Back from 3 weeks in Ireland
 

Pleasant vacation from late August through 9/11. Were due to return Sept 12, so ended up with another week in Dublin. Drove a rental car from the Hertz office in south Dublin straight out of town on a Sat morning with no problem. If you want an automatic, book (and pay) ahead of time. They didn't have our car so gave us a free upgrade to a lovely BMW. Happily, we turned it in unscathed 1400 miles later. Itinerary from Dublin to Mallow via Powerscourt Gardens and Glendalough. Mallow (Longueville House) to Blarney Castle - lunch in Kinsale - stone circle south of Rosscarbery to stay at Balleylickey Manor House on Bantry Bay. Next on to Kenmare and Sheen Falls Lodge. Drove out the Ring of Kerry as far as Sneem and the other direction to Killarney. The Killarney lakes really do sparkle in the sun. On to Dingle via the Inch Beach road. It rained in Dingle so we didn't do Slea Head or Connor Pass. Stayed at Greenmont House. Took the Tarbet-Kilmer ferry, drove out to Cliffs of Moher (where we saw the most tour buses). Ate at Moran's Oyster Bar. Yes, it's true you can wait hours for your bill in Ireland. What's the deal? Do they not want to rush you? Stayed at St. Cleran's south of Galway. My absolute favorite - though out of the way for making day trips to Connemara which was our plan. Loved Connemara. Don't bother to pay to tour Kylemore Abbey. You pay $4 to see 3 rooms. But do take a picture over the water. Ballynahinch looked like a place Hemingway may have gone to shoot grouse. Ashford Castle was dreamy. Next time I'll break the piggy bank and stay there. Cromleach Lodge had wonderful food and view and a 5,000 year old portal tomb dolmen on the property. Went to Carrowkeel and Carrowmere -- both impressive for what they were, but basically you're looking at a pile of rocks, so depends what you're interested in. Stayed at St. Ernan's in Donegal and drove out to Slieve League Cliffs which I actually liked better than Cliffs of Moher. Spent more on tweed there ever planned on! I'll be around for a week or so if you have questions. By the way, the roads were not as narrow or walled in as those in Cornwall and didn't have as many potholes as Alaska. Had 1 sheep in the road, 5 tractors (who eventually moved) and were nearly creamed by only 1 tour bus. Took mostly minor roads; the M5 in England is scarier.

So what's your point????

Well, sometimes people have questions. I certainly did before I traveled! Plus, a lot of people are dithering over which hotel to choose and like to hear what someone else thought of them.

Obviously you don't live in the US.

Gayle - good report.

Maybe it would have been better to list the hotels you stayed in and restaurants you visted first. I got dizzy following your "car".

Promise you'll condense this "ride" or I'll puke. Thank you for only staying 1 week here:)

am I missing something? <BR>Why is she getting a hard time?

Gayle, <BR>Thankyou for your holiday report. You didn't say if you spent much time in Dublin. Was the accomodation B&B or hotels. Please don't be put off by the few visiting children we seem to have attracted here. I know the world, in particular the USA, is reeling from the horrific tragedy of September 11, but it's nice to hear something nice about the world and a traveller who has enjoyed themselves seems to be as good as anything. As a first-go report, I thought it was pretty good, perhaps you might like to expand a bit on the most interesting places you visited and stayed in. <BR> <BR>

Hi Gayle, <BR>I was so happy to see your trip report. If all goes well, my family will visit Ireland for the first time next year. We're particularly interested in the southwest. Could you give names of B&B and restaurants you recommend? And so glad to hear the driving was not as heart-stopping as I've heard!

HI Gayle, <BR>Thanks for the great report. It's so nice to hear how others made out. I agree about the roads not being as narrow as COrnwall. I'm glad you had such a good trip.

Wow! I have to be thick skinned to even come back on here. Yes, we spent about 9 days in Dublin. Two at the beginning doing the "tourist" thing -- Book of Kells, Grafton St, Temple Bar. Favorite pub was PorterHouse. Then we spent 7 days at the end of trip waiting for a flight out. During that time we just pretended we lived in Dublin and took walks. South West: favorite town was Kenmare. We did stay at Greenmont House in Dingle -- good food. Can't recommend any other restaurants in the SW off the top of my head, but if you go the place you stay can recommend.

Gayle, how much do you think that you added to your expenses by being stranded that extra week?

I guess that's sort of relative. My husband paid for that week so I don't know the answer. However, you could choose to stay in a cheap B&B, or a nice hotel. You could take neighborhood walks or taxi everywhere. Same with food, and shopping etc. I'd say at minimum if cost another $500.

Hey Gayle - <BR><BR>That's a great (of not dense) menu of places and accomodations for me to ask you about. I am dithering over a good base and accommodation in or near the ring of Kerry. <BR><BR>We already have plans for 2 nights in Kinsale. Should we consider Bantry Bay, or Kenmare? Or somewhere else? Probably wouldn't afford Sheen Falls Lodge, but would seek an alternate hotel. How did you like the Balleylickey Manor? Which town struck you as more authentic, picturesque, quieter?<BR><BR>Thanks a bunch! - Kris

Gayle: Thank you for your detailed and fact-filled account of your trip to Ireland. Unlike many of the adolescent neophyte responses, I found the description very helpful.