Art Lovers Unite -- Splitting time Ams/Paris
 

Ok, art fans, I am taking my sister to Amsterdam next April school vacation during her break from teaching. She is a HUGE art fan and is hoping to begin a Master's in Museum Studies. She is also a Van Gogh fanatic, which is why her first trip abroad is going to be to Amsterdam. She has 7 nights and 8 days (not including flight time) and wants to "throw in Paris" while we're there, mostly to see the big monuments she's dreamed about and maybe the Louvre.

I've never been to Amsterdam, but have been to Paris 5 times now. How would you split the time for her? She thinks only 2 nights in Paris, but from cursory research on Amsterdam I tend to think there's a lot more of interest to her in Paris (this is a girl who can spend an entire day at the Met and not get weary). She loves Picasso, the Old Masters, modern art, photography, sculpture. I'm afraid she'll get to Paris for 3 days/2 nights and be disappointed she doesn't have enough time. Is there enough in Amsterdam for an art lover (and perhaps some history such as Anne Frank house) that justifies 5 nights? What would you suggest?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

I'm not really answering your question, I know (namely because I haven't been to Amsterdam), but if she is a Van Gogh fanatic then she needs to make time for the Musee d'Orsay in Paris for sure. And possibly a trip to Auvers-sur-Oise (where he is buried and lived the last 2 months of his life), which is a short train ride outside of Paris.

FYI, it's something like 5 hrs by Thalys train from Amsterdam to Paris, so there's that travel time to consider as well.

FYI also, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam is undergoing renovation, so only part of the collection is on view (from what I hear). I don't think the renovation is going to be finished by next April. Others here probably know for sure.

Much as I like Amsterdam, I'd split the time 4 or even 5 nights in Paris, and 2 or 3 in Amsterdam. That would still leave her wishing she'd had more time in both, perhaps, but would mean she'd get to see a much fairer representation of what each has to offer.

I can't help wondering if she's really looked at the guide books to see what's available in each city, or whether she has an unrealistic expectation of what's available in Amsterdam: Van Gogh had his reasons for leaving the Netherlands for France, after all!

First of all, fly into one city and out of the other - it's called "open-jaw" and you get at this ticket by using the "multi-city" feature on air-travel websites. Should not cost more, but if it does a little, you save that by not having to double back to catch a plane.

3 days AMS, 4 days PAR, in either order, and take an early early flight from one to the other so the travel day is still worth something at the arrival location. Look at www.skyscanner.net for a cheap flight, and travel light - read the luggage restrictions carefully.

Keep an eye on the AMS museum sites, the Rijks has the "masterpieces" on temporary display during renovations, and the (modern - 20th century) Stedelijk has a temporary and reduced display in a building next to the train station while renovations are going on, and who knows what they're going to do to the Van Gogh...

Also look at art gallery (commercial) websites, no obligation to buy but there is a lively scene your sister might enjoy.

In Paris get the museum pass, it saves money if you go to lots of museums, but more importantly it saves precious time and foot capital because you avoid lines, and it allows a peek into museums where you might not otherwise have gone if you had to pay, so you'll likely make some discoveries...

WK

With the Rijksmuseum pared down to about 400+ works due to the renovation it won't take as long but don't forget there is a n entirely separate Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam and if she is the Van Gogh "fanatic" you say she is then to me, that means at least two full days in Amsterdam.

"And maybe the Louvre..." Uhhh, she does realize how extensive that museum is, right? But then again, perhaps she won't want to see everything there...if she does that will obviously take several days. I tend to agree with the 3/4 split suggested by Wally.

My question is; while she is doing all this art stuff, what are YOU planning to do?????

Exactly...so the time isn't going to ALL be spent doing the art stuff and that's a good thing.

Due to the renovation of Rijksmuseum, the main and most famouw works are now together in a section of the museum. Which means you nedd less time there. Van Gogh museum is almost nextdoor to the Rijks.
But if you still have time try to visit the Kroller-Muller Museum in the east part of the country. Also famous for its Van Gogh collection. check:http://www.kmm.nl/index_flash.html

Actually, Ida, for art lovers it simply means they can walk less and spend even MORE time in a smaller space!!!!

Hi amy,

I would fly into AMS - 3 nights max - train to Paris and fly home from there.

((I))

Hi amyb, DH and I are huge museum fans and loved Amsterdam. Spent 3 days there in Sep05 and that was enough time for us. We spent one day at the Van Gogh Museum, one morning at the Rijks (saw everything in their temporary display, due to the renovations), and one afternoon at the Anne Frank Museum.

Spend more time in Paris - the Louvre, Orsay, Rodin were our favorites, and we spent one full day in each museum :-).

But while you are in Amsterdam, she might want to daytrip (one hour by train) to the Hague for Vermeers at Mauritshuis or Haarlem for the Hals museum or to the Kroller-Muller.
I think there's plenty of art in Amsterdam and vicinity for a full week there, and you'd really get your money's worth with the $30 (approx) museum card. Of course, Paris is worth several weeks at least.
Decisions, decisions. Pick one city for this trip and start planning the next as soon as you return home.

There's plenty of art to see in Amsterdam, though you can probably split up to 4 days in Amsterdam and 4 days in Paris.

In Amsterdam, apart from the obvious (Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh), she should check out the following 2:

Stedelijk Musuem (for Contemporary art).
http://www.stedelijk.nl/

The Foam Photograph Museum in Amsterdam has various exhibitions on at all times.
http://www.foam.nl/

Rembrandthuis is also worth a visit.

You may consider a day trip from Amsterdam, either to visit the Kroller-Muller Museum, or head to Den Haag (and stop in Delft) to visit these 2:

Mauritshuis for its lovely Vermeers, and
Gemeentemuseum for its famous collection of Piet Mondrian.
The Escher Museum is also in Den Haag - most people enjoyed it, but I found it just so-so.

I visited most of these museums I mentioned (with the exception of Stedelijk) last May. Here is a link to my trip report:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34626323

Just want to add (what kayd mentioned) - the Netherlands Museum Card is a great deal.
http://www.museumkaart.nl

I agree with Ira, three in AMS balance in Paris.

We visited AMS for the first time this past April. We have visted Paris many times. We too are big Van Gogh fans who
annually visit St. Remy and visited Arles, Auvers-sur-Oise, etc. The 200 Van Gogh paintings in the permanent collection at the Van Gogh Museum in AMS will bring tears to her eyes. That exhibition is segmented Early Holland years, Paris, Arles, St. Remy and Auvers-sur-Oise. (I suggest Hotel Fita, a very nice hotel, that is located right between the Van Gogh and the Rijksmuseum for your stay.)

As to Paris, the Musee D'Orsay must not be missed.Your sister is going to have to pick and choose and return to really see all that is available in both places. Since you expressed her love for Van Gogh, however, I would not miss the Van Gogh Museum in AMS which, incidentally, is a lovely city.

I normally advise people to follow a flexible schedule and not try to plan evey moment. Given her penchant, I would say advance time allocation is very important.

Anthony

Thank you all, I knew I'd get well thought out replies! Especially thanks for the museum recommendations for those in AMS we hadn't thought of yet!

Yes, I had planned on open jaw, and probably flying between the two, not sure yet on that. And the Museum Pass is a given, obviously!

I am totally flexible on what I do. But if you read my trip report from last month, you'll see I did "museum out" after 4 days in Paris. I am planning on the tulips (if they're ready for us) and a day-trip to Haarlem and/or the Hague. We both love Vermeer, so that's another reason for this joint trip!

She has seen all my photos and trip reports and now has the Paris guides to mull over. I'm thinking she is spoiled for choice in Paris, but she hasn't said that. I will remind her again of the wonderful Van Goghs at the Orsay and how fond I am of the Rodin. She would go nuts in the Picasso museum there. My only personal "goal" of this trip is to get to the L'Orangerie, which I missed by a week last month!

Thank you again, I will pass along all your recommendations!

Whatever you do, get to the Kroller-Moller Museum. It will take you about 90 minutes from Amsterdam, but it's worth it. Spend the day, take a free white bicycle and bike around the national park, have lunch outside or picnic, spend time in the huge sculpture garden...The museum is a treasure and and art lover's dream!

http://www.kmm.nl/index_flash.html#voorpagina

In Amsterdam I agree with the suggestion of the Kroller-Moller musuem. I haven't made it there yet, but it is definately on my list! Also the Hermitage Museum of looks interesting www .hermitage.nl

In Paris beyond the obvious I recommend the Musee Marmottan in the 16th. It has the Monet family's collection of his work and his collection of other artists. I did not make it to the Picasso Museum, but this is high on the list for my next trip as well.

Thank you all again. I have forwarded a link of the KMM and Hermitage to my sister. Feeding the fires, we are!

I think part of my concern stems from the fact that I have been to Paris 5 times and seen most of these museums, and as a non-arty type, I enjoyed them all immensely, so she'd go nuts there. I know she'd love the Dali, Picasso, Rodin, Marmottan, Orsay, Louvre, Pompidou, etc. I just can't see fitting it all in in 2 or 3 short days, and I need to convince myself there's enough to see in Amsterdam to spend more time there. So maybe you're all helping me rather than my sis! I'm looking forward to it either way, I just don't want her to be disappointed on her first trip over.

Ira -- I meant to mention that the Jacquemart-Andre was the museum that I had to drop from my itinerary last month due to time constraints, but it is on my list with the Orangerie for "next time"...April 07, fingers crossed!

Yeah don't forget the Pompidou.

What about the coffee houses and the other attractions in AMS? ;)

Here's a link that may help you:
www.artencyclopedia.com
And yes, don't forget the Pompideau. If memory serves me they are open until around 9 (?)

I too am an artlover and have been to both Amsterdam and Paris and would split the time 2 days Amsterdam and 5 days Paris. Also, if she loves Van Gogh (I do too), she might also love Monet and a daytrip to Giverny would be well worth her time as well.