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Assisi & area
We have reservations to stay in Assisi for a week in September, 1999. What are some must see things see and do in the area? Good eating places? We have heard a lot of comments about the earthquake and its affect on tourism in the area but, we are committed and still going. Do we have anything to be concerned about?
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Assisi is excellent. The main, world-class attraction is the Giotto frescoes in the upper church of the Saint Francis complex. This is closed because of post-earthquake reconstruction. <BR> <BR>The lower church is open and is wonderful. Assisi is an unspoiled hill town with no bassa (lower town) to spoil the views. The views are not to be missed. <BR> <BR>Umbria is wonderful. I recommend visits to Todi, Gubbio, and Spoleto. Orvieto is a ways but is supposed to be great. Norcia is another hill town with the best food in Italy (according to some Romans I know). In Assisi I went to the Locanda San Francesco in centro, a wine cellar restaurant with good food and decent prices. Ask your hotelier, the San Francesco is the accepted "best place in town".
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We were in Assisi in September. Everything, except the upper basilica, is open and functioning. We liked the restaurant La Fortezza, very good food at reasonable prices. We also ate at La Stalla a rustic Umbrian restaurant that is on the road to St. Francis' Eremo delle Carceri (forest hangout). If you stay near Orvieto, consider making the short trip to Civita de Bagnoregio, a tiny isolated hilltown. Like most hill towns Assisi is not for driving, so make sure to leave your car in one of the lots as you enter. Some hotels have special parking "deals."
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My family and I were in Assisi in October for unfortunately three nights only. It is a beuatiful town and I would like to recommend the restaurant at the hotel we stayed at. I am struggling to remember the exact name, but I think it was Hotel Rocca. It is in Lets Go Italy'98 and was great value.
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It's difficult to do badly eating in Northern Italy as long as you stick to Italian food in places frequented by the natives. Avoid the ubiquitous Chinese restaurants and obvious touristy places. Also avoid chain restaurants and cafeterias like Brek and Ciao. Places serving pizza should have wood burning ovens. <BR> <BR>Italian pizza is much different from Shakeys or Pizza Hut. They are typically what we would call medium size and are meant for one person. Prices range upward from 4 to 5 dollars. <BR>Pizzas typically are cheese or one topping. Italian tomato sauce is usually far better quality than experienced in the US, and I far prefer Italian pizza to the normal US varieties. Pasta also is excellent, cooked perfectly. Italian wine is palatable. I typically would order a quarter or a half liter of "Vino Della Casa" (house wine) anywhere in Rome or further north. In Naples and Sicily this often resulted in the most fearful plonk, but in central Italy or the North restaurants owners take pride in what they serve. It is frequently better than what you can order yourself as well as half the price! The mineral water is wonderful and excellent value. <BR> <BR>Italian restaurants usually don't sell multi-course dinners (meat, vegetables, etc). You order by course and pay seperately for any vegetable. The exception is called a menu, which offers choices of appetizer, entree, side dish, and sometimes dessert or other courses for a fixed price. Drinks extra, and there are no free drink refills like there are here. <BR> <BR>There is a small cover charge called the coperto, typically $1.50 to $2 added to the cost of the meal. Service charge and tax (Value-added tax) are included in the total. <BR> <BR>Generally speaking I found prices in neighborhood eateries to be at or below prices here despite the cover charges.
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