Autumn in Paris
Oct 23rd, 2014, 10:38 AM
#21
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TPAYT, I'll take that advice and do a tour to get the most out of it. Do you remember which company you used?
kerouac, I'm so thrilled to see this! A feast for the eyes, YES! That baby St Chapelle is too stunningly adorable.
DebitNM, if you like giant torpedoes & weaponry, the Musée national de la Marine is right across from it which we thought was a great museum too.
kerouac, I'm so thrilled to see this! A feast for the eyes, YES! That baby St Chapelle is too stunningly adorable.
DebitNM, if you like giant torpedoes & weaponry, the Musée national de la Marine is right across from it which we thought was a great museum too.
Oct 23rd, 2014, 03:53 PM
#23
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Reading and enjoying. I was in Paris from 10/1 - 10/7 and posted a sort of daily diary on Facebook, so may cobble it together as a trip report here. And ALWAYS enjoy reading the feelings, reactions, thoughts others experience in the city so many of us love and return to again and again.
Oct 23rd, 2014, 06:56 PM
#24
http://www.getyourguide.com/paris-l1...n-paris-t3633/
This is the tour we chose. Our guide was interesting, very well informed, and made our experience at the Opera Garnier a tour to remember. We chose a tour in English.
This is the tour we chose. Our guide was interesting, very well informed, and made our experience at the Opera Garnier a tour to remember. We chose a tour in English.
Oct 24th, 2014, 12:33 PM
#25
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the link, TPAYT. I will use them for our next trip.
cynthia, I was happy to read your comment. Yes please put your report together, I would totally love to read it.
To follow:
Père Lachaise Cemetery & the 20th arrondissement, day two.
cynthia, I was happy to read your comment. Yes please put your report together, I would totally love to read it.
To follow:
Père Lachaise Cemetery & the 20th arrondissement, day two.
Oct 28th, 2014, 05:00 PM
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
day two:
I was excited to use our leftover carnets from last trip which all turned out to be unusued but demagnetized. "Information" lady exchanged all 8 for crisp new tickets and we were on our way to Père Lachaise cemetary. This was a little weird for us at first, walking in the cemetery while on vacation in Paris, but soon one realizes why visitors make the time to come and explore this place. The land is vast and beautiful, tombs ranging from over a century old to someone as young as six years. It's solemn, visitors were respectful of the graves and some parts of the cemetery had great views of the city while some parts were just blissfully silent.
We walked by all sorts of different tombs, grand and towering mausoleums that contained remains of multi family members, and also walked by future plots for the living. Some of the mausoleum looked like the domes found on cathedrals with intricate designs, beautiful carving and engraving. Aside from the pounding cobblestones, it was very serene... grass everywhere, big leafy trees, even a large courtyard with tiled and flowered walls as tombs. Some lay rest vertically in a large, roomy enclave. We enjoyed some quiet time in this cemetery just wandering, reflecting, reading one unique tombstone after another. There was something romantic about the place.
Hours go by quickly and we set off to find Oscar Wilde. Globs of camera-taking fans made him easy to spot. We joined them. The sun was low and the light reflected on the glass surrounding him casting a warm glow. It was somber and calm, looking very different than the old photos and videos I've seen with people laughing and bending over to leave their lip marks all over his grave stone. Instead, they cleaned up the walls leaving only one wall with different shades of red kisses. Although he now keeps a distance from his admirers, the partition didn't stop fans from tossing flowers over the glass.
Hungry and tired, we decide to try a random nearby restaurant we found on TripAdvisor with great reviews. No number to call, walked there from the cemetery, closed. While there, we choose another random nearby restaurant with great reviews, no number to call, walked there, closed again! I forgot what day this was. Stomachs growling, we kept walking, passing an interesting bridge with ornate design on the top and graffiti on the side walls. A cone-headed, black haired, white faced lady was painted on the wall under the bridge.
Soon we find ourselves in a new neighborhood, Charonne, with no tourists. There were children playing on every block, teens just biking around with their friends, and men were drinking, laughing... chattering in French. It was delightful seeing Paris from another angle. On rue Saint-Blaise, we stopped next to St Germain-de-Charonne, a church along our walk. It was undergoing renovation and her bell rang uncontrollably, like 40 times, annoying the lights out of the locals who smirked as they walked past her. We stood in the middle of the sidewalk, just watching and listening until the ringing stopped, definitely your typical bonafide tourist. St Paul church by the apt was the same way, under renovation too, and we would laugh every time it went crazy.
Still in the 20th, we detoured into a pastry shop picking up a creamy caramel eclair and another flaky phyllo number with Bavarian cream & raisins, plus 1 sparkling & 1 still water bottles; total 2,50 {!} We plopped ourselves on the bench in front of the shop and observed the locals mingle with each other while eating our desserts. A nice family with children sat on the bench connected behind our ours. I thought to myself, this is so lovely discovering a new neighborhood with only locals. The lady behind me spoke beautiful French words to her daughter who was playing with another child. A few moments go by and we're ready to head back to tourist civilization. Apparently, so was Madame, as she reached for her child with one hand and unfolded a map with the other.
We gave La Cerise Sur la Pizza another try for dinner and this time it was open. Had a couple glasses of their house red and two pizzas -beef, parmesan & arugula; salmon, crème fraîche & tomatoes. We devoured everything! After a long satisfying outdoor meal, we got up like slugs and crossed the street towards Charlène Ramon, a hairsalon I spotted when Uber dropped us off the first night. Haircut price on the door was based on "short, med & long", 65 euros for my length...long. Last year's haircut was a great experience with Eli, a Lebanese hairstylist in the 7th, who gave me the best subtle back layers and he charged only half this price. I planned to return to him, timing it on the same day as Le Suffren, our sentimental dining spot down the street from him.
The next few days we would cross paths with Charlène's bright and pretty salon on our way out, or way home, and I would always peek through the glass windows and see her laughing with a client. And get this, there would always be a lovely water goblet next to one scrumptious macaron sitting on the counter for her guest! Part of me wanted to stay true to Eli whose cut I loved but Charlene's salon is looking too fun too resist!
I was excited to use our leftover carnets from last trip which all turned out to be unusued but demagnetized. "Information" lady exchanged all 8 for crisp new tickets and we were on our way to Père Lachaise cemetary. This was a little weird for us at first, walking in the cemetery while on vacation in Paris, but soon one realizes why visitors make the time to come and explore this place. The land is vast and beautiful, tombs ranging from over a century old to someone as young as six years. It's solemn, visitors were respectful of the graves and some parts of the cemetery had great views of the city while some parts were just blissfully silent.
We walked by all sorts of different tombs, grand and towering mausoleums that contained remains of multi family members, and also walked by future plots for the living. Some of the mausoleum looked like the domes found on cathedrals with intricate designs, beautiful carving and engraving. Aside from the pounding cobblestones, it was very serene... grass everywhere, big leafy trees, even a large courtyard with tiled and flowered walls as tombs. Some lay rest vertically in a large, roomy enclave. We enjoyed some quiet time in this cemetery just wandering, reflecting, reading one unique tombstone after another. There was something romantic about the place.
Hours go by quickly and we set off to find Oscar Wilde. Globs of camera-taking fans made him easy to spot. We joined them. The sun was low and the light reflected on the glass surrounding him casting a warm glow. It was somber and calm, looking very different than the old photos and videos I've seen with people laughing and bending over to leave their lip marks all over his grave stone. Instead, they cleaned up the walls leaving only one wall with different shades of red kisses. Although he now keeps a distance from his admirers, the partition didn't stop fans from tossing flowers over the glass.
Hungry and tired, we decide to try a random nearby restaurant we found on TripAdvisor with great reviews. No number to call, walked there from the cemetery, closed. While there, we choose another random nearby restaurant with great reviews, no number to call, walked there, closed again! I forgot what day this was. Stomachs growling, we kept walking, passing an interesting bridge with ornate design on the top and graffiti on the side walls. A cone-headed, black haired, white faced lady was painted on the wall under the bridge.
Soon we find ourselves in a new neighborhood, Charonne, with no tourists. There were children playing on every block, teens just biking around with their friends, and men were drinking, laughing... chattering in French. It was delightful seeing Paris from another angle. On rue Saint-Blaise, we stopped next to St Germain-de-Charonne, a church along our walk. It was undergoing renovation and her bell rang uncontrollably, like 40 times, annoying the lights out of the locals who smirked as they walked past her. We stood in the middle of the sidewalk, just watching and listening until the ringing stopped, definitely your typical bonafide tourist. St Paul church by the apt was the same way, under renovation too, and we would laugh every time it went crazy.
Still in the 20th, we detoured into a pastry shop picking up a creamy caramel eclair and another flaky phyllo number with Bavarian cream & raisins, plus 1 sparkling & 1 still water bottles; total 2,50 {!} We plopped ourselves on the bench in front of the shop and observed the locals mingle with each other while eating our desserts. A nice family with children sat on the bench connected behind our ours. I thought to myself, this is so lovely discovering a new neighborhood with only locals. The lady behind me spoke beautiful French words to her daughter who was playing with another child. A few moments go by and we're ready to head back to tourist civilization. Apparently, so was Madame, as she reached for her child with one hand and unfolded a map with the other.
We gave La Cerise Sur la Pizza another try for dinner and this time it was open. Had a couple glasses of their house red and two pizzas -beef, parmesan & arugula; salmon, crème fraîche & tomatoes. We devoured everything! After a long satisfying outdoor meal, we got up like slugs and crossed the street towards Charlène Ramon, a hairsalon I spotted when Uber dropped us off the first night. Haircut price on the door was based on "short, med & long", 65 euros for my length...long. Last year's haircut was a great experience with Eli, a Lebanese hairstylist in the 7th, who gave me the best subtle back layers and he charged only half this price. I planned to return to him, timing it on the same day as Le Suffren, our sentimental dining spot down the street from him.
The next few days we would cross paths with Charlène's bright and pretty salon on our way out, or way home, and I would always peek through the glass windows and see her laughing with a client. And get this, there would always be a lovely water goblet next to one scrumptious macaron sitting on the counter for her guest! Part of me wanted to stay true to Eli whose cut I loved but Charlene's salon is looking too fun too resist!
Oct 29th, 2014, 04:03 AM
#29
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just found out my husband got his vacation in March so look out Paris here we come again!!! Loving your trip report. Agree about Pere Lachaise and Oscar Wilde's monument. It is probably my favorite.
Oct 30th, 2014, 08:49 AM
#31
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Girl with the Red Suitcase...love your blog and photos, Ozgirl07. Thanks for reading and letting me know...I'll keep writing!
Irock, I hear Paris calling your name. March is just around the corner, so excited for you! Do you have a favorite neighborhood in Paris?
flpab, me too with the Marmottan, let me know when you finally go! Marmottan & Garnier are my must sees next trip. I was dying the first week with those 6 flights, not to mention the spiral "dizzying" factor when you're already buzzed. There were definitely a lot of laughing, eye rolling, sighing and mild cursing throughout the day lol
Irock, I hear Paris calling your name. March is just around the corner, so excited for you! Do you have a favorite neighborhood in Paris?
flpab, me too with the Marmottan, let me know when you finally go! Marmottan & Garnier are my must sees next trip. I was dying the first week with those 6 flights, not to mention the spiral "dizzying" factor when you're already buzzed. There were definitely a lot of laughing, eye rolling, sighing and mild cursing throughout the day lol
Nov 2nd, 2014, 10:18 PM
#32
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
day three:
Our only mission today was Amorino. I didn't care what else we did. I noticed Berthillon right away when we got to Ile St Louis and the terribly long line. One corner down and there was another Berthillon. Then another! what is going on?? I thought Berthillon was only in one spot. This area was really crowded, tourists taking pictures of pretty much everything -the walls, roofs, windows, streets, everything.
There were about 20 people ahead of us at Amorino so we agreed Codes will send out an important family email while standing in line, and I would check out the quaint stores he has no interest in. Went to two across from each other, very similar in products...leather bags, coats, pretty tops, scarves -they were not all great material, some were scratchy to the touch, 25-40 euro range. I hadn't gone "real" shopping in so long, always online, so it was a fun change touching all the pretty things.
Back at Amorino, 3,60 euros for the smallest cone and you can choose different flavors. They scoop it out with a sliver scraper and form it into a flower -a petal per sliver scoop. My flavors -cafe, noisette, pistache & hazelnut. You could request more like the Asian kid in front of me who wanted something ridiculous, like 10 flavors, and Amorino was so awesome they did it for him on the largest cone they had! Second year and counting, Amorino gets my vote for "THEE BEST AND MOST FUN GELATO SHOP IN PARIS" !
Went for a stroll licking and walking towards Shakespeare & Company, a small charming bookstore. Poor Hemingway was backed up against the corner suffocating from the dense group of tourists huddled over him. It was so crowded inside and very warm. We did a quick walk through on the bottom floor, then up the narrow two-way stairs, more dense people, then I noticed a small cubicle with a guy inside typing on his laptop. A room to the left on the second floor was holding a class. How could they breathe in there? This was too crowded for me so we took pictures near the glass floor downstairs that said "Feed the writers" {something like that?} then walked out. I told myself we would return before closing on another day to avoid the pack but that never happened.
We head towards the Latin Quarter and Codes ends up at a bar to go "pee" . Uhm hm. I know what this means. I walked inside Cote & Cote, like a Forever 21 across the street while he does his thing. As I'm walking out, I looked over and see him getting a beer and positioning himself to start watching the soccer game -Munich vs some other team where Munich won. I let him be and instead did more window shopping. Walked up and down the street until I got thirsty then went back to the bar to join him for a Stella. A bowl of guac & chips suddenly fell from the sky, he was really getting comfortable. Too oniony but the chips were delicious seasoned with cajun. He ordered whisky next. At that moment, he must've hit ultimate mush mode that it didn't matter if Paris or Antarctica was waiting outside, he wasn't going anywhere. It was as infectious as ebola bc we both sat there and did nothing for what seemed like forever.
Our only mission today was Amorino. I didn't care what else we did. I noticed Berthillon right away when we got to Ile St Louis and the terribly long line. One corner down and there was another Berthillon. Then another! what is going on?? I thought Berthillon was only in one spot. This area was really crowded, tourists taking pictures of pretty much everything -the walls, roofs, windows, streets, everything.
There were about 20 people ahead of us at Amorino so we agreed Codes will send out an important family email while standing in line, and I would check out the quaint stores he has no interest in. Went to two across from each other, very similar in products...leather bags, coats, pretty tops, scarves -they were not all great material, some were scratchy to the touch, 25-40 euro range. I hadn't gone "real" shopping in so long, always online, so it was a fun change touching all the pretty things.
Back at Amorino, 3,60 euros for the smallest cone and you can choose different flavors. They scoop it out with a sliver scraper and form it into a flower -a petal per sliver scoop. My flavors -cafe, noisette, pistache & hazelnut. You could request more like the Asian kid in front of me who wanted something ridiculous, like 10 flavors, and Amorino was so awesome they did it for him on the largest cone they had! Second year and counting, Amorino gets my vote for "THEE BEST AND MOST FUN GELATO SHOP IN PARIS" !
Went for a stroll licking and walking towards Shakespeare & Company, a small charming bookstore. Poor Hemingway was backed up against the corner suffocating from the dense group of tourists huddled over him. It was so crowded inside and very warm. We did a quick walk through on the bottom floor, then up the narrow two-way stairs, more dense people, then I noticed a small cubicle with a guy inside typing on his laptop. A room to the left on the second floor was holding a class. How could they breathe in there? This was too crowded for me so we took pictures near the glass floor downstairs that said "Feed the writers" {something like that?} then walked out. I told myself we would return before closing on another day to avoid the pack but that never happened.
We head towards the Latin Quarter and Codes ends up at a bar to go "pee" . Uhm hm. I know what this means. I walked inside Cote & Cote, like a Forever 21 across the street while he does his thing. As I'm walking out, I looked over and see him getting a beer and positioning himself to start watching the soccer game -Munich vs some other team where Munich won. I let him be and instead did more window shopping. Walked up and down the street until I got thirsty then went back to the bar to join him for a Stella. A bowl of guac & chips suddenly fell from the sky, he was really getting comfortable. Too oniony but the chips were delicious seasoned with cajun. He ordered whisky next. At that moment, he must've hit ultimate mush mode that it didn't matter if Paris or Antarctica was waiting outside, he wasn't going anywhere. It was as infectious as ebola bc we both sat there and did nothing for what seemed like forever.
Nov 2nd, 2014, 10:19 PM
#33
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It was all about lounging and walking today so we continued towards Quai des Grands Augustins and with his bionic eyes saw chefs sitting around a table clearly preparing for dinner, also taste testing, swirling and smelling.
Les Bouquinistes, Guy Savoy -sample from the menu stand:
pumpkin soup with mussels, hazelnuts & chestnuts
braised suckling pig
flavored mint-lime cucumber for dessert.
Yes, this place looked dope but we continued on, stumbling upon a triangular park across from La Rose de France, a nice cafe overlooking the rather quiet area. In the corner, men were playing Boules. We went inside a gallery near the cafe and here I found my favorite painting of the trip.
Bonjour Bonjour. The lady was with a patron so we asked if it's okay to look around and she says of course. Like a typical gallery, paintings were all over the walls, some bordering tacky bright colors while some were more muted and not as jarring. We liked the painting of a feline poised on a yellow leafy tree branch looking regal, but my favorite was on the farthest wall in the back room. At first glass the piece felt inexplicably familiar... a painting of a brown wooden house near a bridge with water running underneath it, calming flowers everywhere, wild healthy grass and trees surrounding the house. My notes said the painting was called "Bridge over the River Steylka" . I asked the woman, Steylka? Russia. I Googled it and cannot find River Steylka anywhere in Russia. Does it exist? 1530 euros for a messed up painting up close, yet hauntingly beautiful from afar -à la Monsieur Monet.
Outside by the park, the Palais de Justice building was turning orange. Sunset was glorious today! I can't help it, I just kept jumping up and down in joy.
More walking along the Seine on Quai de l'Horloge. I love all the bridges on the islands including one that's green. We passed book vendors and a group of three -an older gent with two women pointing across the street all excited. I looked over and it was the brown doors of "La Cuisine Paris". I took a picture of the cooking school facade when I really should have taken a picture of them. They could be fodorites.
I really loved today. We found a lovely pathway around rue des Barres and rue du Grenier, to the left side of restaurant Chez Julien if you have your back to the Seine. It was a tranquil gateway to more narrow streets that I love. A nun in her blue gown walked out of a church nearby and you know you're in a magical place when seeing something like that makes you so happy. I moved surprisingly quick capturing the moment with my camera which now feels very paparazzi ish but I couldn't help myself.
More walking on rue du Pont Louis-Philippe and my eyes land on the red door of a Japanese shop & gallery with scarves on display; loved a whimsical olive green and blush contrast wrap twirled by the window, 330 euros. They had other artisan accessories & jewelry that looked unique, too bad they were already closed. {iki galerie -18 rue du pont Louis-Philippe, 75004 Paris}
Our walk for the day was coming to an end finishing off on rue St Antoine at
Julien de Savignac for zee besst jarred terrine and a chilled bottle of Mirabelle to accompany what I counted to be 8 different cheeses in our fridge!
Les Bouquinistes, Guy Savoy -sample from the menu stand:
pumpkin soup with mussels, hazelnuts & chestnuts
braised suckling pig
flavored mint-lime cucumber for dessert.
Yes, this place looked dope but we continued on, stumbling upon a triangular park across from La Rose de France, a nice cafe overlooking the rather quiet area. In the corner, men were playing Boules. We went inside a gallery near the cafe and here I found my favorite painting of the trip.
Bonjour Bonjour. The lady was with a patron so we asked if it's okay to look around and she says of course. Like a typical gallery, paintings were all over the walls, some bordering tacky bright colors while some were more muted and not as jarring. We liked the painting of a feline poised on a yellow leafy tree branch looking regal, but my favorite was on the farthest wall in the back room. At first glass the piece felt inexplicably familiar... a painting of a brown wooden house near a bridge with water running underneath it, calming flowers everywhere, wild healthy grass and trees surrounding the house. My notes said the painting was called "Bridge over the River Steylka" . I asked the woman, Steylka? Russia. I Googled it and cannot find River Steylka anywhere in Russia. Does it exist? 1530 euros for a messed up painting up close, yet hauntingly beautiful from afar -à la Monsieur Monet.
Outside by the park, the Palais de Justice building was turning orange. Sunset was glorious today! I can't help it, I just kept jumping up and down in joy.
More walking along the Seine on Quai de l'Horloge. I love all the bridges on the islands including one that's green. We passed book vendors and a group of three -an older gent with two women pointing across the street all excited. I looked over and it was the brown doors of "La Cuisine Paris". I took a picture of the cooking school facade when I really should have taken a picture of them. They could be fodorites.
I really loved today. We found a lovely pathway around rue des Barres and rue du Grenier, to the left side of restaurant Chez Julien if you have your back to the Seine. It was a tranquil gateway to more narrow streets that I love. A nun in her blue gown walked out of a church nearby and you know you're in a magical place when seeing something like that makes you so happy. I moved surprisingly quick capturing the moment with my camera which now feels very paparazzi ish but I couldn't help myself.
More walking on rue du Pont Louis-Philippe and my eyes land on the red door of a Japanese shop & gallery with scarves on display; loved a whimsical olive green and blush contrast wrap twirled by the window, 330 euros. They had other artisan accessories & jewelry that looked unique, too bad they were already closed. {iki galerie -18 rue du pont Louis-Philippe, 75004 Paris}
Our walk for the day was coming to an end finishing off on rue St Antoine at
Julien de Savignac for zee besst jarred terrine and a chilled bottle of Mirabelle to accompany what I counted to be 8 different cheeses in our fridge!
Nov 3rd, 2014, 04:30 AM
#34
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We love the 15th. My friend has an apartment there and we sometimes stay there. We rented an apartment last year very near Notre Dame and we much prefer the 15th. Very much a non touristy feel. We can't wait for March. I am hoping to seriously look at buying plane tickets in the next few weeks. I agree about Amorino gelato! The best!
Nov 10th, 2014, 10:27 AM
#39
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lrock5, did you buy your ticket?? I will have to check out the 15th.
powhatangal & Ozgirl07, thank you for your comments and for following along my very slow trip report. I'll finish eventually!
travlintoes! Are you my long lost fodor's twin?
baglady, since you're leaving in a month {lucky!}, I'm fast forwarding to haircut day for you.
sometime around week two:
The mental battle between going back to Eli, the Lebanese hairstylist in the 7th, versus Charlène Ramon, the sparkling salon down the street has come to an end. I was done walking back and forth peeking in and seeing all the good stuff. I wanted in on the fun so the choice was, ta da! Charlène Ramon.
I called in the morning to make an appointment. Major difficulty communicating so we walked to her salon on our way to lunch and made the appointment in person. As soon as we entered, I noticed how bright it was, spacious, modern and clean. Charlène was all smiles and asked how she could help us. She spoke very little English but enough to get by. I couldn't stop looking at her haircut and salmon lipstick. Her hair was about shoulder length with blunt blonde layers that softly framed her face. She reminded me of a movie angel...like if a director were to cast a chic angel in a movie, her look would fit the part. I was asked to come ten minutes before my 6pm appointment for shampoo.
For lunch we went to L'As Du Fallafel on rue des Rosiers in the Marais. Too stuffed to finish my own lamb shawarma and shared fries. This whole week we had a sodium kick where everywhere we went we would order a side of frites. We made our way to the Conciergerie to use our six day museum pass but they were closed until October according to one of the guards by the gate. We return to St Chapelle instead. There was a short line to get through security but it was quick.
We knew the way up now unlike the first visit when we didn't know where the stained glass was; we thought the gift shop on the first floor was it. We grinned at each other like a couple of veterans ascending the steps. The blend of colors inside the chapel was surreal. It was a remarkable sight even with just half of her goods on display. I went outside, same floor, and gazed up at the sculptures on the walls and over the arch. Codes was inside. He seemed to have a lot of prayers today. We can't wait till the scaffolding is off and see the other half in 2015.
We noticed some lounge chairs by the Seine on our stroll back to Village St Paul. We had 30 minutes to spare before my haircut appointment so we followed the slope down and sat looking out on the river. I don't think either one of us said a word. Bliss.
Charlène Ramon's salon is across from the blue doors of the jewelry store, Bijoux Blues, on rue St Paul. Charlène's right hand, Chloe, asked me to sit on the large shampoo chair and gave me a light scalp massage while conditioning my hair. Aaaaaa. This was an excellent decision!! Not a very long massage but good enough to feel relaxed.
Charlène was just a pleasure to be around, so cheerful and engaging. I told her to cut my hair however way she wanted but no bangs. The only thing she asked was, "You want very Parisienne?" shrugging her shoulders ever so carefree. I wanted to say, I want whatever you're on, but didn't know how to say that in French so a simple qui sufficed. With her broken English, my struggling French, and a whole lot of gesturing, we managed to chat about life, her husband, my boyfriend, kids & France. She said her hubby wants to visit the Grand Canyon while she'd rather go to NYC. They end up at Paris Disneyland for the kids...c'est la vie.
She got to work, pacing to my left -snip snip, pacing to my right -snip snip. I saw Chloe's catatonic reflection on the mirror, mouth open, staring down at the 8 inches of hair that kept falling on the floor. She smiled quickly when we caught eye. Charlène's cut was precisely imprecise; you could tell she's confident in what she does and seemed excited while working so it was a good vibe. A car rolled by next to our window and it was her husband and two kids waving to their mama, so sweet!
Then the sweeter moment came, "You want a macaron?" I wanted to exclaim, hell to the yeah!!..but I composed myself, smiled and replied, qui! Of course it came with the pretty water goblet and the macaron was a green pistachio. Usually when I walk in a salon, I know exactly what I want and walk out with the cut I came for. Today was different. Sometimes hairstylists are like chefs...they need free rein to shine at their best and boy did she ever! My cut was just like hers but with a straight back, soft layers around my face and the tips danced around my shoulders. It's been a while since I had a short hair cut and I loved it -fresh, unfussy, and my head felt lighter. She does color & highlights too.
We were having too much fun that she offered to touch up my make up while waiting for Codes to pick me up for dinner. I was unsure at first not knowing how much that would be but she was quick to say it's free. Originally from Lille where she has {had?} a spa, she's an all around artist. She turned my nude make up to a smokey eye, swept peachy blush on my cheeks and lathered va va voom gloss all over my lips.
Happy with her masterpiece, she turned to me, swung her hands to the heavens and exclaimed, "Now he will propose!"
Charlene Ramon
35 rue Saint-Paul
75004 Paris
Tél : 01 44 61 43 27
powhatangal & Ozgirl07, thank you for your comments and for following along my very slow trip report. I'll finish eventually!
travlintoes! Are you my long lost fodor's twin?
baglady, since you're leaving in a month {lucky!}, I'm fast forwarding to haircut day for you.
sometime around week two:
The mental battle between going back to Eli, the Lebanese hairstylist in the 7th, versus Charlène Ramon, the sparkling salon down the street has come to an end. I was done walking back and forth peeking in and seeing all the good stuff. I wanted in on the fun so the choice was, ta da! Charlène Ramon.
I called in the morning to make an appointment. Major difficulty communicating so we walked to her salon on our way to lunch and made the appointment in person. As soon as we entered, I noticed how bright it was, spacious, modern and clean. Charlène was all smiles and asked how she could help us. She spoke very little English but enough to get by. I couldn't stop looking at her haircut and salmon lipstick. Her hair was about shoulder length with blunt blonde layers that softly framed her face. She reminded me of a movie angel...like if a director were to cast a chic angel in a movie, her look would fit the part. I was asked to come ten minutes before my 6pm appointment for shampoo.
For lunch we went to L'As Du Fallafel on rue des Rosiers in the Marais. Too stuffed to finish my own lamb shawarma and shared fries. This whole week we had a sodium kick where everywhere we went we would order a side of frites. We made our way to the Conciergerie to use our six day museum pass but they were closed until October according to one of the guards by the gate. We return to St Chapelle instead. There was a short line to get through security but it was quick.
We knew the way up now unlike the first visit when we didn't know where the stained glass was; we thought the gift shop on the first floor was it. We grinned at each other like a couple of veterans ascending the steps. The blend of colors inside the chapel was surreal. It was a remarkable sight even with just half of her goods on display. I went outside, same floor, and gazed up at the sculptures on the walls and over the arch. Codes was inside. He seemed to have a lot of prayers today. We can't wait till the scaffolding is off and see the other half in 2015.
We noticed some lounge chairs by the Seine on our stroll back to Village St Paul. We had 30 minutes to spare before my haircut appointment so we followed the slope down and sat looking out on the river. I don't think either one of us said a word. Bliss.
Charlène Ramon's salon is across from the blue doors of the jewelry store, Bijoux Blues, on rue St Paul. Charlène's right hand, Chloe, asked me to sit on the large shampoo chair and gave me a light scalp massage while conditioning my hair. Aaaaaa. This was an excellent decision!! Not a very long massage but good enough to feel relaxed.
Charlène was just a pleasure to be around, so cheerful and engaging. I told her to cut my hair however way she wanted but no bangs. The only thing she asked was, "You want very Parisienne?" shrugging her shoulders ever so carefree. I wanted to say, I want whatever you're on, but didn't know how to say that in French so a simple qui sufficed. With her broken English, my struggling French, and a whole lot of gesturing, we managed to chat about life, her husband, my boyfriend, kids & France. She said her hubby wants to visit the Grand Canyon while she'd rather go to NYC. They end up at Paris Disneyland for the kids...c'est la vie.
She got to work, pacing to my left -snip snip, pacing to my right -snip snip. I saw Chloe's catatonic reflection on the mirror, mouth open, staring down at the 8 inches of hair that kept falling on the floor. She smiled quickly when we caught eye. Charlène's cut was precisely imprecise; you could tell she's confident in what she does and seemed excited while working so it was a good vibe. A car rolled by next to our window and it was her husband and two kids waving to their mama, so sweet!
Then the sweeter moment came, "You want a macaron?" I wanted to exclaim, hell to the yeah!!..but I composed myself, smiled and replied, qui! Of course it came with the pretty water goblet and the macaron was a green pistachio. Usually when I walk in a salon, I know exactly what I want and walk out with the cut I came for. Today was different. Sometimes hairstylists are like chefs...they need free rein to shine at their best and boy did she ever! My cut was just like hers but with a straight back, soft layers around my face and the tips danced around my shoulders. It's been a while since I had a short hair cut and I loved it -fresh, unfussy, and my head felt lighter. She does color & highlights too.
We were having too much fun that she offered to touch up my make up while waiting for Codes to pick me up for dinner. I was unsure at first not knowing how much that would be but she was quick to say it's free. Originally from Lille where she has {had?} a spa, she's an all around artist. She turned my nude make up to a smokey eye, swept peachy blush on my cheeks and lathered va va voom gloss all over my lips.
Happy with her masterpiece, she turned to me, swung her hands to the heavens and exclaimed, "Now he will propose!"
Charlene Ramon
35 rue Saint-Paul
75004 Paris
Tél : 01 44 61 43 27
Nov 10th, 2014, 10:57 AM
#40
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love it! On our very first time to Paris in 2006, my curling iron would not work. I was so upset. I kept telling my husband I needed to go to one of the beauty shops we saw and he kept telling me to go ahead. I never got up the nerve. I ended up using hair spray and the crazy blow dryer in our hotel to try to fix it somewhat! I really wish I would have went on that trip.
Yep- bought tickets this weekend. This is trip #9 for us and we are just as happy as the first time we went. We both love Paris!!!!
Yep- bought tickets this weekend. This is trip #9 for us and we are just as happy as the first time we went. We both love Paris!!!!
