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Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St. Remy - restaurant recommendations?

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Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St. Remy - restaurant recommendations?

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Old Oct 1st, 2010, 02:10 PM
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Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St. Remy - restaurant recommendations?

Will be in these towns this month. Any recommendations for cafes, bistros, restaurants?
Am looking primarily for moderate or inexpensive places (say no more than $50-60) for 2 without wine. We might go for one splurge (which to us would be around $100) for a restaurant that has both good food and great charm. Thanks.
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Old Oct 1st, 2010, 02:48 PM
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Aix, rue Cardinale, Les Girasoles. A young couple cooking delicious local food in an unassuming space. We asked if they did a grand aioli as the former owners had; they didn't but they cooked it for us the next night anyway. Well within your price range. I hope they made it in this economy. I think we ate there three or four times on our last trip and enjoyed it all.

Cheap lunch. Nearby on the rue d'Italie, a bake shop that sells sandwiches, sorry don't know if I ever knew the name, but it is toward the Cour Mirabeau on the right side. They have a sandwich norvegienne which combines fresh and smoked salmon with sour cream and dill on a baguette that I can still taste. These may be common everywhere, but that is where I have eaten them when in Aix on a budget.

If I get a chance, I will get out my diaries and see what else I can turn up.
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Old Oct 1st, 2010, 03:51 PM
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add me to the list of enquiring minds!! Thanks to all who share ideas!!
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Old Oct 1st, 2010, 04:01 PM
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We spend 2 months vacationing in France most years - and we're foodies. One of the best dinners we've enjoyed in the last 5 years was at Pierre Reboul in Aix. We had an 11 course meal that was truly remarkable. For each course, there was about 3 things "happening" on the plate. A night to remember. We dined there this past June.

Stu Dudley
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Old Oct 1st, 2010, 04:11 PM
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PS - the 8 course meal (plus 3 extra courses) was 120E each. There are less expensive "fixed price" selections available.
http://www.restaurant-pierre-reboul.com/index.html

Stu Dudley
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Old Oct 1st, 2010, 05:09 PM
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We enjoyed La Maison Jaune in St. Remy. It is a one star so not too out of line pricewise: http://www.lamaisonjaune.info/saint_...elin_menus.htm


In general we like the tripadvisor reviews for restaurants-they are generally right on we find for France for most places.
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Old Oct 1st, 2010, 05:29 PM
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in Avignon, Cafe des Artiste
In Arles, L'Affenage

Aix, Les Deux Garcons
St Remy,Alain Assaud
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Old Oct 1st, 2010, 07:16 PM
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Gu et fils In Aix...We enjoyed this one while following the "Peter Mayle Trayle"...Gu is the handlebar mustachioed, friendly owner. Excellent, generous offerings at reasonable prices which will fit your budget. Situated at the start of Rue Mistral (one of the roads running at right angles to main street, Cours Mirabeau, Mediterranean cuisine served in surroundings entirely devoted to show biz stars and memorabilia.

Stu T.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2010, 03:46 AM
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Les Deux Garcons is probably the most famous cafe in Aix. It is on a busy corner near the top of the Cours.

It is not cheap, but the last time we were there, we plunked outselves down outside for a coffee, considering the prices fair for a place to rest and watch les becs fins and the jeunesse doree. After 35 minutes, we were well-rested and had not been approached by a waiter, so we wandered on, having enjoyed the view.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2010, 08:30 AM
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Hi MN,

from my trip report

*Le Maison Jaune* (www.lamaisonjaune.info/) Michelin 1*. A very nice place on 2 floors. Upstairs is a dining room and a deck. Unfortunately, the festivities drove us indoors. The decor is contemporary, the service is properly formal and professional. The food and wines are VVG -> XLNT House white for aperitif - VG Amuse bouche of fresh olives in garlic.

36E Menu Baby asparagus with various tropical fruits Lightly grilled Scotch salmon with olive oil, accompanied by white beans and other goodies Goat cheese with marmalades Pear William with fruits.

I didn't want pigeon, and they were out of chicken, so I was forced to have 66E Menu Thinly sliced, cured Scotch salmon with olive oil, topped with sliced smoked trout Carre d'agneau de Provence with grilled peppers, fava beans and lentils (XLNT) Plate de Fromage (6 kinds of local cheese) Marinated pear with a homemade ice cream lightly flavored with sage and various fruits - With coffee (little goodies) and a very nice Rose from Cassis - 160E.

*L'Oustalet Maianen* in Maillan - is a very pleasant room, modern yet warm, with excellent food and friendly professional service. It was Roberta's favorite. Fresh olives and some bread Amuse bouche of tomato mousse Menu - 26E Poached salmon and grilled sea bream w/veggies in a Balsamic reduction Housemade ice cream

Menu 34E Divers scallop with a pumpkin quennelle in a sauce of pumpkin oil and mint Grilled breast of wild duck in a forest mushroom sauce w/veggies Wine-poached pear w/ice cream. Wine, water, coffee (little goodies), etc. The food ranged from VVG to XLNT - 100E
Note: Just after we left, M Garino came running after us. We had been overcharged by 20E, and he had a 20E note, and a great deal of apologizing, for us.

*Grain de Sel* (http://www.graindesel-resto.com/anglais.php)

You can't not like this place. the decor is relatively modern and spare, but touches of New Orleans' brothel keep it from being cold. Mme Miriam is a first class cook.
Amuse bouche: Tuna salad w/toast

Roberta had the Bouillabaisse Provencal - 26E: A very generous dish of various fish and seafood in a stock flavored with white wine, cream and herbs, accompanied by rouille and toast. - She says that she doesn't care for bouillabaisse, but she left me hardly a taste.

I had the Special Salad built around duck - 29E The ingredients are available at the website. It was large, it was varied, it was excellent. With aperitif, wine, coffee, etc, - 100E

*La Gousse d'Ail* (www.la-goussedail.com/)
The merry-go-round in the back of the room adds a certain "je ne sais quoi".

27E menu Onion Tart and roast Guinea hen, Fruit soup with sorbet, Bouillabaisse with salad, Lemon tart with meringue

With 2 aperitif, a pichet of house wine, coffee and small glass of Marc - 90E Worth every eurocent.

* Cassolette * 53 Rue Carnot, is a very pleasant, upscale room with an outside terrace. Roberta went for the Provencal fish soup and "Grande Aioli", and I decided on the salad of duck served 3 ways and the Daub - 22E each.

The food was VVG, as was the service. The GA (http://www.epicurean.com/featured/gr...li-recipe.html ) was accompanied by a generous portion of fish and a couple of escargot. The Daue) (http://provence-cuisine.com/tag/provence-recipe/ ) was XLNT. My Lady Wife says that the Grand Aioli was worth the visit to St. Remy. Desserts were Lemon cake with whipped cream layers and a chestnut clafouti - both woth a sauce of creme anglais flavored with vanilla, cinnamon and lavender. The house rose was only so-so. OTOH, the /vin blanc de maison/ was quite pleasant, and the Vacqueyras (17E) was VVG. 80 E for a very nice dinner. NOTE: Cash Only.

Enjoy your visit.

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Old Oct 2nd, 2010, 12:00 PM
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Thanks all for your suggestions -- looks like we will eat well!
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Old Oct 2nd, 2010, 02:25 PM
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L'Oustalet Maianen in Maillane, gets my vote. I went there mainly to visit nearby The great Provencal poet Frederic Mistral. His home is now a museum.
La Gousse d'Ail-
they had jazz on some nights, don't know if they still do?
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Old Oct 2nd, 2010, 02:36 PM
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Bookmarked...great details. Thanks.

DaveMM
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Old Oct 3rd, 2010, 04:03 PM
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Hated La Maison Jaune in St. Remy June 2010. Please avoid -- I'd detailed horrible meal on another thread about a month ago. Overpriced and tasteless food.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2010, 04:28 PM
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I had one of the best meals in France on my visit to Avignon. We were walking down the main avenue towards the Palace of the Popes, when for some reason, we decided to visit the Coin Supermarket beneath the Mc Donalds. We went downstairs from MC D and were in a great supermarket with a fantastic deli section. We asked the man behind the counter if he would make us some sandwiches. He said YES, but we would have to go back upstairs to the bakery to buy bread. We did so, and returned. The gentleman constructed some great sandwiches for us, and we bought some wine in the wine section. We also purchased some inexpensive glasses. We then proceeded to the nearby carousel and just sat there, watching the carousel and people watching and enjoyed one of the greatest meals. We did not stand out because we weren't the only ones lugging sandwiches and eating them outdoors.
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Old Oct 4th, 2010, 01:18 AM
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We ate at l'Epicerie and had a great full plate of provincial specialties.
Our friends recommended Chez Francois but we could not go there (closed on sundays)
In Arles, our guide took us to L'Atelier de Rabanel and we loved it .
We were based in Saint Remy and often ate at Mirabeau, they have outstanding Beef Tartares ! the staff is nice and efficient !
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Old Oct 4th, 2010, 09:10 AM
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L'atelier is not inexpensive.
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