HUH

must not have been very nice since you have nothing to say about it.

elaine

Thank you for stating the obvious, but my posting was too long, so here it is in parts <BR>12/7-12/10-- First time to Paris in December. Temps were in the 50sF during the day with some drizzle each day. Hotel d'Aubusson: 33 rue Dauphine, 6th Looked as if it had been beautifully redecorated last week. 4-star. 5-8 minute walk to either St Michel or Odeon metro stop.Rooms facing rue Dauphine do get some street noise from traffic or horns. Nearby rue de Buci has many places to buy provisions-- stores selling fruits, cheeses, breads, wine, even roasted chickens. You'll need your own paper plates, utensils, napkins, and cork screw. <BR>During this visit we went to two department stores, La Samaritaine and Au Bon Marche. La Samaritaine has everything from fashion to hardware. Also a surprisingly large selection of embroidery and needlepoint canvases and supplies. Au Bon Marche, is perhaps comparable to Neiman-Marcus in the US. It's in the 7th. They also have an embroidery department. Is this so popular a French hobby? <BR>I finally made it to Pere LaChaise Cemetery. If you bring sneakers or comfortable walking shoes to Paris, this is the place to wear them. The roadways are cobblestoned, and to find some of the notables' graves you have to walk among them in the dirt. And there are very very steep hills in this cemetery. At the main entrance (metro Pere LaChaise) there is someone who sells maps of the cemetery, and there's no point in going in unless you have a map. Next time I'm going to try traveling to the next metro stop on the same line, the Gambetta stop. Perhaps there is someone at that entrance also selling maps. Does anyone know? It might avoid one having to climb those difficult hills. Comments from experienced LaChaise visitors? <BR>Excellent discounts on perfumes and some cosmetics: Catherine, 5 rue de Castiglione. <BR>

elaine

Just down the street is Cristal Vendome, 1 rue de Castiglione. 20-30% discounts on name brand French crystal. If they don't have in stock the item you want, they can probably get it for you. They also gladly accept fax inquiries and orders, fax # 1 42 61 46 56. <BR>My two favorite places for lunch or an afternoon break: <BR>1. Laudree, 16 rue Royale, in the 8th. (They have a newer location also at 75 Champs-Elysees). Open from 8:30 am. Close around 7. Lunch food of all kinds but the croissants, hot chocolate, pastries, and other desserts are beyond wonderful. At peak hours you may have to wait for a table. The line of people buying pastries to take home is also pretty impressive. cont'd2. La Bucherie, 41 rue de la Bucherie, in the 5th. On the left bank, just opposite Notre Dame. They have a fireplace to feel cozy around, very good food, and excellent desserts. Basically continuous service from noon to midnight, so it's a particularly good place to go to, as we did, on your day of arrival when you're not sure if it's breakfast, lunch, or dinner time. La Bucherie's phone is 01 43 54 24 52. <BR>A browse through the Flower Market lightened the mood of the Conciergerie. Whenever I visit this flower market I wish for a vase so as to be able to buy some flowers and place them in the hotel room. I don't know, perhaps hotel front desks have extra vases, I've never asked. Anyone have a suggestion for a "travel vase"? <BR>Restaurants for dinner: <BR>1. Spoon food & wine, 14 rue de Marignan, in the 8th. www.spoon.tm.fr <BR>Phone 01 40 76 34 44, fax 01 40 76 34 37. Advance reservations essential. Unusual food, Asian and American influences, interesting combinations of spices and herbs. Many vegetarian alternatives. If caramel ice cream is offered for dessert, don't miss it. I'm still thinking about it. <BR>2. Paid my second visit to Le Violon d'Ingres, and was even more thrilled this time. As far as I can tell, it's perfect. 135 rue St-Dominique, in the 7th. phone 01 45 44 15 05, fax 01 45 55 48 42. Advance reservations essential.French food, with astounding modern variations. <BR>Crime and personal safety. Once again I had my over-the-shoulder and tuck-under-the-arm nylon totebag with internal zippered pockets for my wallet and passport. Once again I am happy to say that I have not been a crime victim while traveling. I was in crowded and "touristy" places like the Louvre, and I used the metro at peak hours. Aside from the caution I normally exercise anyway in the big city I live in, I don't feel the need to wear any special security devices while traveling. However, each person should do what he/she is comfortable with. <BR>Did I mention the trip was fabulous? <BR>I'm incorporating more details into my Paris file which people are welcome to look at if they email me. <BR>

Meg

Sounds great, Elaine! We're looking forward to our stay at d'Aubusson in February. I can't wait to get there.

Patti Suttle

Elaine-thank you for the Paris information. We'll be staying in the 7th next summer. I was wondering what type of price range does Le Violon d'Ingres have? Thank you for your time. <BR>Patti

Christina

I believe there are available maps at every cemetery entrance, however, I thought they were a free, although I think there are private entrepreneurs selling them around there also. Also, there is a map in the green Michelin guide, which you should get if you don't have one, as you seem to be planning to return to Paris. ALthough perhaps not as convenient, as with most things nowadays, there is an excellent online web site for Pere Lachaise where you can get maps and print them out (http://gargl.net/lachaise/

elaine

Patti <BR>Le Violon was 1400FF for two, including two aperitifs and two glasses of wine <BR> <BR>Christina <BR>Thanks for the suggestion re the Michelin guide but they just don't work for me, too much to read on site. Good for pre-trip research,I'm sure, especially for historical info, but not my cup of tea. For Paris I now prefer the Fodors Pocket Guide to Paris, use other resources at home while planning. <BR>Thanks for the hint on the Pere Lachaise website, printing out a map certainly eliminates the retailer.

Barbara

I used two maps ar the cemetary since the mapmakers seemed to have a problem showing exactly where some of the graves were. The cemetary is not layed out in any semblance of straight lines so the more maps you can collect the better if there is a particular "must see" site you don't want to miss. It was well worth negotiating the steep hill and cobble walkways. I stayed at the d'Aubusson last year and also found it very convenient.