Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Back from Italy

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Back from Italy - Venice

My husband and I were Italy and spent 9 days in Venice, Florence, and Rome. Here is our feedback from Venice: Weather - April was Cool and sunny, in the 60s, sprinkled with rain one evening. Dress in layers. Hotel - We stayed at the Hotel Della Mora, cheap (for venice), clean and friendly managment, and easy to reach the bus station, train station, and vaporetti. Our room was spotless, and we had a canal view. Experience in 3 days: Hints - 1. Get a good map! its easy to get lost. It saved us loads of time. 2. Whenever in doubt, follow the Yellow signs (like the yellow brick road). They provide a guide on how to get to major sites like San Marco, Rialto Bridge, Accademia etc. What we did - 1. Took the vaporetti #1 (water taxi)down the grand canal and got a good view of the city. 2. Walked to all the six quarters of the city, and just experienced all the neighbourhoods. Each area has its own personality, shops, etc. Petted the friendly cats, and watched the kids play football (soccer for the Americans) 3. Went to San Marco, if you can, do it on a weekday, less people. We took the secret itinerary tour of the Dodges Palace. Highly recommend it. You get to see areas of the palace closed to the public, and later get to walk around the rest of the building. Our guide was terrific, and we got a lot of good history lessons. 4. St. Marks Bascilica, go up to the roof, you get a beautiful view. 5. Rialto bridge area is full of stalls, shops and the market. Fun way to spend the morning. 6. Visited many of the churches 7. Ghetto Nuevo - the original Jewish Ghetto. Interesting area, lots of history. We did not go to Burano or Murano, as we had intended. We found that there is a lot to absorb and had a good time walking around the main part of venice. Food- Eating in Venice, compared to the rest of Italy is more expensive and not as good. Be aware that main areas are very touristy, and avoid "Tourist Menus", and menus printed in 5 languages! Our suggestion is that you go to areas of Cannaregio, and Dorsoduro and be adventurous. Go to small out of the way places with menus only in itallian. Have a phrasebook, and usually the staff is very helpful. Cannaregio: Main drag, Fondamente Orinesi, which becomes Fondamente Cappuchin had some terrific out of the way restaurants. We ate at Antica Mola - fabulous Venetian style food which we loved. We had scampi rissoto, terrific salmon and steak. Bill came under $40 Some other options around here: Sahara - Arab place with great kababs, felafal etc Osteria Anice Stellato - Venetian style food Osteria Al Bacco - Venetian style food Dorsoduro- Main area to find great places is Santa Margherita square. Great pizza places and cheaper eateries. We ate at La Bitta on Calle Lunga S, and had fantastic gnocchi with artichokes, artichoke salad, and lamb chops. Other places San Tovaso - Venetian food Ai Quasttro Fevi - Looked good from the outside. Post a question, and I will be happy to answer.

How do you sign up for the Secret Itinerary tour of the Doge's Palace? Yours is at least the third recommendation of this tour I've seen on this board. Thanks.

Right now, peak tourist season has not hit in Italy, and it was possible for us to go to the ticket office at teh Dodges palace and sign up for the next day. Some people in our tour had just come 1/2 hour before and signed up as well. Upto May I dont think it will be hard to sign up once you are there, later on, in the mad rush of summer, I suggest you call the info. line of the palace (probably online somewhere) or email them. Mashel

Out of curiousity, which of the three cities did you prefer

Rome. Why? b/c venice is unique and beautiful, pretty to look at, but not as much soul. Florence small, contained, lots of art, but not real enough for me. Rome had it all, for me.

We heard there is a three day vaporetti pass. Do you think it is necessary, or is it easy to get around by walking. We walk 3 miles a day at home, and when we were in Rome last year, we probably topped 5 miles a day.

We stayed in Venice for 3 days and walked to all the six districts w/o any problems at all. Venice (as long as you have a good map and don't get lost by orientating yourself, and following the yellow signs to major sites), seemed very navigable and easy to walk in. If you do 3-5 miles a day, you are doing really well! We found that we didn't need the Vaporetti at all. We used it once to go down the Grand Canal and experience it from the water. have a good time!

We stayed in Venice for 3 days and walked to all the six districts w/o any problems at all. Venice (as long as you have a good map and don't get lost by orientating yourself, and following the yellow signs to major sites), seemed very navigable and easy to walk in. If you do 3-5 miles a day, you are doing really well! You can buy the 3 day pass, but if you like to walk, I wouldnt. We found that we didn't need the Vaporetti at all. We used it once to go down the Grand Canal and experience it from the water. have a good time!

My sister and I are getting read to take this same trip with same number of days ( fist part of may) Do you have a similar writ-up on Rome and Florence. I would be interested in reaading it if you have time to send it to me. Thanks a lot! Donna

Ive written the same for florence and rome... look thru, ill try and top them

We are going to be in Venice May 17-21 after 3 days in Florence. Several have suggested get good maps so we can walk the neighborhoods of Venice. Any suggestions where to get a good map?

Wow, great post. I have taken notes on you 3 cities, especially the recommendations for places to eat. thanks! Mary

Mashel, Which district is the Hotel Della Mora in? Cost? Whose map did you use? I found that even with 2 maps, I was still relying on the Grand Canal and signs to/from San Marco as reference points.

In the process of planning 2 days in Venice in early Oct. as part of a 2 week trip primarily in Florence/Tuscany. Even the moderate/budget hotels seem expensive, but have found 2 that have rooms available. Locanda Leon Bianco on Cannaregio Canal and Locanda Art Deco closer to San Marco Square. Any recommendations or where (or where not) to stay? Thanks

Mashel: Did you have any trouble carrying a backpack of purse into any of the attractions? Have been hearing that they're not allowed in places like St. Marks, etc.

Answering your questions: 1. Hotel dalla mora is in santa croce, 5 min. away from the train station/bus station. Right on a small canal. Unfortunatley there is construction going on around the canals nearby, but worth it. 2. We used a blue map called Tourist Map, Venezia. It is new, and very good. 3. Sorry, dont know about Locanda Leon Bianco on Cannaregio Canal and Locanda Art Deco closer to San Marco Square. 4. We didnt have back packs, but had not problems carrying a medium sized purse into all sites, including st. marks.

Where did you get the map?

Mashel - We are going to Venice in June. Do I need to get tickets to the secret itinerary for Doges Palace ahead of time? If so how do I get them? Thanks.