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As a Tourist, Have You Dined in a Private Home in Italy?

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As a Tourist, Have You Dined in a Private Home in Italy?

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Old Jun 18th, 2010, 05:03 PM
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As a Tourist, Have You Dined in a Private Home in Italy?

The NY Times wrote about this intriguing program where you can dine in the home of Italians and have a special meal and experience with your hosts. I'm considering doing this next May.

Has anyone tried this and if you did, what was your experience?

http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/04/11.../11Frugal.html

http://www.homefood.it/
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Old Jun 18th, 2010, 05:07 PM
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There was a thread on this fairly recently. I'll see if I can find it.
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Old Jun 18th, 2010, 05:10 PM
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the same NYT article was referenced in this thread:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...go-diffuso.cfm
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Old Jun 18th, 2010, 05:11 PM
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LOL!
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Old Jun 18th, 2010, 05:11 PM
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Thanks Jean. I hadn't seen it.
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Old Jun 18th, 2010, 05:28 PM
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My (then) boyfriend's family had us to dinner in their home in Praiano. I still drool thinking about that divine, fresh calamari!
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Old Jun 18th, 2010, 05:36 PM
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I just read that thread - quite interesting and many valid points of view. I'm intrigued by the concept and the opportunity to dine in an Italian home, but I'd be very disappointed if the meal happened to be mediocre or they were serving something that I really don't want to try - organ meats or tripe for instance. It would be a gamble for me and I would have to be willing to sacrifice one well researched dinner (which could be disappointing too) and go with adventure. I would not be put off by the language barrier.
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Old Jun 18th, 2010, 07:08 PM
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Yes, I used with a work with a woman who had a lot of family in Sicily, We went to have lunch with her cousins. We speak no Italian but can muddle by in Spanish and they spoke no English. It was enjoyable, although I forgot what we ate. When the patriarch came home for lunch he barely acknowledged our existence. I wanted to remind him he slept on the blow-up matresses we lent my friend when they came in for her wedding. The oddest custom was throwing the contents of an ashtray on the floor, so they could sweep it up. I am not sure why they just did not toss in the garbage.
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 12:04 AM
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"...The oddest custom was throwing the contents of an ashtray on the floor, so they could sweep it up. I am not sure why they just did not toss in the garbage...."

Aduchamp1. I love your entertaining first hand observations of someone who has obviously been around for awhile and has picked up on the existing oddities in another culture's daily activities.
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 12:31 AM
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Thank you Linca.

I always wondered what the Italian family said about us after we left.
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 01:31 AM
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Centralparkgirl,

I had the impression that the places that organize these "in-home" eating experiences for visitors to Italy ask if there are things you don't eat, and the menu is planned accordingly. You are treated as a guest.

I'm guessing your screen name has something to do with living in NYC, and when I lived in the states, that's where I lived most recently. New York ideas about dining well are really very far from Italian ideas about the same, so you might find it interesting to experience the comparison.

I don't know what kind of framework you bring to researching where to find good meals in Italy, but it has been my impression, reading trip reports and restaurant reviews, that some Americans coming to Italy do the same kind of research they would do as if they were going to London or Spain, and I think it's not quite the right approach for Italy, except maybe in the biggest cities.
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 04:00 AM
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ha ha ha. I'm sure they had SOMEthing to say.. in what sense only you can imagine!
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 09:37 AM
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zeppole,

Yes, I do live in Manhattan, but was born and raised in an Italian neighborhood in Brooklyn and have thus been exposed to Italian food and merchants my whole life (Sicilian and Neapolitan primarily). During my first career, I worked with many first generation Italians and lunchtimes were frequently spent discussing food (still have some good recipes from those days). Having said that, I'm no expert. I just like good food. For an anniversary or birthday, I might eat in a restaurant with special decor, service and high end products in the menu, but like I said in another thread, I like rustic. One of our least liked meals three years ago in northern Tuscany might have been in a restaurant called Albergaccio di Castellina (or something similar). It was too formal and the food too nouvelle (for lack of a better word) for what I want and expect in a delicious meal in Italy. There's a restaurant I like in NoHo called Il Buco. Why? It feels like a Tuscan farmhouse and I love their garlicky black kale salad.

I have gone to Italy with no research (back in the '80s) and did quite a bit for the last trip in '07. And I think I found Albergaccio in the Michelin guide. I have always eaten well in Italy including my first trip when I was 19 although on occasion I've had disappointing bread.

I don't consider myself terribly adventurous when dining, but I am not put off by a fish head on my plate. I prefer tackling a whole fish, head and all, than have some waitstaff person fillet it for me. I don't think that's adventurous.

BTW, just picked up some books this morning on Italy including Fred Plotkin's newest edition thanks to the recs here on Fodors.

When I read a TR about NYC and read what restaurants people loved here and I think are mediocre, it only reinforces that people have diverse tastes and standards. It's as simple as that.
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 10:34 AM
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CentralParkGirl - though I haven't participated in that scheme as mentioned in the NY Times, one of the most enjoyable dinners a cousin and I had in Venice was at a local couple's home in San Polo. We had met them one night at Da Ivo in Calle dei Fuseri, just before you cross the bridge to Campo San Luca, and got to talking and they graciously invited us for dinner the next night. We uncharacteristically accepted their generous offer and enjoyed a lovely three-course dinner and wonderful conversation. Fate took us there, I guess: I had business across the street from Da Ivo the day before, which ran way over time, so we stopped for dinner and met this charming couple who were kind enough to wish to share their home and a meal with us the next evening. While our potluck experience was a happy one, you shouldn't fear partaking of the program promoted by the Times since it says you can peruse the participants' menus and choose one that appeals from whatever region you are visiting.

Sandra
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 10:40 AM
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Not in Italy, but we had lunch on a farm in Switzerland, it was very memorable - great food, friendly people, and dessert to die for!
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 10:56 AM
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centralparkgirl,

Funny, but I just today met someone who was raised in Brooklyn but is of Italian heritage, and we were talking about the prevalence of Neopolitan and Sicilian cooking shaping Italian-American cooking, and the surprise that Americans often have in Italy if they venture beyond tourist restaurants and don't encounter tomato sauce on anything, sometimes not even tomatoes period.

Michelin restaurant recommendations for Italy very often veer away from classic cooking and anything rustic. Since your trip isn't until next year, I also suggest that you take a look at David Downie's books, since he is a big fan of unfancy Roman and Ligurian cooking, if your final plans include either of those places. If you eat branzino fish in Liguria (or in Venice), it is part of the preparation of the dish for the water to fillet it for you, and to mix the cooking juices with lemon to make a sauce at the table -- so don't stop him!

If you've never been to Sicily, you might contemplate going sometime for its earthy food, among other attractions.
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 11:56 AM
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sandra and dayenu - those kind of experiences create wonderful memories.

z - I was in Sicily in '83 and the food didn't come close to food on the mainland. I recall eggplant 8 ways on every menu. It was a long time ago and perhaps the restaurants we chose weren't the best, but that was our experience. On that same trip, I was introduced for the first time to mozzarella di buffalo (Positano), portobello type mushrooms (Florence) and balsamic vinegar. It's funny how balsamic became the rage in the US and the stuff in diners and supermarkets doesn't slightly resemble the real product. Same with mozzarella di buffalo that's flown over. I'd much rather have cheese that is made several times a day two minutes from my house even though it's obviously domestic and not of buffalo milk. It's also funny that you mention branzino - which I really like - because currently it's on most menus in NY (replacing Chilean sea bass) along with some type of salad that has a poached egg on it. A lot of unimaginative chefs copy what's new.

I digress - I've been looking at 'Go Slow Italy/Special Places to Eat, Stay and Savor' by Alastair Sawday and Jackie King that I picked up today. Beautiful pictures and interesting info - this book might be a keeper!
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Old Jun 19th, 2010, 02:40 PM
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Yes! That was the one and only time in my travels that I have dined with otherwise complete strangers, but it was very special indeed and Paola and I have stayed in touch. Oddly, her husband died within weeks of mine, and both unexpectedly, a strange sort of connection...

I have had lovely dinners in locals' homes, but accompanied by friends of each - one in Florence, in Fiesole, was equally remarkable and another in Bivio Lugnano in Umbria after the rededication of the 9th C. church which had been destroyed (nearly) in the earthquake of 1997; the rededication was 9 years later and we were invited to dinner by a parishioner, friend of my friend whom a group of us were visiting. As Zeppole said, not a tomato in sight and marvelous food all of it, as well as very memorable conviviality.

Sandra
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