Arles and Lyon, a few questions
May 1st, 2013, 01:23 AM
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schnauzer - I haven't been called amazing in a long, long time, that's got my day off to a great start!
Glad to be of service!
I know what you mean about the 'near the river' comment. My parents once drove down to Lyon to meet my wife and I there and at one point I got a call from my mother along the lines of "we're at some traffic lights with the river on our left, can you direct us to your place?". Needless to say, I couldn't help much...
If it's not an indelicate question, can I ask why you're going back to Lyon? I'm just always interested in people's reasons for visiting.
cmcfong - de rien!
You're absolutely right about the menu. I've often found that I spend more time picking what I'm going to have than it takes to order and eat it. When you're back, please do let us know what you thought of it. As you're going in May, the queue and scrum for the outside tables shouldn't be too bad.
Glad to be of service!
I know what you mean about the 'near the river' comment. My parents once drove down to Lyon to meet my wife and I there and at one point I got a call from my mother along the lines of "we're at some traffic lights with the river on our left, can you direct us to your place?". Needless to say, I couldn't help much...
If it's not an indelicate question, can I ask why you're going back to Lyon? I'm just always interested in people's reasons for visiting.
cmcfong - de rien!
You're absolutely right about the menu. I've often found that I spend more time picking what I'm going to have than it takes to order and eat it. When you're back, please do let us know what you thought of it. As you're going in May, the queue and scrum for the outside tables shouldn't be too bad.
May 3rd, 2013, 11:09 AM
#22
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Just wanted to add to my previous re. the English language walking tour leaving from the TI. During our visit I got the impression that these tours were driven by demand so, if possible, it might be helpful to stop in at the TI the day before to reserve a slot.
And JayG - thanks for the info. It'll be most useful on our next trip.
And JayG - thanks for the info. It'll be most useful on our next trip.
May 3rd, 2013, 02:07 PM
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JayG,
I am meeting up with a girlfriend from Scotland for a few days whilst I am in France. We were orginially trying to go to Corsica but with 2 people coming from different countries and then leaving to go to two different places afterwards trying to coordinate planes and ferries it just all became "too hard". So we opted for the easy option - 3 nights in Paris and then I thought - where is easy to get to by train - easy for me to continue to Nice, easy for my friend to get to Scotland and can offer us some great 'flaneuring whilst chatting' opportunities. Good food, interesting sights if we wanted. And Lyon popped into my head. I had only spent a couple of nights there previously and thought it definitely warranted a return visit. And let's face it I have never forgotten about the ice cream parlour that alone is worth the return journey!!
If you can offer any 'things we mustn't miss' while we are there please let me know. I have printed off copious notes but first hand info is always good. We are staying at La Loge des Avocats which looks really great. Any typical Lyon Bistro recommendations are always helpful as well.
Thanks Schnauzer
I am meeting up with a girlfriend from Scotland for a few days whilst I am in France. We were orginially trying to go to Corsica but with 2 people coming from different countries and then leaving to go to two different places afterwards trying to coordinate planes and ferries it just all became "too hard". So we opted for the easy option - 3 nights in Paris and then I thought - where is easy to get to by train - easy for me to continue to Nice, easy for my friend to get to Scotland and can offer us some great 'flaneuring whilst chatting' opportunities. Good food, interesting sights if we wanted. And Lyon popped into my head. I had only spent a couple of nights there previously and thought it definitely warranted a return visit. And let's face it I have never forgotten about the ice cream parlour that alone is worth the return journey!!
If you can offer any 'things we mustn't miss' while we are there please let me know. I have printed off copious notes but first hand info is always good. We are staying at La Loge des Avocats which looks really great. Any typical Lyon Bistro recommendations are always helpful as well.
Thanks Schnauzer
May 27th, 2013, 11:18 AM
#26
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I had a chocolate legois at Nardonne. Simply incredible!!! Thank you for the suggestion, Jay and Schnauzer. We were only in Lyon a very short time but I have never in my life seen such traffic congestion and on a Saturday! There were at least three major political demonstrations and who knows what else to add to the traffic tie up, but we found walking to be the best and fastest way to get around. It is a beautiful city and the view of the old town from the bridges is unforgettable.
May 28th, 2013, 02:52 AM
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cmcfong - glad you made it to Nardonne and enjoyed your visit to Lyon. As you say, the traffic in the town centre can be a nightmare. If you can believe it, it has actually got better in recent years, but there are a few tramlines being extended at the moment, combined with the usual construction / renovation work going on, so it all adds up. Last summer it took me over an hour and half to travel just over a mile through the city centre. I was fashionably late for aperitif that evening I can assure you...
cferbb - loving your use of the term 'git'. Haven't heard that for ages! Must remember to use it more often.
Anyway, the traboules are covered passages / walkways that link certain streets throughout Lyon. They were originally constructed so that silk workers could carry their bolts of cloth from the atelier to wherever they needed to get to (usually to market or to wealthy customers) without being subjected to whatever might be falling from the sky that day, whether rain, snow or other more solid objects being evacuated from pots de chambre.
In later years, they were also used by Resistance fighters to escape from the pursuing forces. They're worth a visit, as they're something that are unique to Lyon and allow you to explore the city (and visit some incredible buildings) unhampered by cars.
Hope that helps...
cferbb - loving your use of the term 'git'. Haven't heard that for ages! Must remember to use it more often.
Anyway, the traboules are covered passages / walkways that link certain streets throughout Lyon. They were originally constructed so that silk workers could carry their bolts of cloth from the atelier to wherever they needed to get to (usually to market or to wealthy customers) without being subjected to whatever might be falling from the sky that day, whether rain, snow or other more solid objects being evacuated from pots de chambre.
In later years, they were also used by Resistance fighters to escape from the pursuing forces. They're worth a visit, as they're something that are unique to Lyon and allow you to explore the city (and visit some incredible buildings) unhampered by cars.
Hope that helps...
May 28th, 2013, 03:16 AM
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Schnauzer - thanks for responding to my query and apologies for my rudeness in not being able to reply sooner. La Loge des Avocats is in a really great position and I seem to remember someone else on this forum mentioning that they stayed there and how good it was.
In order to make up for my tardiness, here are some things that I would say are 'not to be missed' during your trip;
As you'll be there in June, this year's Nuits de Fourviere festival will have started, and if you get the chance to go to see something (anything), I'd suggest you grab the opportunity with both hands. It's a festival of theatre, concerts, dance and everything in between, with a different performance almost every night between now and the end of August.
It takes place at the Roman amphitheatre overlooking the city and the view, combined with a (usually spectacular) show is very hard to beat. I'd suggest going even if what's on when you're there isn't something you'd normally chose to see as the setting makes it worth it. Here's this year's programme;
http://www.nuitsdefourviere.com/programme
At different ends of the scale, but both equally unmissable (I think) are dinner at the Villa Florentine (incredible food with an amazing view);
http://www.villaflorentine.com/
Or dinner at the Cafe des Federations (a genuine Bouchon);
http://www.lesfedeslyon.com/
This could quickly descend into a list of great restaurants / bars if I'm not careful, so if you're about, if you let me know if there's anything in particular you're into, I'll try to come up with some more tailored suggestions.
As you say 'flaneuring and chatting' are the order of the day, I have a feeling we could be on the same wavelength.
In order to make up for my tardiness, here are some things that I would say are 'not to be missed' during your trip;
As you'll be there in June, this year's Nuits de Fourviere festival will have started, and if you get the chance to go to see something (anything), I'd suggest you grab the opportunity with both hands. It's a festival of theatre, concerts, dance and everything in between, with a different performance almost every night between now and the end of August.
It takes place at the Roman amphitheatre overlooking the city and the view, combined with a (usually spectacular) show is very hard to beat. I'd suggest going even if what's on when you're there isn't something you'd normally chose to see as the setting makes it worth it. Here's this year's programme;
http://www.nuitsdefourviere.com/programme
At different ends of the scale, but both equally unmissable (I think) are dinner at the Villa Florentine (incredible food with an amazing view);
http://www.villaflorentine.com/
Or dinner at the Cafe des Federations (a genuine Bouchon);
http://www.lesfedeslyon.com/
This could quickly descend into a list of great restaurants / bars if I'm not careful, so if you're about, if you let me know if there's anything in particular you're into, I'll try to come up with some more tailored suggestions.
As you say 'flaneuring and chatting' are the order of the day, I have a feeling we could be on the same wavelength.
May 28th, 2013, 03:50 AM
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Hi Jay G, not a problem. Just posted about stubbing my toe!! What a nuisance, hope it will "just go away".
The last Time I stayed in Lyon, we stayed at Villa Florentine, very flash and now due to changed circumstances out of my budget ( and my fiends). Thanks for the reco re the festival, sounds great, will put on my list. We will be looking for genuine bistro style places not tourist traps but not too expensive either. That sounds like everyone else doesn't it? So please some ideas would be great. Maybe something " different " as well as the classic? Actually I am just re reading all my Lyon notes whist checking on Fodors of course. Now I have my new mini iPad I can waste even mort time on the net!!!
Please feel free to offer your local favourite restaurant suggestions, most welcome...
I shall limp off to bed now, it is getting to that time down under.
Schnauzer
Ps where is cmcfongs detailed report? But glad she found the ice cream shop!
The last Time I stayed in Lyon, we stayed at Villa Florentine, very flash and now due to changed circumstances out of my budget ( and my fiends). Thanks for the reco re the festival, sounds great, will put on my list. We will be looking for genuine bistro style places not tourist traps but not too expensive either. That sounds like everyone else doesn't it? So please some ideas would be great. Maybe something " different " as well as the classic? Actually I am just re reading all my Lyon notes whist checking on Fodors of course. Now I have my new mini iPad I can waste even mort time on the net!!!
Please feel free to offer your local favourite restaurant suggestions, most welcome...
I shall limp off to bed now, it is getting to that time down under.
Schnauzer
Ps where is cmcfongs detailed report? But glad she found the ice cream shop!
May 28th, 2013, 04:40 AM
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Hi Schnauzer - sorry to hear about your toe, hope it gets better quickly. It might not be glamorous, but perhaps you could see if your doctor can get you one of those hard, plastic boot things that protect whilst still allowing you to walk. Here's a picture in case my brilliant description wasn't clear enough;
http://assets.vice.com/content-image...ef587d1181.jpg
The rest of that outfit would make up for any lost glamour...
If your budget no longer stretches to the Villa Florentine (whose does any more?) but if you want a similar (arguably better) view and much cheaper libations, there's a youth hostel on the Montée du Chemin Neuf with a terrasse that looks out over the city that has a bar where a glass of rosé will set you back about €1.50.
Back to the business at hand; here are a few Bouchons that should tickle your fancy and aren't tourist traps. There'll be plenty of locals though;
Le Garet (rue de Garet)
La Mere Jean (Rue des Marronniers)
Daniel et Denise (Rue de Crequi)
Le Sathonay (Rue Sergeant Blandan)
So that this post doesn't end up being fifteen feet long, I'll put some more suggestions for more bistro-y type places in a separate post.
http://assets.vice.com/content-image...ef587d1181.jpg
The rest of that outfit would make up for any lost glamour...
If your budget no longer stretches to the Villa Florentine (whose does any more?) but if you want a similar (arguably better) view and much cheaper libations, there's a youth hostel on the Montée du Chemin Neuf with a terrasse that looks out over the city that has a bar where a glass of rosé will set you back about €1.50.
Back to the business at hand; here are a few Bouchons that should tickle your fancy and aren't tourist traps. There'll be plenty of locals though;
Le Garet (rue de Garet)
La Mere Jean (Rue des Marronniers)
Daniel et Denise (Rue de Crequi)
Le Sathonay (Rue Sergeant Blandan)
So that this post doesn't end up being fifteen feet long, I'll put some more suggestions for more bistro-y type places in a separate post.
May 28th, 2013, 06:04 AM
#32
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Me again. I've got a few more recommendations for you, but where I'm coming up short is on the 'different' side of things. One of the things Lyon doesn't do very well is 'different'. I've been to a few places with 'a concept', and they've all been expensive and not very good.
Here are a few places which are classic, but hopefully just different enough;
Brasserie des Brotteaux (http://www.brasseriedesbrotteaux.com/fr/)
It's classic (I've just seen that they're celebrating their 100th anniversary this year) but they usually have a couple of dishes that stray from the usual fare
Brasserie de L'Est (http://www.nordsudbrasseries.com/)
Again, classic in style, but never disappointing and the clientele are worth the price of a set menu on their own. It can get noisy, but it's a brasserie in the most typical sense.
For something a bit different, on the river just out of town, overlooking the Ile Barbe, is Buldo (http://www.buldo.net/)
When I say on the river, for once it is exactly that. Some of the tables are on a fixed jetty on the river, so you have the Saone lapping under your feet whilst you eat. The food isn't spectacular but the setting makes it worth it, I think.
A place that's good for lunch is Cafe 203, again on Rue de Garet. It's simple, quick and cheap and the menu varies daily. It's also one of the few places in Lyon that will have a vegetarian option every day.
Just around the corner from the Rue de Garet is the Peristyle, which (as the name suggests) is a bar / music venue in the foyer of the Opera house. It's a seasonal thing, but it might have started by the time you arrive and they serve drinks along with free jazz concerts most evenings throughout the summer months.
If you want to go really different, there's always Carnegie Hall out by Gerland. There's a pretty full-on description of it in the trip report what I wrote if you do a search on my name. It's definitely an acquired taste, but the meat makes it worth it.
Hope this helps, but maybe cmcfong's report (no pressure!) will give a few more suggestions too.
If you do need any more pointers, just holler...
Here are a few places which are classic, but hopefully just different enough;
Brasserie des Brotteaux (http://www.brasseriedesbrotteaux.com/fr/)
It's classic (I've just seen that they're celebrating their 100th anniversary this year) but they usually have a couple of dishes that stray from the usual fare
Brasserie de L'Est (http://www.nordsudbrasseries.com/)
Again, classic in style, but never disappointing and the clientele are worth the price of a set menu on their own. It can get noisy, but it's a brasserie in the most typical sense.
For something a bit different, on the river just out of town, overlooking the Ile Barbe, is Buldo (http://www.buldo.net/)
When I say on the river, for once it is exactly that. Some of the tables are on a fixed jetty on the river, so you have the Saone lapping under your feet whilst you eat. The food isn't spectacular but the setting makes it worth it, I think.
A place that's good for lunch is Cafe 203, again on Rue de Garet. It's simple, quick and cheap and the menu varies daily. It's also one of the few places in Lyon that will have a vegetarian option every day.
Just around the corner from the Rue de Garet is the Peristyle, which (as the name suggests) is a bar / music venue in the foyer of the Opera house. It's a seasonal thing, but it might have started by the time you arrive and they serve drinks along with free jazz concerts most evenings throughout the summer months.
If you want to go really different, there's always Carnegie Hall out by Gerland. There's a pretty full-on description of it in the trip report what I wrote if you do a search on my name. It's definitely an acquired taste, but the meat makes it worth it.
Hope this helps, but maybe cmcfong's report (no pressure!) will give a few more suggestions too.
If you do need any more pointers, just holler...
May 28th, 2013, 06:27 AM
#33
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Cigalechanta - My heart skipped a beat when you recommended Chez Bob! We had a most memorable and delicious lunch there on our first trip to France in 1996! I recall the large stone fireplace in the main dining room of the farm house and antique posters hanging from the ceiling. Lunch was a leisurely event of pate, a basket of crudité, main course, cheese, fruit & a chilled bottle of rose. Amazing! There was no menu so we had no idea how much lunch was going to cost. Well, it did not matter. As it turns out, the memories are priceless!
cmcfong - We stayed for a week in Arles on that trip. If you happen to go to Chez Bob, I hope you report back! Have a wonderful trip!
cmcfong - We stayed for a week in Arles on that trip. If you happen to go to Chez Bob, I hope you report back! Have a wonderful trip!
May 28th, 2013, 07:02 AM
#34
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We did go to Chez Bob. We had been hiking and birding in the Carmagoue and asked the local ranger for her suggestion for a late lunch. She suggested Chez Bob. We arrived around four and saw all the tables were full. People and dogs lounging around drinking and talking. We were pretty sure we had stumbled into a private party. When we inquired about a meal (set price was 45 Euros) we were told reservations were essential and that the meal service had ended at two. We were disappointed not to be able to try it out, it clearly has a very loyal following.
We had considered returning another day but it is a bit out of the way for the other travels we had in mind. Unquestionably our best meal of the trip was at Cabra D'Oro near Les Baux. It was even more expensive than Bob's but the best money I have ever spent. The stuff of dreams!
We had considered returning another day but it is a bit out of the way for the other travels we had in mind. Unquestionably our best meal of the trip was at Cabra D'Oro near Les Baux. It was even more expensive than Bob's but the best money I have ever spent. The stuff of dreams!
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