Athens and Istanbul..first timers
 

My husband and I plan to arrive in Athens the middle of May'99 three days before taking a cruise to a few of the islands, then on to Istanbul. As part of the cruise "package", we are to stay at the SAS (Swiss Air hotel) in Athens and the Ciragan Palace in Istanbul. We don't HAVE to stay at either place and after reading comments in the Forum about the Ayasofia Pansiyons and Empress Zoe in Istanbul and Grande Bretagne <BR>and Electra Palace in Athens, we may ask for a substitute. Not having been to any of the mentioned hotels, We are wondering what to do. <BR>Also, we would like to rent a car(?) in Athens and take a day trip to Corinth, Mycenae and on around the small circle to Epidauros and back to Athens. Is this doable <BR>in 10 or 12 hours? <BR>We would also like to make a day trip from Istanbul, but have no idea which direction to head for. <BR>And,last, but not least, where are some local eatries that tourists don't know about? <BR>I think I know where the fine dining can be found, but havn't heard much about the other. <BR>Thanks for any suggestions. <BR>D. Estes <BR>

Dianne-- If you can afford it, and if Syndagma Square is back to being a park instead of a subway construction site, the Grande Bretagne is THE hotel in Athens. It's like staying at the Plaza in New York (especially when you pay the bill.) Any hotel at or near Syndagma will put you in the heart of the city. <BR>If you go trinket-shopping in Plaka, try to get all the way up the hill to the taverna called something like O Yeros tis Moreas. I'm not sure I have the name quite right. In English it means the old man from the Peloponnese. It's still touristy, but the food is authentic Greek. <BR>Off the tourist track, Exarchion Square is not too far from the Archaeological Museum (which you must see, if you want to go to Mycenae.) Exarchion is the big student hang out, full of outdoor cafes. To do it right, wear black, order a "kafes frappé" (whipped, iced coffee) and sip it very slooowwly, while reading the typos in the Athens Daily News. Then, go around the corner to Rosalia's taverna. Ignore the main courses, and make your whole dinner from lots of different "orektika" (starters.) Try ouzo, as the Greeks drink it-- watered down and with food. Stay away from bottled retsina. (If you can get it from a barrel treated on the premises, that's different.) <BR>Your plan for driving in the Peloponnese is doable. In Mykenai (the town of Mycenae) look for the taverna called the Belle Helene (also has a sign, House of Schliemann.) It's the same place Schliemann stayed when he excavated Agamemnon's tomb, and is still run by the same family. Their mementos are fascinating. <BR>I could go on and on, but I think I already have. Anyway, kalo taxidi! Martha <BR> <BR>

Dianne, <BR> <BR>Here you can find lodging in Istanbul: www.istanbulhotels.com. Nice trip. <BR>

Your Greek day-trip is "do-able" in that you can probably drive to all of those places in one day. But your stops will be short and your travelling will be rushed. We took a bus to Corinth for one day and to Epidaurus/Mycenae on another day; both trips were relaxed but we did not dawdle at any place. You may want to decide which site you LEAST want to visit, and plan on going to that LAST. Then, if the first two sites take up more of your time than you expected, shrug off that last site. <BR> <BR>BTW, driving in Athens will be an absolute nightmare; it's has some of the worst traffic in Europe. If you are prepared to face this, you may want to re-think using a car to see these sites. <BR> <BR>As for day trips from Istanbul, you may not need to leave this city. It has some absolutely superb museums, mosques, and churches; not to mention incredible open markets (with VERY persistent vendors). I don't know how much time you've alloted to Istanbul, but I'll bet it's less than you'll need!

We Just got back from Athens & the islands, which is why im online at 5:00am! We loved Greece. <BR>Do stay in the Plaka in Athens(you can walk to Acropolis, shopping, cafes). <BR>We stayed at the Electra Palace in a suite with a huge marble balcony looking over the Acropolis. It cost 187$ per night!(you can get a double for 150$). <BR>Dont rent a car in Athens. Traffic is a nightmare, Greeks drive fast & wild. <BR>If your hotel is outside the Plaka area, <BR>you will have to hail a cab to get anywhere. Enjoy!

Hey BG <BR> <BR>I'm pleased you had a great time in Greece. I too returned from Athens and Mykonos last night and if anyone needs any information let me know and I'd be happy to help. <BR> <BR>Bill

Hey Bill Barr, <BR>We probably were on the taxi line(mykonos) with you at some point! <BR>Comparing notes: <BR>1)fav beach - Elias <BR>2 fav sunset - Veranda <BR>3) fav food - big shrimp(only fresh) <BR>4)best transportation - bus! <BR>>>>>please add your favorites.....BG <BR>

<BR>leaving tomorrow 9/16 for athens,then cruising the greek isles and istanbul. we are staying at the grande bretagne. it is supposed to be fantastic. aboute $35 per night more than the electra palace. anyone else stayed there? The ciraghan palace is another great hotel from what i have learned, but very expensive. look inot the Hotel Divan in Istanbul at Takism square, it has supposedly the best restaurant in Istanbul, or one of the best, and is also expensive. any suggestions for athens restaurants, not too expensive, but not tourist traps please. we love good greek food.

Dianne, let me try to address one of your questions; about a day trip to Mycenae, Corinth, and Epidarus. <BR> <BR>You can do it if you plan to start early, return late, and are adventurous. The principal rental car agencies cor central Athens are located across from Hadrian's Gate, just at the edge of the Plaka. Go armed with a good Michelin map of Athens and its suburbs, because the map you'll be provided won't be at all useful. <BR> <BR>I believe the car rental agencies are open by 6:30 or 7:00; you'll want to pick up your car that early in order to have any chance against the Athens traffic. No expressway goes into central Athens; you have to follow the street signs to get out to the toll road that goes south into the Peloponnese. Fortunately, the principal streets are signed in Roman letters. <BR> <BR>You can be at Mycenae in under two hours, and I would make that my first stop. Arriving by 9 a.m. puts you a full hour ahead of the first tour bus, and that's important. There's now a museum at Mycenae, so you'll likely not be finished until at least 1 p.m. <BR> <BR>There's no direct road from Mycenae to Epidarus; you have to go through the outskirts of Napflion, a very attractive seaside city that may hold interest for you (it wad the first capital of "modern" Greece). If you drive straight through, it is about two hours from Mycenae to Epidarus over roads that were under construction when we were there last year. <BR> <BR>Epidarus is crowded; there's never a timer when its not; and on a scale of one to ten, with Mycenae a 10, Epidarus is about a five. The ampitheatre is glorious, the spa ruin nearby less so. You'll likely spend two hours or less. <BR> <BR>You pick up the expressway near Napflion, and can be to Corinth in about two hours from the time you leave Epidarus. Rather than the Roman ruin at Corinth, I'd lead for the Byzantine/Medieval fortress at Acrocorinth. The road getting there is great; the hike up into the fortress is exhilirating if you're in shape, and the views are jaw-dropping. <BR> <BR>From Corinth back to central Athens, if you're returning after rush hour, should be about an hour and a half. For some reason, getting back inot the city is easier than getting out of it. <BR> <BR>We took a kind of "great circle" drive from Athens to Delphi to Olympus to Mycenae, and back to Athens, and took six days doing so. Your day trip compresses what we saw in two days into a single one. <BR> <BR>As an alternative, you might consider driving out of Athens the afternoon before and staying in Mycenae. We used the Petite Planete as our base of operations for the eastern Peloponnese, and can recommend it highly. <BR>

BG <BR> <BR>We were lucky that our hotel was almost in the town centre and we could walk everywhere. Took a taxi one day to Ano Mera and just waiting in the queue was wonderful - the sights and sounds :o) <BR> <BR>fav beach - Ag Yannis (followed by Super Paradise) <BR>fav sunset - veranda <BR>fav food - dolmades and souvlaki (Eva's - great restaurant) <BR>best transportation - foot, bus then taxi <BR> <BR>Did you try and get a table at Nico's? I was dispappointed this year as I thought the food wasn't so good and the service left a lot to be desired. They have introduced hand held computer menu ordering - aaaarrgghhh!! <BR> <BR>Did you see the amazing cruise ship that came in on Saturday? I was also surprised at the number of power cuts. The most I've ever seen over the years. <BR> <BR>In my mind though this is still the best island in Greece to take a vacation although I know others will disagree. We've been returning to the same hotel for years and the owners treat us like family. A very nice feeling. <BR> <BR>Where did you stay on the island? <BR> <BR>Now to update my net page with the new pics! <BR> <BR>Regards <BR> <BR>Bill

Hey Bill B., <BR>We've only been to Mykonos, however it contained both excitement/international feel & quiet places in my opinion. <BR>

(cont.)to:Bill Barr <BR>We stayed at Cavoo Tagoo, on the top, <BR>so the view & breeze were unbelievable. <BR>I think the hotel service could improve, <BR>especially in light of their high rates. <BR>There were 5 cruise ships! parked outside of Cavoo Tagoo the 6th, all with PA announcements early Sun. morning! ( they did not bother us the rest of the trip). <BR>Nico's food was OK. More of a good people watching spot. I liked "Spyros" <BR>underneath the windmills - Well prepared <BR>tavern food, unlike the "Alefkandra cafe" tourist trap across the road. <BR>The food at the roofed cafe at Elias beach was very good, as was Chez Marias. <BR> <BR>We really enjoyed getting naked at Elias!, it was a nice mix of Greeks & <BR>tourists, every kind of human. Everbody <BR>was cool. <BR> <BR>Where did you stay in town? Was it quiet? <BR>Later, BG <BR>

Hello ! <BR>I recommend you to stay in historical Sultanahmet area,in Istanbul. <BR>This area is the center of the old city of Istanbul and there are nice hotels which are very close to the museums and historical monuments. <BR>We stayed in a new,family-run hotel called Hotel Sari Konak.It is a modernised wooden Ottoman house.Very well decorated,clean,not expensive... <BR>The view of Blue Mosque and Marmara Sea from the terrace is terrific.(Especially at sun set...) <BR>For pictures: www.istanbulhotels.com/sarikonak.htm <BR>Tel.+90(212)638 62 58 <BR>Fax.+90(212)517 86 35 <BR> <BR>If you like meat,you have to try BEYTI which is close to airport.It is the best restaurant in Istanbul to eat meat. <BR>There is also another nice restaurant where you can taste Turkish cuisine,in Hotel Ciragan Kempinski:Tugra Restaurant <BR>For kebaps,try DEVELI RESTAURANT,in Samatya area.This restaurant is not known by tourists. <BR>If you have further questions,e-mail me.

Stayed at the Ciragan Palace May of 1997. The price was reasonable, and our room was very nice. Staff were very snobby. I think they are accustomed to more formally dressed European guests and appeared to be taken aback when we waited for our friends in the lobby in nice khakis and casual shirts. Same thing in the Turga restaurant, although the food was great and not overly expensive. Our concierge made a reservation which suddenly disappeared when we arrived, even though we were formally dressed. About halfway through our stay, hotel staff figured out that the "casual Americans" probably had enough money to pay their bill and everyone suddenly turned supersweet! Be prepared for the incredible traffic, noise and pollution. It was lovely sitting in our white hotel bathrobes by the pool overlooking the Bosphorus - except that one can barely breathe because of the pollution. In spite of it all, Istanbul is an incredibly fascinating city. E-mail me if you want specifics. Oh, yes, and Athens, one of my favorite cities. We stay in a small hotel in Athens, so I can't really suggest one to you. But I agree that driving in Athens is a nightmare. Rather, take a tourbus. Delphi is a full day trip, but wonderful. Oh, I just thought of a wonderful Athens travel tip, which I think I'll post separately as well. You are probably aware that it is against Greek law to take antiquities out of Greece. However, what most people don't know is that there are three antiquities shops licensed in Athens which are authorized by the government to sell antiquities that may be exported. When you purchase, you are given a certificate of authenticity and an export license. I talked about this with several Greek friends of mine, feeling a little guilty. They all said that this is a way to generate income for museums by selling antiquities that might not be up to the standard of Greek museums. I bought a lovely little child's drinking cup from the 5th century B.C. geometric period. I will get the name of my shop and post it tomorrow, or email me if you're interested. Have lots of fun!

hello this is your turkish friend from Istanbul.I am working at the Istanbul Airport.Send your questions to me,I will try my best for you.regards B.B

<BR>Hi. I'm thinking of a Greek cruise -- probably Spring of next year. Does anyone have any advice eg: which line and where to go? I'd appreciate any input. <BR>Lynne

You received a lot of good advise in the previous replies , let me add: in Istanbul, bargaining is a way of lilfe. They can ask a hundred times or more the real value of anything you wish to buy, so they will always win. Believe me because it is true. <BR>Guides , and people that pop up from anywhere in the bazaars, streets etc. <BR>and always say they have a "cousin" in the town you come from, try to invite tourists to so called "factories" or wholesalers, there again they can ask you many, many times the real value. <BR>If you are note expert at bargaining <BR>do not even try. <BR>having said this, it is a great destination <BR>you will have a wonderful time. <BR>

Just returned from Athens & Istanbul on Oct 2nd. Stayed at the Grande Bretagne in Athens. We got a $125/nite week-end rate via Travelocity- book early! http://www.travelocity.com/ <BR>Also stayed at the Ayasofia Pansiyons in Istanbul. This is by FAR the best location for sightseeing. Not fancy, but good! Their rates are $120/nite facing the front and $100 with no view-wall in back. <BR>

My husband and I stayed at both Empress Zoe and Ciragan Palace Hotel on a recent visit to Istanbul. They are very different hotels. Empress Zoe is a great small hotel in the old town near all the sights. The rooms are basic but clean and the courtyard is great for breakfast. The Ciragan Palace is on the other side of the Golden Horn. We loved it. The view was amazing, the staff was very friendly to us, and there were very cool neighbourhoods to wander to on foot. I wish we could have afforded the palace side of the hotel--we wandered through and it is amazing. However, I would think that if you substituted Ciragan Palace for Empress Zoe you should be saving quite a bit of money--perhaps for a kilim or 2! <BR>

We returned last week after Turkey and Italy. In Istanbul we stayed at Grande Yasif Hotel and Side Hotel/Pansiyone. Side won hands down.. A small fraction of the price of the other, larger rooms, more pleasant staff, and within strolling distance of the main attractions. Plenty of "cheap" eats around too. We tried Empress Zoe but it was full. E/Zoe is about 100 metres from Side. <BR>We drove the western coast after Istanbul, but one day's travel in that direction (return) doesn't seem worth while. You have to go one day and not return. Try the Black Sea area = we didn't, but many people said it was wonderful. Enjoy... a fascinating place. Denise