Alice

Keli, it's better to buy the musuem pass once you're in Paris, as most pre-orders charge extra. It's very easy to buy- most large metro stations sell them, as do the museums themselves and most likely the tourist office on Champs.

Howard

I agree with Alice. Wait until you get to Paris. The passes are easy to come by. Just make sure you have one before going to the Louvre. Otherwise, you'll probably wait in a long line!

Ron

Thanks for the report, Howard--I've been wondering how your trip worked out. Too bad you missed Vaux-le-Vicomte, because You may have found it a more enjoyable day trip than Versailles. Nive to hear your comment about how nice the people are, because that has been our experience.

slightly

I thought Paris was a wonderful city, too, Howard. I do have to make an exception to one thing you said: I'm not a rude person at all and had several experiences of what I would consider rude behavior (just ordering something in a boulangerie, or a store, once with a waiter: I speak some French and I was always saying bonjour and please and thank you). I live in NY, so it's not like I'm not thick skinned. <BR><BR>Parisians can be very good at giving nasty looks as well. <BR><BR>Overall we met many friendly and helpful people. But I personally believe it's better to be prepared for the reality, and be happily surprised by the good moments rather than the other way around.

Howard

Ron, we were a little disappointed in Versailles, but that may be our fault more than Versailles'! We were a little thrown off that it was a bit confusing and the weather could have been better. And, perhaps we expected too much. Oh, we enjoyed it, but it didn't make our A list. Next time Vaux-le-Vicomte!<BR>Slightly, you have a point. My comment might have been too general. It was really aimed at those who make the sweeping comment that all/most French are rude! From your comments, I infer that you agree that the rude ones are the exception. Being a New Yorker as well, I can certainly relate to your comments.<BR>Forgot to mention two additional food places: <BR>1. Had a great brunch we had one Sunday in Marais at Epices & Delice on rue Vielle du Temple and Francs Bourgeous. Highly recommended.<BR>2. For afternoon pastry break, try Paul (sorry, I lost the address, but it's well know, so you should be able to find it.

slightly

Howard, it's funny, but I'd read so many mixed feelings about Versailles that I didn't have high expectations, but felt like we really should see it. We had lots of rain the day we went, with some good sun in some moments; I know what you mean about that making a difference. I thought it was a little chaotic too. I had to ask three different people for a floor plan.<BR><BR>The palace had much that was interesting to it, though maybe not everyone knows before hand that almost all of the interior furnishings have been destroyed or removed. <BR><BR>The gardens, fountains, canals I thought were wonderful--worth a little time to explore. Amazing historical place.

Howard

Slightly, your comments about Versailles reminded about an experience there that will probably be the longest-lasting one for us about our visit that day. During period of sun and beautiful blue sky, we decided to walk from the main area to the two Trianons, a distance of about 1 1/2 miles. Halfway there, we got caught in rainstorm. We had only taken one umbrella (big mistake since I'm 6' tall and my wife is 5' tall!). So there we were huddled together (me, hunched over) under a tree. We looked up and there were two policemen on horseback under another tree....the only other specimens of humanity in sight! In retrospect, it is something we'll long remember. At the time, we were pissed! Fortunately,we finally made it to the Trianons. Unfortunately, we never could get inside to see Marie Antoinette's farm! (Naturally, we took the tram back to the chateau.)

memories

We loved Versaille! But the long lines were unbearable, as were the crowded trains in the beastly heat. Used the headphone tour, and sat in the gardens for the piped in concert. Almost got kicked out when 8 year old son fell into a fountain! We were panicked at the time, but as Howard suggests, those make the best memories!

Diane

Great report - we were there April 23-30 and enjoyed mostly excellent weather, too, but carried umbrellas nearly everyday just in case. Versailles was a little disappointing...too many crowds. More interesting historic displays were in the Chatelet in the Marais section. That place is simply packed. And there was nearly no one there when we went through. One of the "guards" at the end was happy to show us Louis XVI's desk---with axe scars and other unusual pieces. Our best day trip was to Chartres. It was an easy train trip and the town is darling. Meet at the gift shop in the cathedral at 12noon for Malcom Miller's English language tour. He does another later in the afternoon (2?) which is different from what he covers in the morning. It costs 10Euros per adult, 5 per student, but is simple not to be missed. To have someone with such fabulous knowledge of the history of the place do such terrific tours...well, do try to do this next time you are there. This was a return trip to Paris for us, and I know we'll be back again. It is simply fantastic.

Suzy

Howard, enjoyed your Paris report. I just got back from 10 days there - my third trip. I had seen the obligatory things before, so this time just enjoyed exploring different places and going to the less-visited museums. But I will say, I went twice to the Orsay, as I adore the Impressionists. <BR><BR> I spent a lot of time in the various parks around the city, and the weather was wonderful. However, the day I went to Giverny was sunny and hot, too hot! It was beautiful, though extremely crowded. I wish I had gone in the morning instead of afternoon on a tour bus. I had planned to go to Chartres on my own one day, but never got around to it. Next time for sure, as well as Vaux Le Vicomte. <BR><BR> I met some people who had just come from Mont St. Michel and raved about it, so I decided to go there for a daytrip. I went with a small tour group (5 people) on the TGV to Rennes. Then we were met by a guide in a mini-van and driven to Mt. St. Michel, after a lovely lunch at a place that looks out over the Mont. Mont St. Michel is the most amazing place, and I'm so glad I got to see it. After spending a couple of hours seeing the Abbey and little town, the guide drove us back to the train (a 2-hour trip to Paris). I thought it would be too far for a daytrip, but the TGV makes all the difference.

slightly

Howard, we decided to walk to the Petit Trianon too and had to make our way through some muddy paths. Found a few charming fountains, and saw a lovely field with horses and sheep. <BR><BR>While we were in the main palace, we didn't take a tour. We did see a Chinese woman who'd passed out and needed first aid. Navigating around the tour groups was a little tough, though I do think we were there on a day when it wasn't that crowded.<BR><BR>I really enjoyed Chartres and Malcolm Miller's tour too. <BR><BR>Suzy, I didn't think Mont St Michel was that easy to get to as a day trip, something I'll keep in mind, thanks for the tip.

kk

I've always felt odd when I see the other copycat Versailles around Europe and enjoyed them much more than the original. I usually keep that feeling to myself, but maybe after your posting, Howard, I won't have to anymore. <BR>I agree with you about the lovely Rodin garden and the Marais, and so many other things. I guess on my next trip to Paris (whenever that will be I don't know, but I have been four times now) I should go to the Pierre Lachasse (sp) cemetery. Obviously you also found the best hotel in all of the city for that price range! Well done!<BR>I'm happy to be able to read your trip report at last (you know why). Looking forward to your photos! Cheers, kk

Howard

Slightly, our trips to Versailles had something else in common. Coincidentally, we encountered a fainting woman as well in the chateau! But, also, no, she wasn't Chinese!<BR>KK, the photos will be off to Sally soon for posting!

pariss

for first-timers in Paris...this is a great thread!

Howard

What a delightful and unexpected surprise to see my thread up on top! Now, two months since the trip, the memories still glow brightly! Thanks for the nice comment, Pariss.<BR>For anyone who hasn't see my photos of Paris and Giverny, check out<BR>http://traveurope.net/fodorite.fodor.htm

Kaye

Howard,<BR>Thanks for your wonderful report. Weleave in 5 days for Paris and you got me really psyched! Unfortunately, you address for your photos doesn't work - tried it 3X...Please check it out. I'd love to see your photos as my husband and I are camera buffs.

Howard

Ooops, sorry Kaye, slight error in what I posted. It should be:<BR>http://traveurope.net/fodorite/fodor.htm<BR>Enjoy the photos....and enjoy the trip!<BR>If you have any questions, feel free to email me!

topper

To the top

topper

to the top for Mike

Nolene

Howard, Really enjoyed reading of your experience in Paris. This is a longshot question but I am taking my 3 year old granddaughter. We have a jogging stroller (which is slightly larger than an standard stroller.) You went many places. Will this type of stroller be satisfactory.