Back from Sicily Palermo cont.
 

As to the restaurant scene I am happy to report that we had many excellent meals and I can pass on some great recommendations. A friend sent me a copy of an article written a few years ago in a British magazine. My friend had tried one of these places on a visit to Palermo and told me to go to Trattoria Primavera, piazza Bologni, off Corso Vittorio Emamuele. We went for lunch and it was very good indeed with low prices. It was so good that we decided to try more from the article.There are a total of eight places mentioned and out of these we managed to eat at five. All were excellent The best of the lot is Casa del Brodo, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 175, a short way off Via Roma towards the port. It is one of the city’s oldest restaurants specializing in marvelous antipasti and fish dishes. Antica Focacceria di San Francesco is next. Their antipasti rustica consisted of many out of the ordinary offerings. The most unusual for us was called Milza. It looked like a small hamburger with sliced something hanging out the sides. I bit it and thought it was mushrooms of some kind. My wife tried it and said no, it was liver. Whatever, it was good and we happily finished it and our meal. When we got back to the hotel I looked up Milza and found out it was veal spleen. We probably would not have tried it if we knew what it was so this was a lesson that we must try all things before we reject them from lack of knowledge. Another place was Al Genio, piazza S. Carlo 9. This piazza is so small it is not even listed on the police maps. It is just steps off piazza Rivoluzione. Try the black octopus pasta. For one of the freshest and most entertaining lunches you can have go to Trattoria Shanghai, Vicolo Mazzani 34, in the Vucciria market. It is not Chinese but Sicilian. When in the center of the market by the fountain, look up at the terrace of the trattoria overlooking the market. The entrance is around the corner. Don’t be put off by the bordello-like staircase. The fish is beautifully cooked, the wine excellent, and the show down below is sure to delight. All of these places get my highest recommendation. We also wanted to try Lo Scalino del Cardinale, via Bottai 18, but it was closed the only day we could go there.<BR><BR>For something a bit different, Hosteria Al Duar, via A, Gravina 31, near the Hotel Joli, serves Tunisian food. We had a combo Tunisian dinner which was quite good except the kabab which was overcooked. <BR><BR>We took a day trip to Cefalu meet Italian friends of ours. The old section is a pretty little town which might be called the Taormina of the north coast with nearly as many tourists. We ate at L’Atica Corte and had a very pleasant if large lunch.<BR><BR>Back in Palermo that evening we didn’t want another big meal and went to what is reputed to be the best pizzeria in Palermo, Pizzeria Italia, via Orologio just off via Maqueda opposite Teatro Massimo. You can’t miss their large yellow sign on via Maqueda. They have a wood burning oven, which is a must for proper pizza. It was excellent but I cannot guarantee they are the best as they were the only one in which we had pizza. <BR><BR>I have one other gem of information to pass on. Those of you staying at Hotel Joli, Gardenia, or any of the others in that area have only a short walk to pastry heaven. If your hotel is bit farther away it is worth the effort to go here. Just around the corner from Hotel Joli heading towards the port at via Mariano Stabile 83 is D’Asta, a small pasticceria that makes the absolute best pastries, cookies and marzipan I have ever had. All are made in house. The products of this establishment make all others I saw or had in Palermo pale by comparison. The owner is a small elderly lady who will treat you with great kindness. Look at the large old photo on the wall behind the main showcase. It is she as a young girl. A truly beautiful place in a beautiful land

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Ken, thanks for your in-depth report. We will be in Sicily in September with several days in Palermo and was especially interested in your restaurant recommendations particularly the pasticceria, D’Asta. Thanks, again.

Hi Ken,<BR><BR>Appreciate you taking the time to put together a detailed report. Thanks especially for the pastry shop and restaurant recommendations in Palermo. <BR><BR>We will be staying at Hotel Joli also when we visit in June. Sounds like you enjoyed your stay there which I 'm glad to hear. Did you need to use the air conditioning when you went and if you did, did it work well? <BR><BR>Also, how was the breakfast at the Joli and since your room sounds like a good one, overlooking the square, do you remember what number it was? <BR>

We did not use the a/c as the nighttime temp was about 60F. It is present in the room though. Breakfast was good but there is one trick you should know. It is not self-serve and not all the food available is out for you to see. They have just about anything. Just ask the waiter and he will get it for you. Our room number was 206. Any of the higher floors should have the same plan, ie, 306, 406. Please see the first part of my Palermo report for more info the Joli; you may have to search for it now.

Ken thanks for the info. I'll keep it in mind about the breakfast. I did find the other sections of your report. I had considered the Gardenia as well but was put off by the way they handled the reservation and decided to book at the Joli. I think from your feedback we made a good choice. <BR><BR>We'll also be staying in Taormina and plan to do a daytrip to Catania. Your feedback is much appreciated.