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dlejhunt Apr 9th, 2009 01:19 PM

April in Paris - Highlights from my trip
 
I just returned from a wonderful week in Paris with my sister. This was my fifth visit, but her first. The weather was perfect, the city was luminous – well, it was Paris and it was glorious. We did all of the usual touristy things that first-timers do – Louvre, D’Orsay, Tour Eiffel, Arc de Triomphe, etc. – and they were all wonderful as usual. I won’t recount our adventures as I am certain that they are very similar to the adventures of many other Fodorites. Rather, I would like to share some of the new things that I discovered on my trip, in the hope that they might be of use to future travelers to the most beautiful city in the world (I’ll readily admit to a large bias where Paris is concerned).

Discovery #1: Our apartment, 12 rue Amélie – This was the third one-bedroom apartment that I have rented in the rue Cler area, and it was fabulous – far and away the best of the three. The location was wonderful; the apartment is located on quiet rue Amélie, halfway between rue de Grenelle and rue St. Dominique. The apartment is close to everything - one only has to leave the apartment, walk down to rue de Grenelle, turn left and take a 3-minute walk to the La Tour Maubourg metro; a right turn at rue de Grenelle and a 3-minute walk in that direction will take one to the market street of rue Cler. Though the apartment is in the midst of a bustling neighborhood, once inside, one feels as if they might be in the middle of the countryside, as the apartment’s back wall of windows looks out into a quiet, verdant courtyard (complete with bicycle propped against a vine covered wall). The inside of the apartment is a roomy 500+ square feet, perfect for two or even three people. The apartment is completely remodeled; the bathroom is the BEST that I have encountered in a Parisian apartment (a shower high enough so that I didn’t have to stoop! a vanity area large enough so that two people could actually use the bathroom at the same time!). The price is reasonable and the gentleman who handled the rental was most accommodating (see below). The link to the apartment is here: http://www.vrbo.com/202910

Discovery #2: Louis Blanchard – Louis handled all of the arrangements for our apartment rental. He was helpful in the extreme - he went “above and beyond” what one might expect from a rental agent. Louis helped arrange a package delivery to the apartment for me, he assisted me with the recovery of my delayed baggage, he came by the apartment to fix a stuck door and finally, he spent several hours at the apartment to ensure that a «plombier» came to fix a leaky sink. All of this was accomplished with kindness and good humor on his part. After our arrival I discovered that Louis acts as an agent for several other apartments in Paris, and that he also provides other tourist services, such as private tours of Paris. In fact, during the week that I was in Paris, Louis spent one day acting as liaison and private tour guide for a crew of, and a family featured on an episode of the ABC television show “Extreme Makeover Home Edition”. I enthusiastically recommend Louis to anyone who is looking for an apartment in Paris, or anyone who might want to arrange for a private tour of Paris. Louis’ web site is here: http://www.louis-apartments.com/spip.php?lang=en

Discovery #3: Shuttle Inter – I found Shuttle Inter through the postings of another Fodorite, gracejoan3. I am ever grateful to you, gracejoan, as Shuttle Inter was everything that you promised, and more. The driver was right outside of customs waiting for us after our arrival, even after a 3 ½ hour delay, and then, on our return trip, was ten minutes early for our pickup! The price, too, is great - 55€ for a private shuttle from CDG to Paris (or Paris to CDG) is much less than I have paid other private shuttle operators. The only drawback to Shuttle Inter is that while reservations can be made online, the driver must be paid in cash. It’s a minor drawback, really, and the reliable and friendly service is well worth that small inconvenience. Shuttle Inter reservations can be made here: http://shuttle-inter.com/

Discovery #4: Le Florimond Restaurant – Le Florimond is not technically a discovery, as I have eaten there during my four previous trips to Paris, and it is well known to Fodorites who like to stay in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. However, the restaurant continues to be so spectacular that I had to mention it again. Every time I eat at Le Florimond I think “wow, it was even better than last time…” and I swear that it is. About halfway through our meal there last Friday evening, my sister and I looked across the table at each other with smiles of perfect contentment. The taste and smell of the exquisite food, the warm ambiance of the room, the perfect level of attention that diners receive from the owner Laurent, and, I believe, his wife; all combine to provide an unforgettable dining experience. We left the restaurant on a euphoric high, brought on by one of the best meals that we had eaten in our lives. Le Florimond may be found at: 19, av de La Motte-Picquet, 75007 Paris, Phone: 0145554038, M. École Militaire or La Tour Maubourg.

Discovery #5: French Beauty Products – Ok, this one is a little weird. But, thanks to American Airline’s loss of my luggage, (it did eventually turn up, after much consternation), I had to make a quick trip to the Ed supermarché for staples such as deodorant, shampoo, shower gel, etc. My shopping trip for these items was a pleasant surprise, as I found that they were of better quality than the items that I buy in America, much nicer smelling, and much less expensive! I found some wonderful body crème for 3€, some really nice smelling (and very effective) deodorant for only 2€, and a wonderfully scented shower gel for around the same price. Even the sales at Bath and Body Works can’t match those prices! I loaded up before I left – thankfully I had an extra suitcase to fill. I’d suggest that all of you bath product junkies check out the supermarchés for some great products and some great bargains next time you’re in Paris.

And finally, Discovery #6: La Taverna Restaurant - Once again, not technically a discovery as we have eaten there before. But, I wanted to list it because I don’t see it mentioned here on Fodor’s very often, and I do believe that it is very, very good. La Taverna is always on our list of places to eat when we are in Paris. The restaurant is run by a young Italian couple; the talented husband is in the kitchen and his beautiful and charming wife runs the front of the house (my husband is always happy to see her). The restaurant has a very pretty and comfortable room, it is not too expensive (dinner for two with 2 glasses of wine ran us 83€), and the service is friendly. If you do go, try the risotto: I ate a strawberry risotto here that remains one of the most exquisite things that I have eaten in my life. La Taverna is here: 22, rue Champ de Mars, 75007 Paris Phone : 0145516459 M. École Militaire or La Tour Maubourg.

Hope this was not too boring…enjoy, future Paris visitors! As soon as I landed in San Francisco last Saturday I was ready to turn right around and go back – Paris is addictive. I’m hoping to get another fix soon.

elburr Apr 9th, 2009 01:43 PM

Thank you for sharing your discoveries. I'll be in Paris with some friends at the end of June, maybe we'll try out some of your suggestions.

gracejoan3 Apr 9th, 2009 01:59 PM

Sounds like you had another great trip!

As you said, Le Florimond is just a great place. Laurent couldn't be nicer! It does make you leave with a big smile!

Glad you liked "my" shuttle service. They do try to make every effort for delays such as yours. You probably didn't expect to see them there! Re the cash paying. I always remember to come home with some euros for my next trip.

I must have walked past the Taverna many, many times. Will have to take a look.

I am leaving on Tuesday. Shuttle-inter.com will be meeting me. I just sent them an email earlier today, to re-confirm.

I have been watching the weather..looks good..some showers..that's fine with me.

a bientot..

Joan

yk Apr 9th, 2009 02:58 PM

Sounds like you had a great time! Thanks for sharing.

Mariarosa Apr 9th, 2009 03:43 PM

We're staying in the 7th in a couple of weeks and I had Le Florimond on our list. Two questions: do we need to reserve in advance, if we're early dinners (in by 8 pm), and what can I expect in terms of pricing (do they have a prix fixe, what's the range of prices for main plats...).

dlejhunt Apr 9th, 2009 03:45 PM

Joan, thanks again for the Shuttle Inter tip. No, I did not expect to see the driver at the airport waiting for us, not after the airline delay, and the additional delay while I made my lost baggage report with American Airlines. It was quite a pleasant surprise!

I'm wishing good weather for you - it was spectacular for us. I was so glad that my sister got to see Paris at her best, but even in the rain, it is pretty darn wonderful.

I'm hoping that someday I'll be able to spend a month in Paris, as you do. Je suis jalouse!

Bon voyage a vous.

Debra

dlejhunt Apr 9th, 2009 08:29 PM

Mariarosa - you should definitely reserve at Le Florimond, at least a couple of days in advance. As far as cost; for my sister and I, the prix fixe dinner (three courses), and a bottle of wine (a yummy sancerre that was 37 euros), was around 110 euros. My husband and I have had dinners at Le Florimond in the past where we have ordered off the a la carte menu, and they were in the neighborhood of 150 euros.

Enjoy your dinner...Le Florimond is fabulous!

gracejoan3 Apr 10th, 2009 12:45 AM

Mariarosa,

Yes, definitely reservations for Le Florimond. It is very popular with a local clientele. You will enjoy dining there. Enjoy your stay.

Debra,
Seeing the driver had to be one bright moment with what you had just experienced!

I shuttle from Asheville to Atlanta and I always check at gate in Atlanta to see if my luggage is on the plane to Paris. It is relaxing to know that it is traveling on the same flight! So far, I have always been told that it is on it. I'm not sure what I would do if told that it was not on it! Some people seated nearby in ATL recently did not know that you could do that. They checked on their luggage, too..

Joan

tod Apr 10th, 2009 01:34 AM

Debra your concise trip report was extremely helpful. Thank you so much for posting!

Canada_V Apr 10th, 2009 05:23 AM

I love all styles of trip reports including the "discoveries" style you used.
I don't think your "french beauty products" discovery was weird - in fact in some ways it was the most intriguing of your list, as it was obviously something that struck you enought to make your list. And I am going to use that discovery - I was wondering what sort of "that kind of thing" to bring, and I think I've decided to bring none of it :-) and bundle it into our first day "pick up some basic grocery supplies" task.
thanks for posting!
V

jetsetj Apr 10th, 2009 05:32 AM

Things for the beauty products tips.
I plan to spend some time in Monprix looking for all sort of goodies.

dina4 Apr 10th, 2009 06:12 AM

Debra --
Thanks so much for the great trip report!
I also loved your "discovery" style!

I just added Le Florimund to our list.
Would you recommed it also for lunch?

Also, do you remember the names of the beauty products you especially liked?

Merci,
Dina

dina4 Apr 10th, 2009 06:17 AM

Joan --

how exactly do you check at the gate if your luggage is on the plane?

i also just contacted your shuttle service for a quote on an orly-paris transfer.

thanks,
dina

gracejoan3 Apr 10th, 2009 07:10 AM

Dina,

Re luggage: Just go to gate counter with your luggage receipt and ask them if they would be so kind as to check if your luggage is on the plane!. They put them in containers and have record of the scan. I guess that is the way it works. Give them time, if you are making a connection. I always relax after that, with the knowledge that my luggage is with me!

I think the rates from Orly are about the same for transportation service. Is it not on the site? Are you aware that the service asked me to have my "friends" manetion Joan Grace, as they would like to give them a discount. I think what they are doing is giving you 5 euros off the return trip of your R/T reservation. You can buy some goodiees at the patisserie! They now only charge me 40 euros each way because I have used them so much. If a returning customer, tell them that you are a happy, returning customer...you will recieve discounts. That's the way it worked for me.
I just emailed for confirmation of my pickup next Wed. and also mentioned a "friend" going to contact them about transportation for 12 people. I gave them her name. When they re-confirmed to me, they also said that they would like to give the group some discounts. I passed on the email.

They like the business from all of us (believe me, there have been many, many) and we also appreciate what has been great service..a bit of "quid pro quo"!! Hope it continues. Bound to be some little mix ups along the way..that's life!

Joan

queen1730 Apr 10th, 2009 07:20 AM

Debra - Loved the discovery format!

Joan - Do you know how Shuttle-Inter is with later flight arrivals (we don't land until 9:10pm).

LowCountryIslander Apr 10th, 2009 07:23 AM

Really enjoyed your trip report. I'malways looking for good tips on Paris. Thanks for sharing!

dlejhunt Apr 10th, 2009 07:28 AM

Dina - I loaded up on Dia deoodorant, the Baidoa body creme, and the Monsavon "Perle et Patchouli" shower gel - all from the ED supermarche. During my trip to Paris last summer I bought 12 tubes of the Leader Price "Mains et Ongles" hand creme - at 1,27 euros each, quite a bargain, but better yet, I love the way that it moisturizes without being sticky (and no strong scent, either). Both Leader Price and ED are in the rue Cler area, Leader Price on the corner of rue Cler and rue du Champs de Mars, ED is close to the corner of rue Cler and rue St. Dominique (right by the Starbucks).

Joan, I wish I knew about the possibility of checking whether my luggage was on the plane with me or not, but perhaps it would not made a difference to me, and in any case, at least I was able to enjoy the flight over to Paris without worrying about my lost bag! Several others on my first flight (we went from SFO to JFK) also didn't get their bags at CDG. I was quite surprised because even though we had only a 1 1/2 hour layover, there was also a 1 1/2 hour delay - one would think that the airline could have gotten our bags across the tarmac in three hours. However, there was also a gate change, perhaps that was the reason our suitcases didn't make the flight. Of course it is more painful to have your suitcase miss an international flight as they are often far apart - we left JFK at 11:30 on Saturday night, and the next flight to Paris wasn't until 5:45 pm the next day. Oh well, all's well that ends well, right?

gracejoan3 Apr 10th, 2009 07:47 AM

Queen:
I think they are as good at night as they are in the morning. They certainly do seem to try to please.

Debra,
I think airports can really make a difference. I was in the Malaga area for a month a few years back and my return flight was Malgaga to Madrid for my Delta flight to ATL. The flight was very late from Malaga and I missed my Delta flight. Many others, too. So, they sent me to JFK. Luggage arrived, went thru entry and then put luggage back thru for ATL and on to Asheville (home). No luggage. Next day found out that they sent the luggage to LA instead of ATL!! Since 9/11, I thought luggage could not go without a passenger! That quite obviously is not true!

I can also shuttle to CVG (Cinn)and I do prefer that airport. Delta has now cancelled so many flights that it is far from convenient to go that way.

Do ask from now on at the gate about your luggage. It does make you feel better. I think we all worry about our luggage not arriving with us. The fewer connections, obviously the better.

Joan

TPAYT Apr 10th, 2009 08:33 AM

Definitely NOT boring! There are so many of us that love all the Paris reviews, especially to mark different restaurants for our next trip.

jetsetj Apr 10th, 2009 08:46 AM

I love when folks post pics and info of what they ordered off the menu, and where.

gracejoan3 Apr 10th, 2009 09:10 AM

This site is wonderful for the Paris scenery, music combination..whether you look at the apartments, or not, it is great. Just click on the different ones. If you like Paris, you WILL enjoy!!
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=...ct&view=videos

Joan

Mariarosa Apr 10th, 2009 09:35 AM

Thanks re: Florimond. I'll be sure to reserve.

janruiz Apr 10th, 2009 09:39 AM

Can't thank you enough for the info about Paris. We are going for the first time in June. Wrote down all your suggestions and really appreciated your info about the shuttle service. I have contacted 3 shuttle services only to get one reply after two weeks. Will book with your suggestions, thank you! Any suggestions for eating in the 8th arndsmt?

gracejoan3 Apr 10th, 2009 09:56 AM

janruiz,
What part of the 8th are you staying in? What kind of restaurants are you looking for?

There is Angle du Faubourg, Bristol, Alain Ducasse, Dominique Bouchet, Lasserre, Les Sauvers de Flora, Mariage Freres, l'Obelisque, Senderens...for a few...you may also want to walk across the Seine to the 7th and partake of the 4 Christian Constants along with so many others. No end to great restaurants.

Enjoy planning..

Joan

sherhatfield Apr 10th, 2009 10:22 AM

Thanks so much for your wonderful report! I'm headed to Paris in just over 4 weeks and we are staying in the 7th on Rue St. Dominique. I'm going to check out those restaurants you mentioned as well as the shops for the beauty products!

gracejoan3 Apr 10th, 2009 10:40 AM

sherhatfield,

The 7th is so full of great restaurants. The 4 Constants on St. Dominique, Clos des Gourmet, Au Bon Accueil, 153 Grenelle, P'tit Troquet, La Cuisine, Les Anges, Le Florimond, Pasco's, Cafe Max, just to name a few......

I will be having lunch at Les Cocottes on Wednesday. Some friends are in Paris now and will be there for a couple days after I arrive. I will probably see them there on Wed. Catherine Constant said she will look for me on Wed., too!

Enjoy...

Joan

dlejhunt Apr 10th, 2009 03:16 PM

janruiz - I will second Joan's recommendation for L'Angle du Faubourg, it is the "second label", so to speak, of the famous Taillevent, and much less expensive...but very, very nice indeed.

sherhatfield Apr 11th, 2009 07:49 AM

Joan - thanks for the list of restaurants! I can't wait to try some out. :)

RobertaL Apr 11th, 2009 08:16 AM

Ahhh, Le Florimond, what delicious memories! Thanks to Joan for that one as well as the recommendation for Shuttle Inter.

Great trip report, dlejhunt. It put a big smile on my face!

gracejoan3 Apr 11th, 2009 08:21 AM

sherhatfield,

That was only a few..the best buy for a "starred" lunch experience, is still Table de Joel Robuchon, in the 16th. Only 55 euros. Reservations a must, of course. Use a 1010 dialing number..only costs about 65 cents. Or if staying in a hotel, ask the concierge to do it for you. We will be going on the 17th.

I haven't been to l'Angle du Faubourg in a couple years. Taillevent is always a favorite of mine, as is l'Obelisque in the Hotel Crillon..a Sunday or Monday, for what they call their "nice" people days..long time customers!!

I will be starting a thread for a running report, as I have previously done. I have made reservations for people and done all sorts of things.

a bientot..

Joan

SpartanTartan Apr 11th, 2009 09:05 PM

Thanks so much for this wonderful report. My husband and I will be going to Paris in a week and a half and have our reservations for Shuttle-Inter. It's great to hear more good things about them. I also really appreciate the info about beauty products. It's convinced me to "forget" some of mine at home!

hmmm Apr 12th, 2009 01:07 AM

We used Shuttle-Inter for several runs (Disney, Versailles, Paris airport) on our trip this last week. As Gracejoan reports, they are on time and knowledgeable. They also respond promptly to e-mails, even on the fly. We paid cash, a bow to tax avoidance perhaps, but the service now accepts the Visa card exclusively.

ParisJo Apr 12th, 2009 05:16 AM

Hi Joan,

I'm so jealous of your upcoming month in Paris and hoped we could have met you but we will miss each other by 2 days!

Have you heard anything new about Spring? I keep checking Daniel's blog hoping that he will be reopened in time for our visit (the last 2 weeks of May) but that hope is slowly fading. Please give us the scoop if you speak to him during your visit.

Have a wonderful trip and can't wait to read your reports!

Jo

gracejoan3 Apr 12th, 2009 05:53 AM

ParisJo,

Don't look for Spring to be open in May. Last word was probably June.

I did send Daniel and email that I would be dropping by for a peek..asked if I might be put to work!! I have several reservation requests that I am taking with me. Will see what happens.
I will report in after.

I will set up new thread tomorrow for my trip. Would be happy to check into some things for people.

Joan

overbuget Apr 12th, 2009 04:45 PM

Do you tip the shuttle service? Also, what is expected dress for women in the evening at most restaurants?

gracejoan3 Apr 13th, 2009 12:52 AM

I tip the shuttle service. They take the bags inside to the elevator for me.

Dress depends on where you are dining. Most places I would say, nice casual.

monicapileggi Apr 13th, 2009 04:03 AM

Great report! I will definitely have to hit the store for some of those great, inexpensive products.

My friend Louisa loved dining at Le Florimond, so we plan to dine there next month.


Monica ((F))

dlejhunt Apr 13th, 2009 06:45 AM

overbuget - I did tip the shuttle driver 10 euros on the way into Paris (as he waited through several announced flight delays that totaled three hours), and then I tipped him 5 euros on the way to the airport. Still a good deal. As I said earlier, I paid around 90 euros for previous private shuttles that I have used, and that is before tip.


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