Back From Rome!
 

Dear Fodorites, I just got back from Rome, and I had the greatest time. I am kind of tired, so will not post much today, but wanted to let you know that I thought of you all very often during my week in Rome. Thanks for all the great information that truly made my week in Rome a pleasure.

First of all, thank you to the Fodorites who recommended the Albergo Del Senato. It was fantastic. I can't rave about it enough. The location is truly incredible. To look out your window and see the Pantheon, especially at night lit up, is overwhelming. Thank you for the suggestion to request a room with a view of the Pantheon. Everyone who works there is friendly, helpful and truly professional. They made my stay there very enjoyable. It was amazing! We were given a corner room, so it was a little bigger than some rooms, and had two windows. Breakfast was good, and if you were up early enough, might even be able to grab an English written newspaper. Taza D'Oro is next door, so during the day I would get a cappuccino for 80 Euro, and one day tried a special blue mountain espresso with whipped cream. I know many people say they don't care that much about where they stay, but to be honest, the location of the Albergo Del Senato is so centrally located that we found we used our room often. We sometimes came back to the room to drop off things we have bought, or back to rest for a while, so the location is ideal. We had a TV (good for watching CNN or some American show is Italian) a mini bar, desk and a safe in a armoire. Our bathroom was large, beautiful and in marble, and I was glad to have a tub/shower.

Off to rest and tomorrow I will start to post the rest of my trip. Ciao for now. Lisa

Welcome back, can't wait to hear about your trip. My friend lives right behind the Pantheon and we visit often. It is a great location.

Can't wait to hear about your trip!
Welcome home!

Awaiting your trip report. Rome is one of my favorite cities.

Looking forward to your report. Gee, I wish I had your budget and could afford 80 Euro for a cappuccino! :-d

That must be some dy-no-mite coffee at $100 a pop--did you get to keep the cup? Hah!

I, too, am looking forward to your trip report. Perhaps "cappucino" has another meaning in Rome? After all, it is something hot and tasty.

Now I know I was tired! 80 CENTS for the coffee! What a bargain.
My trip to Rome almost didn't happen. I told everyone I was leaving on a Monday, early evening flight. I called my hotel to confirm my hotel room, and we spoke about the day I was arriving. Something didn't jive. I had a puzzling, nagging thought. I looked at the computerized calendar my DH (what exactly does that stand for? Damn husband, dear husband. Depending on your mood?) left for me and saw that I was leaving on Sunday, not Monday!! I guess I got confused because you leave the day before you arrive in Rome, and I guess I have my hotel date in my head. Oh what a big mistake that would have been. Thank god i caught that mistake early enough so it didn't affect my trip. I did have to call some friends from the airport to say goodbye, much to their surprise, and had some explaining to do. My Delta flight was not very full, and I had the seat next to me empty. The lucky ones were the ones who had the entire middle sections to themselves to lounge out. I bought an eyemask and earplugs (got that idea from another Frodorite) and was able to sleep for a few hours.) I arrived in Rome and awaited DH who was coming from Torino. When he got off his plane, we called the cab company my DH arranged, and soon we were on our way. To my dismay, it was raining. I thought to myself, oh I hope our whole week isn't like this.

We checked into Albergo Del Senato, but it was too early to get our room. They held our suitcases for us and away we went to explore the Pantheon area. Our hotel suggested Antonio Al Pantheon for lunch, but it wasn't open yet. We walked to Dai Tre Amici, and they were just opening, so we went in for lunch. My DH wanted to try the vegetable buffet antipasto, mentioned in the Fodor's See It guide. It looked very nice. One problem. He ordered it, got up, took the very small plate, and got a small portion. After that, he did the same two more times. The waiter glared at him, and angrily told him that he would have to charge him 3 times the price. He told us this is not like a hotel "buffet". My husband showed him how little food he put on his third dish, and if he had know that, he would have piled it on! The waiter was nasty. I think the owner came in and the waiter told him about what happened, and the owner nicely told us it wasn't a big deal. Of course we were still charged 18 Euros for what he ate, and it definitely wasn't worth that much!

When our room was ready we went back to our room and took a siesta. When we got up, it stopped raining and we were off to explore more of the area around us. The Pantheon area is in my opinion a perfect place to be located. You are within walking distance to the best places. I can't tell you how many times we saw the Navona area, Campo Fiori, Trevi Fountain, both day and night. It is great for picture taking. More later.

I have to tell you about our favorite restaurant during our Rome trip. Our hotel recommended it, and we loved it so much, we went there three times. It is called Il Chianti, Via Del Lavatore, by the Trevi Fountain. The restaurant is lined with wine bottles, and there were people waiting for a table by 8:00. The service was friendly and the food was delicious. My DH had pumpkin ravioli in a truffle sauce that was delicate and tasty. The ossobucco was tender and fell off the bone. I had the Bucatini amatricana, which was delicious. The salads looked great, but we never tried them. The desserts were out of this world. We tried a few, and the best was the warm chocolate cake, the tirimasu (best we ever had), and the apple pie, which was a moist apple muffin topped with marscapone cream.

Our worst meal was at the L'Orso 80, I'm afraid. I know a lot of people raved about it, and we probably should have stuck to the antipasto. My husband wasn't in the mood for the antipasto. A couple next to us were having it, and it looked overwhelming to us. I had a pasta dish and he had veal. The problem was both dishes were too salty. I couldn't eat mine. When I told the waiter about it, he said it was because of the pecorino cheese they added on top. He didn't offer to replace it, and by then I had lost my appetite. We should have stuck to what they make best, antipasto. A word of advice, if you order pasta, ask for the cheese on the side. Regards, Lisa

This is not the first opinion I read that says that the food at Orso 80 is too salty. The saltiness does not come out quite as strongly in the antipasto. I would doubt, though, that the pecorino cheese was at fault; I think they simply oversalt their dishes. I've encountered the same problem elsewhere.

Do other people have a problem with the guys who try to give you roses by the Trevi Fountain? One night my husband and I were sitting there enjoying the view and a man tried to shove roses in my face. I kept telling him no thank you, I don't want it, nicely several times and he forcibly kept trying to give them to me. After the fifth or sixth time, my husband got very angry with him and it wasn't very pleasant. Between the guys selling the roses, the squishing toys and the polaroid pictures, no one leaves you alone to enjoy the sights of the Trevi Fountain.

Some chefs are salt freaks. Our favorite restaurant in our home town changed chefs recently. Mrs. Fly loves their onion soup. Orders it the first time with the new head chef, and it was so salty she couldn't eat it.

Someone at the next table ordered it and loved it--they commented that the restaurant finally was putting enough salt in the food.

My thought is that if there's not enough salt, the customer can always add more. But it's really difficult to remove salt that the kitchen has already included.

The problem with the rose-profferer was that you responded politely with "no thank you." A firm NO with direct eye contact probably would have sent him scurrying.

To "No" forcefully said, you should add just as forcefully "Va via" (which means "go away").

It can be used in any situation if you are being harassed; most Italians, if they hear it, will leap to your defence in getting rid of the bum.

Of course, there may be no Italians within 100 meters of the Trevi Fountain, so it might not work quite as well there...

Oldmyst,
Enjoying your report so far.
What kind of "cab service" did you prearrange to get into Rome?
My inlaws will be flying into Rome to meet us (we'll be driving in), and I'd like to hear about it.
Thanks,
Dina

Eloise, some months ago I was sitting at the outdoor cafe in Union Sq. in SF and a homeless woman came up and started badgering me. I don't know where I thought I was (well I was at the outdoor table at the Italian Cafe). Anyway, after saying "no thank you" a couple of times I blew my top and yelled at her "Va Via!" Guess I for the moment thought I was in Italy -- I didn't say that on purpose, it just popped out of my mouth. But this woman looked so startled and turned around and ran across Union Sq. in such a panic everyone else (mostly Europeans that day) started laughing. Va via does work..even in SF.

LOL LoveItaly!!! One time after a particularly hard day at work, I scared away a drunk NY homeless man who was begging for money - one look at me and he said "Da*n, it's just not worth it!" and ran away. Gotta love city living!

Unfortunately, people with roses relentlessly badgered everyone at Trevi fountain and at Piazza Navonna. Although I saw them at the Spanish Steps, none of them bothered me. :D

Sorry it ruined your experience for you both. Can't wait to read the rest of your trip report.

www.romeshuttlelimousine.com

We paid 35 Euro to the hotel from the airport and the car was a Mercedes, and 45 Euro back to the Airport because we needed a van because of extra luggage.
The drivers were prompt and courteous, and we were very happy with the company.

Our second day in Rome was spent exploring the Trevi area, the Piazza Navona, and the Campo Fiori. The weather was great, and all my fears of a raining vacation disapeared. The fountains just captivated me. I couldn't take my eyes off of them. We visited the areas both night and day. We bought a tartufo to go from Tre Scalini and ate it in the Piazza Navona. (much cheaper than eating it at a table) We took pictures and more pictures. Every night my husband downloaded the pictures from our camera and we recharged the batteries for another day of wonderful sites to photograph. We also went to the Victor Emmanuel Monument, where the soldiers stand guard and saw incredible views of the Roman Forum. My DH and I parted ways, and I went to the Capitoline Museum by myself. We met back at our hotel, and he couldn't believe that I never consulted a map to navigate my way back. You see, my secret is to ask for directions, something a man hates to do! The hardest thing I found to do is to cross some of Rome's busiest streets that have no traffic lights and constant traffic. I stood there and watched what other people do. They just seem to look and cross, even with oncoming traffic. I followed suit and saw that cars and scooters slowed down and stopped for pedestrians. At least I hoped so. Every evening we would enjoy our view of the Pantheon. There seemed to be someone playing a guitar and singing, who entertained the people in the square. I usually collasped into bed by 11PM and watched CNN Europe (the only English speaking channel), or tried to follow some American show dubbed in Italian. I particularly loved watching the Italian commercials. They can be very funny. I would also look at my guidebook and try to decide what we would be doing the next day, because that is usually what my DH would ask, "what are we doing tomorrow?"

Now it is the Wednesday of our trip to Rome. I must say we have slept very well at our hotel. The bed is very comfortable. Someone I met in Rome mentioned to me, when they heard I was staying on the Pantheon Square, it must be noisy there at night. Lively yes, but when you are in your hotel room, the double glazed windows drown out the noise, and by a certain hour, if there is an musical entertainer, they are gone for the night.

We had 11AM reservations for the Borghese Museum. We decided to take a taxi for that and we knew to be there 1/2 hour before 11AM. It was a little confusing at the museum as to what line to stand in. One line to show your reservation and pay, one line to check in your hangbags and backpacks, but they don't take coats, which I found strange, (it was kind of annoying to have to carry your coat with you.) and another line to get an audioguide or a personal guide. We were offered either, being told we would only be in an English speaking group of 6 for the same amount of money 5 Euro apiece. We chose the personal guide, which we enjoyed, and she spent a lot of time with all the statues, explaining Bernini's work and I truly enjoyed that. She was a very good guide. The only problem we encountered, which if you choose to do the same thing, is that she left us to do the second floor of the paintings by ourselves for about a half hour and we had no resource information with us, so the six of us were kind of lost. Make sure your guide will be showing you both floors. We had nothing to explain what we were looking at, and at that time wish we had an audioguide. I barely had time to see the art when the guard were throwing us out. They keep to a two hour schedule and shooed us out of the paintings area. I truly enjoyed the Borghese Museum and loved the Bernini statues.

When we left the Borghese Museum, we walked a little into the garden area. Because it was the about March 1 there was only a few flowers starting to bloom in the gardens, and the bushes were still covered. We walked a little and my DH wanted to explore more of the gardens. I didn't, so we split up again and I walked to the Spanish Steps area by myself, and we proposed to meet up in about an hour. The Steps were very crowded for that time of year. I can't imagine what they will be like when regular season starts. There is scaffolding on a building at the top of the steps and no flowers yet. It wasn't very special to look at. I took a Fodorite's advice and bought my daughter a handbag from Furla, where you get a good bag without breaking the bank. I also bought an adorable watch from Furla for my other daugher which has crisscross leather staps with small studs on it. I did look in Frette (over $600 Euro for a set of sheets), Fendi (over $1,000 Euro for the pocketbooks I looked at)and an Italian store that seemed to make a knockoff look of a Hermes Kelly bag for a reasonable amount. I didn't care too much for the Spanga area, and wasn't too into shopping. I have Fifth Avenue and Madison Avenue within an hour of where I live, and besides I am a discount shopper anyway.

Everyday we stopped somewhere just to have a cold drink or a glass of white wine. One day we had a slice of pizza. It is more economical to stand and have your food and drink, as they charge a cuperto for a table. It was worth it for me as we tended to be on our feet for so many hours and that brief respite was a blessing.

We went to Trastervere to look around and my DH had fresh blood orange juice and I had a glass of wine at one of the Trattorias. My DH DID NOT like Trastervere. He found it dirty, dog poo on the streets, graffiti, and not as charming as other areas of Rome. I don't know if we saw all of Trastevere, but didn't spend too much time there. We never had dinner there, and I won't pass judgement on Trastevere, as I feel I didn't spend that much time there. I am glad we chose the Pantheon area to stay. One Fodorite told me that he felt as my first time in Rome, it would be best to be centrally located, and he was right. Regards, Lisa