Arles and Lyon, a few questions
 

I will be visiting Arles and Lyon soon. While I should have lots of time to explore Arles, my time in Lyon will be limited. I have the Michelin and several guidebooks to help me, but I would welcome any special recommendations from the forum participants.
a. Where would I find a great shop for women's clothing and shoes?
b. Is there a favorite market vendor in the Arles market?
c. Which patisserie is your favorite?
d. Any great ice cream shop?
e. Have you ever participated in the annual gathering of the gypsies? How was your experience and would you do it again?

Thank you.

If you go to the gypsie festival beware of pickpockets, it's a tightly knitted crowd, only browsed market day. dined out
didn't see any ice cream shops around where I was or Patisserie but I'm sure there are some in the non touristy parts of Arles. lyon, I have never visited but always wanted to dine at one of the famous bouchons.

http://www.arles-guide.com/arles_gui...t_day_in_arles
It's on the walk from the station into the centre of town.

thank you for your responses.

any other ideas?

Hi cmcfong, DH's and my visits to Arles and Lyon were the opposite, timewise. We took a day trip to Arles from our Montpellier base and fell in love with it. While having a coffee at Bistrot Arlesien at Place du Forum I realized my view was of the café Van Gogh painted at night.

We stayed in Lyon for a few days and loved it. Here's the link for my TR from there FYI. It's a wonderful city!

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-and-lyon.cfm

Thank you! While I look forward to doing a lot of exploration, it is nice to have some specific recommendations. I appreciate the information.

Take the bus tour in Lyon that goes to all the major trompe l'oeuil murals, and of course wander all the traboules.

The market in Arles is huge - it would be impossible to pick a favorite vendor. You can actually eat at the Van Gogh café in the Place des Forums (the shrimp salad is incredibly good!).

Shrimp salad sounds pretty wonderful! I will have to try it.

Thank you so much for the suggestion.

StCirq, is there a guided tour of traboules? JR and I only found one on our own.

The locals eat at L'Affenage,
The well-heeled eat at the Atelier de Rabenal(sp?)
If you venture to the Camargue, I suggest La Chassagnette,
La Telline, and Chez Bob

TDudette, I don't know about guided tours, but the tourist office on the Place Bellecoure had some sort of map as I recall that I used. Most of them were in that little area across the river where there's a warren of tiny zig-zagging streets.

I remember eating the best ice cream at a parlour in Lyon. Years ago, do you think I can remember where - darn can't. But it is there since you did ask!!! I remember my son ordering kiwi sorbet and me thinking hmmm, wouldn't have chosen that and after having a taste realised he was on to a very good thing!!

I am going to be in Lyon this June and by jingo I am going to try and find this place again!!

Schnauzer (very unhelpful I know)

I am going in May, Schnauzer, so perhaps i will find it for you! I love ice cream and little stands in my way as I seek out the best each town has to offer.

schnauzer - could the ice cream parlour have been Nardone? In the old town (Quai de Bondy), by the river?

Maybe this menu will help ring a bell; http://www.glaciernardone.com/flipbook/

There are a few other good ones in Lyon (Terre a Delice just around the corner from Nardone is one) but Nardone has been in Lyon for getting on for 100 years so it may well be there. It's also my favourite by a long way, for what that's worth.

My favourite way to refresh on a hot, Lyonnais day is to get two scoops from Nardone, one of orange blossom and the other lavender. So very, very good.

Regarding patisseries cmcfong, there are so many good ones in Lyon it's hard for me to pick a favourite, but one place you should definitely try is Maison Perroudon on Place Bellecour.

It's not cheap, but again, it's very, very good. Even at the slightly elevated prices they charge, they often sell out by early afternoon (the tuiles geantes and brioches aux pralines are their specialities) so go early and buy big!

For women's clothing and shoes in Lyon, I'd suggest going to Rue Edouard Herriot and walking the length of it. This street has everything from Zara and Mexx to Hermes and Christian Dior (and everything in-between), so you should be able to find something there that fits bill. I know my wife normally does.

Her mid-range favourite is Comptoir des Cotonniers which is on the street parallel to Edouard Herriot (rue de Brest) and has a few more interesting / streetwear places along it also.

Enjoy your trip!

Just thought I'd clear up a bit of misinformation about the traboules written above - I apologise in advance for being so dull, but a large portion of my degree dissertation was on the traboules and I'm damned if I'm not going to use the information when I get a chance!

"Most of them were in that little area across the river where there's a warren of tiny zig-zagging streets."

Not true I'm afraid (describing St. Jean/ Vieux Lyon as 'that little area across the river' is a crime in and of itself, but that's a discussion for another time), there are very few traboules in this area, but they are the most visited, as it's the most touristy part of Lyon. There are many more in the Croix Rousse area and on the Presqu'ile.

Here's a map which gives you the location of some of the most interesting and easy to navigate ones (including the most well-known which crosses the Cour des Voraces);

http://www.lyontraboules.net/parcours.php

The suggestion that you "wander all the traboules" is also not a good one. If memory serves, there are getting on for 400 documented traboules in Lyon, so walking them all would be something very few people have or done (or should do, if I'm honest).

Apologies for being 'that guy'...

Re. the traboules, as noted previously the TI in Place Bellecour has maps but consider one of the guided walking tours that leave from the TI. Our tour on a Saturday in November was conducted in English and, along with visiting several traboules in Vieux Lyon there was lots of commentary on other historic features of the area.

I am delighted with the specific recommendations you made, JayG, thank you so much. Your explanation was most helpful.
Roger, thank you for the suggestion of the TI tour. We will be there on a Sat and that will do quite nicely!

JayG, it is a good thing you posted that menu for me. I will need at least a week of pouring over it to make my decision!

Merci beaucoup.

JayG, You're amazing!!! That is the place for sure. I rememeber it being near the river but thought if I posted that it was 'somewhere near the river' people may think me a bit daffy. But hey, it the ONE, yay. Well done. As soon as I read the name I went 'Yes, that's it!!" Funny how things can come so quickly even after 12 years!!

Can't wait for my second visit and the good news is I am there for three days and can visit the parlour every day!!
Schnauzer