Back from Madrid/Southern spain trip
 

Had a wonderful time on this trip, which was our first in Spain, and included Madrid, Toledo, Seville, Ronda, and Granada (brief stop in Jerez). Just wanted to comment on some of the hotels:<BR>In Seville we stayed at the Casas de la Juderia on the northern part of the Barrio Santa Cruz. This hotel has been written up many times on this board, so I won't add too much else, other than that it was wonderful, in a great location, charming, and we would definitely choose it again.<BR>In Madrid - Hotel Intur Palacio San Martin. It hasn't been commented on too often on this board, probably because it is relatively new, but I think it is a real find. It is just steps from Sol, but on a quiet, very atmospheric little square that feels far from the bustle of the surrounding streets. It's quite an elegant 4 star, but rates seem to be reasonable - we payed about $100 per night (though this was on a weekend so probably cheaper than midweek). It's just around the corner from the Carlos V, which has gotten a lot of reviews on this board, and seems to be liked mainly for it's location. Definitely try to get a room on a high floor with a little balcony overlooking the square - we requested this but weren't assigned one our first night, but were insistent and they changed us the next morning.<BR>In Ronda, we stayed just outside the town at a wonderful B&amp;B type place called La Cazalla. Located at the end of a bumpy dirt road (you definitely need a car to stay here!), it's a place to relax in the country for a few days. Very elegant, with beautiful rooms, sitting room area and outdoor patio. The location was perfect for us- felt like we were in the middle of nowhere, but close enough to be in Ronda for dinner in a matter of minutes.

I am in the process of planning a trip for southern Spain - so your post is great. How long did you stay in these locations and where did you begin and end? I have never been to Spain. I must be in Alicante for 3 days in late December, but don't have to return until to the US for 9 days. Any help would be appreciated.

Can you give an idea of your cost for Casa Juderia and La Cazalla? Were you there in September?

For June and &quot;tourist&quot;<BR>casas de la Juderia was about$115 per night (without breakfast), and La Cazalla was about $100 (including breakfast).<BR>we flew into madrid, stayed 3 days, then took the local train to Toledo where we stayed overnight. I definitely recommend doing this, as we liked the town so much better at night when all the crowds are gone! Then we took the train back to atocha station in Madrid where we caught the high speed AVE train to Seville. We only had 2 days here, and would have preferred at least one more. Next we rented a car, and drove to Ronda, with stops in Jerez for a sherry bodega tour and sanlucar for lunch. Spent 2 days in the ronda area, where we explored the white villages and some caves in the area. Then drove to granada where we stayed 2 nights in the Alhambra Palace hotel. I think it was a perfect distribution of time given how much time we had - of course a couple of more days, particularly at least an extra day in Seville, would have been great.

If you do decide to try for the Casas de la Juderia, book early! I tried getting in there two months ahead of my mid-October trip and the place was full. I second Lily's recommendation in Madrid: try the Palacio San Martin instead of Carlos V. I only wish I knew about it in time for my trip!

Lily,<BR><BR>My husband and I have a room booked at the Carlos V for next May. I looked at the web page for the Hotel Intur Palacio San Martin. While it looks lovely, the rate posted is 192 Euros for a double room. 126 Euros on weekends. Of course, we will be in Madrid from Monday to Friday! We've reserved a balcony room at Carlos V...hopefully it will be nice, albeit a bit noisy from what I hear.

Kelley,<BR>We booked our room at the Intur Palacio through an internet booking site, not directly with the hotel. I don't quite recall which site it was - either hotelreservations.com, asia-hotels.com (they do hotels in Europe, too!), or something else. If you do a search for &quot;intur palacio madrid and discount hotel reservations&quot; you should get a list of options, and might be able to get a discounted rate.

Hi lily,<BR>I'd like to try La Cazalla sometime for something different in the country but within easy proximity of Ronda. Do you have a particular room recommendation? I'm assuming they are all unique with their own special charm.<BR><BR>Did you manage to fit in all that you had planned on your drive from Seville to Ronda-bodega/horse ballet/Sanlucar/Arcos? I remember our &quot;talking&quot; about that being a doable drive in Oct. <BR><BR>I certainly agree with you about the Intur Palacio San Martin being a fresher, nicer choice than the Carlos V these days. I toured it this summer after a visit to the next door Convent of the Descalzas Reales and was impressed by the pretty decor. The square then was in the process of gentrification, facades being cleaned, etc. but was quiet , nicely away from the throngs but just 2 blocks from the Puerta del Sol.<BR><BR>Glad you had a wonderful trip.<BR>Maribel

Maribel,<BR>I heard about La Cazalla from someone on this forum ( I think her name was Nikki), who recommended it as an alternative to Molino del Santo. If you haven't already, you can see a good description and pictures of it on www.i-escape.com. Room 1 was mentioned to have the best views( there are only 5 rooms), which is true, as it overlooks the valley. We did reserve this room, but they forgot (maybe we did this TOO far in advance!) and were given room 5 which was just as beautiful inside, but looks out onto the front of the hotel and the main entrance. We didn't bother trying to switch since the room was beautiful and we weren't indoors that much anyway, but i'd definitely recommend room 1. All the rooms are charming, with great down comforters and unique showers lined with blue mosaic. As I said, the location was perfect for us - we really wanted to be in the country, but after our huge dinner at Tragabuches we certainly appreciated not having far to drive home!<BR>We didn't get quite as much done as we had planned on the drive from Seville to Ronda. The horse show was all sold out (this was just under a month in advance!) so unfortunately we missed it-another reason to go back! The Sandeman bodega tour was really good - interesting and informative, with a sampling of 3 sherries at the end. No need to reserve in advance there (unless you're with a large group). We did make it to Sanlucar, and drove by Arcos and some other white villages on our way to Ronda, though we didn't stop.<BR>It was a great trip, and I'm already starting to do research for another one (though it won't be for a least a year)! Next time I want to visit the Basque country and asturias - I've been reading your and other posts on these regions with anticipation!<BR><BR>By the way, do you happen to have any information about The Spanish Institute on the Upper East Side, or other organizations that offer cultural and language interchanges in NY? ( I think you mentioned that you are from the NY area). We would love to interact with more people from Spain, learn some Spanish and more about the culture.<BR><BR>Lily

Hi Lily,<BR>Thanks so much! I'm planning a month in Andalucia in the spring and want to try new and different lodgings in the countryside this time. I do like Nikki's Andalucia offerings at<BR>www.i-escape and those of the Rusticae group and Inns of Spain. I shall definitely put La Cazalla on my list. And I shall also make reservations for the Dancing Horses at least a month in advance! That I find really surprising for October!<BR><BR>I know you'll love your next trip to the Basque Country and Asturias. Northern &quot;Green&quot; Spain has so much to offer-spectacular scenery and breathtaking drives, the ancient pilgrim's route to Santiago with historic monuments galore, pre-Romanesque churches, prehistoric caves, hidden cove beaches, truly fabulous cuisine, delightful fishing villages, charming, beautifully decorated guest houses run by warm and friendly folks.<BR>We never tire of travelling there. <BR><BR>Yes, I do visit the Spanish Institute on Park from time to time for lectures, art exhibits, concerts, etc, but I'm not a member (should become one some day). I'm sorry I can't advise about the quality of their language classes. <BR>But here's another idea in case you haven't thought of it already: <BR>Because I'm a Spanish educator, I became a member of the Instituto Cervantes on East 42nd in order to use their large lending library (both for books and videos), receive their D.E.L.E. exam preparation materials, attend seminars (even wine tasting classes) and receive discounts for performances at the Repertorio Espanol, to purchase books at the Libreria Hispanica (in basement of the French bookstore at Rockefeller Center) and even discounts at my favorite Spanish restaurant, Solera (now that Meigas on Hudson is closed-don't like Marichu near the U.N. all that much anymore).<BR>See the Inastituto's many offerings at<BR>www.institutocervantes.org<BR>You can read about member benefits at<BR>http://users.rcn.com/cervante.interport/wed3-1.html<BR>I highly recommend a membership, as it offers more cultural activities, and I've heard good reports about their Spanish classes.<BR><BR>Maribel<BR>

Definite tangent, but interesting coincidence. I just ran an article about the expansion and renovation of the Institute Cervantes in New York. If you'd like to know more about the security issues involved in the renovation, here's the URL for the article:<BR>http://www.facilitycity.com/tfm/tfm_02_09_news2.asp

lily,<BR>Speaking of NYC and Spain: <BR> I'm planning to get up to the Cathedral of St. John the Divine next week to see the Treasures of Castilla-Leon exhibit that has received rave reviews in 2 separate articles in the NYTimes. 100 art treasures from Las Edades del Hombre Foundation of the Junta de Castilla-Leon, including paintings by Goya and El Greco. Apparently they've had relatively few visitors to this very special (and free!) exhibit because few realize it's even there. I think it ends Nov. 24 Just thought I'd put in a little &quot;plug&quot; for those Spain lovers who reside in the NYC metropolitan area.

Maribel,<BR>Thanks for all the information! I will definitely check out the Cervantes institute. I&quot;ve been meaning to check out the exhibit at St John the Divine - I didn't realize it was ending so soon, I thought it just started recently. Thanks for reminding me to make it up there before it's over.

Hi Lily,<BR>I finally got up yesterday to the Cathedral of St. John the Divine to see the &quot;Las Edades del Hombre' exhibit (then went to the U.S. premiere of Almod&oacute;var's &quot;Talk to Her&quot; at the Lincoln Center cinema-while waiting in line, Almod&oacute;var, much to my surprise, was standing right in front of me taking pictures of the marquee-this movie is also a true &quot;must see&quot;, surely to be nominated for best foreign film). <BR><BR>The exhibit from Castilla-Le&oacute;n, in the cathedral ambulatory, was spectacular, very moving, because one can see these amazing works truly &quot;up close and personal&quot; and without the tourist hordes. I was particularly moved by the sculpture of Saint Teresa, just amazing in its beauty, particularly of her ornate painted cloak. And also the personal diaries of Santa Teresa and San Juan de la Cruz. Additional treats were a beautiful San Sebasti&aacute;n by El Greco and the amazingly life-like Baroque polychromed wood sculptures of Berruguete, Diego de Silo&eacute;, Juan de Jun&iacute; and Gregorio Fern&aacute;ndez from the Museo Nacional de Escultura in Valladolid. I rented the audio guide, which was very well done.<BR>I'm posting this because the exhibit has been extended until Dec. 6, for those who live in NYC or within commuting distance. Well worth the trip! If you can't make it to NYC, the exhibit will be moving to Segovia from May to October, '03. Hope you can see it. It's really lovely.<BR>Maribel

Lily,<BR>Glad you had a great trip. Your trip report is very informative--thank you for taking the time to post it. <BR><BR>Just one question--which caves did you go to near Rhonda? Were they worth the visit?<BR><BR>

We are planning a short visit to Madrid in February. I have already been to Barcelona and just loved it. I am curious on what Hotel to stay at. Location is important to us. Of course we will include Art, culture and sightseeing on our trip along with tons of shopping and fun. Is anyone familiar with a hotel that has a &quot;hip&quot; attitude along with a convenient location?<BR>thanks in advance.

Maribel and Lily,<BR>there have been talks last week in Spain of moving the exhibition, &quot;Time to hope&quot;, after it closes down in New York to chicago or Washington. It is only tentative, and I guess it will depend on the availability of a decent-sized church.<BR>Next year´s Segovia will probably be quite different, and also amazing.<BR>http://www.lasedades.es<BR><BR>The Junta de Castilla-Leon will be bringing to New York at the beginning of next year another exhibition about Atapuerca, one of the mankind´s craddles<BR>http://www.atapuerca.com<BR><BR>Rgds, Cova

Hi cova,<BR>I hope they do find another venue for the exhibit here during the winter before it heads to Segovia so that others will have a chance to see it. The beauty about seeing it at St. John the Divine is the very close proximity one can have to these masterpieces and the total lack of crowds (so far). I had seen the Edades del Hombre exhibit in Valladolid and it was quite different. <BR>Actually, the Atacapuerca: the First Europeans is scheduled here at the American Museum of Natural History from Jan. 11 to April 15.<BR><BR>I see today that &quot;Habla con ella&quot; wasn't chosen as Spain's Oscar nomination for best foreign film. Just read that in my all too brief 1 week &quot;free&quot; subscription to the new elpais.es. You're right; they're not going to change their minds about charging 80 euros. I may have to bite the bullet and subscribe.

Maribel<BR>Thanks for the report about the exhibit at St. John the Divine - you helped me out once with recommendations for my trip to el Pais Vasco, and now you are tipping me off to something in my hometown! I am going to try to visit this weekend. (Because my partner swipes the NY Times arts section everyday for the crossword, I missed the articles.)<BR><BR>What an asset you are to this board, Maribel. And as a former student of Spanish for many years, I am betting you must be a great teacher as well!

Hi Tommy,<BR>Thanks. :-)<BR>I think I remember helping you a while back (Hondarribia/San Sebastian/Arzak???).<BR><BR>Please, if you have the time, try to get up to Lincoln Plaza cinemas or the Landmark Sunshine on Houston to see the Almod&oacute;var film. As the NY Times review on Fri. said, it's really quite moving, and Javier C&aacute;mera's acting is very touching, unforgettable.<BR><BR>If you subscribe to the NY Times archives (or for anyone who does) the articles were:<BR> <BR>Oct. 18: &quot;Embracing Sensuality and Transports of the Spirit (art review)<BR><BR>Oct. 8: &quot;Art Treasures Shown, but Few Behold Them&quot;