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-   -   Back from Amsterdam (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/back-from-amsterdam-109349/)

Mary Bohn Mar 1st, 2001 07:51 PM

Back from Amsterdam
 
Wonderful trip, beautiful city. I traveled alone and was perfectly safe and comfortable. <BR>I went just for my love of Rembrandt, but ended up loving everything about the city. The Dutch all speak English, and they were very kind and patient with my questions. Two hotels I can recommend: if looking for a bargain I suggest Hotel Hoksbergen, a bit more pricey but still moderate is the Estherea (given high praise by Fodors). These hotels are right next to each other. What I liked about them: great location, quiet area on Singel Canal, immaculate rooms, and you can walk to everything. The City of Ams. is a piece of cake to get around in. I never got lost and I went all over the place by foot and tram and canal bus. Really, I found the layout of the city to be amazingly simple. I know that people put the city down for its tolerance toward certain things, all I want to impress upon you is that I (alone) had nary a problem. I enjoyed every minute of my 6 days. Within two blocks of the above hotels are two excellent restaurants: Haesje Claes (moderate) and Restaurant d'Vijff Vlieghen (a bit pricey, but not excessive) -where I sat in the Rembrandt room right under HIS etchings. Rijk has 13 Rembrandts at present and there are 13 at The Hague's Mauritshuis. <BR>If you are considering going: GO. I found nothing to be overpriced, and the quality and presentation of their food is awesome. Also spent 1 day in Antwerp to see the Rubins - great!!!

Susan Mar 1st, 2001 08:13 PM

Your Amsterdam report was of great interest as we're going there in early June for 6 days. I have some questions: <BR> Did you visit any of the following: Rembrandt's house, the Tropen museum, the Van Loon museum, Vondelpark & the Amsterdam Historical Museum? If so, your observations please. <BR> Do restaurants & "eetcafes" post their prices & menus in front? <BR> Are there any non-smoking sections in restaurants? In France, we avoided a lot of smoke by eating early - but I read that the Dutch too eat early. <BR> Thanks.

frank Mar 2nd, 2001 02:49 AM

Just back also.Tropen museum - excellent Voldelpark - not great gardenwise but has 2 good outdoor cafes & there are often events/music & strange bicycles to see.There's a riding stables immediately west of the park.(vondelstraat?) <BR>Restaurants/cafes do post their menus outside, usually with an added English version, I've noticed some of the better (cuter looking)cafes don't display an English version (I think this encourages high quality Dutch custom) but are happy to explain it once inside. <BR>Buy a tram ticket when you arrive - ask for a strippenkaart , its the best deal, remember 2 can use 1 ticket, on most trams you stamp your own ticket (driver does it sometimes)its an honesty system. <BR>Stayed in the Ambassade this time, better than the Estheria I thought but I must still tip the Doelen, cheaper than either & just as good overall.

Mary Bohn Mar 3rd, 2001 04:49 AM

Hi Susan, No, I didn't get to Tropen Museum, but there is info on it just above. Rembrandt's house is stunning - I spent more time there than I had planned. None of His paintings are there, but his student's art is there. Just around the corner from his house, I took in "Holland Experience" - a multidimensional film - kind of touristy, but I actually did enjoy it. All the sights and sounds of Holland. The Van Loon was only open Fri-Mon so I missed it. However, do go to the Willet Holthuysen House Museum - lovely stained glass, good garden, Wm. Bouguereau painting of Madonna and Child, dining room table set with Meisen porcelein. <BR>Historical Museum - Yes!. Let me say, the Dutch do everything well. RE: Smoking - I didn't see non-smoking areas, but I dined very early (5 to 5:30pm) and restaurants were not crowded so you can ask for secluded area. Yes, the Dutch do dine late. Of course, I was there in the winter, spring and summer will bring hoards of tourists. If you like fashion, take a train trip (2 hrs.) to Antwerp - almost as good as Milan. Have a wonderful time.

s.fowler Mar 3rd, 2001 06:05 AM

Thanks for your report! We're going be there in 2 weeks! <BR> <BR>Did you by an chance see the Hotel Agora or the Waterfront Hotel. They are both on Singel also. We chose the Agora and of course will report back, but perhaps you wandered by? <BR> <BR>Can you recommend any cafes nearby? [as in french-type - NOT pot cafes:)]

April Mar 3rd, 2001 10:01 AM

Frank, did you actually find the riding school near Vondelpark? We wandered around for over and hour and couldn't find it. <BR> <BR>Mary, my husband and I thought the Holland Experience was a laugh. Whenever I hear any of that music it takes me back to the wonderful Netherlands.

frank Mar 5th, 2001 01:02 AM

Yes, I've been there a few times, was there again last week - it IS hard to find, but worth it, very old & beautiful building with a gallery & an elegant cafe/bar upstairs.You can watch from the gallery, though mostly nothing much but a little schooling goes on, some nice horses. <BR>There is nothing outside to invite you in, nor afterwards to tempt you upstairs, just take your courage in both hands & stroll in.Each time I've been it was very quiet. <BR>I'll post again with the address.

Mary Mar 5th, 2001 04:16 AM

To: S. Fowler, I did not notice the Agora, but I know it has a good reputation. RE: Cafes - I understand there are 1,250 cafes in Amsterdam - you have your pick of traditional and foreign cusine. Also, there are 107 nationalities represented in Holland. At the "Rembrandt Corner" there is a good cafe - very American type food - just in case you miss it (right near Rembrandts House.) Also, just across from that is a darling, really tiny, cafe (which leans slightly to the left) which was always crowded - can't remember name - something like "dePlayschral" I never had a bad meal no matter where I went. Enjoy!!

Jill Mar 6th, 2001 12:43 PM

Mary, The location of the Estherea sounds lovely. Did your room have a canal view, and are those rooms hard to come by? Thanks for sharing info about your trip!

Mary Mar 6th, 2001 04:34 PM

By all means, ask for a canal view room. It will be beautiful and you will appreciate the quiet at night. Back of the hotel is Spuistraat (street) and it is noisy and very busy at night. Also, a fairly tall building on Spuistraat was evidently knocked down allowing for even more noise to come drifting up from that busy street. Eat at Haesje Claes just behind hotel - for starters get the pea soup - best I think I ever had. <BR> I don't know how hard it is to book a canal side room - I guess it depends when you will be there - start booking ahead. I went in the winter and I enjoyed it. Would do it again. Temperature was in the 40's - some beautiful sunny days. Winter is a bargain and crowds are thin. At the Anne Frank house there were about 15 tourists. I understand in spring and summer, the lines go around the block. I did miss the famous flowers - but I would definitely travel to Europe again in the winter. But anytime you go, it is a treat. Great city.

judi Mar 6th, 2001 06:21 PM

Message to S. Fowler: Will be going to Amsterdam in Sept. just made reservation at the Hotel Agora. Please let me know how it was upon your return!! Have a great trip. J.M.

April Mar 6th, 2001 09:48 PM

Thanks, Frank. We did have the address but still couldn't find it! I can't for the life of me think of why we didn't ask a passerby.

frank Mar 7th, 2001 07:32 AM

April : as you walk along the street (Vondelstraat I think - a quiet street of fine buildings)You pass a very wide tall entrance on the side of the streey away from the park.(make sure you are in the correct street - it doesn't run the full length of the park. <BR>Go boldly forth, there should be a brass plate somewhere.This entrance takes you up a tunnel with a massive wooden door which is often closed or just ajar.Push it open.You are in the arena.To get to the balcony, look for a door on your left.(stables are that way too.)The cafe is there too, but no drinks allowed on the balcony itself.

s.fowler Mar 7th, 2001 08:46 AM

Will do! It's a week from tomorrow that we leave for Paris/Amsterdam. Now if I could just get someone to grade my final exams I'd be ready:)


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