Auxerre
 

I just discovered that the main site in Auxerre, the Eglise St-Germain and its Carolingian crypt/frescoes, is closed on Tuesdays, which is the only day I planned to see the town as our first stop after leaving Paris. While I am definitely bummed about missing this, I'm not sure if it's worth re-arranging the rest of the schedule to have it fall on another day. (These random closures in France are causing me no end of frustration in the planning.)

The question is whether there are other aspects of Auxerre which would make it a pleasant visit anyway - the cathedral, the old quarter. I know there is the Tuesday market, which we might be able to catch if we get an early train from Paris.

Everything I can find about Auxerre primarily mentions St-Germain. Can anybody let me know what other things they like about the town? I originally planned to spend about half a day before moving on to overnight somewhere around Vezelay.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/auxerre This will give you the 'main sights'. Richard

Yes, Iris, thanks. I've been to websites like that in my research and, while they are certainly useful, they are also somewhat dry, objective and egalitarian. I am also hoping to receive a few personal, opinionated recommendations based on people's individual experiences. I get a better "feel" for a place that way. That's what I love about Fodors!

We based in Auxerre for 3 days and found plenty to do. Go to the tourist office an pick up a copy of the Cadet Roussel trail. Then follow the imbedded brass Cadet placques in the sidewalk. I'll post a link to some pictures for you

I just realized there are quite a few pictures from Vezelay along with the Auxerre pictures

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...hotos-_-Sharee

We didn't go to the two places you mentioned that will be closed on Tues - and we had a thoroughly enjoyable day there. We took the walk that avalon mentioned.

Stu Dudley

Ooh la la! Fabulous pics, Avalon. Thank you, thank you - what a difference such visuals can make. I have now recovered from my initial disappointment and am inspired to explore this lovely town (and Vezelay). The Auxerre tourist website does appear to be a good one and has several walks and even a downloadable audio guide.

We spent three days in Auxerre and found it very charming. We stayed at the Hotel Les Parcs de Marechaux which was about a 10 minute walk to the centre of town. The hotel was beautiful and inexpensive. If you look on the website, our was the red room with the canopy over the bed. It was huge and had three floor to ceiling glass doors that opened out onto the garden. Here's the website:

http://www.hotel-parcmarechaux.net/chambres.htm

We also had dinner at a very nice little restaurant called La P'tite Beursaude -- we liked it so much, we had dinner there both nights. Here's the Trip Advisor website for it:

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran..._Burgundy.html

Well, I saw the frescoes in the crypt, and it was one of the most moving things I've ever seen. I'd go to Auxerre again just for that, and can't imagine not seeing them if I were there.

If that's the town I'm thinking of, the locals pointed us to a bakery locally renowned for its "gougere". If they didn't go stale, I would have brought two cases of them back. Absolutely luscious. Just a side benefit of a trip there, of course, but not to be missed.

FYI, monuments and museums being closed in France is not "random." It is very very common and the case in most cities in France that things will be closed Tuesday, followed by Monday.

Sorry, Christine: I didn't mean random by French standards as I'm sure it makes sense after you've lived there awhile. I meant seemingly random in that so many places seemed to be closed on any given day of the week (Sundays, Mondays, Tuesdays, at least two hours for lunch every day, etc). The logicstics of that system are going to take some getting used to as few things are ever closed here in CA and one takes it for granted. Perhaps "random" was actually the wrong term. I was just expressing my frustration as to how it affects the planning process.

Oops, typo: "logistics."

One of my favorite French writers went to school in Auxerre when she was young but lived in the nearby village of
St Saveur-en-Puisaye where I visited her childhood home that has a plaque saying she was born there but it's a private residence now. My purpose was to visit the Colette museum
located in the village in a 17 century chateau. It was worth
my out of the way journey.

I really enjoyed visiting the crypts, it's a shame that you'll miss them. OTOH, you're only spending half a day in Auxerre so there's plenty enough to choose from for a few hours visit.

The farmers' market was a lot of fun. I went to the market at Place de l'Arquebuse on a Friday - don't know if that's also the Tuesday market. The cathedral is worth a visit, as is the central part of town. There's a nice bakery, Bon Pain de l'Auxerrois. And the walks are also enjoyable.

There's definitely plenty to do and see for half a day.

Wait till you roll up to a castle for a visit at a day/time they should be open, and ancounter a "fermeture exceptionnelle" sigh on the property. Closed for the day or afternoon or morning - no reason - just closed.

Stu Dudley

Stu, I like that you typed "sigh" instead of "sign."

That certainly sums up how I feel when that happens.

I spent 2 nights in Auxerre, with only one full day, and it wasn't enough! It's a charming, interesting city, and well worth your time. I agree, it's a shame you have to miss the St. Germain crypts, as they are fascinating. St. Etienne Cathedral also has very old crypts, and is quite interesting. Perhaps they are open on Tuesdays.

I stayed at the Hotel Normandie, which was quite nice, and a real bargain. I had wanted to stay at Les Parcs des Marechaux, but it was booked. The Normandie was quite adequate, and located on a perimeter road which was easy to find. Right across from the hotel is one of the best restaurants in Auxerre, Le Jardin Gourmadin, where I had a wonderful dinner - very pretty place, too. And don't miss Vezelay-spectacular!

Shanti - I intended to type "sign" - but now that you mention it - perhaps "sigh" is more appropriate. We now often call ahead to make sure that there is not a "today only" closure if we have to travel far to visit a chateau.

Stu Dudley