As of now, we're pretty set on the 5-leg itinerary.

I did make one change. Rather than turn the car in at Pisa, we discovered we can drive all the way to La Spezia and turn the car in there. Then all we have to do is catch the local train to Cinque Terre. And, on the day we leave CT, there is a 9am train direct to Florence. Perfect! Minimal schlepping of luggage!

Now to start researching places to stay in CT. Question: I get the impression Monterossa is flat, but has lots of accommodations. Does it have good views of the cliffs and other towns??

I've really enjoyed this thread since I hope to make a similar trip next year - afterall, I've been back a whole week from the CT and it's time to start planning!

I stayed 3 nights in Riomaggiore and loved every minute. It is definitely much steeper than Monterosso, but none of the towns are flat. All the towns were wonderful in their own unique way. I agree with the others who thought Vernazza was more touristy. Monterosso has a nice beach and just a great atmosphere, fabulous view of the sea. I did the hike in 6 hours, but that was via the Groppo route (much higher elevation)wearing Teva sandals, which were just fine. I took the boat back to Rio allowing me to see the towns/countryside from another fabulous vantagepoint. I'm so glad you decided to include the CT in your itin - you won't regret it.

I was in Monterosso al mare mid-September for 1 week and also in Riomaggiore where my family friends live. If you are hiking way above the hills, then of course you can see down into the approaching town. However, from the towns themselves, you can't see the next town (unless you are viewing the coastline from a boat). The towns are set into the coastline (protection from pirates of long ago). Monterosso al mare and Riomaggiore are my favorites of the 5 towns. You will have more variety to choose from in Monterosso. Did you look at the cinqueterre.it website I gave in a previous post? That gives you lodging options in each town and comes with a photo of each property so you can see it. Riomaggiore tends to get more student backpackers and the crowds are a bit young, whereas Monterosso al mare had a nice mix of Italian couples, families, and tourists. In May you will still beat most of the tourists so the area should be relatively tranquil and nice.

We just got back 2 weeks ago. We stayed in Levanto, at the Garden Hotel, and would highly recommend it. It was very easy to take the train between towns. We had considered taking the boat back after hiking 1 way, but found that it cost more than we expected - it is by hop, not the entire trip. I don't remember the specifics, but we had already paid for the train, since it's included in the CT pass.
We spent 2 nights and 1 full day. Although I would have liked another day, that was fine for our first visit.

Thanks to everyone for the helpful posts.

Baglady:
I had a separate thread asking about
the Hotel Garden in Levanto. I'm glad
to hear you recommend it. Was it easy
to get to? A lot of the CT accommodations
seem to require hiking up steep inclines.

Hi JeanneB: Walking up and down hills in the 5 CT towns is the norm as they are all built into the hillsides (with the exception of relatively-flat Monterosso). It is unavoidable no matter where you go that there will be stairs, incline, steep banks, etc. so if you go prepared, you won't be too overwhelmed. It can get tiring though, believe me, but it does make for a good work-out whether you wanted one or not! :)

I guess by now you know it was turnercindy who stayed at the Hotel Garden. I stayed at Ca Dei in Riomaggiore -- and yes, to get to it was like hiking up a 90 degree angle!

Hi Huitres,
My family of 4 needs a place to stay in Riomaggiore for 4 nights in June 2005. What are your recommendations? We're looking for something that won't break the budget. Thanks!
Judi

Hi judig: I recommend contacting 'Hotel Villa Argentina' in Riomaggiore 011.39.0187.920.213 (fax # as well) also look online http://www.emmeti.it/Welcome/Liguria.../index.uk.html Doubles in the hotel are 94-130 euros. They also rent out rooms and apts throughout town so you could get an apt for your family at a very reasonable rate (~150-200 euros/night) for a full apt with kitchen, etc.

There is a small shuttle bus at the base of the town on the main street (Via Ave de Gasperi) that you can arrange ahead of time to pick you all up and take you up the hill to the hotel. You could let them know when you are at the train station, it is only a 5 min walk through the tunnel to the main street (Ave de Gasperi) and the bus will be on your R.

There is a good-sized hill going from the train station to the town, but fairly gradual, so we didn't think it was too bad. The Garden Hotel was easy to find, with a park opposite it (unfortunately under construction while we were there, so not too attractive) and the sea on the other side of the park.

yes, you need hiking or tennis shoes or sturdy teva type sandals. It's beautiful. I'd stay in one of the towns, I like Vernazza best. We stayed 2 nights in Riomaggiore which worked well also. Edy's rooms was the place we rented a room from (do reserve ahead of time any place you stay there). Now that I've stayed and hiked there once, next time I would stay nearby Santa margherita or Camogli mabye, and train in for the day. Do not bring luggage with you, keep it in the hotel. We went in July and it was just way too packed in the towns, but the trails were amazing.