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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 05:40 AM
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Back from a lovely two-week trip to Bavaria

DH and I had a wonderful time in Bavaria. We did our entire trip by train which I highly recommend. Thanks to all the good Fodorites for you help-particularly Russ and Manhattangirl. Once I got the gist of how the train system works, it was a piece of cake. We used the Bayern tickets extensively and purchased them over the Internet before we left Washington.

This is a brief report because I know that there are plenty of other more descriptive reports on Bavaria. I would describe us as mature middle class travellers who travel modestly. We usually stay in 3 star hotels that are well-located for sightseeing. We found
Bavaria to be more expensive for hotels (average $217.00 per night) than we are used to, perhaps because of the Exchange Rate ($1.42 to 1 Euro). We were please with our hotels;all offered a hearty breakfast buffet and had pleasant staff. I list them for your convenience:

Nuremburg-Burghotel in the Alstadt
Fussen-Hotel zum Hechten
Munich-Hotel Exquisit
Rothenburg-Hotel Spitzweg
Bamberg-Hotel Barock am Dom

While I found the hotels to be more expensive than I hoped for, all were in very good locations for us to walk everywhere and we seldom used busses or trolleys. The big surprise of the trip was the food. It was just delicious-nicely prepared with delicious
light sauces and fresh vegetables. We were pleased with dinner prices and had no disappointments at any restaurant on the trip.

I sign off with one piece of advice-if you go to Bavaria, do not miss Bamberg. The old town is stunning. It is worth any detour that you have to make.

Pat
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 08:34 AM
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Thanks for the report - we are going to Bavaria in a couple months, and Bamberg, Munich, and Nuremburg are on our itinerary. We are actually staying at the Hotel Barock am Dom in Bamberg.

Any recommendations for Bamberg - restaurants, breweries, activities, etc.?

How did you like the Burghotel in Nuremburg? We haven't booked our hotel for our stay there.

Thanks
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 10:45 AM
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Hi November Moon:

I hope that you enjoy your stay in Bavaria.

To answer your specific questions, we do recommend the
Burghotel in Nuremburg. It is located in the Alstadt and is a very short walk to the castle and to the Albert Durer House.
We turned down our first room because it was above the highest floor and involved too many steps for my arthritic knees. We ended up with a large room on the third floor that had two sofas and a nice terrace with a table and chairs, as well as comfortable beds. The breakfast was very good.

Apparently, there are two Burg Hotels in Nuremburg. Ours was in the Alstadt. I think the other is in the modern part of the city. We arrived by train and got a good map from the tourist office near the station. The hotel was about a 20 minute walk from there.

I would recommend a museum-I think it was called the city museum which has a long film on the history of Nuremburg. It really was not mentioned in my guidebooks but was on the city map that we got from the tourist office. I thought it was interesting. There was a long film at the beginning that was worthwhile.

Be sure to see the double chapel at the castle. We ended up having a private tour of it by an off-duty guide. We tipped her and she was very happy with her 10 Euro tip.

As for Bamberg, the rooms at Barock are a little worn and the shower is a little cramped but I would stay there again. The staff was very nice and the breakfast was adequate. Be sure to tour the Neue Residence-you just wait for the next English tour to go through. There is a Nightwatchman's tour but I don't know if it is in English. I don't remember the names of any particular restaurants but both of our dinners in the Old Town were very good.

Pat
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 05:52 PM
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I have always found the hotels in Germany to be less expensive than in many other European countries.

In September, we stayed in Rothenburg and Bamberg and paid considerably less than $217 per night for very nice, well located hotels:

Rothenburg - The Roter Hahn at E69 per night for double

http://www.roterhahn.com/

Bamberg - Altstadt Molitor at E89 per night for double

http://www.altstadthotel-molitor.de

I'm not trying to be critical of your hotel choices, I just don't want people to be put off thinking that you have to pay that much for nice 3* hotels.

For november_moon, in Bamberg we really enjoyed the Klosterbräu brewery, especially if you can sit out on the terrace (due to smoking being allowed inside) with its nice views.

http://www.klosterbraeu.de/Bamberg/index_micro.htm

We also had a good meal at the Hotel Weirich restaurant as well as at the Hotel Brudermühle. Nothing fancy but good German food at reasonable prices.
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Old Jun 8th, 2011, 05:32 PM
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Wanttogo, sounds like a great trip.

Just wondering, how much luggage did you and your husband have while travelling on trains? Was luggage an issue with out a car? Thanks...
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Old Jun 9th, 2011, 09:21 AM
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lateday traveller,

Between the two of us we had 2 smaller size suit cases (they qualify for airline carryon) with roller wheels and one backpack. We had no trouble getting on and off the train. I am dedicated to packing lightly for our annual international trips and have accumulated dedicated travel clothes that can be rolled in the carry-on and are quick dry. I also bring plenty of Woolite packages (Container Store) and a couple plastic clothes hangers from my grandaughters; closet and I am set for two weeks. I have no desire to deal with large suitcases or a car in Europe. Depending on the country, cars are broken into often and suitcases stolen. Also, they are expensive to rent, operate and park.

Pat
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Old Jun 9th, 2011, 11:03 AM
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Thanks for the additional info. This will be our second trip to Bavaria - we loved it so much the first time that we are going back. I can't wait!

latedaytraveler - We prefer traveling by train in Europe as well. Luggage has not been a problem for us. We take a rollerboard each (carry-on size), a small duffle, handbag, and a camera bag. I handle my rollerboard and my handbag. My husband handles his rollerboard, the small duffle, and the camera bag. On trains there is sometimes luggage space between the rows of seats, in overhead racks, or under seats. Also at the end of the train cars.
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Old Jun 9th, 2011, 04:25 PM
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S-C-H-L-E-N-K-E-R-L-A
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Old Jun 9th, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Aramis - I second that!
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Old Jun 9th, 2011, 05:19 PM
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It qualifies as a secular, in my world. I get goosebumps and watery-eyes every time I approach it.
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Old Jun 9th, 2011, 05:20 PM
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It qualifies as a secular "pilgrimage", in my world. I get goosebumps and watery-eyes every time I approach it

is what I meant to type
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Old Jun 9th, 2011, 09:01 PM
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We have always traveled by car in Germany. It might not be the right choice for everyone but we don't feel it is that expensive for the way we like to travel. Also, we have never had our car broken into during any of our 6 trips to Germany and Austria.
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Old Jun 11th, 2011, 09:27 AM
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I'm with you Bettyk. I love the freedom of the open road and the ability to stop and look at that strange World War II-era building on the side of the road or try the Weinstube advertizing cheap cheap Moselwein. And when I can't find a hotel for under a hundred bucks a night, I find a Zimmerfrei or farm instead. To each his own. Most people probably figure it's a trip of a lifteime and splurge. I've been able to make it back to Germany almost yearly by taking the Walmart shopper approach.
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Old Jun 11th, 2011, 09:55 AM
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I agree with bettyk. I often travel by car in Germany. It's convenient, and the roads are good. I don't try to drive in the big cities, though.

Germany is the only country where I have ever left visible luggage locked in the car--not that I would recommend doing that. But we wanted to see Linderhof on our way to somewhere else, and our choices were to leave the luggage in the car or skip Linderhof.

There was a sort of wandering parking lot attendant in the area, and we asked him if it was safe to leave our stuff in the car while we toured Linderhof. He looked at us like we were crazy--sort of like, "Of course it's safe."

I also think you can find inexpensive hotels in Germany that are attractive, comfortable, and clean. I'd check in a guidebook to get some ideas and then check up-to-date prices on the internet.
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