re-interpreted many of Duerer's art masterpieces...some were QUITE GOOD and these children ranged in age from 9-17!!
Naturally, we visited the small Duerer shop, across the street where a few of my favorite paintings were purchased on economical postcards ;-).
We decided to 'do' lunch at St. Sebald church square, naturally outside, as the weather remained perfect. I got Stadtwurst, Schwarzbrot and Kartoffelsalat with a large Mineralwasser, which was, for the first and only time during this trip, served with ICE (10.45E)!! Refreshing!!!
Walked over to the Rathaus where a few others had gathered for a 3 PM tour of the Lochgefaengnisse (dungeons).
Tour in german, but a little written pamphlet adds to it in english (3,50 E entrance). Tour was really interesting, with several original holding cells for those prisoners awaiting trial OR in custody for pending execution. Room of implements and blacksmiths tools....Guards quarters, etc
After this, we worked our way back to the Bahnhof, stopping briefly at the re-created (and IMO tourity) Handwerkerhof complex to window shop a bit. Dark clouds moved in and the lightest of sprinkles. Home by 17:25.
Back in Bamberg, we explored the large grocery store across from the RR, Tegut. We stocked up on supplies and food-based gifts, and checked out the PET plastic bottle recycling machine--bottles in, money out (refund of deposit). Quick anxiety as L. could not find her wallet, but turns out it was left at the packing area and the clerk had it safely behind the counter-crisi averted!
Unloade our groceries at 'home', then went back out for a drink-hey we still had those beer vouchers to use!
Tonight, we tried Spezial Brewery. Sat outside in their cosy Biergarten and had a Rauchbier-lighter than Schlenkerla's.
Then,
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