Austria Trip
 

Good Afternoon All
Well we just returned from 8 days in Switzerland and Austria, and I haven't fully recovered yet, so if some of this seems a little disjointed - please forgive.
We made the same mistake we always do (some people never learn) - that is trying to cover too much territory in too short of a time. You will understand what I mean shortly.
Friday (19th), left DFW, arriving in Zurich Saturday morning around 8. Downstairs to the train, and 45 minutes or so later - first stop Lucerne. Our intent was to experience Mt. Pilatus and the "Golden Round Trip". This "roundtrip" includes a short bus ride to the 4-person cable cars which will take one half-way up the mountain. Get off halfway up, and get on a 30 person Gondola to the peak. The return trip involves a cogwheel train coming down the other side at a 48 degree angle. After the descent a short train ride gets one back into Lucerne. Now this can be done either way - cogwheel train first or cable car first. We wanted a clear day, and Saturday was only intermittantly clear. Afraid that Sunday would be worse, we went up the cable cars Saturday. Now understand this is following an 11 hour all-night flight, and an hour on the train to Lucerne. About the time we were out of the cable car chute, the sun went away, and it started snowing. By the time we got to the end of the ride, the wind was blowing, and the cable cars were swaying in the wind. At this point it might clear things up if I told you that I am not good with heights if it isn't in an airplane. The wind was howling around these "tiny little" cable cars several hundred feet in the air. Couldn't see the scenery for the blizzard. Well- did make it to the end only to find that the Gondola portion of the trip had been temporarily suspended due to the wind. We spent a couple of hours in the little restaurant there doing the fondue and wine thing waiting for the wind to die down. Eventually the gondola/cable car staff came in the restaurant and said that not only was the wind not abating, but it was actually getting stronger and we needed to get the hell off the mountain. So back into the cable cars for the trip down. I wasn't as nervous going down in spite of the deteriorating weather. I think a couple of bottles of Merlot may have contributed to my increased appreciation of blizzard conditions. That Pilatus attempt was aborted due to weather. Due to lack of sleep, etc., we explored Lucerne and turned in early the first nite. Incidentally, the Hotel Wilden Mann was absolutely incredible! Would definitely stay there again.
Next morning, we were met by a beautiful, clear, and very sunny day. This time we decided that if the weather suddenly deteriorated later in the morning, we at least wanted to be on top of the mountain. (At this point, that logic seems a little fuzzy - but nevertheless.) So we went up the other way on the cogwheel train. Man when they say 48 degrees - they mean it. We made it to the top just fine. Clear, very cold, and rather windy. I won't even try to describe the panorama. Maybe some of you folks that live in Colorado or in other mountainous locales, won't be impressed, but to a Texan - it was absolutely breathtaking. I have never seen such natural beauty in my life. That made the entire trip worth it. We hung around on top for an hour or two and visited the Xmas markets there, did the Punsch thing (what in the world is in that stuff???), and eventually it was time to come down. Remember my thing about heights? I knew what to expect on the cable cars, but the Gondola was something else. (I've been watching Fear Factor to get up my courage). Getting on the Gondola is no problem since one does it in a little building. However, as soon as it starts, one goes from the security of that little building to several thousand feet in the air. Holy S***!! I didn't wet my pants, but it's the closest I have been to it since I was two! Mercifully that only lasted for 15 seconds or so and then one is literally overwhelmed by the spectacular scenery. I got so involved I actually hated for it to end. Rest of the trip down the mountain was on the Cable cars again, only this time a beautiful day. For those of you who love mountain scenery, don't miss this. The entire trip is about 45E, but due to the Xmas markets that weekend, they were running a 26E special. Words can't describe the panoramic beauty of it. Well worth the price. Back to the hotel, collect our luggage, and go to the train station. Next stop Garmisch, Germany - or so we thought.
Due to time constraints, I am going to have to do this in installments. I'll be back tomorrow.
Shrink

"Next stop Garmisch, Germany - or so we thought" . . . ?

I can't wait for the next installment.

Please use paragraphs for the geezers.

Hello Again
The first stop after leaving the hotel was the Lucerne Bahnhof. Prior to leaving the US I had compared point to point train tickets with a Eurail pass, and hands down it was cheaper to buy tickets each time we got on the train. We told the guy at the ticket booth we wanted to go to Garmisch - and basically he said that we couldn't get there from here. It was mid afternoon, and we wouldn't have time to get there that day. It was like a 7 or 8 hour trip according to him. That was too much so we elected for a place about half way. After consulting a map we decided on Bregenz Austria.
Bregenz is a small border town on the banks of the Bodensee (sp?). To get there we would need to go back to Zurich and change trains there. He provided us with a through ticket and instructions to go to Track 22 in Zurich for the train to Bregenz. Great, and an hour or so later we arrived in Zurich. It was a close connection so we went immediately to Track 22. Guess what -- there was no train on track 22. The little electronic sign over Track 22 said "See Information". Big help! I left everyone on the track, went back into the station, and all ticket people had gone home. Only machines to sell tickets -- again no help. I returned to Track 22. Still no train -- but the train on track 21 was getting ready to leave. It had Innsbruck on it. Well it was either going to Innsbruck or coming from it -- we weren't sure, but it sure beat standing around in the cold, so we got on it having no idea where it was going.
About 30 minutes out of Zurich, here comes the conductor. You should have seen the expression on his face when we showed him our tickets. "This train no go to Bregenz". At that point, I reasoned it was better to feign stupidity (which as you can tell really isn't hard for me), than to admit that we knowingly got on the wrong train. In spite of the fact that he had no sense of humor, he did tear out a page of his schedule showing the stops it made, and sure enough - it didn't go to Bregenz. He did point out that we could get off in a place called Buschs (or something like that) and change trains there. We agreed although we really had no intention of doing it. We decided to get off at the first town that looked decent - and Buschs didn't. A couple of stops later we got off in Bludenz.
Its about 9 at nite, and we are dragging our luggage down the street looking for a hotel. We took the first one we came to and it was a very small,quaint little place, run by a little German lady named Hildy. We managed to get checked in, eat and go to bed.
Next morning we woke in a beautiful little town. Sun shining, beautiful mountains all around. In addition to being known for skiing, if you go on to Google and enter Bludenz, you will find that the town is known for two things: Chocolate and Hookers. I wont belabor this point and mention it only for those of you who love Chocolate. Explored some of the local scenes around that quaint little town, and caught a noon train to Innsbruck en route to Garmisch (remember the original goal)?
Spent most of the afternoon wandering around Innsbruck after cramming 800 lbs of luggage into Bahnhof lockers. Went to the Golden Adler - the restaurant where Mozart used to hang, and messed around the Xmas markets until early evening when it was time to get on the train for Garmisch.
Garmisch is about a 2 hour ride from Innsbruck, on a not-so-good train. Rather loud - you know the kind where the doors between the cars wont stay shut. Well about 1:45 into the trip, the guy comes on the intercom and says "next stop Garmisch" - or something like that. We get up, get all of our stuff, stand by the door and when the train stops we get off.
Now in our defense please understand that after a bottle or two of very good wine, a loud train, and considering that none of us speak a word of German, its easy to misunderstand an intercom. The words were not "Next stop Garmisch" -- As it turns out they were "Next stop Snarnitz" Standing on the track we realized that when we saw the only sign, and we watched out train go off in the distance.
Its about 9PM, and the train station is closed and dark. At that moment we realized that Snarnitz is really German for Bumf***! Needless to say, at that time, I was not the most popular kid on the block. The only thing that saved me from getting a severe beating from my wife was that she would have had to take her hands out of her pockets to do it! The only sign of life was a honky tonk down the street about a half a block. We dragged the luggage down the street, and managed to get the bar owner to call a Taxi for us. An hour and 35E later, we made it to Garmisch, and to the hotel.
A friend who lives in Garmisch, toured us around the following day. This was the only day that the weather didn't cooperate. In spite of that we visited a couple of Castles - which like everything else were absolutely awe-inspiring. Italian food there at a wonderful little restaurant topped off the perfect day.
The following afternoon we set out for Salzburg. Our intent was to go back to Innsbruck and then over, but the ticket guy at the station said that it would be 180E for all 4 of us to do that, or we could go through Munich for a total of 22E. We opted for Munich, and arrived in Salzburg that evening in a pouring rain.
All the crisis is now pretty much over and we only have Salzburg and Vienna to live through. Again - time being what it is, I will finish this thing tomorrow.
Shrink

Waiting with bated breath for the ending to this tale. . .
:-)

I second Jolie's remarks as this thread is HILARIOUS !!! Mike

Hi Again
This is the last installment - I promise!
We arrived in Salzburg pretty much on time. By this time we had grown pretty accustom to misery, so running through the rain to the covered areas of the train station in Salzburg was nothing. In the interest of brevity and decency I am going to skip the train station restroom fiasco, and move on to the hotel. Salzburg hotel is the Wolf-Dietrich, and while a little pricey, I believe is well worth the money. It is wonderfully located near "old town" and all its wonders. We checked in and went around the corner to a lovely restaurant (whose name unfortunately escapes me).
The next morning we awoke to a beautiful day in Salzburg. Geesch- thats a beautiful city. We did the usual touristy things of visiting Mozart's birthplace, and various other places of interest in the town. Actually that day was the most relaxed thus far of the trip. Made reservations and attended a Mozart concert that evening by an ensemble that was absolutely breathtaking. I love classical music - but adore it when you are up close and personal to the musicians. After the concert we wandered around the streets some looking for a place to eat. Finally found this quaint little Italian place.
Next day about 11 - on to Vienna. Actually I didn't realize that Vienna was as big as it is. Our hotel was across the street from the Bahnhof. Actually, I think this might be a good idea for future trips. Hotel Mercure Westbahnhof. Again very good accomodations.
Travel in Vienna is by subway. Now I don't have trouble with subways after I get on a few going the wrong way, I eventually get a handle on it. The system in Vienna appears to be very comprehensive and efficient. The only issue with subways for us is the fact that my daughter gets very motion sick, very quickly on one. It is the only mode of transportation that affects her this way. Something about the movement or inability to focus on far-away scenery. Closing her eyes doesn't seem to help. Anyone with any tips for this malady would really be appreciated.
So the majority of our travel around Vienna was on the streetcars and taxis. Again did some tourist things like visiting Freud's offices. Surprise-surprise. Actually, that was a little disappointing to me, since most of his stuff is in London evidently. At any rate, I think 6E is a little overpriced for what is there - but it was nevertheless interesting.
The highlight of the trip - that evening was the Xmas markets. This one was out in the Rathaus area (I think that is spelled correctly). It is in front of a huge, beautiful cathedral which is lighted for the holidays. I must tell you, The whole scene was magnificant! We wandered around the little stalls for a couple of hours and in the process consumed a couple of mugs of Punsch. Man -- I don't know what is in that stuff but it will sure warm you up. Also tends to blur your vision and judgement. For example, I now have a $50 (40E) Christmas ornament! It sure is beautiful though.
Upon leaving there we walked across the street and had dinner in an 150 year-old reataurant. Landamenns - or something like that. Wound up the evening with a good bottle of Cab and retired early.
Our last day in Vienna was spent in wandering around, visiting museums, and taking pictures. Someone suggested that we go on a city tour. This was a major disappointment. Don't recommend it. Certainly isn't worth the price. Late in the afternoon we wound up in the area of the Opera. There is a Galleria there which wife and daughter spent 3 hours and I don't know how much money in. Son-in-law and I wandered down the plaza toward the center of old town where they have one of the most magnificant cathedrals I have ever seen. We went in and it is absolutely comparable to Notre Dame. Almost next door was a casino. Didn't take long to leave there.
Another wonderful restaurant for the evening meal before retiring to the hotel. Up at 4 to catch a flight out of Vienna back to Zurich. Take off from Zurich at 10:30AM. Twelve hours later we land in Dallas, tired and happy.
Several things I realized that I need to do. One is probably keep a journal as these trips are happening so I can remember the names of places and restaurants etc. Truth is, I get almost overwhelmed and immersed in a place, that I forget to record it, and wind up, like now, trying to do it from memory.
But I do know one thing -- Most of you have traveled more than we have, most of you are more serious about your travels, and all of you travel lighter than we do, but I dont believe anyone has any more fun than we do. In spite of "those moments" upon reflection they seem to add the spice to a trip. I wouldn't change a thing.
So much for Austria for now. In 3 weeks (the 17th) we leave for San Juan and a 7 day Carribean cruise. This is the first cruise for my wife. I keep telling her -- "we are on a boat - what could possibly go wrong??"
Shrink

Shrink, your trip report was great and it really does sound like you had a lot of fun!

For future reference, the Christmas Market in Vienna was probably in front of the Rathaus itself. At least it was when I lived there. And, the cathedral you and your son-in-law went to was St. Stephen's. It really is awsome, isn't it?

What a fun report, thoroughly enjoyable! I bet you do have fun---you have a great sense of humor and adventure about your travels.

What a perfect description of the Mt. Pilatus trip. It remains one of my highlights after 40 years of travel.

I too experienced the thrill of getting into the cable car in the little building and then the next second being suspended hundreds of feet in the air! One other thrill I didn't experience (but the people facing the other direction did) was the car starting to sway as we went by the first pylon. It was good for a few screams!.

This last summer we went on the Mt. Washington cog railway - almost as steep, but using a more antique engine. Mt. Washington does have the added feature of the railcars being mooned by the hikers!